Idlewild Dress – Women’s Part 1

In Part 1 of the Idlewild Dress pattern, we’ll make a gauge swatch and learn how to crochet the bodice front. Scroll down for the free women’s pattern + video tutorial.

Remember you can find all the Idlewild Crochet Along resources, links to pattern stages and more photos here. Each time a new pattern stage is released, you’ll find it there!

Get the Entire Pattern Immediately in the Printable PDF

Following the free pattern as it’s released each week is a fantastic way to participate in the Idlewild Crochet Along if you’re on a tight budget.

If you have a few dollars to spare though, I recommend upgrading to the ad-free, printable PDF. You’ll get the complete pattern immediately without waiting for free pattern releases and you’ll have access to visual stitch charts, measurements and photo tutorials not included with the free pattern.

Click here to purchase the pattern PDF ⇨

Idlewild Dress Video Tutorial
Part 1

Links mentioned in the video:
• Find all relevant Idlewild Dress resources on the main page
• View Part 1 of the women’s pattern + video tutorial
• Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with stitch charts
• Join the Make & Do Crew Facebook group
• Purchase a kit with all the Lion Brand Beautiful You yarn + printed copy of pattern

Idlewild Dress: Part 1
Women’s Sizes – Free Pattern

Explanation:
Add a knockout to your handmade wardrobe with the versatile Idlewild Dress. Flatteringly flowy in all the right places, you’ll find a million ways to wear your lace-accented dress. With over 12 pattern combinations, you’ll choose your own crochet adventure with the option to customize the bodice length, the skirt length and the sleeve style. Make a dress, tunic or peplum top that you can layer and dress up or down year round. 

Make a matching dress for the little lady in your life with the child’s Idlewild Dress pattern!

Supplies:
This pattern contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
• Lion Brand Beautiful You (Weight: 2/fine – 326 yds, 3.5 oz)
Rooibos Tea (#165-138) – 5 (6, 6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10)* skeins [(approx. 454 (512, 584, 657, 728, 793, 874, 951) g] 
*If you prefer a longer dress, purchase an extra skein. 

Colors also pictured in child size: 
Aquatic (#165-105)
Arrowood (#165-194)

• Tapestry needle
• Size G (4.25mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins
• An iron with steam setting or handheld steamer for blocking
• T-pins or rustproof straight sewing pins for blocking

Purchase a kit with all the yarn you’ll need to crochet your dress, plus a printed copy of the pattern PDF. ⇨

Sizes + Measurements:
Sizes: S (M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
Fits: 33.5 (36.5, 41, 45, 49.5, 52.5, 57, 61)” bust
*Additional measurements included in printable PDF if desired.

Since length is easily customized, choose size by closest bust measurement. Bust is designed to fit with minimal positive ease. Size up for a looser look. Sample is size M pictured on a 5’9” model with 38” bust.

Gauge:
Bodice: 19 sts x 14 rows = 4” *

Skirt: 3 visual shells x 8 rows = 4” *

* Note that this is measured after blocking. Please make a gauge swatch, particularly for the bodice, steam block it and adjust your hook size if necessary before beginning the pattern. You’ll be glad you did!

To make a gauge swatch for Bodice:
1. Work preferred foundation row (see pattern below) so it contains 27 dc.

2. Rep Rows 2 and 3 of bodice 9 times each, for 19 rows total.

3. Gently steam block swatch without touching iron/steamer to yarn. 

4. Measure number of stitches and rows in a 4” square. Adjust hook size if necessary to meet pattern gauge.

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
ch – chain
chLoop – a loop created from chain stitches
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet two together 
dec – decrease
fdc – foundation double crochet
PM – place marker
rem – remain(ing)
rep – repeat
RS – right side
rsc – reverse single crochet (aka the crab stitch)
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
tch – turning chain
V-Loop – a loop created by (sc, ch 4, sc) in the same st
WS – wrong side

Overall Pattern Notes:
• Ch 3 at beginning of row or round counts as a dc throughout.

• Pattern is written in smallest sizes with larger sizes following in parenthesis.

• Watch video tutorial above this pattern for extra instruction.

• If you have a pattern question or just need some extra encouragement, please join the Make & Do Crew Facebook group where there are several thousand other kind crocheters supporting each other.

BODICE FRONT

Notes:
• To create a longer bodice section that hits closer to the waist, work additional repeats of Rows 2 and 3 before indenting for armholes. (Remember the number of rows worked as it will be repeated for Bodice Back.) Note that this adjustment may require more yarn.

• When beginning Foundation Row/Chain, leave a 25” tail of unworked yarn for seaming sides.

• See stitch chart and photos C, D, E and F in printable pattern PDF for additional visual guidance.

Make 1. 

Preferred Foundation Row 1 (RS): Fdc 79 (87, 97, 107, 117, 125, 135, 145). [79 (87, 97, 107, 117, 125, 135, 145) fdc]

Alternative Foundation Row: Ch 81 (89, 99, 109, 119, 127, 137, 147).
Alternative Foundation Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch to end of row; turn. [79 (87, 97, 107, 117, 125, 135, 145) dc]

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, (sc, dc) in first dc, sk next dc, *(sc, dc) in next dc, sk next dc; rep from * across to last st, sc in tch; turn. [79 (87, 97, 107, 117, 125, 135, 145) sts]

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, sk first st, dc in each st; turn. 

Rep Rows 2 and 3 nine more times. 

Rep Row 2 once more. 

There should be 22 Rows including Foundation Row 1 and piece should measure approx. 6.5” high.

If a longer Bodice is desired, work additional repeats of Rows 2 and 3 ending with a Row 2 before moving on to Indenting for Armholes.

Indent for Armholes:

Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sl st in first 9 (9, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 11) sts, ch 3, PM in third ch, dc in next st, dc in each dc until 8 (8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10) sts remain, PM; turn. [63 (71, 81, 91, 97, 105, 115, 125) sts]

Remaining rows are worked between marked stitches only, move markers up each row if desired.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, (sc, dc) in first dc, *sk next dc, (sc, dc) in next dc; rep from * across, sc in tch; turn. [63 (71, 81, 91, 97, 105, 115, 125) sts]

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, sk first st, dc in each st; turn. 

Rep Rows 2 and 3 two (three, four, two, three, four, four, five) more times.

Rep Row 2 once more.

Piece should have 30 (32, 34, 30, 32, 34, 34, 36) rows total. Do not fasten off. Now we’ll divide for the neck. With yarn attached:

First Side of Neck:

Decreasing: 

Note: In Row 2, marker is placed in dec st because it can be hard to see on the next row. See tutorial at end of pattern or photos A and B for decrease stitch placement.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, sk first sc, dc in next 20 (22, 22, 32, 32, 34, 36, 38) dc, dc2tog; turn, leaving rem sts unworked. [22 (24, 24, 34, 34, 36, 38, 40) dc]

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc2tog, PM in dec, dc in same st as second leg of sc2tog, *sk next dc, (sc, dc) in next dc; rep from * across to last 2 sts, sk next dc, sc in tch; turn. [21 (23, 23, 33, 33, 35, 37, 39) sts]

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, sk first sc, dc in each st until 2 remain, dc2tog; turn. [20 (22, 22, 32, 32, 34, 36, 38) dc]

Rep Rows 2 and 3 three (four, four, eight, eight, nine, ten, eleven) more times, then Row 2 once more for a total of 10 (12, 12, 20, 20, 22, 24, 26) rows. When repeating Row 2, dc2tog is worked in marked st and st before marked st.

Working Even:

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, sk first st, dc in each st across; turn. [13 (13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15) dc]

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, (sc, dc) in first dc, *sk next dc, (sc, dc) in next dc; rep from * across, sc in tch; turn. [13 (13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15) sts]

Rep Rows 1 and 2 four (three, three, two, two, one, one, zero) more times for a total of 10 (8, 8, 6, 6, 4, 4, 2) rows. Counting from bottom of Front, you should have 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64) total rows on this side.

Fasten off leaving a 25” tail for seaming.

Second Side of Neck:

Counting in from opposite edge, attach yarn in 23rd (25th, 25th, 35th, 35th, 37th, 39th, 41st) st. There will be 17 (21, 31, 21, 27, 31, 37, 43) sts unworked at center of neckline. 

Decreasing: 

Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, dc in next st, (counts as dc2tog), dc in each st across; turn. [22 (24, 24, 34, 34, 36, 38, 40) dc]

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, (sc, dc) in first dc, *sk next dc, (sc, dc) in next dc; rep from * across until 2 dc remain, sc2tog, leave tch unworked; turn. [21 (23, 23, 33, 33, 35, 37, 39) sts]

Rep Rows 1 and 2 four (five, five, nine, nine, ten, eleven, twelve) more times, ending with a Row 2, for a total of 10 (12, 12, 20, 20, 22, 24, 26) rows. 

Working Even:

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, sk first st, dc in each st; turn. [13 (13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15) dc]

Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, (sc, dc) in first dc, *sk next dc, (sc, dc) in next dc; rep from * across, sc in tch; turn. [13 (13, 13, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15) sts]

Rep Rows 1 and 2 four (three, three, two, two, one, one, zero) more times for a total of 10 (8, 8, 6, 6, 4, 4, 2) rows. Counting from bottom of Front, you should have 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64) total rows on this side. Piece should measure approximately 14.25 (14.75, 15.5, 16, 16.5, 17.25, 17.75, 18.25) inches.

Fasten off leaving a 25” tail for seaming.

If You Can’t Wait to Keep Crocheting

Grab the the pattern PDF and you’ll have instant access to the full pattern so you can keep up your crochet momentum. Otherwise, we’ll see you back next week for Part 2 of the Idlewild Crochet Along!

(Remember, you can always find each new CAL stage linked on the main Idlewild Dress page here.)

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