Believe it or not, two simple granny hexagons are the foundation of this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern. Part 1 of the free pattern is below, Part 2 is available here and Part 3 is here. You can also purchase the complete ad-free, printable PDF for $2.50 here.
Like building a campfire in the middle of a June thunderstorm, designing this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern did not come easily. I tore parts of it out so many times I thought the yarn might evaporate in my hands. (I’m pretty sure my husband doesn’t want to have any more conversations about the width of sweater stripes for a while.)
But alas, I’m so happy with the result! And most importantly, I think YOU will be able to make this modern cardigan really easily! The construction of this crochet hexagon sweater is what makes it so fun. Can you spot the two granny hexagons?
I know, right!? It’s like a magic trick! You crochet them and then–poof!–they just disappear into the coziest little lightweight sweater you’ve ever worn. Since we’re in on the business of making cool crochet things together though, let me pull back the curtain for you.
The two simple granny hexagons are what form the chest and shoulders of the sweater. Once they’re seamed in the back and shoulders, you’ll add rows of granny stitch lengthen the sweater in Part 2. You’ll also add longer sleeves, again with basic granny stitch (and some decreases if you’d like). Lastly in Part 3, you’ll pop a basic rectangular hood on the top to make your crochet hexagon sweater extra comfy and work a simple border around all the sweater edges.
Sounds pretty doable, doesn’t it? It is! I really love crochet patterns that look complex, but are actually made from creating simple shapes with basic techniques. (Check out my free Urban Gypsy Boho Bag pattern if you do too! And this chunky crochet hexagon sweater pattern is what originally inspired the idea for my version.) Below are a few other free crochet sweater patterns I’ve designed that require no shaping at all! Pin them for when you finish your Campfire Cardigan. 😉
If you’ve never crocheted a sweater before, the “Campfire Cardigan” would be a great pattern to start with. It’s also VERY customizable if you enjoy tweaking patterns to suite your body. I’ve included notes in each section on how you can take simple steps to adjust the pattern to your liking.
The yarn I used for this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern is new from Lion Brand and it’s called New Basic 175. It’s lightweight and soft and I love how it resembles roving yarn. Plus, how great are these colors? I’m usually terrified of choosing colors, but the options in this line of yarn coordinate quite effortlessly (even for me!) You can check out all the colors here.
If you’d like to peruse the entire pattern before you get started, you can check out Part 2 (here!) and Part 3 (here!) (Or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF of the complete pattern if you can’t wait that long! 😉 )
And as an overview, here’s a quick peek at the process of making the Campfire Cardigan from start to finish. I hope you enjoy this pattern!
Thanks to Lion Brand Yarn for sponsoring this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern and enabling more free patterns on Make and Do Crew! Purchase a kit that includes all the yarn necessary to make your own Campfire Cardigan, plus a printed copy of the pattern here.
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back to this post. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales photos. You can read my policies here. Now let’s make something awesome!
“The Campfire Cardigan”
Free Crochet Hexagon Sweater Pattern
Purchase the complete ad-free, printable PDF for $2.50 here.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry favorites here.
Pin this pattern for later here.
Sizes: (Measurements when laying flat)
S/M: Length: 28.5”, Chest Width: 17.5”, Arm Length: 21”, but easily customized
M/L: Length: 30”, Chest Width: 20.5”, Arm Length: 22”, but easily customized (see “overall pattern notes” below for more details on this size)
L/XL: Length: 30”, Chest Width: 23.5”, Arm Length: 22”, but easily customized (see “overall pattern notes” below for more details on this size)
Sample pictured is a size S/M.
Purchase a kit with all the yarn necessary plus a printed copy of the pattern here!
• Lion Brand New Basic 175 (Weight: 4/medium – 175 yds, 3.5 oz)
– Color A: Café Au Lait – 3 (4, 4) balls
– Color B: Juniper – 1 (2, 2) balls
– Color C: Thyme – 2 (3, 3) balls
– Color D: Camel – 2 (3, 3) balls
• Tapestry needle
• Size L (8 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins
• 3 granny clusters + 3 spaces = 4”, slightly less than 6 rows = 4” worked in double crochet granny pattern
Abbreviations and Glossary (US terms):
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
tch – turning chain
yo – yarn over
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
cluster – 3 dc stitches in same sp
rep – repeat
sp – space
ch1sp – the space created by chaining 1 in the previous row/round
ch3sp – the space created by chaining 3 in the previous row/round
Two simple granny hexagons are the foundation of this modern crochet cardigan. You’ll work two identical hexagons first and seam them to make the chest and shoulders of the sweater. Next you’ll add length with rows of granny stitch, two sleeves and a rectangular hood. Lastly, you’ll finish off the sweater with a border.
Overall Pattern Notes:
• Pattern includes sizes S/M, M/L and L/XL, but you can easily adjust the size of this cardigan to suite your body. To make a smaller sweater, crochet smaller hexagons. To make a larger sweater, crochet larger hexagons. Notes are given throughout on further customizations. Stitch counts at the end of each round are for sizes (S/M, M/L, L/XL).
• When crocheting larger hexagons for the larger sizes, the arm holes will also become larger. Some readers making the M/L or L/XL size have expressed that they’d prefer narrower sleeves. A Make & Do Crew reader, Laura, had a great suggestion to create extra space in the chest/back area without increasing the sleeve circumference:
Work a hexagon as outlined for the S/M size. Then on one side of the hexagon, work additional rows in the granny stitch back and forth to make that single side deeper than the rest. Repeat for the second hexagon. These two deeper sides will be what you seam for the back seam of the cardigan. (For an idea of how to add the extra rows, simply follow the “cardigan bottom” details for adding rows in Part 2 of the pattern.)
After seaming the back and shoulders as the pattern describes, add length to the bottom as the pattern outlines in Part 2. At this point, add additional rows vertically to the front of both sides of the cardigan in order to give it more coverage over your hips, stomach and chest. From here, you can proceed with the pattern as written and work the sleeves as described for the S/M size. I hope this idea is helpful for those wishing to customize their cardigan even further!
• When working in the round, sl st into the third ch from the beginning of the round to join.
• Ch 3 at beginning of round/row counts as 1 dc throughout pattern.
•The colors per round/row are simply a suggestion. Don’t be afraid to customize your cardigan as you wish! (Just keep in mind this may affect the yardage needed of each color.)
• Hexagons are worked in the round with RS facing at all times. Do not turn work at end of round.
• Corner spaces will always be comprised of 3 ch. Spaces along the sides of the hexagon will be made with 1 ch.
• When switching colors for a new round, there is no need to work the final 3 sl st of the round before your fasten off. Simply sl st to join the round and fasten off. When beginning a new round in the same color as the last round though, you’ll work the 3 sl st at the end of the round in order to get into the next ch3sp.
Foundation Round: Using color A, Ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in ring, ch 1, (3 dc in ring, ch 1) 5 times, sl st to join. (1 cluster/side)
Round 2: 3 sl st into next ch1sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in first ch1sp, ch 1, [(3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc, ch 1) all in next ch1sp] 5 times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch3sp. (2 clusters/side)
Round 3: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in first ch3sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch1sp, ch 1, *(3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) all in next ch3sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch1sp, ch 1; repeat from * 4 more times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch3sp. (3 clusters/side)
Round 4: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in first ch3sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to corner, *(3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) all in next ch3sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to corner; repeat from * 4 more times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch3sp. (4 clusters/side)
Round 5: Rep Round 4. (5 clusters/side)
Round 6: Rep Round 4. (6 clusters/side)
Round 7: Rep Round 4. (7 clusters/side)
Size S/M: Fasten off.
Sizes M/L and L/XL: Continue with next two rounds.
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (8 clusters/side)
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (9 clusters/side)
Size M/L: Fasten off.
Size L/XL: Continue with next two rounds.
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (10 clusters/side)
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (11 clusters/side)
Size L/XL: Fasten off.
All Sizes: Attach Color B in any corner ch3sp.
Round 8: Using Color B, rep Round 4. (8, 10, 12 clusters per side)
Round 9: Using Color B, rep Round 4. (9, 11, 13 clusters per side)
Attach Color C in any corner ch3sp.
Round 10: Using Color C, rep Round 4. (10, 12, 14 clusters per side)
Round 11: Using Color C, rep Round 4. (11, 13, 15 clusters per side)
Round 12: Using Color C, rep Round 4. (12, 14, 16 clusters per side)
Attach Color D in any corner ch3sp.
Round 13: Using Color D, rep Round 4. (13, 15, 17 clusters per side)
Bring opposite corners of hexagon (the 3rd and 6th corner, for example) together to fold the hexagon into an “L” shape with the RS facing out. Repeat with second hexagon.
Orient folded hexagons with long sides touching as in photo above. Using safety pins or stitch markers, pin back seam of hexagons as well as the top sleeve seems. This is a great time to try your cardigan on to see if you like how it’s fitting around your back and shoulders. Customize the fit by adding or remove rounds as desired.
Using a tapestry needle and a doubled-over length of Color D, sew back seam using the mattress stitch. (Moogly has a great mattress stitch tutorial.)
Sew both seams on the top of the sleeves using the same technique.
Now you’re ready for Part 2 where you’ll add some length to the bottom and sleeves to the armholes.
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