Don’t let the dolman sleeves and modern silhouette fool you, this easy crochet shrug pattern is constructed with basic stitches and simple shapes. Great sweater for confident beginners! Find the entire free pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF for $2.50 here.
This free crochet shrug pattern is part of an ongoing paid collaboration with my friends at Lion Brand.
Oh boy am I excited to introduce you to a new friend. She’s easy to work with, she won’t have a lot of high maintenance requirements of you and she is just one of those classic beauties. I think you’ll love her as much as I do.
Her name is Jeans and she’s a new worsted weight yarn from Lion Brand. 😉 Guys, this yarn became an instant favorite it of mine by about row 2 of this easy crochet shrug. Isn’t it fun how it comes in all the colors of real jeans, complete with a rust accent color called “Topstitch?”
UPDATE: Lion Brand has created a kit that includes all the yarn you need to make this easy crochet shrug as well as a copy of the printable pattern. You can get the full kit here. (And their shipping is fast! 🙂 )
When this yarn arrived in the mail, I felt a little overwhelmed by all the possibilities. I asked on Instagram what you thought I should make and my favorite idea by far was the tongue-in-cheek suggestion of crocheted adult overalls.
Unfortunately, a full yarn pantsuit would have taken me until Christmas 2021 to make, so I’m offering this easy crochet shrug as an alternative. As it was, my mom still had to be my crochet wing-woman and help me finish the last part of this shrug collar so I could publish the pattern this week!
The open mesh combined with the super soft yarn makes this sweater really comfortable to throw on over a tank top when the sun sets. In the winter though, I think you could layer it over a long-sleeved shirt and feel cozy and snuggled up. In either case, the only stitches you’ll need are single crochet, double crochet and chains to make this easy shrug pattern. (Did I mention it’s made out of one big rectangle so it’s super customizable too? Sneaky, huh?!)
Then if you just fall in love with making trans-seasonal sweater-like objects, you can check out my free Campfire Cardigan and my Cocoon Cardigan patterns next!
And if you’ve read this far, I’m going to reward you with a photo that basically summarizes the family terror and drama that accompanies any Make & Do Crew photo shoot with my husband and kids. A massive gust of wind caught us by surprise and my husband just happened to photograph the exact moment I saw all our balloons go sailing off into the sky. Ha! I just have the laugh at the chaos that is my family/work life.
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back to this post. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales photos. You can read my policies here. Now let’s make something awesome!
“The Stonewash Shrug”
Free Easy Crochet Shrug Pattern
Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF for $2.50 here.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry favorites here.
Pin this free pattern for later here.
Explanation:
Don’t let the dolman sleeves and modern silhouette fool you—the construction of this on-trend sweater is super simple! You’ll work one large rectangle in a mesh pattern using only double crochet and chains. After seaming the rectangle in half, you’ll add sleeves, again using only basic stitches. Lastly, a long rectangle made from the accent color will be added to form the wide collar and edging.
Sizes:
This pattern is easily customizable. Notes are included in each section on how to adjust sizing. Sample pictured is a size S/M.
S/M: Length from shoulder to bottom of sweater when worn: 35”
Total width from wrist to wrist: 54.5”
L/XL: Length from shoulder to bottom of sweater when worn: 40”
Total width from wrist to wrist: 60.5”
See photo below for additional measurements.
Supplies:
Purchase the full kit for this pattern from here!
• Lion Brand Jeans Yarn (Weight: 4/medium – 246 yds, 3.5 oz)
– MC: Classic – 3 (4) balls
– AC: Stonewash – 2 (3) balls
• Tapestry needle
• Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins
Gauge:
8 rows of dc = 4”, 8 sets of (1 dc and 1 ch) = 4”
Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
sk – skip
dcblo – double crochet through the back loop only
sp – space
ch1sp – chain 1 space (the space created by chaining 1 in the previous row)
tch – turning chain
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
rep – repeat
MC – main color
AC – accent color
Overall Pattern Notes:
• Pattern includes sizes S/M and L/XL, but you can easily adjust the size of this sweater to suite your body. Notes are given throughout on how to customize. When stitch counts are mentioned, size S/M is given first with L/XL following in parenthesis.
• Please note that if customizations are made, the amount of yarn needed will differ from what is called for above.
• Ch 3 at beginning of row counts as 1 dc throughout pattern.
BODY RECTANGLE
Notes:
• See comments at the end of this section on how to modify the rectangle measurements if desired.
Make 1.
Foundation Row: Using MC, Ch 112 (128).
Row 1: Sk first 5 ch (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch), dc in sixth ch from the hook, *sk 1 ch, ch 1, dc in next ch; rep from * to end of row; turn. 54 (62) ch1sp
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch), sk first dc, sk first ch, *dc in next dc, sk next ch, ch 1; rep from * to last ch, dc in tch; turn.
Repeat Row 2 69 (79) times until there are a total of 71 (81) ch1sps vertically.
Fasten off.
To customize the length of the sweater: Measure from the top of your shoulders down your back to wherever you’d like the sweater to end. Subtract 7” (8”) for the border. The remaining length is how long you should make your chain for this rectangle. Begin with an even number of chains.
To customize the width of the sweater: When draped across your back horizontally, the rectangle should hit at or right past your elbows. Work Row 2 additional times if desired.
SEAMING RECTANGLE
Fold rectangle length-wise so that the longest sides are touching. (See photo at top of pattern.)
With a tapestry needle and a doubled-over length of MC yarn, sew side seam using the mattress stitch until 20 (26) ch1sps remain in armhole. (Moogly has a great mattress stitch tutorial.)
To customize: Try on sweater to see if this armhole sizing suits you. Increase or decrease number of ch1sps included in arm hole if desired.
Repeat for second armhole.
SLEEVES
Notes:
• Sleeve length can be easily customized by working more or fewer rounds of the same mesh stitch.
• The sleeves are worked in the round. Do not turn at the end of each round.
With RS of sweater facing, attach MC in newly created seam at underarm.
Round 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch), sk first ch, *dc in next dc, sk next ch, ch 1; rep from * to end of round, sl st to third ch from beginning of round to join. 20 (26) ch1sps
Rep Round 1 17, (18) more times until there are a total of 18, (19) ch1sps in the length of the sleeve. Fasten off.
Attach AC in any ch1sc around sleeve.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each ch1sp around sleeve, sl st to first sc to join.
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc to end of round, sl to to first sc to join. Fasten off.
To customize: If cuff (Rounds 2-3) feels too restrictive to you, do not sk dcs and instead sc in both the ch1sps and the dcs around sleeve.
Repeat for second sleeve.
COLLAR
Notes:
• The collar is worked in double crochet through the back loop only (dcblo), which is exactly like double crochet, but you’ll work the stitches through only the back loop of the dc from the previous row.
• To check gauge of collar, measure rows against the edge of sweater. Each collar row should be approximately the height of one ch1sp in the sweater.
To customize: The number of rows worked for the collar should be exactly double the number of rows worked for the body rectangle. If you made any adjustments to number of rows in your rectangle, take those into account with your collar. (So if you worked five extra rows in the rectangle, you collar will need 10 extra rows.)
Foundation Row: Using AC, Ch 30 (35).
Row 1: Sk first 3 ch (counts as 1 dc), dc in each ch to end of row; turn. 27 (32)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), sk first dc, dcblo in each dc, dc in tch; turn. 27 (32)
Repeat Row 2 140 (160) times for a total of 142 (162) rows.
Fasten off.
FINAL SEAMING
To Seam Collar: With a doubled strand of AC and a tapestry needle, seam the foundation row and the last row of the collar together using the mattress stitch. Take care not to twist the collar.
To Seam Collar onto Shrug: With RS of shrug facing you, position collar seam at back of neck. (There isn’t really a top or bottom of the shrug, so whichever side gets the collar seam will become the neck.) Use stitch markers or safety pins to pin collar to shrug, aligning one ch1sp in the shrug with one row of the collar.
You may find that you don’t care to pin the collar all the way around, but rather just align each row and ch1sp as you seam.
With a doubled strand of MC and a tapestry needle, seam the shrug and collar together using the mattress stitch. Avoid joining extremely tightly so that seam is able to accommodate a small amount of stretch when the sweater is worn.
Weave in any remaining ends.
Pop on your new completely handmade sweater and head out to find James Dean, you all-American DIY-er, you!
You may also enjoy these free modern crochet patterns from Make & Do Crew:
1. Urban Gypsy Boho Bag free crochet pattern
2. Coachella Boots with Flip Flop Soles free crochet pattern
3. The Campfire Cardigan Free Crochet Pattern
4. Be a Deer free crochet afghan pattern
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Three things:
You are insanely adorable
I love that your mom is your crochet wingman
This shrug is AMAZING!
Great work Jess.
Haha, thank you, Jess! What a nice note! My mom is indeed pretty awesome and she’s a real go-getter when it comes to finishing things up on a deadline. (My entire wedding was proof of that! 🙂
Happy stitching to you, Jess!
Jess
i like your diy ideas
i mention one of your diy post in my blog
your blog is really amazing
keep up good work
I’m always awed by how you turn something so simple into something awesome.
Thank you so much for your inspiring and easy to follow patterns. Makes this 70 year old lady want to crochet more.
Oh, Sandy, I just love hearing that! Thank you for letting me know you’ve gotten the crochet bug too!
I would love to knit this. do you have a similar pet tern done for knitters.
Hey Margie,
I’m sorry, I don’t currently have a knitting pattern. If you’re someone who likes to get creative with knitting though, I think you could follow the general measurements and construction of this sweater to come up with your own knit version. 🙂
Jess
For the notes on how to adjust the width. It says that the width should reach your elbows. Does that mean if my arms are stretched out and two both elbows?
Hi. I’ve got a question what would you suggest to make it plus size. Ty
Hey Jennifer,
I think customizing it should be pretty straightforward actually. If you scroll through the pattern, you’ll see that I include notes in each section on how to tweak it to make it smaller or larger than the included pattern sizes. I think those notes could help you! If you have specific questions as you get going though, don’t hesitate to comment or email me. 🙂
Jess
Await can’t find the jean yarn ,. What could I use in place? Love the pattern.
Hey Audrey,
Lion Brand offers the Jeans yarn on their website, which is a great place to get it from and the shipping is quite fast. If you’d prefer not to order online though, you can substitute a different worsted weight yarn. I’d look for one that’s pretty soft and flexible so that is has a similar drape to the Jeans yarn. 🙂
Happy crocheting!
Jess
I love this pattern so much. I have a question on the ribbed Collar. Do you fold it in half and sew it together? It’s seems that it would be to tick to go with the lightness of the sweater? Thanks for the help I really want to make this.
I got it finally. Thanks😊
IN the above comment it should read ” to thick” thanks again for your help
Hi did you use an I 5.5 mm or a J 6.0 mm hook just want to be sure. Can’t wait to get started. Thanks, Laurie
I’m sorry, I just realized that I screwed the mm measurement up. It should be an I (5.5 mm) hook. I’ll update the pattern right now! 🙂
Hi! My name’s Penny and I’m from the south of Argentina.
I’ve started to crochet thanks to you and your blog and instructions 😄 I did one of your boots with flip-flops patterns which came out fantastic and now everyone in my family wants a pair too (currently I’ve finished 4 different pairs) now I want to try this one to give my mom for her birthday.
I think I have everything in the instructions figured out but I wanted to ask what SK stands for as it’s not in the abbreviations and glossary part.
Thank you very much for all your awesome patterns!
Hey Penny!
Hello from Colorado, USA! Thanks so much for your kind words. I love hearing how you’re outfitting your family in crochet boots! 🙂
Sk stands for “skip” as in just skip whatever stitch the pattern is referring to. I’ll update the glossary now. Thanks for pointing that out!
Jess
I have always wanted a shrug with actual sleeves so I was very excited to see your pattern! However, you say to use a hook size of “I-6mm”, and I can’t find this size hook. My I hooks are 5.5mm, my J hook is 6mm. Which should I use?
Oh yes, that’s an error on my part. Thanks so much for pointing it out. It should say 5.5 mm (which is an I). I hope you enjoy making your shrug!
Jess
Jess thank you for sharing all your awesome patterns!!
Thanks, Laurie
It brings my so much joy! Thanks for your support, Laurie!
xx
Jess
Hello Jess, love the easy crochet shrug.
What colors dud you use . Thank you
Hey MaryAnn,
I used Lion Brand Jeans yarn in “Classic” and “Stonewash.”
Happy crocheting!
Jess
This shrug sweater is just what I have been looking for. I can hardly wait for the yarn I ordered to come in the mail so I can get started and be finished before fall comes. There should be just about enough time to finish several UFO’s waiting in the closet that need to get done first. Quilts have been kind of been put onto the back burner right now. Thank you for sharing your creativity with us. Pam
Yay! I just love getting yarn in the mail too, Pam. And gosh, it’s hard to wait, isn’t it? I hope you enjoy your shrug as much as I do. I find myself reaching for it so often now that it’s part of my wardrobe. 🙂
Happy crocheting!
Jess
Just wonderful; i love the look of the fitted sleeves! Thanks for sharing all that you do!
Hey Caroline,
I really prefer the fitted sleeve look too. It feels more sweater-like to me. Thanks for saying hello! 🙂
Jess
Hi! I have just learned how to crochet, and after making your adorable amigurumi cupcake, I wanted to try this shrug. I’m having trouble though interpreting the instructions for row 1 of the body rectangle.
I have completed the initial instructions in row 1, but the “54 (62) ch1sp” at the end of the sentence is throwing me off. Am I supposed to do a single crochet in each space? Or is it still following the pattern in row 1, where I would sk 1 chain, ch 1, and double crochet into the chain space?
Thanks so much!
Hey Katrina,
Congrats on learning to crochet! That (54 (62) ch1sp) reference is just to how many little “windows” should be in your Row 1 from all the ch1sps you created in Row 1. Does that make sense?
Jess
I love this pattern! I’m new to crochet having knitted for several years. I have a question about the gauge. Do I need to do two swatches, one for the 8 rows of dc=4″ and one for the 8 sets of (1 dc and 1 ch)=4″? Or is this just making one swatch with 8 rows of 8 sets of 1dc and 1ch? I hope this makes sense!! Thanks for your help!
Hi Jess, I’m doing it in L, the first row says 62 spaces, and to work up to I think 81 spaces? Where in the pattern is there an increase?? The main portion is row 1, then repeat row 2 for x amount of rows, and at the end you should have an increase? I don’t see where the stitches are added, just a little confused, love this shrug, ty!
Hey Jen,
Yeah, I can see how that might be confusing. You’re right, you don’t increase at all. The first number of spaces is referring to the width of your rectangle, so each row you work should have 62 spaces. The second number is the vertical spaces, so once you’ve worked all the rows, you should have 81 spaces.
Hope that helps!
Jess
Hi, thanks so much for sharing your adorable shrug, I’ve stqrted crocheting it and am thoroughly enjoying it. I just have a question about the body rectangle, this is my understanding, the width is increasing with each row completed, the length is already determined by the first chains, is this correct? Are the 71 chsps that need to be completed just counting the holes of each chain space acrosse athe width? Thanks so much for your help
Vanessa 😀
Hey Vanessa,
Great question. You are correct. The width is increasing. And the chsps are exactly what you thought–those little windows across the width of your rows.
Happy crocheting!
Jess
I have such a ridiculous question. I am new to crochet and want to have a shrug done by the winter hopefully (haha) if I am buying off of the website do I need to by 7 individual packs of yarn? Thank you anyone for your help so excited to start!
Haha, I have ridiculous questions daily. 🙂 So, yes, you need to buy however many balls of yarn the pattern size calls for. So in the case of a L/XL, you’d want four skeins of the main color (MC) and three skeins of the accent color (AC). If you are making a S/M, you’ll need 3 of the MC and 2 of the AC.
Hope that is helpful! Send all your ridiculous questions my way!
Jess
I’m new to crochet having knitted for several years. I have a question about the gauge. Do I need to do two swatches, one for the 8 rows of dc=4″ and one for the 8 sets of (1 dc and 1 ch)=4″? Or is this just making one swatch with 8 rows of 8 sets of 1dc and 1ch? I hope this makes sense!! Thanks for your help!
REPLY
Hi Jess, I made one similar last year but like this with the sleeves so much better. Thanks for sharing! Maybe I’m just reading it wrong but I don’t understand the line “Attach AC in any ch1sc around sleeve.” for the end of the sleeve. So I attach the accent color, I assume I chain 1, then do I sc in each dc around or in each ch1 sp or both? Because then the next row is sc in each ch1 sp but how am I making spaces from the row above. Again, sorry for sounding so dense! Thanks!
Hey LaDonna,
I’m so happy to hear you’re excited to wear this! Are you referring to the end of the sleeve with your question? If so, I think the confusion might lay in the face that the second round isn’t single crocheted in the ch1sp, but instead in the sc.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each ch1sp around sleeve, sl st to first sc to join.
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc to end of round, sl to to first sc to join. Fasten off.
Let me know if you aren’t asking about this part of the pattern though! 🙂
Jess
Never mind my previous question. I figured it out.
Jess,
I am having a little problem and need your advice. I made my swatch to check my gauge. I had to go up toa 6.0mm hook but was at the measurements called for. After making my chain and Row 1, I am only measuring 31″, instead of the 35.5″ for the small. Any suggestions? I counted my ch1sp and I do have the 54 called for. I would greatly appreciate any suggestions you may have. I love this pattern and would really like to make it. Thanks for your help!!