Crochet Cardigan Pattern Using Deconstructed Yarn Cakes

Learn how to remix Mandala yarn cakes to create a stunning gradient effect in this free draped crochet cardigan pattern. Get Part 1 of the free pattern below, or purchase the complete pattern in the ad-free, printable PDF with schematic and color planning worksheet here. Part 2 available here.

This free draped crochet cardigan pattern is part of a collaboration with my friends at Lion Brand Yarn. This post contains affiliate links.

Oh boy, I’m excited to share this draped crochet cardigan pattern with you! (You can always find all my free crochet cardigan patterns here.) The entire process of dreaming up this pattern, remixing the yarn cakes and planning the gradient evoked such a feeling of creating just for the thrill of being a maker. I truly hope this free pattern and tutorial inspires the same in you!

And let’s just settle two questions I know you’re already thinking: NO, there are barely any ends to weave in when you’re done and YES, you can totally make this pattern without deconstructing your Mandala skeins–the stripes will just look different.

Why Remix a Yarn Cake?

The whole concept of self-striping yarn is to simplify the process of color combining, so it may take a minute to wrap your head around the idea of cutting these gorgeous cakes up. The beauty of deconstructing yarn cakes though is that it allows you to curate the exact gradient you want your sweater to have, including some really beautiful and nuanced color transitions that to me feel a lot like hand-dyed yarn.

UPDATE: I put together a step-by-step video tutorial that covers how to choose your colors, deconstruct your yarn cakes and plan your gradient. Check it out here.

Where to Find Inspiration for Remixing Your Mandala Yarn

One of the reasons I love our crochet community so much is that it feels like swimming in a giant sea of inspiration. Recently, Ashley of MontanaCrochet.com tagged me on Instagram because she was using this deconstruction technique to make the Day Date Cardigan pattern. She had been inspired by Kristina of MiramarWoods hand carved crochet hooks who was remixing yarn cakes to make sweaters.

Seeing both these crocheter’s creativity was like jet fuel for my imagination. (Check out Montana Crochet here on Instagram and MiramarWoods here–they are both such an inspiration!) I put my kids to bed as fast as humanly possible, kissed my husband and ran out to buy some yarn!

A few days later, my family and I took a mountain biking trip to Moab, Utah and I knew the color palette for my own deconstructed Mandala experiment had been born.

What Types of Yarn Cakes and Colors to Remix

For this pattern, I used one of my favorite cake yarns, which is Lion Brand Mandala in the colors Pegasus and Warlock. Mandala is machine washable, soft and just the right weight to create a flowy cardigan that drapes beautifully.

Perhaps the most exciting thing though–Lion Brand is now making a few other cake yarns called Mandala Baby, Mandala Sparkle and Cupcake that all have identical weight and fiber content so you can mix and match and shades from within any of these three product lines to “paint” your gradient. Seriously, how fun is that? There are SO MANY color options. Click on the following links to see what colors strike your inner artist’s fancy: Original Mandala, Mandala Baby, Mandala Sparkle, Cupcake.

Okay, So How Do I Remix Mandala Yarn To Make My Own Cardigan?

The whole time I was designing this draped cardigan, I kept thinking about the best way to share the technique I had developed to map out my gradients for the pattern. After a lot of thought and discussion with my analytical husband, I created a tutorial and worksheet for the printable PDF that walks you step-by-step through planning your gradient for your own sweater (regardless of the size you’re making or colors you’re using!)

And maybe most helpful, the PDF includes a chart that shows how much yarn you’ll need for each section of the pattern, so you can really allocate your colors exactly as you wish. You can purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with color planning worksheet and chart here.

TIP: With or without the worksheet, you’ll find remixing your Mandala cakes much easier if you have an inexpensive kitchen scale to weigh your yarn. This is the $10 version I use (and it’s super handy to have around for other crochet projects too.) 

This Draped Crochet Cardigan Pattern is Easy!

Alright, let’s talk about the pattern for a sec, shall we? This flowy, draped crochet cardigan is a piece of cake (cake yarn, that is!) Truly, it is made from a big rectangle, with some creative construction sneekery to avoid any increasing or decreasing for the armholes. The only stitch you’ll need to know is double crochet.

While the sleeves do include some increases, they are mapped out in a very simple visual chart in the printable PDF that’ll walk you through exactly which rows to increase on. (Def worth the small investment for less experienced pattern readers!)

With very little seaming, this pattern is quite appropriate for a confident beginner. And if you’re intimidated by the whole deconstructing yarn thing, just opt to crochet with Mandala straight as it comes and you’ll end up with a beautiful cardigan with repeating stripes.

Would you like to know more about deconstructing yarn cakes? Or how to make this cardigan step-by-step? I’ve been thinking of putting together some video tutorials, so let me know in the comments if that’s something you’d like to see.

New to making cardigans? Don’t miss How to Crochet a Sweater for our best beginner tips

More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns

Crochet sweater patterns don’t need to be difficult. In fact, most of ours are made with very simple shapes. Dive into the wonderful world of crochet garments with cardigans, pullovers, ponchos, shrugs and more!

See more free crochet sweater patterns →

You can find Part 2 of the free pattern here or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with the complete pattern and color planning worksheet right now here!

Part 1: The Remix Crochet Cardigan
Free Pattern Using Deconstructed Mandala Cakes

Purchase Parts 1 & 2 of the pattern with color planning weight chart and worksheet here.

Add this to your Ravelry favorites or queue here.

Pin this pattern for later here.

Watch the detailed video tutorial on planning your gradient here.

Explanation:
Inspired by the landscape of the American southwest, the Remix Cardigan is a simple pattern you can make uniquely yours. Opt to indulge your inner artist by deconstructing cakes of Lion Brand Mandala yarn to curate your color gradient, or skip this step and take the colors as they come straight out of the cake. Either way, you’ll be left with a modern, flowy cardigan that drapes beautifully and flatters many figures. (And you’ll be shocked at how few tails are left to weave in at the end!)

Skills required included double crochet and working in the round.

Supplies:
This pattern contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
• Lion Brand Mandala (Weight: 3/light – 590 yds, 5.3 oz)
– 4 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7) minimum skeins [(approx. 570 (646, 729, 773, 872, 916) g)]
Pictured:
– Pegasus & Warlock (IMPORTANT: Extra yarn is necessary to achieve gradient pictured in sample. See more in “Notes” below)
• Tapestry needle
• Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins
• Inexpensive kitchen scale (optional, but extremely helpful if planning a gradient)

Sizes:
S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X

Fits Bust:
S: 32-36”
M: 36-40”
L: 40-44”
1X: 44-48”
2X: 48-52”
3X: 52-56”

See schematic in printable PDF for additional measurements. When choosing size, consider armhole size as determining factor as main body of sweater is quite forgiving in its sizing. If in doubt, size up. Sample is a size small shown on a 5’9” model with a 36” bust.

Gauge:
15 dc = 4”
9 rows = 4”

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
fdc – foundation double crochet
inc – increase(s)
rep – repeat
PM – place marker
RS – right side
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
tch – turning chain
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over

Overall Pattern + Sizing Notes:
• Sample pictured was made by deconstructing skeins of Mandala yarn cakes and reorganizing the colors to create a gradient. Use the tutorial and color planning worksheet at the end of the printable PDF to roughly map out your gradient if desired.

Working this way requires some planning and extra yarn. Here’s what you’ll need to replicate a look similar to the gradient pictured. (Don’t be afraid to try different colorways too. You may even choose to combine shades of Lion Brand Cupcake yarn and Mandala Baby, which both have an identical weight and fiber content to Mandala.)

Small:
Mandala “Pegasus” x 2 balls
Mandala “Warlock” x 3 balls

Medium:
Mandala “Pegasus” x 2 balls
Mandala “Warlock” x 4 balls

Large:
Mandala “Pegasus” x 2-3 balls
Mandala “Warlock” x 4 balls

1X:
Mandala “Pegasus” x 3 balls
Mandala “Warlock” x 4 balls

2X:
Mandala “Pegasus” x 3 balls
Mandala “Warlock” x 4-5 balls

3X:
Mandala “Pegasus” x 4 balls
Mandala “Warlock” x 4-5 balls

• For more details on planning your gradient, watch this video tutorial.

• If you choose to remix colors by deconstructing yarn cakes, a simple kitchen scale is a very helpful tool in allocating your stripes per color. Here is the inexpensive option I like.

• Main sweater body and hood is worked in one piece. Sleeves are worked in the round separately and joined to body at end.

• If working a gradient, complete all color changes at the end of a row as follows: work the final yo of the last dc of the row with the new color.

• Crocheting over all yarn ends as you go will greatly reduce the number of tails left to weave in. By doing so, you should have only about 15 mins of weaving in when your project is complete.

• Ch 3 at beginning of each row/round always counts as a dc.

Main Sweater Body

Notes:
• If remixing colors, work 3 rows in the first color you’d like to appear at the bottom of the sweater. Then use a kitchen scale to weigh the 3-row piece in grams. Divide the total weight by 3. This number is how much each of the rows of your main sweater body will “weigh” (and therefore how much yarn they will consume). This is very helpful in planning how many rows to work of each color. See tutorial at end of printable PDF for more step-by-step details on how to calculate and plan gradient.

• Because of the long length of the foundation, using the foundation double crochet stitch is recommended. Only work one foundation from the options below.

Foundation Option #1:

Foundation Row: 190 (205, 220, 235, 250, 265) Fdc. [190 (205, 220, 235, 250, 265) dc]

Move on to sweater body.

Foundation Option #2:

Foundation Row: Ch 192 (207, 222, 237, 252, 267).

Foundation Row 2: Sk 3 ch, dc in each ch to end; turn. [190 (205, 220, 235, 250, 265) dc]

Move on to sweater body.

Sweater Body

Row 2: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc to end; turn. [190 (205, 220, 235, 250, 265) dc]

Rows 3-38 (42, 46, 46, 52, 52): Rep Row 2.

1X: 69 sts, PM, 17 sts, PM, 63 sts, PM, 17 sts, PM, 69 sts

2X: 72 sts, PM, 21 sts, PM, 64 sts, PM, 21 sts, PM, 72 sts

3X: 72 sts, PM, 28 sts, PM, 65 sts, PM, 28 sts, PM, 72 sts

Continuing with working yarn, work first front between outside edge and first marker as follows:

Front #1:

Row 1: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc to marker; turn. [57 (61, 65, 69, 72, 72 ) dc]

Rows 2-15 (17, 19, 19, 21, 21): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc to end; turn. [57 (61, 65, 69, 72, 72 ) dc]

Cut yarn leaving an 8” tail and pull through last st to fasten off.

Back:

Continue working in same direction as first row of Front #1. Sk the 12 (14, 15, 17, 21, 28) sts between armhole markers. Join yarn in first st of back.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next st after join, dc in each dc to marker; turn. [52 (55, 60, 63, 64, 65) dc]

Rows 2-15 (17, 19, 19, 21, 21): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc to end; turn. [52 (55, 60, 63, 64, 65) dc]

Cut yarn leaving an 8” tail and pull through last st to fasten off.

Front #2:

Continue working in same direction as first row of Front #1 and Back. Sk the 12 (14, 15, 17, 21, 28) sts between second armhole markers. Join yarn in first st of second front.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next st after join, dc in each dc to end; turn. [57 (61, 65, 69, 72, 72 ) dc]

Rows 2-15 (17, 19, 19, 21, 21): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc to end; turn. [57 (61, 65, 69, 72, 72) dc]

Do not cut yarn.

Use tail from Front #1 to sl st to side of ch-3 of last row of Back. (See photo below.)

Use tail from Back to sl st to side of ch-3 of last row of Front #2.

The Front, Back and Front should now be joined again.

Collar

Continue with working yarn from Front #2.

Row 1: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc, ch-3, and sl st to end; turn (inc of 2 sts). [168 (179, 192, 203, 210, 211) dc]

TIP: Row 1 in layman’s terms means that you’ll double crochet across the row, placing a double crochet in each double crochet as well as the top of the ch-3 turning chains at the sides of the columns. (These have always counted as dcs anyhow.) Also place a double crochet under the two slip stitches that join the columns. (See photo below.)

Rows 2-3: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc to end; turn. [168 (179, 192, 203, 210, 211) dc]

Main sweater body should now have a total of 56 (62, 68, 68, 76, 76) rows.

Hood

Notes:
• Hood is worked back and forth in rows and seamed at top. Think of it as similar to the middle column of “Diving for Armholes.” (See photo of main sweater piece in blog post above.)

• When placing markers, ch 3 at beginning of row counts as a dc.

• To eliminate hood, skip this section and work one extra collar row instead. Then also eliminate the finishing border.

Divide stitches as follows by placing a marker between stitches at appropriate points.

Small: 50 sts, PM, 68 sts, PM, 50 sts

Medium: 54 sts, PM, 71 sts, PM, 54 sts

Large: 59 sts, PM, 74 sts, PM, 59 sts

1X: 64 sts, PM, 75 sts, PM, 64 sts

2X: 67 sts, PM, 76 sts, PM, 67 sts

3X: 67 sts, PM, 77 sts, PM, 67 sts

With WS of last collar row facing you, join yarn in first stitch of middle section between markers.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc in next st after join, dc in each dc to marker; turn. [68 (71, 74, 75, 76, 77) dc]

Row 2: Ch 3, sk first dc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in each dc until tch remains, 2 dc in tch; turn. [70 (73, 76, 77, 78, 79) dc]

Rows 3-32: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc to end; turn. [70 (73, 76, 77, 78, 79) dc]

Fasten off leaving 24” tail for seaming.

You’re so close to finishing up this simple, flowy cardigan! Now, head to Part 2 where we’ll crochet the sleeves, seam the hood and add pockets. If you like all your crochet info in one easily printable place, purchase the complete ad-free PDF here. 

And while you’re at it, here are more easy, free crochet cardigan patterns you might enjoy. (And they all include plus sizes!)

Find Your Next Sweater Project

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• Hooded Sweater Pattern – Self, striping Mandala yarn pattern
• Tapestry Crochet Pattern – classic fisherman’s sweater
• Seamless Cardigan Pattern – doable first sweater for beginners
• How to Crochet a Top Down Sweater – stylish, slim fit
• Lightweight Cropped Sweater – stylish 3 season top
• Easy Poncho With Sleeves – made entirely from rectangles
• Beginner Cardigan with Video – uses only half double crochet stitches

1. Staycation Cardigan – free, oversized women’s cardigan pattern

2. Habitat Cardigan – free crochet cardigan pattern made from a simple rectangle (+ video tutorial)

3. Dwell Sweater – super easy, chunky free crochet cardigan pattern + video tutorial

4. Stonewash Shrug – simple, lightweight free crochet sweater pattern