This easy, cotton crochet cardigan pattern for beginners uses a very simple construction to create a show-stopping look with entry level skills. Get Part 1 of the free pattern and video tutorial below including plus sizes or purchase the complete ad-free, printable PDF with schematic for $2.99 here. Find Part 2 here.
This crochet cardigan pattern for beginners is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarn. This post contains affiliate links.
The Pattern Lowdown
With the main fronts and backs of this easy crochet sweater pattern for beginners worked in one piece and the sleeves crocheted in the round in Part 1, you’ll eliminate many of the seams you’d find in a crochet or knit sweater. Instead in Part 2, you’ll focus your energy on a few specific accent details like a rolled collar and comfy pockets that’ll elevate the entire look of your handmade cardigan. Keep reading for lots more pattern details or scroll down for Part 1 of the video tutorial and the free crochet cardigan pattern for beginners.
Can a Beginner Really Crochet This Cardigan?
For the longest time, I thought that learning how to crochet a sweater had to be this mind-numbing process of counting, increasing and decreasing, only to end up with something that would get passed over in a thrift store. Guys, I was so wrong.
Crocheting a sweater is a little like following a recipe. The pattern tells you each step of the process and your job is to execute those steps in order. Well, the Up North Cardigan is a very simple recipe.
To make this easy crochet cardigan pattern, you only need to know how to half double crochet, work in the round and sew a very simple seam. (Don’t worry though, a tutorial on that is included in the free pattern below!)
For me, these steps represent my favorite kind of crochet sweater pattern–each one on it’s own is quite easy and beginner-friendly, but the sum of the steps creates something that looks far from entry level.
What Makes This Crochet Cardigan So Beginner Friendly?
Often I think the overwhelm in figuring out how to crochet a sweater comes in the idea that there are so many complicated pieces to make, only to then need to figure how to not ruin them in the process of putting them together.
In the case of easy crochet cardigan pattern though, the entire main body of the sweater is worked in one large, slightly tapered piece. This means the only seaming necessary to turn your odd-shaped table cloth into something wearable is some simple shoulder seams. If you like the sound of this, you’ll love the free Remix Cardigan pattern too!
Next you’ll work the sleeves in turned rounds, which means they’re very similar to crocheting regular rows of half double crochet, but you’ll slip stitch to join each one so that you don’t have to seam the sleeves once they’re finished. (Sound confusing? The video tutorial below covers each part of crocheting this sweater step-by-step!)
AND THEN…you’ll have your very own completely handmade sweater that looks and feels like a luxury splurge!
Cotton — the Perfect Fiber for an All Season Crochet Cardigan
Cotton is one of my favorite fibers to crochet with (like in the Urban Gypsy Boho Bag pattern or for crochet shoes with flip flop soles), but I hadn’t ever come across an affordable cotton that I also thought had the right softness and drape for a crochet sweater pattern.
Enter Lion Brand’s Comfy Cotton Blend! This yarn is a fairly new addition to Lion Brand’s line up and as it sounds, it’s a blend of 50 percent cotton and 50 percent acrylic. The result is this really beautiful marled yarn that is lightweight enough to drape elegantly, but also heavy enough to make for a really comfortable, sophisticated-feeling sweater.
It’s hard to explain, but this sweater just has a different weight to it that is so incredibly pleasant to wear. I really hope you give this yarn a try because everyone who I’ve chatted with about it on Instagram has loved it too. (If we’re not Instagram friends, come over and say hello!) There are a bunch of really lovely nature-inspired colors of Comfy Cotton Blend and you can check them all out here.
UPDATE: Lion Brand has turned the Up North Crochet Cardigan into a crochet kit! You’ll receive all the yarn you need to make your own, plus a printed copy of the pattern. Grab your kit here!
More Easy Crochet Sweater Patterns for Beginners
It was about a year a half ago that I made my first crochet garment and since then I’ve gotten so into making my own crochet clothing. If I can apply my short attention span to crocheting a sweater, so can you! Here are a few of my most popular free crochet sweater patterns, many of which have step-by-step video tutorials and include plus sizes. You can always find all my free crochet sweater patterns here.
Alright, feeling inspired to crochet this cardigan pattern? Let’s do it!
How to Crochet the Up North Cardigan Video Tutorial
No matter how easy the pattern, I know some of us just learn better visually, so below you’ll find Part 1 of the step-by-step video tutorial for crocheting the Up North Cardigan. (And if crochet video tutorials are your jam, you can find all our video tutorials here!) Once you’re finished with Part 1, move on to Part 2 of the video tutorial and free pattern.
Up North Crochet Cardigan Pattern For Beginners Free Pattern – Part 1
Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with schematic for $2.99 here.
Explanation: This easy crochet cardigan pattern for beginners uses a very simple construction to create a show-stopping look with entry level skills. With the main fronts and backs of this pattern worked in one piece and the sleeves crocheted in the round, you’ll eliminate many of the seams you’d find in a typical sweater. Instead, you’ll focus your energy on a few specific accent details like a rolled collar and comfy pockets that’ll elevate the entire look of your four-season cotton cardigan.
Advanced beginner skills required, including half double crochet, working in the round and basic seaming. (See photo below in Seaming section for tutorial.)
Supplies: Purchase a kit with all the yarn + a printed copy of the pattern here. • Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend (Weight: 3/light – 392 yds, 7 oz) – Driftwood (#756-710) – 5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 8) skeins [(approx. 880 (980, 1095, 1220, 1315, 1430) g)] • Tapestry needle • Size K (6.5 mm) crochet hook • Stitch markers or safety pins • T-pins and iron or steamer for blocking
For additional measurement details for each finished size, see schematic in ad-free, printable PDF.
Gauge: 13 hdc x 10 rows = 4”
Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms): ch – chain dec – decrease hdc – half double crochet hdc2tog – half double crochet two together hdcflo – half double crochet through the front loop only hdcflo2tog– half double crochet two together through the front loop only inc – increase PM – place marker RS – right side sk – skip sl st – slip stitch st(s) – stitch(es) WS – wrong side
Overall Pattern Notes: • To minimize seaming, cardigan back and fronts are worked in one piece. Similarly, sleeves are worked in the round and added to main sweater piece. Collar and pockets are worked separately and added last.
• Chain 2 at beginning of row never counts as a half double crochet.
• Pattern is written for smallest size, with larger sizes following in parentheses. S (M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X) It can be helpful to circle all notes for your size before beginning.
MAIN BODY OF SWEATER
Notes: • Recommended Foundation Row is worked in foundation half double crochet stitches because it’s much easier than working into a long chain. If foundation half double crochet intimidates you, use Alternative Foundation Chain followed by Alternative Foundation Row 1.
Recommended Foundation Row 1 (RS): 122 (134, 148, 160, 174, 186) foundation hdc; turn. [122 (134, 148, 160, 174, 186)]
Or
Alternative Foundation Chain (WS): Ch 124 (136, 150, 162, 176, 188). Alternative Foundation Row 1 (RS): Sk 2 ch, hdc in each ch to end; turn. [122 (134, 148, 160, 174, 186)]
Rows 2-39 (41, 41, 41, 43, 45): Ch 2, hdc in each hdc; turn. [122 (134, 148, 160, 174, 186)]
End with a RS row. Do not fasten off.
Decreasing:
PM in between the stitches listed below counting from each side of sweater front edges. (2 markers total for each size)
S: 35th and 36th sts M: 40th and 41st sts L: 46th and 47th sts 1X: 49th and 50th sts 2X: 52nd and 53rd sts 3X: 56th and 57th sts
All decreases will take place between the two markers in the center section of the sweater.
After working the decrease stitch, remove marker and replace it in top of newly created stitch.
Row 1 (WS dec): Ch 2, hdc in next 35 (40, 46, 49, 52, 56) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in each hdc until 2 sts remain before marker, hdc2tog, hdc in each hdc to end of row; turn. [120 (132, 146, 158, 172, 184)]
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8: Ch 2, hdc in each hdc; turn. Move markers up as row is worked.
Row 3 (WS dec): Ch 2, hdc in next 35 (40, 46, 49, 52, 56) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in each hdc until 2 sts remain before marker, hdc2tog, hdc in each hdc to end of row; turn. [118 (130, 144, 156, 170, 182)]
Row 5 (WS dec): Ch 2, hdc in next 35 (40, 46, 49, 52, 56) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in each hdc until 2 sts remain before marker, hdc2tog, hdc in each hdc to end of row; turn. [116 (128, 142, 154, 168, 180)]
Row 7 (WS dec): Ch 2, hdc in next 35 (40, 46, 49, 52, 56) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in each hdc until 2 sts remain before marker, hdc2tog, hdc in each hdc to end of row; turn. [114 (126, 140, 152, 166, 178)]
Row 9 (WS dec): Ch 2, hdc in next 35 (40, 46, 49, 52, 56) hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in each hdc until 2 sts remain before marker, hdc2tog, hdc in each hdc to end of row; turn. [112 (124, 138, 150, 164, 176)]
End with a WS row. Do not fasten off. Remove markers.
Dividing for Back and Fronts:
Notes: • Back and both fronts will now be worked in separate columns. (See photo in blog post above for what back and fronts will look like once complete.)
• When working between markers, last stitch will be completed in stitch before marker, then turn work.
PM in between the stitches listed below counting from each side of sweater front edges (2 new markers from each edge, 4 markers total). These 4 markers mark the edges of the two armholes.
First set: S: 22nd and 23rd sts M: 24th and 25th sts L: 24th and 25th sts 1X: 27th and 28th sts 2X: 30th and 31st sts 3X: 32nd and 33rd sts
Second Set: S: 30th and 31st sts M: 35th and 36th sts L: 41st and 42nd sts 1X: 44th and 45th sts 2X: 47th and 48th sts 3X: 51st and 52nd sts
First Front:
Continuing with yarn attached:
Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, hdc in each hdc to first armhole marker; turn. [22 (24, 24, 27, 30, 32)]
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, hdc in each hdc to end; turn. [22 (24, 24, 27, 30, 32)]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 20 (20, 22, 24, 24, 26) rows total are completed in First Front. End with a WS row. Fasten off leaving a 24” tail.
Back:
With RS facing, attach yarn in 31st (36th, 42nd, 45th, 48th, 52nd) stitch, right on the other side of armhole from First Front.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, hdc in each hdc to armhole marker; turn. [52 (54, 56, 62, 70, 74)]
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, hdc in each hdc to armhole marker; turn. [52 (54, 56, 62, 70, 74)]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 20 (20, 22, 24, 24, 26) rows total are completed in Back. End with a WS row. Fasten off.
Second Front:
With RS facing, attach yarn in st after last st marker.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, hdc in each hdc to end; turn. [22 (24, 24, 27, 30, 32)]
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, hdc in each hdc to armhole marker; turn. [22 (24, 24, 27, 30, 32)]
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 20 (20, 22, 24, 24, 26) rows total are completed in Second Front. End with a WS row. Fasten off leaving a 24” tail.
SLEEVES
Main Sleeves:
Notes: • Sleeves are worked in turned rounds. After slip stitch to join at end of each round, TURN work so next round can be worked in opposite direction.
• See photo above for completed sleeve.
Make 2.
Foundation Round: Ch 30 (30, 34, 34, 36, 38), sl st to join taking care not to twist ch.
Round 1 (RS): Ch 2, hdc in each ch, sl st to join; turn. [30 (30, 34, 34, 36, 38)]
Rounds 2-4: Ch 2, hdc in each hdc, sl st to join; turn. [30 (30, 34, 34, 36, 38)]
Round 5 (RS inc): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first hdc, hdc in each hdc until 1 st remains, 2 hdc in last hdc, sl st to join; turn. [32 (32, 36, 36, 38, 40)]
Repeat Rounds 2-5 an additional 11 (11, 11, 2, 5, 4) times. Sleeve should have 54, (54, 58, 40, 48, 48) sts.
Sizes S and M only: Increasing completed, go to All Sizes.
Size L only: Repeat Round 5 once more. (60 sts) Increasing completed, go to All Sizes.
Sizes 1X, 2X, and 3X only: You will work 2 even rounds followed by 1 increase round.
I love to see your in-progress projects! Use #MakeAndDoCrew and tag me Instagram (@MakeAndDoCrew) to show off your stitches and have a chance to be featured.
Thank you for sharing my patterns and tutorials. When you do, it helps support the blog and my ability to create more free patterns. Which, by the way, I seriously love to do. So really, I mean it, thank you.
You may make items to sell with this pattern/tutorial. In exchange, I ask that you link back to this post page. Do not use my photos as your own sales photos. Do not distribute my patterns/templates as your own. Permission is NOT granted for mass production or factory manufacturing of any kind.
Comments
Darlene Reuss
Are Christmas Afghan graphs and written instructions available for fee or in any of your books? Trying to scroll through page after page on your site very time consuming and I like to have a hard copy of my patterns when I do projects
Is the C2C Christmas afghan what you’re looking for? All the graphs are linked in the individual blog posts. Feel free to download those graphs and print them. Unfortunately, I don’t have the written instructions for those at this time. Hopefully at some point in the future!
Jess, I would like to make the Up North cardigan in a wool yarn, I would like a warmer cardigan. Is that possible with this pattern. What changes do I need to make, i.e. crochet hook, gauge, etc…
I think a wool would be beautiful. My suggestion would be to look for a similar weight yarn (category 3-DK weight) and then do a gauge swatch to see if you need to adjust your hook size to meet the pattern gauge. YarnSub.com is a good resource to look for yarns with a similar gauge to what a pattern calls for. 🙂
This pattern says it is free. I am unable to get the free download, why? Following the instructions just takes me in a circle. Never see a print button.
The entire free pattern is included above. If you’d like a version that’s formatted for printing, you can purchase it for a small fee here. (I don’t make any money if you print the pattern from the blog post, so the only way I can continue offering patterns when people print them is if I charge a few dollars for the printable PDFs.)
As much as I would LOVE to make this with Lion Brand Comfy Cottan Blend, I’m from Canada, where it isn’t available. Also, when I go online, I CAN have it…at a price of $18.50 EACH~. Sad face…
AW MAN! That’s a bummer. I really like this yarn, but $18.50 is a lot! You could search YarnSub.com to see what other options you might be able to use that are available near you. 🙂
Maybe I am overlooking something, but I have not been able to find the tutorial videos for the Up North Cardigan. Do I have to purchase the pdf pattern to gain access to the videos? Regards, Suzanne
I don’t have an ad blocker on and I still cant find where the video is for part 1 or 2. I can seem to watch video tutorials in any other website but not here :{ I even went into my internet security and added your site to allow ads to come up, but still nothing, boooo-hoooo. Ive gotten to the 41st row and kind of confused at the decreasing stage
Hi! Love this cardigan and I’m going to have a go at making it. I have never made a garment before in crochet – so i’m Really looking forward to making this. What other weight or type of yarn can you suggest if I don’t want to use the cotton blend? I’m thinking of something soft & snuggly.
I’m so happy to hear you’ll give this one a go. I’ve been loving wearing mine! I’d search YarnSub.com for some alternate DK/light worsted weight yarns. The most important thing when subbing the yarn is to achieve the pattern gauge so you know your sweater will fit. 🙂
Hello! This is a super cute and sweet sweater, However after watching the video my opinion is that this would be beyond a beginner project, I would say its more like intermediate due to the many different steps needed to make it. I’m an experienced crocheter, have been doing it for years and all the steps and different things to do was even overwhelming to me. I do love it but it would be a lengthy project to make. Maybe sometime I might tackle it when I have more time. God Bless!
Thanks for the feedback. Since every project varies in length, I assign the difficulty based on the skills needed to complete it instead of the time needed to complete. In this case, those skills are quite accessible and thoroughly explained in the video tutorial.
Of course, some less experienced crocheters (and some more advanced) will seek smaller projects, but for those who want the satisfaction of making a garment, I think this one can be appropriate for most levels.
I really love your pattern! Beautiful outcome! 🙂 I’ve shared it on my own blog, linking back here of course, as I know a lot of my crochet beginner viewers would love to see this pattern!
The video is right above the written pattern in the blog post above. If you’re having trouble viewing it, it could be because you’re using an ad-blocker? If that’s the case, you turning your ad-blocker off will solve the issue! 🙂
It depends on the size you’re making. So you’ll count from the right side of the cardigan edge toward the middle to place the first marker. Then count from the right side of the cardigan edge again to place the second marker. Then you’ll repeat that process, but count from the left edge of the cardigan for both the first and second marker.
Hi Jess, Beautiful crocheted cardigan design. I am asking for information regarding division on the back and fronts. How many stitch are there from the first marker to the second marker? It is a break where the sleeve is sew. Is it thirteen stitch? I do not know if this is understandable, I do not know English well.
It depends on the size you’re making. So you’ll count from the right side of the cardigan edge toward the middle to place the first marker. Then count from the right side of the cardigan edge again to place the second marker. Then you’ll repeat that process, but count from the left edge of the cardigan. Depending on the side you’re making, there will be about 10-15 stitches left in the space for each arm hole. I hope that makes sense!
I’m making the size small and have completed the 39 beginning rows but it says that it should end on RS however my row 39 ends on the WS. Do I remove a row? This is for my mother and she is short so if removing a row effects the length of the sweater then it shouldn’t really be a problem but I just wanted to make sure since this is only my second garment having just made a cardigan for my grandson.
I just finishedy up north cardigan and i love it. I is the first garment i ever crocheted. I love it. I made mine mostly baby blue trimmed in white. Thank you Much
Hello I did buy the pattern but I’m not sure I received all the information properly I did get to rows 39 without too much trouble but for the arm holes it not very clear to me I’m having a difficult time decreeing your wording if you have a more incitful pattern plz share it. Or update to this one Thank you
I love this pattern it’s really quick and easy and it looks great with this yarn. I’m just wondering if you made any mock-ups of the plus sizes because I’m in the middle of doing the sleeves and they just seem enormous!
On the sleeves it says for s & m 49 rows( before starting the V shape) But all other sizes end in an even row. When doing it i end with row 48 being an increase row having 54 stitches. Do i do one more row?
I have a question on sizing. It says above that the model is 5’5″ model with a 32″ bust and the sweater seems to fit her perfectly, but it doesn’t specifically say which size she’s wearing. Is she modeling the size small?
Hi Jess, Are you aware you have discrepancies between your pattern on here and the PDF that I purchased and printed out. The discrepancies are where you place the markers when Dividing for Back and Fronts. I am doing the sweater as a large. The pattern on here says to place the stitch markers on the first set at the 24th & 25th stitch and at the 41st & 42nd stitch on the second set. The back will have 56 stitches. But the PDF has them at stitches 26-27 and 43-44 and the back with 58 stitches. The math of course does not work out on the PDF with the 138 stitches left after the decrease rows. Placing the markers according to the PDF only gives me 52 stitches for the back. I was curious to see if the pattern was the same on here and if there were any comments about the stitch count being off. Math works for the marker placement on here though. Just not on the PDF.
Hi Jess, I remarked above about the marker placement in the stitches. I went through the rest of the pattern and compared the pattern on here and the PDF. The marker placements are again different for the decrease rounds on the “Main Body of Sweater” but you still end up with the correct amount of stitches when you get to the Dividing Back and Fronts.
Hi I love this pattern. It’s my first garment and I’m proud of what I’ve got so far. So, I am now at the place markers section for the front and back parts (4 markers). I placed at 24 and 25 1st set. Then 41 and 42 second. Well when I went to crochet the first front panel to the st itch before marker on the 24th I only ended with 23 half doubles. So anyway I moved the marker over one. Is this ok? Confused honestly.
I am in the process of making this sweater and have almost completed the front/back section. In the video you go to the collar but there are no written directions for the collar or pockets to know how many rows/stitches for each size of sweater. I was reading along on the pattern written above, but it seems to have skipped the collar section and talked about the sleeves. Are you only able to get that if you pay for the pdf version.
Are Christmas Afghan graphs and written instructions available for fee or in any of your books? Trying to scroll through page after page on your site very time consuming and I like to have a hard copy of my patterns when I do projects
Hey Darlene,
Is the C2C Christmas afghan what you’re looking for? All the graphs are linked in the individual blog posts. Feel free to download those graphs and print them. Unfortunately, I don’t have the written instructions for those at this time. Hopefully at some point in the future!
Jess
Such a cute cardigan, Jess! Love the construction!
Can’t wait for the FULL video of this, has I have trouble reading patterns.. hope it’s on youtubr?
Hey Liz,
Yes, it’ll be on the blog in a few days and Youtube a few days after that! 🙂
Jess
I’ll add this easy beauty to my never ending list! Thanks Jess…
Happy Thanksgiving…Jessika
Yay! My list is about that long too! 🙂
Happy Thanksgiving!
Jess
Jess, I would like to make the Up North cardigan in a wool yarn, I would like a warmer cardigan. Is that possible with this pattern. What changes do I need to make, i.e. crochet hook, gauge, etc…
Hey Janice,
I think a wool would be beautiful. My suggestion would be to look for a similar weight yarn (category 3-DK weight) and then do a gauge swatch to see if you need to adjust your hook size to meet the pattern gauge. YarnSub.com is a good resource to look for yarns with a similar gauge to what a pattern calls for. 🙂
Jess
This pattern says it is free. I am unable to get the free download, why? Following the instructions just takes me in a circle. Never see a print button.
Hey Sharon,
The entire free pattern is included above. If you’d like a version that’s formatted for printing, you can purchase it for a small fee here. (I don’t make any money if you print the pattern from the blog post, so the only way I can continue offering patterns when people print them is if I charge a few dollars for the printable PDFs.)
Thanks for your support!
Jess
As much as I would LOVE to make this with Lion Brand Comfy Cottan Blend, I’m from Canada, where it isn’t available. Also, when I go online, I CAN have it…at a price of $18.50 EACH~. Sad face…
AW MAN! That’s a bummer. I really like this yarn, but $18.50 is a lot! You could search YarnSub.com to see what other options you might be able to use that are available near you. 🙂
Could you put this in a kit.? Include the pattern and yarn.
Maybe I am overlooking something, but I have not been able to find the tutorial videos for the Up North Cardigan.
Do I have to purchase the pdf pattern to gain access to the videos?
Regards,
Suzanne
Hey Suzanne,
Do you use an ad-blocker? If so, that will often make the video player disappear. 🙁
Without an ad-blocker turned on though, you should be able to see it above the beginning of the written pattern.
Jess
I don’t have an ad blocker on and I still cant find where the video is for part 1 or 2. I can seem to watch video tutorials in any other website but not here :{ I even went into my internet security and added your site to allow ads to come up, but still nothing, boooo-hoooo. Ive gotten to the 41st row and kind of confused at the decreasing stage
Hey Wendy,
Removing the ad blocker is usually the fix. Feel free to watch it on my youtube channel if that’s easier.
Hi! Love this cardigan and I’m going to have a go at making it. I have never made a garment before in crochet – so i’m Really looking forward to making this. What other weight or type of yarn can you suggest if I don’t want to use the cotton blend? I’m thinking of something soft & snuggly.
Hey Jody!
I’m so happy to hear you’ll give this one a go. I’ve been loving wearing mine! I’d search YarnSub.com for some alternate DK/light worsted weight yarns. The most important thing when subbing the yarn is to achieve the pattern gauge so you know your sweater will fit. 🙂
Jess
Hello! This is a super cute and sweet sweater, However after watching the video my opinion is that this would be beyond a beginner project, I would say its more like intermediate due to the many different steps needed to make it. I’m an experienced crocheter, have been doing it for years and all the steps and different things to do was even overwhelming to me. I do love it but it would be a lengthy project to make. Maybe sometime I might tackle it when I have more time. God Bless!
Hey Juanita,
Thanks for the feedback. Since every project varies in length, I assign the difficulty based on the skills needed to complete it instead of the time needed to complete. In this case, those skills are quite accessible and thoroughly explained in the video tutorial.
Of course, some less experienced crocheters (and some more advanced) will seek smaller projects, but for those who want the satisfaction of making a garment, I think this one can be appropriate for most levels.
Happy crocheting!
Jess
I really love your pattern! Beautiful outcome! 🙂 I’ve shared it on my own blog, linking back here of course, as I know a lot of my crochet beginner viewers would love to see this pattern!
Hey Sarah,
Thank you so much for sharing my pattern! I really appreciate it.
Jess
Jess, would you use this recommended yarn for the Habitat Cardigan, too? Thanks!
I am blown away by your creativity, girl.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!
Jeane
Kent Island, MD
I purchase the up north crochet sweater. Tryong to see the video having trouble with pattern.
Hey Angelina,
The video is right above the written pattern in the blog post above. If you’re having trouble viewing it, it could be because you’re using an ad-blocker? If that’s the case, you turning your ad-blocker off will solve the issue! 🙂
Jess
Having trouble were to put markers.
Hey Angelina,
It depends on the size you’re making. So you’ll count from the right side of the cardigan edge toward the middle to place the first marker. Then count from the right side of the cardigan edge again to place the second marker. Then you’ll repeat that process, but count from the left edge of the cardigan for both the first and second marker.
Does that make sense?
Jess
Hi Jess,
Beautiful crocheted cardigan design. I am asking for information regarding division on the back and fronts. How many stitch are there from the first marker to the second marker? It is a break where the sleeve is sew. Is it thirteen stitch? I do not know if this is understandable, I do not know English well.
Dominika
Hey Dominika,
It depends on the size you’re making. So you’ll count from the right side of the cardigan edge toward the middle to place the first marker. Then count from the right side of the cardigan edge again to place the second marker. Then you’ll repeat that process, but count from the left edge of the cardigan. Depending on the side you’re making, there will be about 10-15 stitches left in the space for each arm hole. I hope that makes sense!
Jess
I’m making the size small and have completed the 39 beginning rows but it says that it should end on RS however my row 39 ends on the WS. Do I remove a row? This is for my mother and she is short so if removing a row effects the length of the sweater then it shouldn’t really be a problem but I just wanted to make sure since this is only my second garment having just made a cardigan for my grandson.
Thank you!
Hmm, that might be because of which foundation option you chose? In any case, since she’s on the shorter side, I’d just remove a row. 🙂
Jess
Well, I think I confused myself because my row 39 did end on RS so I think all is good, lol. Hopefully I don’t confuse myself anymore 😁.
Sorry for the bother!
Lesley
I just finishedy up north cardigan and i love it. I is the first garment i ever crocheted. I love it. I made mine mostly baby blue trimmed in white. Thank you Much
I LOVE hearing that, Pam! Welcome to the wonderful world of crocheting garments!
Jess
I have 1719 yards of number 4 cotton would that be enough to make th>s sweater in a medium size
hey Jess I have 1719 yard of number 4 cotton will that be enough to make the sweater in a medium size
I cannot find the written instructions for the collar.
They’re in part 2 of the pattern here.
Jess
Hello I did buy the pattern but I’m not sure I received all the information properly I did get to rows 39 without too much trouble but for the arm holes it not very clear to me I’m having a difficult time decreeing your wording if you have a more incitful pattern plz share it. Or update to this one
Thank you
Hey Gaby,
Is there a certain aspect I can help you with? The PDF (and the free patterns) should contain all the info you need. 🙂
Jess
Do you think this sweater would work for a man? I really want to make a sweater for myself, but don’t wanna look stupid! LOL
Haha, yeah, I actually think this one is a pretty good unisex option!
Jess
hi Jess I have about 1700 yards of cotton thread would this be enough do you think to make a medium size cardigan
I love this pattern it’s really quick and easy and it looks great with this yarn. I’m just wondering if you made any mock-ups of the plus sizes because I’m in the middle of doing the sleeves and they just seem enormous!
On the sleeves it says for s & m 49 rows( before starting the V shape) But all other sizes end in an even row. When doing it i end with row 48 being an increase row having 54 stitches. Do i do one more row?
I have a question on sizing. It says above that the model is 5’5″ model with a 32″ bust and the sweater seems to fit her perfectly, but it doesn’t specifically say which size she’s wearing. Is she modeling the size small?
Yes, she’s wearing the small. I’m sorry, I’ll add that to the description!
Jess
Hi Jess,
Are you aware you have discrepancies between your pattern on here and the PDF that I purchased and printed out. The discrepancies are where you place the markers when Dividing for Back and Fronts. I am doing the sweater as a large. The pattern on here says to place the stitch markers on the first set at the 24th & 25th stitch and at the 41st & 42nd stitch on the second set. The back will have 56 stitches. But the PDF has them at stitches 26-27 and 43-44 and the back with 58 stitches. The math of course does not work out on the PDF with the 138 stitches left after the decrease rows. Placing the markers according to the PDF only gives me 52 stitches for the back. I was curious to see if the pattern was the same on here and if there were any comments about the stitch count being off. Math works for the marker placement on here though. Just not on the PDF.
Hi Jess,
I remarked above about the marker placement in the stitches. I went through the rest of the pattern and compared the pattern on here and the PDF. The marker placements are again different for the decrease rounds on the “Main Body of Sweater” but you still end up with the correct amount of stitches when you get to the Dividing Back and Fronts.
Hi I love this pattern. It’s my first garment and I’m proud of what I’ve got so far. So, I am now at the place markers section for the front and back parts (4 markers). I placed at 24 and 25 1st set. Then 41 and 42 second. Well when I went to crochet the first front panel to the st itch before marker on the 24th I only ended with 23 half doubles. So anyway I moved the marker over one. Is this ok? Confused honestly.
Hmm. I’m not quite sure why that would be, but I don’t think it’ll have a big impact on the overall look of the sweater, so I’d just roll with it. 🙂
Jess
I am in the process of making this sweater and have almost completed the front/back section. In the video you go to the collar but there are no written directions for the collar or pockets to know how many rows/stitches for each size of sweater. I was reading along on the pattern written above, but it seems to have skipped the collar section and talked about the sleeves. Are you only able to get that if you pay for the pdf version.
Hey Shawna,
You can find the second half of the pattern here, which contains all those details. 🙂
Jess
I couldn’t get my search to be 4×4 until I used an I hook. Should I proceed with that or will it look different than your example?
Go ahead with whatever size hook you need to achieve the pattern gauge! 🙂
Jess