Pullover Crochet V Neck Sweater – Free Pattern

Creative construction and simple stitches come together easily in this pullover crochet v neck sweater pattern. Find the free pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here.

Thanks to Lion Brand Yarns for supplying the yarn for this easy crochet pullover sweater pattern. This post contains affiliate links.

Jump to:

• Simple V-Neck Crochet Sweater
• Why You’ll Love This Bottom Up Sweater
• A Rustic Yarn That’s Perfect for Autumn
• Skills Needed for a V-Neck Sweater
• Free SubLime V-Neck SweaterCrochet Pattern
• Conclusion
• That was so fun! Now what?
• Invitation to our Facebook group

Today Emilia from Coffee and Crocheting is here with her free v-neck crochet sweater pattern! You can see lots of of Emilia’s crochet patterns her blog, Coffee and Crocheting. And be sure to check her out on social media too: Facebook, Instagram and Pinterest. Emilia, take it away!

Simple V-Neck Crochet Sweater

Whatever colors you choose you will have fun mixing them in this easy V-neck sweater. The pattern guides you through when to change the colors and worked bottom up it is an easy sweater to make also for the beginner.

Made in the lemon peel stitch, this crocheted pullover has great texture and is fun and fast. The lemon peel stitch is a mix between single crochets and double crochets, making it accessible and easy.

Why You’ll Love This Bottom Up Sweater

V-neck sweaters are one of my favorite types of garments, and I’ve been dreaming of designing this sweater for a long time. This sweater is perfect to use both at home or out and about.

Lounge in it on the couch, or take a nice walk in the park.

My pattern testers for this sweater are all busy moms and have explained this sweater as the perfect mom sweater! Put on jeans and sneakers, and you’re ready for a day at the playground.

Make it in a size larger to get that extra oversized fit! This sweater has a simple construction.

It is crocheted in three pieces: one body piece and two sleeves. In the end, you’ll only have to sew the sides and add a neckline.

RELATED: Don’t leave your pup out of the handmade cardigan fun! Crochet a dog sweater for small, medium and large pups

Related: More easy, free crochet sweater patterns ⇨

A Rustic Yarn That’s Perfect for Autumn

The SubLime Sweater uses Lion Brand LB Collection Merino Yak Alpaca Yarn. It is a merino wool yarn mixed with yak and alpaca, giving it a rustic look and a lovely feel and warmth.

I’ve never worked with Lion Brand Yarns before but knew at once when the yarn arrived that it would be perfect for this sweater. The drape and texture of the yarn is perfect for the lemon peel stitch and make it a very light sweater that is warm and cozy.

Skills Needed for a V-Neck Sweater

Skills required are single crochet, double crochet, half double crochet, increases, decreases, and changing colors.

Since the lemon peel stitch is only a mix between single crochet and double crochets that are repeated, it is a beginner-friendly stitch.

The pullover uses this stitch through all parts of it except for the neckband and you can sit back and relax and enjoy the interesting texture this stitch creates.

Since it is the same stitch and repeated through most of the sweater it is easy for a beginner to pick it up and learn.

The neckline and sleeves are slightly tricker including increases and decreases in the end of the rows, but the pattern instructs you how to get back on track with the lemon peel stitch. 

New to making garments? Check out our step-by-step guide to crocheting your first sweater.

Pin It! click to pin this pattern for later ⇨

More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns

Crochet sweater patterns don’t need to be difficult. In fact, most of ours are made with very simple shapes. Dive into the wonderful world of crochet garments with cardigans, pullovers, ponchos, shrugs and more!

See more free crochet sweater patterns →

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Free SubLime V-Neck Sweater
Crochet Pattern

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here.

Add this pattern to your Ravelry here.

Pin this pattern for later here.

Explanation: If you’re on the hunt for that perfect autumn sweater – look no more. The SubLime Sweater is a fun quick autumn sweater that mixes texture with color and brings you all that autumn feelings!

Pick your colors by matching the trees outside or do as my pattern testers did and make a candy corn version, match your favorite hockey team’s colors or try Harry Potter colors. (Why not!?) The mix of colors and options make it a sweater that is unique to you and your preferences.

Supplies:

• Lion Brand LB Collection Merino Yak Alpaca (Weight: 4/Medium – 126 Yds, 1.75 oz)
– Color A – Taupe (#498-122) – 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3) balls
– Color B – Sage (#498-177) – 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) balls
– Color C – Oatmeal (#498-123) – 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) balls
– Color D – Mustard (#498-158) – 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5) balls
• U.S X (4.5 mm) crochet hook (or the one needed to obtain gauge)
• Yarn needle
• Stitch markers

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Sizes/Measurements:

• This pattern is written in six sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)

• Body / Bust 33.5″ (37.4″, 41.3″, 45.3″, 49.2″, 53.1″)

• The measurement above are the measurement of the final garment size. Your own measurements should be at least 2″ smaller. Positive ease.

• Arms / Sleeves (at the widest): 12.2” (13.4”, 14.2”, 16.1”, 17.3”, 18.1”)

• Body length: 21.3” (22”, 22.8”, 23.6”, 24.4”, 25.2”)

Gauge:

• 4”x4”: 12.5 sts lemon peel stitch in 12 rows using 4.5 mm (7) hook (see below how to check gauge)

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):

ch = chain
sts = stitches
hdc = half double crochet
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
FLO = front loop only
sl st = slip stitch
2tog = crochet 2 stitches together
yo = yarn over
ss = same stitch
sm = stitch marker

Overall Pattern Notes:

• The SubLime Sweater is worked in 3 pieces: one body piece and 2 sleeves which will be sewn together in the end.

• The pattern is written in US terms.

• This is a garment, making it crucial to meet gauge to not get a sweater that is either too big or too small. Change hook size or crochet looser or tighter to get the correct gauge.

• Chains do not count as stitches. Stitch count can be found in parentheses after each row: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL) sts.

• Lemon Peel stitch: *dc, sc* repeat *-* across row, ch 2. Turn. On the next row continue repeating *dc, sc* across row making sure to place the dc in the sc from previous row and sc in dc from previous row. (Since you turned this will be like this automatically). This does not apply in the beginning of next row after decreases and increases, place the sc and dc as instructed by pattern.

• The sweater in the pictures has the colors as follows:
Color 1: Taupe
Color 2: Sage
Color 3: Oatmeal
Color 4: Mustard

Gauge Check

Chain 20.

Row 1: Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook. Sc in next sts. *dc, sc* repeat *-* across row. Ch 2. Turn.

Row 2: *dc, sc* repeat *-* across row making sure to place the first dc in the sc you ended with on the previous row. Ch 2. Turn.

Row 3: Repeat row 2 until your swatch is 4″ high.

Count how many rows you get in 4″ high (should be equal or close to 12 rows). Measure how many sts you have across row for 4″ (measure in the middle to avoid the edges). You should have 12.5 sts across, that means that 4″ mark is in the middle of the 13th sts.

Body

Back:

Ch 56 (62, 68, 74, 80, 86)

Row 1: Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook. Sc in next sts. *dc, sc* repeat *-* across row. Ch 2. Turn. 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84) sts

Row 2: *dc, sc* repeat *-* across row making sure to place the first dc in the sc you ended with on the previous row. Ch 2. Turn. 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84) sts

Row 3 – Row 60 (62, 66, 70, 72, 74): Repeat row 2. Change colors as below. Do not fasten off after row 60 (62, 66, 70, 72, 74).

Colors for Back:

XS S M L XL 2XL
Color 1 – Row: 1-5 / 1-6 / 1-6 / 1-7 / 1-7 / 1-7
Color 2 – Row: 6-13 / 7-14 / 7-15 / 8-16 / 8-16 / 8-16
Color 3 – Row: 14-18 / 15-20 / 16-21 / 17-23 / 17-23 / 17-23
Color 4 – Row: 19-34 / 21-36 / 22-38 / 24-40 / 24-40 / 24-41
Color 2 – Row: 35-52 / 37-54 / 39-56 / 41-59 / 41-60 / 42-62
Color 1 – Row: 53-57 / 55-59 / 57-62 / 60-66 / 61-67 / 63-69
Color 3 – Row: 58-60 / 60-62 / 63-66 / 67-70 / 68-72 / 70-74

To change color: chain the 2 chains in the end of the row with the new color. I.e. if you change color on row 6, chain with the new color in end of row 5.

Now you will separate for the shoulders and V-neck. Continue from row 60 (62, 66, 70, 72, 74).

First Shoulder:

Colors for shoulder and front:

XS S M L XL 2XL
Color 3 – Row: 1-7 / 1-7 / 1-8 / 1-8 / 1-9 / 1-9
Color 1 – Row: 8-12 / 8-12 / 9-14 / 9-15 / 10-16 / 10-16
Color 2 – Row: 13-30 / 13-30 / 15-32 / 16-34 / 17-36 / 17-37
Color 4 – Row: 31-46 / 31-46 / 33-49 / 35-51 / 37-53 / 38-55
Color 3 – Row: 47-51 / 47-52 / 50-55 / 52-58 / 54-60 / 56-62
Color 2 – Row: 52-59 / 53-60 / 56-64 / 59-67 / 61-69 / 63-71
Color 1 – Row: 60-64 / 61-66 / 65-70 / 68-74 / 70-76 / 72-78

Row 1: Continue to work in color 3. Put a sm in the 19 (21, 23, 27, 29, 31) st from each edge. Continue on the side you have your yarn. *dc, sc* across until 1 st before first sm. Sc2tog with st that has a sm. Ch 2. Turn. 18 (20, 22, 26, 28, 30) sts

Row 2: Sc2tog. *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 17 (19, 21, 25, 27, 29) sts

Row 3: *dc, sc* across, ending with a dc. Ch 2. Turn. 17 (19, 21, 25, 27, 29) sts

Row 4: 2 sc in ss. *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 18 (20, 22, 26, 28, 30) sts

Row 5: *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 18 (20, 22, 26, 28, 30) sts

Row 6: 2 dc in ss, sc. *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 19 (21, 23, 27, 29, 31) sts

Row 7: *dc, sc* across until final st. 2 dc in ss. Ch 2. Turn. 20 (22, 24, 28, 30, 32) sts

Row 8: *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 20 (22, 24, 28, 30, 32) sts

Row 9: *dc, sc* across until final st. 2 sc in ss. Ch 2. Turn. 21 (23, 25, 29, 31, 33) sts

Row 10: 2 sc in ss. *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 22 (24, 26, 30, 32, 34) sts

Row 11: *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 22 (24, 26, 30, 32, 34) sts

Row 12: 2 dc in ss, sc. *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 23 (25, 27, 31, 33, 35) sts

Row 13: *dc, sc* across, ending with a dc. Ch 2. Turn. 23 (25, 27, 31, 33, 35) sts

Row 14: 2 sc in ss. *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 24 (26, 28, 32, 34, 36) sts

Row 15: *dc, sc* across until final st. 2 sc in ss. Ch 2. Turn. 25 (27, 29, 33, 35, 37) sts

Row 16: sc, *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 25 (27, 29, 33, 35, 37) sts

Row 17: *dc, sc* across until final st. 2 dc in ss. Ch 2. Turn. 26 (28, 30, 34, 36, 38) sts

Row 18: *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 26 (28, 30, 34, 36, 38) sts

Row 19: *dc, sc* across until final st, add an additional sc in the final st. Ch 2. Turn. 27 (29, 31, 35, 37, 39) sts Size XS: Do not fasten off. Leave this side for now and continue with the 2nd shoulder.

Row 20: 2 sc in ss. *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. x (30, 32, 36, 38, 40) sts Size S: Do not fasten off. Leave this side for now and continue with the 2nd shoulder.

Row 21 Size M and 2XL: *dc, sc* across until final st. 2 sc in ss. Ch 2. Turn. x (x, 33, x, x, 41 sts)
Size M: Fasten off.

Row 21 Size L- XL: *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. x (x, x, 36, 38, x) sts Size L: Fasten off.

Row 22: 2 sc in ss, sc, *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. x (x, x, x, 39, 42) sts Size XL: Do not fasten off. Leave this side for now and continue with the 2nd shoulder.

Row 23: *dc, sc* across. x (x, x, x, x, 42) sts Fasten off.

Second Shoulder:

Row 1: Attach your yarn in the st with the 2nd sm. Sc2tog. *sc, dc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 18 (20, 22, 26, 28, 30) sts

Row 2: *dc, sc* until final 2 sts. Sc2tog. Ch 2. Turn. 17 (19, 21, 25, 27, 29) sts

Row 3: *sc, dc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 17 (19, 21, 25, 27, 29) sts

Row 4: *dc, sc* until final st. 2 dc in ss. Ch 2. Turn. 18 (20, 22, 26, 28, 30) sts

Row 5: *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 18 (20, 22, 26, 28, 30) sts

Row 6: *dc, sc* across until final st. 2 sc in ss. Ch 2. Turn. 19 (21, 23, 27, 29, 31) sts

Row 7: 2 sc in ss. *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 20 (22, 24, 28, 30, 32) sts

Row 8: *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 20 (22, 24, 28, 30, 32) sts

Row 9: 2 dc in ss. *sc, dc* across, ending with a sc. Ch 2. Turn. 21 (23, 25, 29, 31, 33) sts

Row 10: *dc, sc* across until final st. 2 dc in ss. Ch 2. Turn. 22 (24, 26, 30, 32, 34) sts

Row 11: *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 22 (24, 26, 30, 32, 34) sts

Row 12: *dc, sc* across until final st. 2 sc in ss. Ch 2. Turn. 23 (25, 27, 31, 33, 35) sts

Row 13: *sc, dc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 23 (25, 27, 31, 33, 35) sts

Row 14: *dc, sc* across until final st. 2 dc in ss. Ch 2. Turn. 24 (26, 28, 32, 34, 36) sts

Row 15: 2 dc in ss. *sc, dc* across, ending with a sc. Ch 2. Turn. 25 (27, 29, 33, 35, 37) sts

Row 16: *dc, sc* across, ending with a dc. Ch 2. Turn. 25 (27, 29, 33, 35, 37) sts

Row 17: 2 sc in ss. *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 26 (28, 30, 34, 36, 38) sts

Row 18: *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 26 (28, 30, 34, 36, 38) sts

Row 19: 2 dc in ss. *sc, dc* across, ending with a sc. Ch 2. Turn. 27 (29, 31, 35, 37, 39)sts Size XS: Fasten off.

Row 20: *dc, sc* across until final st. 2 dc in ss. Ch 2. Turn. x (30, 32, 36, 38, 40) sts Size S: Fasten off.

Row 21 Size M: 2 dc in ss. *sc, dc* across. Ch 2. Turn. x (x, 33, x, x, 41 sts) Size M: Do not fasten off. Use this when you continue on front section.

Row 21 Size L- XL: *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. x (x, x, 36, 38, x) sts Size L: Do not fasten off. Use this when you continue on front section.

Row 22: *dc, sc* across until final st. 2 sc in ss. Ch 2. Turn. x (x, x, x, 39, 42) sts Size XL: Fasten off.

Row 23: *dc, sc* across. x (x, x, x, x, 42) sts Do not fasten off. Use this when you continue on front section.

Front

XS, S and XL: Continue from the first shoulder.

M, L and 2XL: Continue from the second shoulder.

Row 20 (21, 22, 22, 23, 24): *dc, sc* across. Continue with lemon peel stitch (a dc or sc depending on where in the repeat you are) on the other side (second shoulder) to connect the shoulders and form the front. Sc, *dc, sc* across. Ch 2. Turn. 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84) sts

Row 21 (22, 23, 23, 24, 25): *dc, sc* across row. Ch 2. Turn. 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84) sts

Repeat row 21 (22, 23, 23, 24, 25) until you’ve reach row 64 (66, 70, 74, 76, 78) taking into account the color changes as in above table. 54 (60, 66, 72, 78, 84) sts

Sleeves

Make 2. Worked flat and then seamed together before they are attached to the sweater.

Ch 28 (28, 30, 32, 32, 34)

Row 1: Dc in the 3rd chain from the hook. Sc in next sts. *dc, sc* repeat *-* across row. Ch 2. Turn. 26 (26, 28, 30, 30, 32) sts

Row 2 – 10: *dc, sc* repeat *-* across row making sure to place the first dc in the sc you ended with on the previous row. Ch 2. Turn. 26 (26, 28, 30, 30, 32) sts

Row 11: Increase row. 2 dc in ss, 2 sc in ss, *dc, sc* across until final 2 sts, 2 dc in ss, 2 sc in ss. Ch 2. Turn. 30 (30, 32, 34, 34, 36) sts

Row 12 – Row 57*: Repeat row 2 adding increase rows (like row 11) on row numbers as in below table and changing colors as in below table:

XS S M L XL 2XL
Increases
Row number: 11 / 11 / 11 / 11 / 11 / 11
24 / 20 / 20 / 17 / 15 / 15
34 / 29 / 29 / 26 / 22 / 22
38 / 38 / 32 / 28 / 28
40 / 32 / 32
40 / 40

Color changes — same for all sizes*
Color 1 – row: 1-10
Color 2 – row: 11-17
Color 3 – row: 18-23
Color 4 – row: 24-39
Color 2 – row: 40-57

*Sleeve will be 18.5″ after 57 rows. Color changes take this into account. If you wish to make a longer or shorter sleeve you need to adjust color changes accordingly. If adding more rows I recommend adding more of color 1 or 3. If making fewer rows I recommend that you take from color 2.

Seaming

Fold the front over the back and seam the sides using the mattress stitch, leaving holes for the sleeves approximately 12.2” (13.4”, 14.2”, 16.1”, 17.3”, 18.1”). Do not fasten off yet so you can adjust the armhole later.

Fold the sleeves in half, longways, and sew the sides together using the mattress stitch. Sew your sleeves to the sweater.

Mattress stitch: sewn with right side of the garment facing out. It is done like tying a shoelace. Go under the back loop of the other side, pull tight (but not so tight that it curls the garment). Cross over to other side going under the back loop. Repeat across.

Crochet V-Neck Ribbing

Using color 4: Attach your yarn in the back of the neck using a slip knot. Ch 1. Space out hdc around the neckline, approximately 1 hdc per row. Make sure it doesn’t curl, adjust the amount of hdc if it does. In the 2 sts that form the V part, space out as hdc2tog. When you reach for first st of the round, join with a sl st. Ch 2. Turn.

Round 2: Hdc around. Join to the first hdc of the round with a sl st. Ch 1. Turn.

Round 3: Sl st FLO around. Join to the first st of the round with a sl st. Fasten off.

I suggest lightly steam blocking your sweater to relax the stitches.

Should you have any questions or comments you can reach me on instagram @coffeeandcrocheting or through e-mail: hello@coffeeandcrocheting.com

Please feel free to share your items on Instagram (or other social media) and tag @coffeeandcrocheting and hashtag #sublimesweater and #mycoffeeandcrocheting. I’d love to see your sweater!

You are allowed to sell finished items produced by this pattern (no mass production), but please give pattern credit to @coffeeandcrocheting. Please do not share, change, sell or claim this pattern as your own. Happy making!

Enjoy your completed SubLime Sweater! (Don’t forget to weave in all threads.)

Conclusion

Wow, you crocheted your own v-neck pullover sweater using just single and double crochet stitches.

Pair your new trendy sweater with jeans, or layer it over a boho dress or crochet top. Then give your hook a high five and start planning your next project.

Thanks again to Emilia from Coffee and Crocheting for sharing this free easy crochet pullover sweater pattern! Be sure to check out Emilia’s blog for lots more free modern crochet patterns!