Stylish Crochet Crew Neck Sweater – Free Pattern

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• Adult Crew Neck Pullover Sweater
• How to Crochet a Top-Down Sweater
• Video Walk Through
• Customizing Your Crew Neck Top
• The Best Sweater Yarn
• Tips for Crocheting a Pullover
• Print this Pattern
• All-in-One kit
• More Easy Top-Down Patterns
• Sonnet Yoke Sweater – Free Pattern
• Final Thoughts on the Sonnet Sweater
• That was so fun! Now what?
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• How to Crochet a Crew Neck Pullover – An Overview

Video Walk Through

If you prefer to watch instead of read, let me walk you through the Sonnet Sweater pattern and explain what to expect.

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Explanation:
Cascading bobbles and delicate crochet stitches combine to create a pretty and polished pullover. Because this seamless sweater is worked from the top down, you can try it on as you go and customize the length to suit your personal style.

Pair it with jeans or a skirt or layer it over a dress for a cozy cold-weather outfit. You’ll practice crocheting in the round, increasing, and basic yoke skills to complete this advanced beginner pattern. 

Supplies + Materials

• Lion Brand Wool-Ease (Weight: 4/Medium – 197 yds, 3.0 oz/85 g)

• Wheat (620-402) – 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10) skeins [approx. 360 (388, 442, 474, 529, 595, 682, 731, 778) g]

• Tapestry needle


• Size L (8.0 mm) crochet hook (for main sweater)

• Size K (6.5 mm) crochet hook (for ribbing)

• Stitch markers or safety pins

Measurements

Size	Fits up to actual bust	Sweater length (neckline to bottom)
XS	30”	18”
S	34”	18”
M	38”	19”
L	42”	19”
1X	46”	19”
2X	50”	21”
3X	54”	21”
4X	58”	23”
5X	62”	23”

Sample pictured is a size M on a model with a 38” bust. Sweater is intended to be worn with a slight bit of positive ease. Size up for a more relaxed look.

Overall Pattern Notes

• Sweater is worked from the top down, allowing you to try it on as you go.

• Pattern is written for smallest size, with stitch counts for larger sizes following in parentheses. XS (S, M, L, 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) It can be helpful to highlight all numbers related to your size before beginning. When only one number is given, it pertains to all sizes.

!! Gauge Check !!

Please don’t skip this step or you will risk your sweater not fitting as expected.

With larger hook:

Foundation Row: Ch 19.

Row 1 (RS): Sk 1 ch, esc each ch to end; turn. (18)

Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, esc in each st to end; turn.

Rep Row 2 twelve times. Measure center four inches of swatch vertically and horizontally. Compare to pattern gauge listed above. 

• If there are too many stitches in 4” horizontally, increase your hook size and re-swatch. 

• If there aren’t enough stitches in 4” horizontally, decrease your hook size and re-swatch.

• If swatch is measuring too small vertically, make a deliberate effort to pull loops up a bit higher before completing each single crochet. 

• If swatch is measuring too large vertically, make an effort to work the loops of each single crochet a little tighter.

• This video is incredibly helpful if you’re having trouble achieving the correct vertical gauge:

Main Sweater

Notes:

• Sweater is worked in turned rounds. Each round is joined with a slip stitch, which doesn’t count as a stitch in the stitch count given at the end of each round. 

Print it! Buy the ad-free PDF and highlight the stitch counts for your size

Yoke:

With larger hook: Ch 64 (64, 66, 66, 72, 72, 84, 84, 84), join with slst to first ch. 64 (64, 66, 66, 72, 72, 84, 84, 84) sts

Foundation Round: Ch 1, esc in each ch to end of round, join with slst to first st; turn. 64 (64, 66, 66, 72, 72, 84, 84, 84) sts

Round 2 (WS inc): Ch 1, *2 esc, pm in first esc of inc, esc in next 7 (7, 5, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) sts; rep from * around; slst to first esc of round to join; turn. 72 (72, 77, 77, 84, 84, 96, 96, 96) sts

Round 12 (WS): Ch 1, *esc in next 13 (13, 11, 11, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12) sts, bobble in next st; rep from * to end of round; turn. 126 (126, 132, 132, 154, 154, 156, 156, 159) sts

Round 13 (RS inc): Ch 1, *2 esc, esc in next 6 (6, 9, 9, 9, 9, 8, 8, 7) sts; rep from * around; slst to first esc of round to join; turn. 144 (144, 145, 145, 169, 169, 173, 173, 190) sts

Size XS only: proceed to End Yoke section.

Round 14 (WS): Rep Round 6. X (144, 145, 145, 169, 169, 173, 173, 190) sts

Round 15 (RS inc): Ch 1. Sizes 3X, 4X and 5X only: esc first 19, 19, 10 sts. All sizes: *2 esc, esc in next X (11, 6, 6, 12, 12, 6, 6, 9) sts; rep from * around and esc in any remaining sts; slst to first esc of round to join; turn. X (156, 165, 165, 182, 182, 195, 195, 208) sts

Size S only: proceed to End Yoke section.

Round 16 (WS): Ch 1, esc in next X (X, 7, 7, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts, bobble in next st, *esc in next X (X, 14, 14, 12, 12, 14, 14, 15) sts, bobble in next st; rep from * around, esc in any remaining sts; slst to first esc of round to join; turn. X (X, 165, 165, 182, 182, 195, 195, 208) sts

Size M only: proceed to End Yoke section.

Round 17 (RS inc): Ch 1, *2 esc, esc in next X (X, X, 14, 21, 21, 12, 12, 15) sts; rep from * around and esc in any remaining sts; slst to first esc of round to join; turn. X (X, X, 176, 190, 190, 210, 210, 221) sts 

Sizes L and 1X only: proceed to End Yoke section.

Round 18 (WS): Rep Round 6. X (X, X, X, X, 190, 210, 210, 221) sts

Round 19 (RS inc): Ch 1. Size 2X only: esc first 10 sts. All sizes: *2 esc, esc in next X (X, X, X, X, 8, 18, 18, 16) sts; rep from * around and esc in any remaining sts; slst to first esc of round to join; turn. X (X, X, X, X, 210, 221, 221, 234) sts 

Round 20 (WS): Ch 1, *esc in next X (X, X, X, X, 14, 16, 16, 17) sts, bobble in next st, rep from * to end of round; turn. X (X, X, X, X, 210, 221, 221, 234) sts

Size 2X only: proceed to End Yoke section.

Round 21 (RS): Ch 1, *2 esc, esc in next X (X, X, X, X, X, 55, 12, 15) sts; rep from * around and esc in any remaining sts; slst to first esc of round to join; turn. X (X, X, X, X, X, 225, 238, 248) sts

Size 3X, 4X and 5X: proceed to End Yoke section.

End Yoke:

Work 2 (1, 2, 2, 3, 1, 2, 3, 4) additional rep of Round 6. 144 (156, 165, 176, 190, 210, 225, 238, 248) sts 

All sizes: proceed to Back Extension section.

Back Extension: 

Your yoke should now have 15 (16, 18, 19, 20, 21, 23, 24, 25) rounds with a total of 144 (156, 165, 176, 190, 210, 225, 238, 248) sts. The next rows are worked over only a portion of the stitches in order to create a slight extension for the back of the sweater. (See photo at end of pattern.)

Row 1: Ch 1, esc in next 36 (41, 45, 50, 54, 59, 63, 66, 70) sts; turn. 36 (41, 45, 50, 54, 59, 63, 66, 70) sts

Row 2: Ch 1, esc in next 36 (41, 45, 50, 54, 59, 63, 66, 70) sts; turn. 36 (41, 45, 50, 54, 59, 63, 66, 70) sts

Sizes XS, L, 2X, 3X and 5X only: rep Row 2. 36 (X, X, 50, X, 59, 63, X, 70) sts

Body Set-Up: 

The next round is worked around entire yoke to divide for the sleeves and set up the body section. 

Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, esc in next 36 (41, 45, 50, 54, 59, 63, 66, 70) sts (back), skip 35 (35, 36, 36, 39, 44, 48, 50, 50) esc (sleeve #1), ch 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) (underarm #1), esc in next 38 (45, 48, 54, 58, 63, 66, 72, 78) sts (front), skip 35 (35, 36, 36, 39, 44, 48, 50, 50) esc (sleeve #2), ch 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) (underarm #2), slst to first esc of round to join; turn. 

Last round should now contain a total of 80 (92, 101, 112, 122, 132, 141, 150, 160) sts, broken down as follows:

Back: 36 (41, 45, 50, 54, 59, 63, 66, 70) esc
Sleeve #1: 35 (35, 36, 36, 39, 44, 48, 50, 50) skipped sts
Underarm #1: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) ch
Front: 38 (45, 48, 54, 58, 63, 66, 72, 78) esc
Sleeve #2: 35 (35, 36, 36, 39, 44, 48, 50, 50) skipped sts
Underarm #2: 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) ch

Round 2 (WS): Ch 1, esc in each esc and ch around, slst to first esc of round to join; turn. 

Rep Round 2, turning at the end of each round, until the Body measures 9.5 (9.5, 10, 10, 10, 11.5, 11.5, 11.5, 11.5)” from the armhole (approximately 23 (23, 27, 27, 27, 29, 29, 29, 29) total rounds). If extra length is desired, work additional repeats of Round 2 now. (Doing so will increase the yarn requirements). Do not fasten off.

Bottom Ribbing:

• Bottom ribbing is worked perpendicular to main sweater and joined as you go.
  
• Note that there is no chain 1 at the beginning of WS rows.

With smaller hook and  yarn already attached:

Foundation Row: Ch 7. 

Row 1 (RS): Sk first ch, hdc in each ch, slst to next available sweater st, slst in each of next 2 sweater sts; turn. (6)

Row 2 (WS): Hdcblo in each st; turn. (6) 

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, hdcblo in each st, slst to next available sweater st, slst in each of next 2 sweater sts; turn. (6)

Rep Rows 2 and 3 to end of sweater bottom, ending with a Row 2. This may require slip stitching only one stitch instead of two along sweater bottom on the final repeat. It’s fine to improvise here to ensure you end with a Row 2. Fasten off leaving a 15” tail for seaming.

Finishing Bottom Ribbing:

Stack final ribbing row on top ribbing Row 1. Using tapestry needle and existing yarn tail, whip stitch each corresponding stitch together. 

Sleeves

Begin with either armhole. With RS of sweater facing out, attach yarn at bottom of armhole. 

With larger hook:

Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, place 46 (44, 46, 48, 50, 57, 62, 62, 64) esc around armhole (accomplish this by working 1 esc in each esc/ch, 2 esc in the side of the stitch from the body set-up round and 6 (4, 4, 6, 4, 4, 6, 6, 4, 6) esc in back extension raw row edges), slst to first esc of round to join; turn. 44 (44, 46, 46, 50, 55, 60, 62, 62) sts

Round 2 (dec): Ch 1, esc, esc2tog, esc in each st until 3 rem, esc2tog, esc; turn. 44 (42, 44, 46, 48, 55, 60, 60, 62) sts

Round 3: Ch 1, esc in each st around; turn. 44 (42, 44, 46, 48, 55, 60, 60, 62) sts

Round 4: Ch 1, esc in each st around; turn. 44 (42, 44, 46, 48, 55, 60, 60, 62) sts

Sizes XS, S, M and L: Rep Rounds 2-4 10 times. 

Sizes 1X, 2X, 3X, 4X and 5X: Rep Rounds 2 and 3 (5, 6, 9, 12, 12) times, then rep Rounds 2-4 (6, 7, 6, 4, 4) times.

When these repeats are complete sleeve should contain 34 (34, 34, 34, 32, 37, 40, 40, 40) rounds and 24 (22, 24, 26, 26, 29, 30, 28, 30) stitches.

All Sizes: Rep Round 3 6 (7, 7, 8, 10, 7, 4, 5, 5) more times for a total of 40 (41, 41, 42, 42, 44, 44, 45, 45) rounds. For a longer or shorter sleeve, adjust this number, being sure to end with a RS round. (Ribbing will add additional 2.5” to sleeve length.)

Sleeve Ribbing:

• Just as with main sweater, ribbing is worked perpendicular to sleeve and joined as you go.
  
• Note that there is no chain 1 at the beginning of WS rows.

With smaller hook and yarn already attached:

Foundation Row: Ch 10. 

Row 1 (RS): Sk first ch, hdc in each ch, slst to next available sweater st, slst in each of next 2 sleeve sts; turn. (9)

Row 2 (WS): Hdcblo in each st; turn. (9) 

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, hdcblo in each st, slst to next available sleeve st, slst in each of next 2 sweater sts; turn. (9)

Rep Rows 2 and 3 to end of sleeve edge, ending with a Row 2. This may require slip stitching only one stitch instead of two along sweater bottom on the final repeat. It’s fine to improvise here to ensure you end with a Row 2. Fasten off leaving a 15” tail for seaming.

Finishing Sleeve Ribbing:

Stack final ribbing row on top ribbing Row 1. Using tapestry needle and existing yarn tail, whip stitch each corresponding stitch together. 

Repeat sleeve process on second armhole. 

Finishing Crew Neckline:

With right side facing and smaller hook, attach yarn anywhere on neckline. 

Neckline Border (RS): Ch 1, rsc in first st and in each st around neckline, join with slst to first rsc. Fasten off. 

Weave in remaining ends. Steam block sweater if desired, taking care not to actually touch steamer/iron to yarn.

Toss on your new sweater to be-bop-bobble your way to a fantastic handmade outfit!

Final Thoughts on the Sonnet Sweater

Congrats, you’ve just added another piece to your handmade wardrobe! Whether you pair your new crewneck pullover with skirts or pajama pants, take pride knowing you made it yourself.