Believe it or not, two simple granny hexagons are the foundation of this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern. Part 1 of the free pattern is below, Part 2 is available here and Part 3 is here. You can also purchase the complete ad-free, printable PDF here.
Like building a campfire in the middle of a June thunderstorm, designing this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern did not come easily. I tore parts of it out so many times I thought the yarn might evaporate in my hands. (I’m pretty sure my husband doesn’t want to have any more conversations about the width of sweater stripes for a while.)
But alas, I’m so happy with the result! And most importantly, I think YOU will be able to make this modern cardigan really easily! The construction of this crochet hexagon sweater is what makes it so fun. Can you spot the two granny hexagons?
I know, right!? It’s like a magic trick! You crochet them and then–poof!–they just disappear into the coziest little lightweight sweater you’ve ever worn. Since we’re in on the business of making cool crochet things together though, let me pull back the curtain for you.
The two simple granny hexagons are what form the chest and shoulders of the sweater. Once they’re seamed in the back and shoulders, you’ll add rows of granny stitch lengthen the sweater in Part 2. You’ll also add longer sleeves, again with basic granny stitch (and some decreases if you’d like). Lastly in Part 3, you’ll pop a basic rectangular hood on the top to make your crochet hexagon sweater extra comfy and work a simple border around all the sweater edges.
Sounds pretty doable, doesn’t it? It is! I really love crochet patterns that look complex, but are actually made from creating simple shapes with basic techniques. (Check out my free Urban Gypsy Boho Bag pattern if you do too! And this chunky crochet hexagon sweater pattern is what originally inspired the idea for my version.)
If you’ve never crocheted a sweater before, the “Campfire Cardigan” would be a great pattern to start with. It’s also VERY customizable if you enjoy tweaking patterns to suite your body. I’ve included notes in each section on how you can take simple steps to adjust the pattern to your liking.
The yarn I used for this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern is from Lion Brand and it’s called New Basic 175. It’s lightweight and soft and I love how it resembles roving yarn. Plus, how great are these colors? Unfortunately, New Basic has been discontinued since I first designed this sweater. Lion Brand Heartland, Red Heart Colorscapes and Premiere Yarns Aurora serve as good substitutes.
RELATED: We love making garments so much, we even designed a crochet dog sweater for large, medium and small dogs!
If you’d like to peruse the entire pattern before you get started, you can check out Part 2 (here!) and Part 3 (here!) (Or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF of the complete pattern here on LoveCrafts.com or here on Etsy if you can’t wait that long! 😉 )
And as an overview, here’s a quick peek at the process of making the Campfire Cardigan from start to finish. I hope you enjoy this pattern!
More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns
Crochet sweater patterns don’t need to be difficult. In fact, most of ours are made with very simple shapes. Dive into the wonderful world of crochet garments with cardigans, pullovers, ponchos, shrugs and more!
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Purchase a kit that includes all the yarn necessary to make your own Campfire Cardigan, plus a printed copy of the pattern here.
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back to this post. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales photos. You can read my policies here. Now let’s make something awesome!
“The Campfire Cardigan”
Free Crochet Hexagon Sweater Pattern
Part 1
Sizes:
Fits actual bust measurements:
S/M: 32-38″
M/L: 40-46″
L/XL: 48-54″
Measurements of Finished Sweater (when laying flat):
S/M: Length: 28.5”, Chest Width: 17.5”, Arm Length: 21”, but easily customized
M/L: Length: 30”, Chest Width: 20.5”, Arm Length: 22”, but easily customized (see “overall pattern notes” below for more details on this size)
L/XL: Length: 30”, Chest Width: 23.5”, Arm Length: 22”, but easily customized (see “overall pattern notes” below for more details on this size)
Sample pictured is a size S/M.
Supplies:
• Lion Brand New Basic 175* (Weight: 4/medium – 175 yds, 3.5 oz)
– Color A: Café Au Lait – 3 (4, 4) balls
– Color B: Juniper – 1 (2, 2) balls
– Color C: Thyme – 2 (3, 3) balls
– Color D: Camel – 2 (3, 3) balls
• Tapestry needle
• Size L (8 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins
*This yarn has been discontinued. Lion Brand Heartland, Red Heart Colorscapes and Premiere Yarns Aurora serve as good substitutes.
Gauge:
• 3 granny clusters + 3 spaces = 4”, slightly less than 6 rows = 4” worked in double crochet granny pattern
Abbreviations and Glossary (US terms):
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
tch – turning chain
yo – yarn over
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
cluster – 3 dc stitches in same sp
rep – repeat
sp – space
ch1sp – the space created by chaining 1 in the previous row/round
ch3sp – the space created by chaining 3 in the previous row/round
Explanation:
Two simple granny hexagons are the foundation of this modern crochet cardigan. You’ll work two identical hexagons first and seam them to make the chest and shoulders of the sweater. Next you’ll add length with rows of granny stitch, two sleeves and a rectangular hood. Lastly, you’ll finish off the sweater with a border.
Overall Pattern Notes:
• Pattern includes sizes S/M, M/L and L/XL, but you can easily adjust the size of this cardigan to suite your body. To make a smaller sweater, crochet smaller hexagons. To make a larger sweater, crochet larger hexagons. Notes are given throughout on further customizations. Stitch counts at the end of each round are for sizes (S/M, M/L, L/XL).
• When crocheting larger hexagons for the larger sizes, the arm holes will also become larger. Some readers making the M/L or L/XL size have expressed that they’d prefer narrower sleeves. A Make & Do Crew reader, Laura, had a great suggestion to create extra space in the chest/back area without increasing the sleeve circumference:
Work a hexagon as outlined for the S/M size. Then on one side of the hexagon, work additional rows in the granny stitch back and forth to make that single side deeper than the rest. Repeat for the second hexagon. These two deeper sides will be what you seam for the back seam of the cardigan. (For an idea of how to add the extra rows, simply follow the “cardigan bottom” details for adding rows in Part 2 of the pattern.)
After seaming the back and shoulders as the pattern describes, add length to the bottom as the pattern outlines in Part 2. At this point, add additional rows vertically to the front of both sides of the cardigan in order to give it more coverage over your hips, stomach and chest. From here, you can proceed with the pattern as written and work the sleeves as described for the S/M size. I hope this idea is helpful for those wishing to customize their cardigan even further!
• When working in the round, sl st into the third ch from the beginning of the round to join.
• Ch 3 at beginning of round/row counts as 1 dc throughout pattern.
•The colors per round/row are simply a suggestion. Don’t be afraid to customize your cardigan as you wish! (Just keep in mind this may affect the yardage needed of each color.)
Hexagons
Notes:
• Hexagons are worked in the round with RS facing at all times. Do not turn work at end of round.
• Hexagons will not lie flat and instead be wavy. This is intentional and should not be considered a mistake in your crocheting.
• Corner spaces will always be comprised of 3 ch. Spaces along the sides of the hexagon will be made with 1 ch.
• When switching colors for a new round, there is no need to work the final 3 sl st of the round before your fasten off. Simply sl st to join the round and fasten off. When beginning a new round in the same color as the last round though, you’ll work the 3 sl st at the end of the round in order to get into the next ch3sp.
Make 2.
Foundation Round: Using color A, Ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in ring, ch 1, (3 dc in ring, ch 1) 5 times, sl st to join. (1 cluster/side)
Round 2: 3 sl st into next ch1sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in first ch1sp, ch 1, [(3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc, ch 1) all in next ch1sp] 5 times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch3sp. (2 clusters/side)
Round 3: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in first ch3sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch1sp, ch 1, *(3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) all in next ch3sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch1sp, ch 1; repeat from * 4 more times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch3sp. (3 clusters/side)
Round 4: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in first ch3sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to corner, *(3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) all in next ch3sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to corner; repeat from * 4 more times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch3sp. (4 clusters/side)
Round 5: Rep Round 4. (5 clusters/side)
Round 6: Rep Round 4. (6 clusters/side)
Round 7: Rep Round 4. (7 clusters/side)
Size S/M: Fasten off.
Sizes M/L and L/XL: Continue with next two rounds.
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (8 clusters/side)
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (9 clusters/side)
Size M/L: Fasten off.
Size L/XL: Continue with next two rounds.
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (10 clusters/side)
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (11 clusters/side)
Size L/XL: Fasten off.
All Sizes: Attach Color B in any corner ch3sp.
Round 8: Using Color B, rep Round 4. (8, 10, 12 clusters per side)
Round 9: Using Color B, rep Round 4. (9, 11, 13 clusters per side)
Fasten off.
Attach Color C in any corner ch3sp.
Round 10: Using Color C, rep Round 4. (10, 12, 14 clusters per side)
Round 11: Using Color C, rep Round 4. (11, 13, 15 clusters per side)
Round 12: Using Color C, rep Round 4. (12, 14, 16 clusters per side)
Fasten off.
Attach Color D in any corner ch3sp.
Round 13: Using Color D, rep Round 4. (13, 15, 17 clusters per side)
Fasten off.
Seaming Hexagons
Bring opposite corners of hexagon (the 3rd and 6th corner, for example) together to fold the hexagon into an “L” shape with the RS facing out. Repeat with second hexagon.
Orient folded hexagons with long sides touching as in photo above. Using safety pins or stitch markers, pin back seam of hexagons as well as the top sleeve seems. This is a great time to try your cardigan on to see if you like how it’s fitting around your back and shoulders. Customize the fit by adding or remove rounds as desired.
Using a tapestry needle and a doubled-over length of Color D, sew back seam using the mattress stitch. (Moogly has a great mattress stitch tutorial.)
Sew both seams on the top of the sleeves using the same technique.
Now you’re ready for Part 2 where you’ll add some length to the bottom and sleeves to the armholes.
That was so fun! Now what?
Invitation to our Facebook group
Come discuss crocheting hexagon cardigan patterns and lots of other projects and techniques in our Make & Do Crew Facebook group. Here thousands of helpful crocheters answer each others questions and share their stitches. Come join us here.
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Jackie says
Hello, I am making this sweater for a friend. I was having trouble with the extension and I noticed several others hae had the same issue. The stitches don’t add up right o the extentsion. I then paid for the pattern thinking it would make more sense. I saw somewhere that the stitches were corrected. I thought I saw it also, but now I can’t find where I saw it. Can you please tell me what they are. Row 1 is 45 spaces and I have that correct, but after that I don’t get 95 sts. I can’t just go with it and see if it will be ok, I am one who needs it to be right.
I appreciate it if you can help.
Thank you
Carrie says
I want to make my daughter a campfire cardigan. She is six, growing out of size 6 and into size 7-8 soon. I want to make her a campfire cardigan in a girls size 7. How do I do that?
Shirley says
How did you do the tapered sleeve on the sweater you are wearing? This is a gorgeous sweater! Can’t wait to try it but wanted to make sure how to taper sleeves as I love how the one your wearing looks. Thank you so much for sharing this beautiful pattern!
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Shirley,
In this one I’m wearing, I made the smallest size and then followed the “taper sleeve” instructions in order to decrease a bit as the sleeve progressed. If you’re interested in making a larger size with tapered sleeves, checking out the note in the pattern about a Make & Do Crew reader’s idea would be really helpful. 🙂
Jess
Heather says
Hello there! I’ve just downloaded two of your cardigan patters. I’m excited to try them. My question is, in the photos are you wearing one in which you tapered the sleeves or were these the regular sleeves? Also is that a s/m you are wearing? I’m trying to get s feel for how large the sleeves will be and if I need to taper or use the other option suggested by the other user by adding rows along the joined sides. Thanks!
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Heather,
In the photos I’m wearing the S/M with the tapered sleeve option. 🙂
Happy crocheting!
Jess
Mery says
I love the campfire cardigan, but i am fairly new at crochet and need a tutorial, so do you have any idea when you will put one out?
Jennifer says
I love this pattern and will be trying it in the next week or so. Roughly how long did this take you to make?
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
My best guess is about a week and a half, working on it for an hour to two or three hours a day. 🙂
Brittany says
I’ve been staying away from cardigans and sweaters because they look really hard, this one is pretty easy so far. Thanks for the pattern!
nysia says
Not sure if this was mentioned, but when I made the Large/ex large version of your sweater, the only change in the pattern was to increase the number of rounds for the first color.
I recommend spreading the increased number of rounds over all your color choices or at least the first two, as I was left with an unbalanced look with way to much of color A. It sits unfinished now as I am deciding whether to frog it all and start over.
Yolanda Hernandez-Madsen says
Sue Can the ends of the sleeves be gathered by a tie of sorts? Would that look ok?
Jamie Burns says
I’m having a hard time with the sleeves. Where do you end for the head?
I Feel like of I follow all the way across I’m going.to stitch the front ends together and then it’s not left open?
If I stitch one arm at a time do I leave any part of the back undone?
I’m going crazy! LoL
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
You seam the entire top shoulder edges (so the complete hexagon sides). There is enough room for your neck in the gap that’s left in the front. 🙂
Sonya says
Maybe someone could correct the pattern instructions on the websites that this pattern has been posted? I was on Row 8, when I started questioning “3 sl st into next ch3sp”. Now I have to rip it all out and start over. 🙁
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Sonya,
I’m sorry you’re having trouble. I’m not sure exactly what you mean by “correct the pattern instructions on the websites that this pattern has been posted.” If you’d like to explain more, I’d be happy to try to help.
Jess
Sue Pado says
Hi there. You helped me before and I’m hoping you can help me again. I made the sweater in a large and the woman is now complaining that the sleeves are too wide. I have sewn the whole sweater together and can’t figure out a way to taper the sleeves more without having a big seam on the idea. I can’t really take the whole sweater apart since I’ve woven in all the lose ends, etc. I am so upset with this woman because I was doing it to be nice and it’s been nothing but problems. Do you have any magic tips to make the sleeves smaller even when the sweater is already all sewn together? I broke down and cried earlier!! Thanks so much..
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Oh, Sue. That sounds so frustrating. I know how hard it can be to convey to someone else that you’re not just a magic yarn machine.
I’m sorry that I don’t have any specific tips to help, although I wonder if you just tore out several inches of the sleeve if you could add a cuff similar to this sweater to sort of tighten things up near the wrists?