The Campfire Cardigan Part 2 - Free Crochet Sweater Pattern

In Part 2 of this free crochet sweater pattern, we'll learn how to lengthen the bottom of your "Campfire Cardigan" and add sleeves. You can also check out Part 1 and Part 3 of the free pattern or purchase the complete ad-free, printable PDF of the pattern here.

This easy crochet hexagon sweater is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarn. This post contains affiliate links.

Are you feeling good about how your hexagons came together in Part 1 of the Campfire Cardigan pattern? Even just as a little shrug, I bet your sweater is already looking pretty cute!

(I was tempted to just stop with my design at this point, but I forged ahead because I was really committed to having a free crochet sweater pattern that would keep your arms warm on summer evenings. I'm thinking a hexagon shrug would be a great future design though. If you think so too, feel free to let me know in the comments!)

Okay, so in Part 2 of this free crochet sweater pattern, you'll really have a chance to start customizing your cardigan to fit your body. I know that could sound scary, but in this case it's really very doable! First, we'll add rows of granny stitch to the bottom of the cardigan to make it the length you like.

Next, you'll have two choices of types of sleeves to create. The sleeve pictured in the sample includes some decreases, which give it a modern taper. With decreasing in granny stitch though, I found that there was a little puckering that made the sleeve just slightly bumpy looking. As you can see in the photo below, it's really minimal, especially when you're wearing it. If you'd prefer a super smooth sleeve though, you can work the non-tapered sleeve option which will result in a wider, more boho style sleeve.

RELATED: Don't leave out your furry friends - easy crochet dog sweater pattern for large dogs (and small dogs too!)

Later this week in Part 3 of the Campfire Cardigan, we'll add the hood and a border to finish things off.

Thanks to Lion Brand Yarn for sponsoring this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern and enabling more free patterns on Make and Do Crew! Purchase a kit that includes all the yarn necessary to make your own Campfire Cardigan, plus a printed copy of the pattern here.

Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back to this post. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales photos. ­­You can read my policies here. Now let’s make something awesome!

More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns

Crochet sweater patterns don't need to be difficult. In fact, most of ours are made with very simple shapes. Dive into the wonderful world of crochet garments with cardigans, pullovers, ponchos, shrugs and more!

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"The Campfire Cardigan"
Free Crochet Sweater Pattern
Part 2

Purchase the complete ad-free, printable PDF here on LoveCrafts.com or here on Etsy.

Add this pattern to your Ravelry favorites here.

Pin this pattern for later here.

View Part 1 of the pattern here.

Sizes: (Measurements when laying flat)
S/M: Length: 28.5”, Chest Width: 17.5”, Arm Length: 21”, but easily customized
M/L: Length: 30”, Chest Width: 20.5”, Arm Length: 22”, but easily customized
L/XL: Length: 30”, Chest Width: 23.5”, Arm Length: 22”, but easily customized
Sample pictured is a size S/M.

Supplies:
Purchase a kit with all the yarn necessary plus a printed copy of the pattern here!
• Lion Brand New Basic 175 (Weight: 4/medium - 175 yds, 3.5 oz)
- Color A: Café Au Lait – 3 (4, 4) balls
- Color B: Juniper – 1 (2, 2) balls
- Color C: Thyme – 2 (3, 3) balls
- Color D: Camel – 2 (3, 3) balls
• Tapestry needle
• Size L (8 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins

Gauge:
• 3 granny clusters + 3 spaces = 4”, slightly less than 6 rows = 4” worked in double crochet granny pattern

Abbreviations and Glossary (US terms):
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
tch – turning chain
yo – yarn over
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
cluster – 3 dc stitches in same sp
rep – repeat
sp – space
ch1sp – the space created by chaining 1 in the previous row/round
ch3sp – the space created by chaining 3 in the previous row/round

View Part 1 of the pattern to make the hexagon base and seam the arm holes.

Cardigan Bottom

Notes:
• When working Row 1, back seam where hexagons meet counts as 1 granny cluster. (So work 3 dc into the ch1sp on either side of the seam, chaining 1 in between.)

• To switch colors at the end of a row, use the color of the upcoming row to complete the final yo of the row you’re finishing. Fasten off previous color. Proceed with new color in the next row. See photo below from the Logan House Wrap pattern for a visual explanation.

With RS of sweater facing, attach Color A at what will be the bottom, front left corner. Left-handed crocheters: Attach Color at bottom, front right corner. 

All sizes:
Row 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in first sp, (3 dc, ch 1) in each sp until end of row; turn. (28, 32, 36 clusters)

Row 2: Ch 4, (3 dc, ch 1) in each sp until no spaces remain, end with 1 dc in tch; turn. (Switch to Color D in final dc as described above.) (27, 31, 35 clusters)

Row 3: Using Color D, rep Row 1. (Switch to Color B in final dc as described above.)

Row 4: Using Color B, rep Row 2.

Row 5: Using Color B, rep Row 1. (Switch to Color D in final dc as described above.)

Row 6: Using Color D, rep Row 2. (Switch to Color A in final dc as described above.)

Row 7: Using Color A, rep Row 1.

Row 8: Using Color A, rep Row 2. (Switch to Color D in final dc as described above.)

Row 9: Using Color D, rep Row 1. (Switch to Color C in final dc as described above.)

Row 10: Using Color C, rep Row 2.

Row 11: Using Color C, rep Row 1.

Row 12: Using Color C, rep Row 2. (Switch to Color D in final dc as described above.)

Row 13: Using Color D, rep Row 1.

Row 14: Using Color D, rep Row 2. (Switch to Color A in final dc as described above.)

Row 15: Using Color A, rep Row 1.

Row 16: Using Color A, rep Row 2. (Switch to Color B in final dc as described above.)

Row 17: Using Color B, rep Row 1. (Size M/L, L/XL: switch to Color A in final dc as described above.)

Size S/M: Try on cardigan to evaluate if you like the length. Fasten off or work Rows 18-19 if desired.

Sizes M/L and L/XL: Continue with next two rows.

Row 18: Using Color A, rep Row 2.

Row 19: Using Color B, rep Row 1. 

All sizes: Fasten off.

Sleeves

Notes:
• Again, this section is easily customizable to fit your arms. Work fewer rows for shorter sleeves or more rows for longer sleeves.

• When working Round 1, top of sleeve seam where hexagons meet counts as 1 granny cluster. (So work 3 dc into each ch1sp on either side of the seam, chaining 1 in between.)

• Two sleeve options are included:
-The non-tapered sleeve option does not include decreases. Therefore, the wrist opening will be as wide as the current arm opening on your sweater. This creates a more “70’s” style sleeve.

-Alternatively, you can create a more traditional sleeve shape by working the tapered sleeve option (pictured in the sample and in the photo below). Because of the nature of decreasing in granny stitch, this sleeve might have small bunches where the decreases take place, although they are not very visible once the sweater is being worn.

Tapered Sleeve Option

Notes:
• On decrease rounds, the first 3 ch and dc, plus the last dc of the round equal one total cluster. Because the cluster is a bit spaced out, it can be easily mistaken as ch1sps. Be sure not to accidentally work a 3 dc cluster into these gaps. See photo below for a more detailed explanation of working a granny stitch decrease on the sleeves.

• Decreases are spread evenly between the top, sides and bottom of the sleeve to minimize any bunching.

Lay sweater flat so seam is at top of sleeve. Attach Color A in the middle dc of a cluster that’s at the bottom side of the sleeve, directly opposite the sleeve seam.

All sizes:
Round 1 (decrease): Using Color A, ch 3, 1 dc in next sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each sp until 1 sp remains in round, 1 dc in last sp, sl st to third ch from beginning of round to join, 2 sl st to end of cluster. (1 sp decreased)

Round 2: Using Color A, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each sp until end of round, sl st to join, 1 sl st into next dc.

Fasten off.

Attach Color D in any sp along underside of sleeve.

Round 3: Using Color D, rep Round 2.

Fasten off.

Attach Color C in the middle dc of a cluster at the top of the sleeve.

Round 4: Using Color C, rep Round 1. (1 sp decreased)

Round 5: Using Color C, rep Round 2.

Round 6: Using Color C, rep Round 2.

Fasten off.

Attach Color D in the middle dc of a cluster at the back side of sleeve.

Round 7: Using Color D, rep Round 1. (1 sp decreased)

Fasten off.

Attach Color B in any sp along underside of sleeve.

Round 8: Using Color B, rep Round 2.

Round 9: Using Color B, rep Round 2.

Fasten off.

Attach Color D in the middle dc of a cluster at the front side of sleeve.

Round 10: Using Color D, rep Round 1. (1 sp decreased)

Fasten off.

Attach Color A in any sp along underside of sleeve.

Rounds 11-12: Using Color A, rep Round 2.

Work Round 13 according to the size you’re making.

(S/M) Round 13: Using Color A, rep Round 2.

(M/L and L/XL) Round 13: Using Color A, rep Round 1. (1 sp decreased)

All sizes continue with sleeve as follows:

Fasten off Color A.

Attach Color D in any sp along underside of sleeve.

Round 14: Using Color D, rep Round 2.

Fasten off.

Attach Color C in any sp along underside of sleeve.

Rounds 15-17: Using Color C, rep Round 2.

Sizes M/L and L/XL: Work additional repeats of Round 2 to lengthen sleeves if desired.

Fasten off.

All sizes: Attach Color D in any dc along underside of sleeve.

Round 18: Ch 1, sc in each dc, sl st to first sc to join. (Do not work ch1sps.)

Round 19: Ch 1, sc in each sc, sl st to first sc to join.

Fasten off.

Non-tapered Sleeve Option

Lay sweater flat so seam is at top of sleeve. Attach Color A in any space that’s at the bottom side of the sleeve, directly opposite the sleeve seam.

Work Rounds 1-19 using the colors specified for each round in the “tapered sleeve” section.

All sizes:

Rounds 1-17: Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each sp until end of round, sl st to join, 1 sl st into next sp.

Sizes M/L and L/XL: Work additional repeats of Round 2 to lengthen sleeves if desired.

Round 18: Ch 1, sc in each dc, sl st to first sc to join. (Do not work ch1sps.)

Round 19: Ch 1, sc in each sc, sl st to first sc to join.

Congrats! You're ready to move onto Part 3 of "The Campfire Cardigan!" 

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