This easy cardigan pattern uses half double crochet stitches to create an beautiful texture with little effort.
The free Thicket Cardigan pattern and tutorial is below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF.
This free crochet cardigan pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.
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Thicket Cardigan - Free Crochet Pattern
Meet a sweater that puts a fresh spin on a classic stitch. The Thicket Cardigan uses a half double crochet variation on granny stitch to create a solid, less mesh-y fabric that feels modern and wearable.
The construction is quick and requires no seaming, making it great for cruise-control crocheting. You can also adjust the length as you go for a fit that works for you.
Skill Level
This is an advanced beginner pattern. It's appropriate for your first garment project if you feel fairly confident reading patterns. Here are the skills you'll practice:
- basic stitches and stitch combos
- working flat
- measuring gauge
- basic decreasing
- ribbing
- pattern reading
All-in-One Crochet Kit
The all-in-one kit is a perfect way to make your Thicket Cardigan. This bundle from Lion Brand includes all the Color Theory yarn you'll need, plus a bonus printable PDF of the pattern (delivered digitally).
Print this Pattern
Prefer to crochet without ads? You'll love the premium PDF! The instantly downloadable, ad-free file is formatted for easy printing and includes the complete written pattern and lots of photos.
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Yarn Needed
Order an all-in-one kit from Lion Brand.
• Lion Brand Color Theory (Weight 4/Medium - 246 yds, 3.5 oz, 100 g)
- Raisin (619 - 144U – 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9) skeins [(approx. 480 (540, 580, 605, 640, 700, 765, 810) g)]
Notes are provided throughout for extending the sweater length, as pictured in the purple version (Color: Provence [619-152AI]). Recreating this look requires about 20% more yarn than the amount listed above for the cropped cardigan.
Additional Supplies
• Tapestry needle
• Size J (6.0 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook or one size smaller than hook used to meet gauge
• Stitch markers
• (3) 1” Buttons + needle and thread to attach buttons
Cardigan Measurements
Choose your pattern size based on your actual bust measurement.
| Size | Fits Actual Bust** | Sweater Length* | Chest Width* |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS/S | 31” | 18” | 18.5” |
| S/M | 35” | 19” | 20.5” |
| M/L | 39” | 19” | 22.5” |
| L/1X | 43” | 19” | 24.5” |
| 1X/2X | 47” | 19” | 26.5” |
| 2X/3X | 51” | 19” | 28.5” |
| 3X/4X | 55” | 20” | 30.5” |
| 4X/5X | 59” | 20” | 32.5” |
Gauge
4 half double crochet clusters + 4 spaces = 4”
10 Rows worked in half double crochet clusters = 4”
Abbreviations + Glossary (US Terms)
ch – chain
chsp – chain space
hdc – half double crochet
hdc cluster – three half double crochet stitches worked in one stitch/space
hdc2tog – half double crochet two together
PM – place marker
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
scblo – single crochet through the back loop only
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
tch – turning chain
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over
Special Stitches
Hdc2tog – half double crochet two together: yo, insert hook in the designated space, yo and pull through loop (3 loops on hook), insert hook in next space, yo and pull through loop (4 loops on hook) , yo and pull through all 4 loops. You may find this YouTube video helpful:
Print This Pattern: purchase the ad-free, printable PDF
Overall Pattern Notes
- If you’re new to reading crochet patterns, check out more info.
- Instructions are written with the stitch count for the smallest size first and each larger size following in parentheses, for example: XS/S (S/M, M/L, L/1X, 1X/2X, 2X/3X, 3X/4X and 4X/5X). It can be very helpful to highlight the numbers for your size before beginning the project. When only one number is given, it pertains to all sizes.
- Stitch counts at the end of each round are for given sizes.
- Chain 2 counts as stitch throughout.
- The collar ribbing is made using the same hook as the body of the cardigan. The sleeve and bottom ribbing are crocheted using a smaller hook.
!! Gauge Check !!
Please don’t skip this step, or you will risk your cardigan not fitting as expected. To check gauge, with larger hook:
Foundation Row: Ch 29.
Row 1 (WS): Sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end of row; turn. (28 sts)
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Row 2 (RS): Ch 2, *sk next 2 sts, 3 hdc in next st, rep from * until 3 sts remain, sk 2 sts, hdc in last st; turn. (8 hdc clusters, 2 hdc)
Row 3 (WS): Ch 2, 2 hdc in sp between first hdc and next hdc cluster, *3 hdc in sp between next two hdc clusters, rep from * to last sp, 2 hdc in last sp, hdc in top of tch; turn. (9 hdc clusters)
Row 4 (RS): Ch 2, sk first cluster, hdc cluster in sp between first and second hdc clusters, *hdc cluster in sp between next two hdc clusters, rep from * until one cluster remains, sk 2 hdc, hdc in top of tch; turn. (8 hdc clusters, 2 hdc)
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 ten more times for a total of 24 rows.
Measure center four inches of swatch vertically and horizontally . Compare to the pattern gauge listed above.
- If there are too many stitches in 4” horizontally, increase your hook size and re-swatch.
- If there aren’t enough stitches in 4” horizontally, decrease your hook size and re-swatch.
- If swatch is measuring too small vertically, make a deliberate effort to pull loops up a bit higher before completing each half double crochet.
- If swatch is measuring too large vertically, make an effort to work the loops of each half double crochet a little tighter.
- This video is incredibly helpful if you’re having trouble achieving the correct vertical gauge:
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Bottom Ribbing
| 🧶 For a longer sweater: Consider working longer bottom ribbing. The purple sweater pictured uses 21 chain stitches to create a ribbing of 20 stitches along the bottom edge. NOTE: Making length adjustments will affect the amount of yarn needed to complete your project. |
With smaller hook:
Foundation Row: Ch 16.
Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end of row; turn. (15 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, scblo in each st to end of row; turn.
Repeat Row 2 [112 (128, 144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224)] more times. Ribbing should contain a total of 114 (130, 146, 162, 178, 194, 210, 226) rows, which can be easily counted as 57 (65, 73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 113) visible ridges. Piece should measure approximately 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58)”. Do not fasten off.
Main Body of Sweater
Turn ribbing horizontally and work across long edge.
With attached yarn and larger hook:
Row 1 (WS):
XS/S: Ch 1, sc in each of first 8 ribbing row ends, *sk one row end, sc in next 5 ribbing row ends, rep from * 16 more times, sc to end of row; turn. (97 sts)
S/M: Ch 1, sc in each of first 4 ribbing row ends, *sk one row end, sc in next 5 ribbing row ends, rep from * 20 more times; turn. (109 sts)
M/L: Ch 1, sc in each of first 7 ribbing row ends, *sk one row end, sc in next 4 ribbing row ends, sk one row end, sc in next 5 ribbing row ends, rep from * 11 more times; sk 1, sc to end of row; turn. (121 sts)
L/1X: Ch 1, sc in each of first 3 ribbing row ends, *sk one row end, sc in next 4 ribbing row ends, sk one row end, sc in next 5 ribbing row ends, rep from * 13 more times, sk 1, sc to end of row; turn. (133 sts)
1X/2X: Ch 1, sc in each of first 8 ribbing row ends, *sk one row end, sc in next 4 ribbing row ends, rep from * 32 more times, sc to end of row; turn. (145 sts)
2X/3X: Ch 1, sc in each of first 6 ribbing row ends, *sk one row end, sc in next 4 ribbing row ends, rep from * 36 more times, sc to end of row; turn. (157 sts)
3X/4X: Ch 1, sc in each of first 5 ribbing row ends, *sk one row end, sc in next 4 ribbing row ends, rep from * 40 more times; turn. (169 sts)
4X/5X: Ch 1, sc in each of first 3 ribbing row ends, *sk one row end, sc in next 4 ribbing row ends, rep from * 43 more times, sk 1, sc to end of row; turn. (181 sts)
Row 2 (RS): Ch 2, *sk next 2 sts, 3 hdc in next st, rep from * until 3 sts remain, sk 2 sts, hdc in last st; turn. (31 (35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59) hdc clusters + 2 hdc)
Row 3 (WS): Ch 2, 2 hdc in sp between first hdc and next hdc cluster, *3 hdc in sp between next two hdc clusters, rep from * to last sp, 2 hdc in last sp, hdc in top of tch; turn. (32 (34, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60) hdc clusters)
Row 4 (RS): Ch 2, sk first cluster, hdc cluster in sp between first and second hdcclusters, * hdc cluster in sp between next two hdc clusters, rep from * until one clusterremains, sk 2 hdc, hdc in top of tch; turn. (31 (35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59) hdc clusters + 2hdc)
Repeat Rows 3 and 4 [10 (10, 10, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8)] more times. Then repeat Row 3 oncemore. Main body should contain a total of 24 (24, 24, 22, 22, 22, 22, 22) cluster rows.
| 🧶 For a more cropped sweater: Eliminate rows in the above section, making sure to end with a Row 3. 🧶 For a longer sweater: Work additional rows in the above section, making sure to end with a Row 3. Purple sweater pictured includes 6 additional rows. NOTE: Making length adjustments will affect the amount of yarn needed to complete your project. |
Dividing for Fronts and Back
Right Front: PM in sp after cluster 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12) from right front edge.
Underarm: Counting toward the center of the sweater, sk next 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4) clusters from first marker and PM in next sp.
Left Front: PM in sp after cluster 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12) from left front edge.
Underarm: Counting toward the center of the sweater, sk next 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4) clusters and PM in next sp.
Back: There should be four markers placed with 16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28) hdc clusters remaining between the middle two markers.
Right Front
(Left-Handed: Left Front)
The rows of the Front panel are worked only between the sweater edge and the first marker.
With RS facing, using attached yarn and continuing with larger hook:
Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, sk first cluster, hdc cluster in sp between first and second hdc clusters, *hdc cluster in sp between next two hdc clusters, rep from * until one cluster remains, sk 2 hdc, hdc in top of 3rd hdc; turn. (5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 12) hdc clusters + 2 hdc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, 2 hdc in sp between first hdc and next hdc cluster, *3 hdc in sp between next two hdc clusters, rep from * to last sp, 2 hdc in last sp, hdc in top of tch; turn. (6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12) hdc clusters)
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 [6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10)] more times.
Repeat Row 1 [1 (1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 0, 1)] more times.
Front panel should contain a total of 15 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23) rows. Fasten off leaving a 20” tail for seaming shoulders. Do not remove markers.
Back
The rows of the Back panel are worked only between the two middle markers. With RS facing and continuing with larger hook, attach yarn in second marked space (closest to Front panel that was just worked):
Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, sk first cluster, hdc cluster in sp between first and second hdc clusters, * hdc cluster in sp between next two hdc clusters, rep from * until one cluster remains before next marker, sk 2 hdc, hdc in top of 3rd hdc; turn. (15 (17, 19, 21, 23, 23, 25, 26) hdc clusters + 2 hdc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, 2 hdc in sp between first hdc and next hdc cluster, *3 hdc in sp between next two hdc clusters, rep from * to last sp, 2 hdc in last sp, hdc in top of tch; turn. (16 (18, 20, 22, 24, 24, 26, 28) hdc clusters)
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 [6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10)] more times.
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Back panel should contain a total of 15 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23) rows. Do not remove markers.
Left Front
(Left-Handed: Right Front)
The rows of the second Front panel are worked only between the sweater edge and the first marker.
With RS facing, and continuing with larger hook, attach yarn at final marked space (closest to the back panel):
Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, sk first cluster, hdc cluster in sp between first and second hdc clusters, * hdc cluster in sp between next two hdc clusters, rep from * until one cluster remains, sk 2 hdc, hdc in top of tch; turn. (5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 12) hdc clusters + 2 hdc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, 2 hdc in sp between first hdc and next hdc cluster, *3 hdc in sp between next two hdc clusters, rep from * to last sp, 2 hdc in last sp, hdc in top of tch; turn. (6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12) hdc clusters)
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 [6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10)] more times.
Repeat Row 1 [1 (1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 0, 1)] more times.
Front panel should contain a total of 15 (17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23) rows. Fasten off leaving a 20” tail for seaming shoulders. Do not remove markers.
Joining Shoulders:
With RS facing, align front and back shoulders being careful to line up clusters on the front and back. Using larger hook and existing yarn tails, slip stitch to join both Front panels to the Back panel.
Sleeves
Sleeves are worked directly into armholes using turned rounds.
Follow the instructions below for each sleeve.
With WS facing, attach yarn in sp between the two underarm clusters.
Right-handed crocheters: Work Foundation Round clockwise around armhole.
Left-handed crocheters: Work Foundation Round counterclockwise around armhole.
Sleeve Foundation Round (WS):
XS/S and M/L: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 3 hdc, sc in marked sp, place 1 sc each row end to shoulder seam, sc in shoulder seam, sc in each row end to next marker, sc in marked sp, sc in each of next 3 hdc, join with slst to first sc; turn. (39, 45 sc)
S/M: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 3 hdc, sc in marked sp, place 1 sc each row end to shoulder seam, sk shoulder seam, sc in each row end to next marker, sc in marked sp, sc in each of next 3 hdc, join with slst to first sc; turn. (42 sc)
L/1X: Ch 1, sc in same sp as join, sc in each of the next 3 hdc, sc in marked sp, place 1 sc each row end to shoulder seam, sc in shoulder seam, sc in each row end to next marker, sc in marked sp, sc in each of next 3 hdc, join with slst to first sc; turn. (48 sc)
1X/2X: Ch 1, sc in first hdc, 2 sc in next hdc, sc in last hdc, sc in marked sp, place 1 sc each row end to shoulder seam, sc in shoulder seam, sc in each row end to next marker, sc in marked sp, sc in first hdc, 2 sc in next hdc, sc in last hdc, join with slst to first sc; turn. (51 sc)
2X/3X: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 hdc, place 1 sc each row end to shoulder seam, sk shoulder seam, sc in each row end to next marker, sc in each of next 6 hdc, join with slst to first sc; turn. (54 sc)
3X/4X: Ch 1, sc in same sp as join, sc in each of the next 6 hdc, sc in marked sp, place 1 sc each row end to shoulder seam, sc in shoulder seam, sc in each row end to next marker, sc in marked sp, sc in each of next 6 hdc, join with slst to first sc; turn. (60 sc)
4X/5X: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 2 hdc, 2 sc in next hdc, sc in each of the next 3 hdc, sc in marked sp, place 1 sc each row end to shoulder seam, sc in shoulder seam, sc in each row end to next marker, sc in marked st, sc in each of next 3 hdc, 2 sc in next hdc, sc in last 2 hdc, join with slst to first sc; turn. (63 sc)
Sleeve Continued:
Round 1 (RS): Ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, *sk 2 sts, 3 hdc in next st, rep from * until 2 sts remain, sk last 2 sts, join with slst to top of ch 2; turn. (13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21) hdc clusters)
Round 2 (WS): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first sp, * hdc cluster in sp between next 2 hdc clusters, rep from * to end of round, join with slst to top of tch; turn.
Repeat Round 2 [12 (12, 12, 10, 10, 8, 6, 4)] more times for a total of 14 (14, 14, 12, 12, 10, 8, 6) rounds (not including Foundation Round).
In order to keep the sleeves symmetrical, decreases alternate between front and back of sleeve. To help keep track of rounds, use a removable stitch marker to mark decrease rounds.
Round 1 (RS dec): Ch 2, hdc2tog over next 2 sps, hdc in same sp (one sp decreased), *hdc cluster in sp between next two hdc clusters, rep from * to end of round, join with slst to top of tch. (12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 20) hdc clusters)
Repeat Round 2: 10 (10, 10, 8, 8, 6, 6, 6) times for a total of 25 (25, 25, 21, 21, 17, 15, 13) rounds.
Round 2 (WS dec): Repeat Decrease Round 1. (11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19) hdc clusters)
Repeat Round 2: 8 (8, 8, 6, 6, 4, 4, 4) times for a total of 34 (34, 34, 28, 28, 22, 20, 18) rounds.
Round 3 (RS dec): Repeat Decrease Round 1. (10 (11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17, 18) hdc clusters)
Repeat Round 2: 6 (6, 6, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) times for a total of 41 (41, 41, 33, 33, 27, 25, 23) rounds.
Round 4 (WS dec): Repeat Decrease Round 1. (9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17) hdc clusters)
Repeat Round 2: 9 (7, 5, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) times for a total of 51 (49, 47, 38, 38, 32, 30, 28) rounds.
Sizes XS/S, S/M, M/L: Proceed to Final Decrease Round.
All other sizes continue:
Round 5 (RS dec): Repeat Decrease Round 1. (x (x, x, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16) hdc clusters
Repeat Round 2: x (x, x, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times for a total of x (x, x, 41, 41, 35, 33, 31) rounds.
Round 6 (WS dec): Repeat Decrease Round 1. (x (x, x, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15) hdc clusters
Repeat Round 2: x (x, x, 3, 1, 2, 2, 2) times for a total of x (x, x, 45, 43, 38, 36, 34) rounds.
Size L/1X, 2X/3X: Proceed to Final Decrease Round.
All other sizes continue:
Round 7 (RS dec): Repeat Decrease Round 1. (x (x, x, x, x, 11, 13, 14) hdc clusters
Repeat Round 2: x (x, x, x, x, 2, 2, 2) times for a total of x (x, x, x, x, 41, 39, 37) rounds.
Round 8 (WS dec): Repeat Decrease Round 1. (x (x, x, x, x, 10, 12, 13) hdc clusters
Repeat Round 2: x (x, x, x, x, 3, 3, 3) times for a total of x (x, x, x, x, 45, 43, 41) rounds.
Final Decrease Round (WS dec):
XS/S (1X/2X, 3X/4X): Ch 1, *sc in each of the next 3 hdc, sc2tog, rep from * to last 2 (3, 1) st(s), sc 2 (3, 1), join with slst to first sc; turn. (22 (27, 29) sc)
S/M (M/L, 4X/5X): Ch 1, *sc in each of the next 2 hdc, sc2tog, rep from * to last 2 (1, 3) st(s), sc 2 (1, 3), join with slst to first sc; turn. (23 (25, 30) sc)
L/1X: Ch 1, *sc in each of the next 5 hdc, sc2tog, rep from * to last 2 sts, sc 2, join with slst to first sc; turn. (26 sc)
2X/3X: Ch 1, *sc in each of the next 13 hdc, sc2tog, rep from *, join with slst to first sc; turn. (28 sc)
Sleeve Cuff Ribbing
- Ribbing is worked in rows perpendicular to sleeve edge. It is attached as it’s created by slip stitching to sleeve edge.
- Each single crochet is worked through the back loop only (blo) of the stitch in the previous row. On even rows only (those heading away from the sleeve), the last stitch of the row is worked through both loops.
- Pay attention to the RS/WS designation of row as it will help clarify which side of sweater is facing in each row.
- If shorter ribbing is desired, consider modifying Foundation Chain length to 7 ch. (This will create a bottom ribbing of 6 sts tall.)
With attached yarn and smaller hook:
Foundation Row: Ch 11.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end of row, slst in next 2 sts along sleeve edge; turn. (10 sts)
Row 2 (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk both slst along sleeve edge, sc in the blo of each st until 1 st remains, sc through both loops of the last st; turn.
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, sc though blo of each st to sleeve edge, slst to next 2 unworked sleeve sts; turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 around sleeve opening, ending on a WS row. This may require slip stitching only one stitch instead of two along sleeve on the final repeat. It’s fine to improvise here to ensure you end with a WS row. This will position the yarn at the end of the sleeve cuff. Do not fasten off.
Joining Cuff:
Turn sleeve inside out so WS is facing. Line up first and last rows of ribbing, with last row facing you. Slst through each stitch to close cuff, working through the outer loop of last row and one loop of foundation chain for each stitch. Fasten off at end of seam.
Repeat instructions for second sleeve.
Collar Ribbing
Even though the rest of the ribbing is done with smaller hook, larger hook is used for collar ribbing to prevent puckering of Front panels
As written, collar ribbing includes four buttonholes. If buttons aren’t desired, replace these rows with a Row 1 instead.
Right-handed crocheters: Attach yarn in bottom right corner of bottom ribbing.
Left-handed crocheters: Attach yarn in bottom left corner of bottom ribbing.
Foundation Row (WS): Ch 1, scblo in each st of bottom ribbing edge, *1 sc in each of next four row ends, 2 sc in next row end, rep from * around sweater fronts and back of neck to bottom ribbing of opposite side, scblo in each st of bottom ribbing edge; turn.
(Note: the stitch count of the above row is unimportant. What matters is that the single crochets are worked at a frequency that allows the front collar edge to lie flat and not pucker or curl. Adjust stitch frequency as necessary for your personal tension.)
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each st to end of row; turn.
Repeat Row 1 five more times for a total of 6 rows.
At this point, consider trying on cardigan to evaluate the ribbing width. If a wider ribbing is desired, add additional rows before moving onto the buttonhole row. (The six remaining buttonhole rows will add approx 1.5” to the ribbing width.) Make sure to end on an even (WS) row.
Row 7 (RS buttonhole row): Ch 1, scblo in first four sts, *ch 2, sk 2 sts, scblo in next 8 sts, rep from * twice more (3 buttonholes made), scblo in each st to end of row; turn.
Row 8 (WS): Ch 1, scblo in each st to ch2sp, sc in each ch of buttonhole, *scblo in each of next 8 sts, sc in each ch of buttonhole, rep from * two more times, scblo in each st to end of row; turn.
Row 9-12: Repeat Row 1.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing
Weave in remaining ends: Learn more here.
Blocking: Once all ends are woven in, you may do a light steam blocking using either a steamer, an iron with steam setting or a spray bottle with water. Focus on any areas that aren’t laying as flat as you’d like, such as the sleeve decreases or front collar ribbing. Do not touch steamer or iron directly to yarn. Detailed info here.
Adding Buttons: Using thread that matches button color, sew buttons in place opposite buttonholes.
Throw on your Thicket Cardigan and show off your easygoing layer you just stitched up from scratch.
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