Easy C2C Crochet Cardigan Pattern Made From Rectangles

Overall Pattern Notes

• Download the free c2c crochet Arrowlight Cardigan graph patterns here. You’ll want to follow along with these as you work.
  
• All c2c graphs are worked using a double crochet stitch. 

• Pattern is written for smallest size with larger sizes following in parenthesis. XS/S (M/L, 1X/2X, 3X/4X). When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

• As in any c2c rectangle or square, all rows in pattern begin with either increasing or decreasing. This pattern refers to “increasing” as adding one tile per row. The first half of any square or rectangle involves increasing at the beginning of each row. 

• Once you have finished longest row in graph, each row will begin by “decreasing.” A decrease row eliminates one tile from each row, thereby creating a flat edge on the side of the decrease.

!! Gauge !!

Please don’t skip this step or you will risk your cardigan not fitting as expected.

To check gauge, with color A and larger hook:

Make a c2c crochet square with 12 tiles on each side. Measure six middle tiles in each direction and average the result to check gauge. Compare to pattern gauge listed above. 

• If there aren’t enough tiles in 4”, decrease your hook size and re-swatch.

• If there are too many tiles in 4”, increase your hook size and re-swatch.

Print The Entire Pattern: purchase the ad-free, printable PDF

Main Sweater Pieces

With larger hook, follow graph patterns (download here) for your size to crochet:

• One (1) Left Back Panel
• One (1) Right Back Panel
• Two (2) Front Panels
• Two (2) Sleeve Panels

When completing each panel, fasten off leaving a 24” yarn tail to use for seaming.

Here’s the approximate measurements of each panel when gauge is met:

Size	Backs	Fronts	Sleeves
XS/S	10 x 16.5”	6.5 x 16.5”	13 x 16”
M/L	12.5 x 17.5”	8.5 x 17.5”	14.5 x 15”
1X/2X	14.5 x 18”	11 x 18”	18 x 14”
3X/4X	17 x 18”	13 x 18”	20 x 13”

Assembling Sweater

All seaming is completed with RS of panels together and WS facing out. Use a tapestry needle and existing Color A yarn tails wherever possible. Seaming can be completed with the mattress stitch or preferred joining method.

Panels should be pinned together using stitch markers before joining. Take care to line up tiles on each piece when pinning to create the most invisible join. Consult diagram at end of pattern for guidance on orientation of each panel. 

1. Seaming Back Panels

Align right and left side (as worn) back panels so the accent lines for an upward arrow. Using Color A, seam panels together along long edge (center back).

2. Seaming Shoulders:

Align right side (as worn) front and back pieces at shoulders. Seam along entire top of right front panel.

Repeat on left side. 

3. Seaming Sides of Sweater:

Align right  front and right back (as worn) at side seams. Pin together, leaving last 9 (10, 12.5, 14) tiles unseamed for the armhole. Seam from sweater bottom to stitch marker at armhole.

Repeat on left side seam of sweater.

4. Seaming Front and Back of Sleeve:

Fold sleeve rectangle in half as pictured at end of pattern. This will require folding R/L sleeves differently. Begin seaming at wrist (stripe end of rectangle). At end of seam, consider leaving yarn attached and needle threaded so you can easily continue onto armhole join.

Repeat for second sleeve, folding the opposite side of fabric in so that stripes are a reflection of first sleeve.

5. Seaming Sleeves to Armholes:

Align side seam of sweater to sleeve seam making sure that the most visible sleeve stripes are facing the front of sweater.

Crease sleeve in half and place a stitch marker in the top center stitch to align with shoulder seam.

Pin into place with stitch marker at side seam and shoulder seam. Pin the rest of the sleeve in place. J

oin using existing yarn tail from sleeve seam or a separate strand of yarn, if necessary. 

Repeat with second sleeve. 

Bottom Ribbing

• Ribbing is worked in rows perpendicular to bottom edge and attached using a join-as-you-go method. Check out this tutorial on adding ribbing if this technique is new to you

• Each single crochet is worked through the back loop only (blo) of the stitch in the previous row. On even rows only (those heading away from sweater), the last stitch of the row is worked through both the back loop and the middle loop.

• Pay attention to the RS/WS designation of row as it will help clarify which side of sweater is facing in each row. 

With smaller hook: 

Right handed crocheters: Attach Color A at bottom front corner of right side as worn.

Left handed crocheters: Attach Color B at bottom front corner of left side as worn.

Foundation Row (WS): Ch 1, sc in same sp, *ch 2, skip 1 tile, sc in sp between next two tiles, repeat from * working one sc between tiles and in each seam across bottom sweater edge, sc in last corner st; turn.

Ribbing Set Up Row (RS): Ch 1, sc in corner st,  *2 sc in next ch2p, skip sc, rep from * until last sc, sc in last corner st. Keep yarn attached to begin working ribbing.

Foundation Row: Ch 12.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end of row, slst in next 3 unworked sts of Ribbing Set Up Row; turn. (11 sts)

🧶Customizing Waistline: The degree to which the ribbing hugs the waistline depends on the number of slip stitches worked when attaching ribbing to the bottom edge of the sweater. The more slip stitches used, the more cinched in the ribbing will be.  As written, you’ll alternate using two slip stitches (Row 3) with three slip stitches (Row 5).  If you prefer the bottom ribbing to be looser than what’s pictured in the sample, work two slip stitches to join ribbing at end of Row 5 instead of the three slip stitches prescribed.

Row 2 (WS): (Do not ch 1) scblo in first st and each st to last sc, sc in both loops of last sc; turn. 

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each st to end of row, slst in next 2 unworked sts of Ribbing Set Up Row; turn.

Row 4 (WS): Repeat Row 2.

Row 5 (RS): Scblo in each st to end of row, slst in next 3 unworked sts ofRibbing Set Up Row; turn. 

Repeat Rows 2-5 along bottom edge of sweater, ending with WS row. This may require slip stitching a different number of stitches along Ribbing Set Up Row on the final repeat. It’s fine to improvise here to ensure you end with a WS row. This will position the yarn at the bottom of the sweater.

Do not fasten off.

Collar Ribbing

Collar Ribbing is created using the same technique as Bottom Ribbing. Please note these important differences: The use of the larger hook as well as alternating one slip stitch (Row 3) and two slip stitches (Row 5) throughout. 

Right handed crocheters: Color A yarn should be positioned corner of at lower left (as worn) front edge.

Left handed crocheters: Color A yarn should be positioned corner of at lower right (as worn) front edge.

IMPORTANT: Switch to larger hook for all collar ribbing section.

Set up Row (WS): Ch 1, sc in corner st, sk 1 tile, *sk 1 tile, ch 2, sc in sp between next 2 tiles, rep from * around entire collar edge working 1 sc in between each set of tiles and in seams, sc in last corner st; turn. 

Ribbing Set Up Row (RS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *2 sc in next ch2 sp, rep from * along collar edge until 1 sc remains, sc in last corner st. Keep yarn attached.

Foundation Row: Ch 10.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end of row, slst in next two unworked sts Ribbing Set Up Row; turn. (9 sts)

Row 2 (WS): Scbl in first st and in each st to last sc, sc through both loops of last s; turn. 

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each st to end of row, slst in next unworked st of Ribbing Set Up Row; turn. 

Row 4 (WS): Repeat Row 2.

Row 5 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each st to end of row, slst in next unworked st of Ribbing Set Up Row; turn. 

Repeat Rows 2-5 around collar. Ending with a RS/WS row does not matter. Fasten off. 

Sleeve Ribbing

Again, Sleeve Ribbing is created using the established technique. To modify the length of the cuff ribbing, add or eliminate chains in the Foundation Row.

With smaller hook: Attach Color A in sleeve seam.

Set up Row (WS): Ch 1, sc in same sp, ch 2, * sc in sp between next two tiles, ch 2, rep from * until one tile remains, join with slst to first sc; turn. 

Ribbing Set Up Row (RS): Ch 1, *2 sc in first ch2sp, and in each ch2sp around, join with slst to first sc. Keep yarn attached for ribbing.

Sizes 1X/2X and 3X/4X only – Extra Ribbing Set Up Row (RS): Do not turn, ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each sc to middle of round, sc2tog, sc in each sc to end of round, join with a slst to first sc. 

Right-handed crocheters: Ribbing is worked in perpendicular rows clockwise around sleeve.

Left-handed crocheters: Ribbing is worked in perpendicular rows counter-clockwise around sleeve.

Foundation Row: Ch 12.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end of row, slst in next 3 unworked sts of sleeve edge; turn. (11 sts)

Row 2 (WS): Scblo in first sc and each sc to last sc, sc through both loops of last sc; turn.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each st to end of row, slst in next 3 unworked sts of sleeve edge; turn.

Repeat Rows 2-3 around sleeve edge ending with a Row 2. This may require a different number of slip stitches along Ribbing Set Up Row on the final repeat. It’s fine to improvise here to ensure you end with a Row 2. This will position the yarn at the end of the sleeve cuff. Do not fasten off.

Joining Cuff:

Turn sleeve inside out. Line up first and last rows of ribbing, with last row facing you. Slip stitch through each stitch to close cuff, working through the outer loop of last row and one loop of foundation chain for each stitch. Fasten off at end of seam.

Repeat instructions for second sleeve.