Marika Swancho | A Lacy Crochet Sweater Poncho

Add an effortless, boho vibe to your wardrobe with the Marika Swacho! This crochet lace sweater poncho is perfect for layering over shirts, dresses, or tanks

The free pattern is below or purchase the printable PDF if you prefer a pattern without ads.

This pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.

Jump to:

A Wide Pullover Sweater/Poncho
The Construction
Print this Pattern
All-in-One Crochet Kit
Marika Swancho – Free Pattern
Invitation to our Facebook group

A Wide Pullover Sweater/Poncho

A batwing lace shirt made from two crescent shapes. What do we call it?!

I landed on “swacho,” because it’s a little bit of everything flowy and feminine. Think of it as a wide sweater with sleeve cuffs—or a poncho with sleeves—bringing the best of both worlds.

Easy to make and comfortable to wear, the Marika Swancho looks just as great dressed up for brunch as it does thrown on for a cozy day at home.

The Construction

First we create two identical crescent shapes by working sideways in an easy lace stitch.

After seaming the main panels together, we add very simple sleeve cuffs using a join-as-you-go ribbing method.

Lastly, we extend the length by working rounds in a flowy ripple wave stitch around the bottom of the sweater. This is an ideal place to customize your sweater because you can continue adding rounds until you’re happy with the length.

Print this Pattern

Prefer to crochet on the couch? Need a portable, printable pattern? You’ll love the premium PDF! The instantly downloadable, ad-free file is formatted for easy printing and includes the complete pattern, all the photo tutorials, and a stitch chart.

Upgrade to the Printable PDF

formatted for effortless printing and relaxing couch crocheting

Get the printable PDF

All-in-One Crochet Kit

The all-in-one kit is a perfect way to make your Marika Swancho. This bundle from Lion Brand includes all the 24/7 Cotton you’ll need, plus a bonus printable PDF of the pattern (delivered digitally).

Deliver it! Purchase an all-in-one crochet kit

Marika Swancho – Free Pattern

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF on Etsy.
Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF in our shop or on LoveCrafts.
Save this pattern to your Ravelry here.
Pin this pattern for later here.

Supplies + Materials

Order an all-in-one kit from Lion Brand here.
• Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (Weight: 4/Medium – 170 yds, 3.5 oz/100 g)

Color: Beachnut [761-123AZ] – 6 (7, 8, 9) skeins [(approx. 600 (700, 800, 900) g)]

• Tapestry needle

• Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

• Size H (5.0 mm) crochet hook or one size smaller than larger hook used

• 20 Stitch markers

Sizes / Measurements

The sample pictured is a M/L on a 5’9” model with a 40” bust. For a less “bat-wing-y” (i.e. wide) sweater, consider making a smaller size sweater. You can add more chain stitches in the foundation row of the sleeve cuff to extend the overall width of your garment if desired.

Size	Fits Actual Bust	Length	Width*
XS/S	31”-35”	15.25”	47”

M/L	39”- 43”	16.5”	51.5”

1X/2X	47”- 51”	18”	51.5”

3X/4X/5X	51” – 59”	19.25”	55.75”

* measured from sleeve cuff edge to opposite sleeve cuff edge

Gauge

3 repeats: [4 dc cluster, ch 1, dc, ch 1] = 4″

9 rows of main panel pattern (beginning and ending on a ch3 row) = 4”

Skill Level

This lace sweater is an intermediate level pattern because it requires increasing, decreasing and some counting. If you’re newer to crocheting garments, the video tutorial will be a huge help in guiding you through each step.

Abbreviations + Glossary (US Terms)

ch – chain
chsp – chain space
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
PM – place marker
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
scblo – single crochet through the back loop only
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
tch – turning chain
tr – treble crochet
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over

Special Stitches

dc2tog – double crochet two together

Yarn Over + Insert Hook: Wrap the yarn over your hook (yo). Insert your hook into the first stitch where the decrease begins.
Pull Up a Loop: Yarn over again and pull up a loop. You should now have 3 loops on your hook.
Yarn Over and Pull Through Two Loops: Yarn over and pull through the first two loops on your hook. Now, you have 2 loops remaining on the hook.
Start the Next Stitch: Yarn over again, and insert your hook into the next stitch.
Pull Up a Loop: Yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 4 loops on your hook.
Yarn Over and Pull Through Two Loops: Yarn over and pull through the first two loops on your hook. You now have 3 loops remaining.
Complete the Decrease: Yarn over one last time and pull through all 3 loops on your hook. You’ve now turned two stitches into one.

dc3tog – double crochet three together

Complete steps 1-6 as for dc2tog. You will have 3 loops on hook.
Start the Third Stitch: Yarn over again, then insert your hook into the third stitch.
Pull Up a Loop: Yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 5 loops on your hook.
Yarn Over and Pull Through Two Loops: Yarn over and pull through the first two loops on your hook. Now, you have 4 loops remaining.
Complete the Decrease: Yarn over one last time and pull through all 4 loops on your hook. You’ve now turned three stitches into one.

Wanna save this pattern?

We'll email you this so you can come back to it later!

Video Tutorial

Follow along with a step-by-step video tutorial.

Print This Pattern: purchase the ad-free, printable PDF

Overall Pattern Notes

If you’re new to reading crochet patterns, check out more info here.

Instructions are written with the stitch count for the smallest size first and each larger size following in parentheses, for example: XS/S ( M/L, 1X/2X, 3X/4X/5X). It can be very helpful to highlight the numbers for your size before beginning the project. When only one number is given, it pertains to all sizes. Stitch counts at the end of each round are for given sizes.
Chain 3 at the beginning of row counts as one double crochet throughout.

Chain 4 at the beginning of row counts as one double crochet + 1 chain space throughout.

Permissions + Copyright:
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back this post. Do NOT use our photos as your own sales photos.

!! Gauge Check !!

Please don’t skip this step or you will risk your swancho not fitting as expected.

To check gauge, with larger hook:

Foundation: Ch 41.

Row 1 (WS): Sc in second ch from hook, *ch 3, sk next 3 ch, sc in next ch**, ch 3, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, rep from * across, ending last repeat at **; turn. (11 ch3sps)

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, 4 dc in first ch3sp, *ch 1, dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch3sp, rep from * across, dc in last sc; turn. (6 dc clusters)

Row 3 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 3, sk next 4 dc**, sc in next ch1sp, ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sc in tch; turn. (11 ch3sps)

Row 4 (RS): Ch 4, *dc in next ch3sp, ch 1**, 4 dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, dc in last sc; turn. (5 dc clusters) + 2 dc at ends of row)

Row 5 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch1sp, ch 3 sk next 4 dc, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across, ch 3, sc in tch; turn. (11 ch3sps)

Repeat Rows 2-5 twice more.

Measure center four inches of swatch vertically and horizontally. Compare to pattern gauge listed above.

If there are too many stitches in 4” horizontally, increase your hook size and re-swatch.

If there aren’t enough stitches in 4” horizontally, decrease your hook size and re-swatch.

This video is incredibly helpful if you’re having trouble achieving the correct vertical gauge:

If swatch is measuring too small vertically, make a deliberate effort to pull loops up a bit higher before completing each double crochet.

If swatch is measuring too large vertically, make an effort to work the loops of each double crochet a little tighter.

Want some company while you crochet?
Get support (and camaraderie!) in the Make & Do Crew Facebook Group.

Premium PDF

easier and faster with fewer mistakes.

Complete pattern + photo tutorials
Instant download
Formatted for easy printing

purchase the PDF

✨Unlock this free subscriber-exclusive pattern ✨

Follow these steps to view the full free pattern below

Click the box below to open the Grow.me app 👇
Enter your email and create a password to sign up for a free account
Log in with your account info whenever you see subscriber-exclusive free patterns on our site.

Click the “forgot password” link in the Grow login screen and follow the steps to reset it.

(Tip: Save your password info! We don’t have access to help with password resets.)

Visit our FAQ page for a video tutorial on how to login on desktop and mobile, plus answers to questions about our subscriber-exclusive patterns.

Front + Back Panels

Piece is worked sideways, from wrist to wrist.

It can be helpful to place a stitch marker in the first of each set of two increase rows (Row 5 and 12, for example.) There should be six rows between each marker. Placing a marker also makes it easier to count how many increase rows you’ve worked.

Make 2.

Crochet front panel with stitch markers.

Increasing:

Foundation Row: Chain 48 (55, 62, 69).

Row 1 (WS): Sc in second ch from hook, *ch 3, sk next 3 ch, sc in next ch**, ch 3, sk next 2 ch, sc in next ch, rep from * across, ending last repeat at **; turn. (13 (15, 17, 19) ch3sps)

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, 4 dc in first ch3sp, *ch 1, dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch3sp, rep from * across, dc in last sc; turn. (7 (8, 9, 10) dc clusters)

Row 3 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 3, sk next 4 dc**, sc in next ch1sp, ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sc in tch; turn. (13 (15, 17, 19) ch3sps)

Row 4 (RS): Ch 4, *dc in next ch3sp, ch 1**, 4 dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, dc in last sc; turn. (6 (7, 8, 9) dc clusters + 2 dc at ends of row)

Row 5 (WS inc): Ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in first dc, *ch 3, sk next dc**, sc in next ch1sp, ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across ending last rep at **, sc in 3rd ch of tch; turn. (14 (16. 18, 20) ch3sps)

Row 6 (RS inc): Rep Row 2 until one ch3sp remains, ch 1, dc in last ch3sp, dc in last sc; turn. (7 (8, 9, 10) dc clusters + 2 dc at ends of row)

Row 7 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch1sp, ch 3, sk next 4 dc**, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across ending last repeat at **, sc in tch; turn. (14 (16, 18, 20) ch3sps)

Row 8 (RS): Rep Row 4 until one ch3sp remains, 4 dc in last ch3sp, dc in last sc; turn. (7 (8, 9, 10) clusters)

Row 9 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in next ch1sp, ch 3, sk next dc**, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sc in 3rd ch of tch; turn. (14 (16, 18, 20) ch3sps)

Row 10 (RS): Rep Row 2 until one ch3sp remains, ch 1, dc in last ch3sp, dc in last sc; turn. (7 (8, 9, 10) clusters + 2 dc at ends of row)

Row 11 (WS inc): Ch 1, (sc, ch 3, sc) in first dc, *ch 3, sk next dc, sc in next ch1sp, ch 3, sk next 4 dc**, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across ending last rep at **, sc in tch; turn. (15 (17, 19, 21) ch3sps)

Row 12 (RS inc): Rep Row 4 until one ch3sp remains, dc in last ch3sp, dc in last sc; turn. (7 (8, 9, 10) dc clusters + 2 dc at ends of row)

Row 13 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first dc ch 3, sk next dc, sc in ch1sp, *ch 3, sk next 4 dc, sc in next ch1sp, ch 3, sk next dc**, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sc in 3rd ch of tch; turn. (15 (17, 19, 21) ch3sps)

Row 14 (RS): Rep Row 2. (8 (9, 10, 11) dc clusters)

Row 15 (WS): Rep Row 3. (15 (17, 19, 21))

Row 16 (RS): Rep Row 4. (7 (8, 9, 10) dc clusters + 2 dc at ends of row)

Rep Rows 5-16 once more. At end of repeat (Row 16) you should have (8 (9, 10, 11) dc clusters)

Then repeat Rows 5-8. At end of repeat (Row 8) you should have (9 (10, 11, 12) dc clusters)

At this point, your piece should include 32 total rows and measure approximately 14.25”. If your measurement is off, you can eliminate or add rows in in the Working Even section before moving on to the Decrease section.

Working Even:

The center of the sweater is worked without increasing or decreasing, therefore the stitch count remains consistent throughout.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 3, sc in next ch1sp**, ch 3, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across, ch 3, sc in tch; turn. (18 (20, 22, 24) ch3sps)

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, 4 dc in first ch3sp, *ch 1, dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch3sp, rep from * across until one ch3sp remains, ch 1, dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, dc in last sc; turn. (9 (10, 11, 12) dc clusters)

Row 3 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 3, , sc in next ch1sp**, ch 3, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, ch 3, sc in 3rd ch of tch; turn. (18 (20, 22, 24) ch3sps)

Row 4 (RS): Ch 4, *dc in next ch3sp, ch 1**, 4 dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, rep from * across, ending last rep at ** when one ch3sp remains, 4 dc in next ch3sp, dc in last st; turn. (9 (10, 11, 12) dc clusters)

Rep Rows 1-4; 6 ( 9, 9, 11) more times

Rep Rows 1-2; 1 (0, 0, 1) more time.

At this point the Working Even section should contain 30 (40, 40, 50) rows and your total piece should contain 62 (72, 72, 82) rows.

Decreasing:

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 3, sc in next ch1sp, ch 3**, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across ending final repeat at **, sc in tch; turn. (18 (20, 22, 24) ch3sps)

Row 2 (RS dec): Ch 4, *dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, rep from * across until 2 ch3sps remain; dc in next ch3sp, sk last ch3sp (dec made), tr in last sc; turn. (8 (9, 10, 11) dc clusters)

Row 3 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first tr, *ch 3**, sc in next ch1sp, ch 3, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across ending last rep at **, sc in 3rd ch of tch; turn. (17 (19, 21, 23) ch3sps)

Row 4 (RS): Ch 3, 4 dc in first ch3sp, *ch 1, dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch3sp, rep from * across, dc in last sc; turn. (9 (10, 11, 12) dc clusters)

Row 5 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 3**, sc in next ch1sp, ch 3, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, sc in tch; turn. (17 (19, 21, 23) ch3sps)

Row 6 (RS): Ch 4, *dc in next ch3sp, ch 1**, 4 dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, rep from * across, ending last rep at **, dc in last sc; turn. (8 (9, 10, 11) dc clusters)

Row 7 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 3**, sc in next ch1sp, ch 3, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across ending last rep at **, sc in 3rd ch of tch; turn. (17 (19, 21, 23) ch3sps)

Row 8 (RS dec): Ch 3, 4 dc in first ch3sp, *ch 1, dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch3sp, rep from * across until 2 ch3sps remain; ch 1, dc in next ch3sp, sk last ch3sp (dec made), tr in last sc; turn. (8 (9, 10, 11) dc clusters)

Row 9 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first tr, *ch 3, sc in next ch1sp, ch 3**, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across ending last rep at **, sc in tch; turn. (16 (18, 20, 22) ch3sps)

Row 10 (RS):. Ch 4, *dc in next ch3sp, ch 1**, 4 dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, rep from * across, ending last rep at ** when one ch3sp remains, 4 dc in next ch3sp, dc in last st; turn. (8 (9, 10, 11) dc clusters)

Row 11 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 3, sc in next ch1sp**, ch 3, sc in next ch1sp, rep from * across ending last rep at **, ch 3, sc in tch; turn. (16 (18, 20, 22) ch3sps)

Row 12 (RS): Ch 3, 4 dc in first ch3sp, *ch 1, dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, 4 dc in next ch3sp, rep from * across until one ch3sp remains, ch 1, dc in next ch3sp, ch 1, dc in last sc; turn. (8 (9, 10, 11) dc clusters)

Repeat Rows 1-12 one time. At end of repeat (Row 16) you should have (7 (8, 9, 10) dc clusters)

Then repeat Rows 1-5. (13 (15, 17, 19) ch3sps)

At this point the Decreasing section should contain 29 rows and your total piece should contain 91 (101, 101, 111) rows.

Fasten off leaving a 30” yarn tail.

Our Latest Crochet Inspiration:
Here are a few more free crochet patterns and tutorials that are hot off the presses.

Joining Panels

Seaming Shoulders:

To Mark Neck Opening: Along the curved edge of your crescent, count 32 (36, 35, 39) rows from each end and place a stitch marker in the edge of the row. There should be (27 (29, 31, 33) rows between markers.
With RS of panels together, pin the pieces together along the upper edge. Take care to line up double crochet rows with double crochet rows on the opposite panel.
Try on your swancho and evaluate the neckline opening. Adjust marker placement to create a looser or tighter neckline if desired.
With RS of panels still facing in, use tapestry needle and a strand of yarn to zig zag stitch panels together along upper edge.
While tapestry needle is threaded, weave in yarn tail and fasten off.

Seaming Sides:

With RS still facing in, pin panels together at each side of swancho beginning at the bottom edge, and working toward the top seam. Leave 6 (7, 8, 9) ch3sps unpinned for the armhole. This means 7 (8, 9, 10) ch3sps will be seamed for the sweater side.
Using tapestry needle and existing yarn tails, zig zag stitch panels together along side edges.
While tapestry needle is threaded, weave in yarn tail and fasten off.

Obsessed with finding the best free crochet patterns?

Check out these collections of handpicked patterns to find your next project.

Sleeve Cuffs

Ribbing is worked in rows perpendicular to sleeve edge. Ribbing is attached as it’s created by slip stitching to sleeve set-up round.

Each single crochet is worked through the back loop only (blo) of the stitch in the previous row. On even rows only (those heading away from sweater), the last stitch of the row is worked through both loops.

Pay attention to the RS/WS designation of row as it will help clarify which side of sweater is facing in each row.

Make 2.

Attach yarn in ch3sp near side seam. With larger hook:

Ribbing Set-Up Round (RS): Ch 1, 3 sc in each ch3sp, (sk all sc), slst to first sc to join. (18 (21, 24, 27) sc)

With smaller hook:

Foundation Chain: Ch 17. (For longer or shorter sleeve cuffs, adjust the number of foundation chains.)

Crocheting cuff sleeves using a crochet hook.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook, sc in each st, slst to second sc of Ribbing Set-Up Round (sweater), slst to next sc; turn. (16 sc + 2 slsts on sweater)

Row 2 (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk slsts along sleeve edge, scblo in each sc until 1 rem, sc through both loops of the last st; turn. (16 sc)

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each sc, slst to next unworked sleeve sc, slst to next sleeve sc; turn.

If you’d like your sleeve to fit tighter, you may choose to do three slip stitches periodically instead of two.

Row 4 (WS): Rep Row 2.

Rep Rows 3 and 4 around sleeve, ending with a WS row. This may require slip stitching only one or three stitches instead of two along sleeve on the final repeat. It’s fine to improvise here to ensure you end with a Row 4. This will position the yarn at the end of the sleeve cuff. Do not fasten off.

Joining Cuff:

Turn sleeve inside out. Line up first and last rows of ribbing. Slip stitch through each stitch to close cuff, working through the outer loop of last row and one loop of foundation chain for each stitch. Fasten off at end of seam.

Repeat instructions for second sleeve.

Bottom Trim

Round 1 is worked into the edges of the panel rows. Two types of rows are referenced. Taller dc-rows are the rows in the panel where double crochet stitches were used to create clusters. Shorter ch3sp-rows are the rows in the panel where chains were used to create loops of three stitches.
Place a stitch marker every 30 stitches as you work Round 1. This will make counting your stitches easier and will help guide your stitch count and placement in Round 2.
See chart in printable PDF pattern for visual representation of stitch repeat.

At bottom of sweater, attach yarn in the edge of the first ch3sp row after either side seam.

With larger hook:

Round 1 (RS): Across first panel edge: Ch 3 (counts as dc in first ch3sp-row edge), [2 dc in next dc-row edge, 1 dc in next ch3sp-row edge]; repeat across panel to last dc-row edge before next side seam, 2 dc in dc-row edge, sk last ch3sp-row edge at seam.

Pause to check stitch count: The exact stitch placement is less important than getting the correct stitch count. Upon reaching the side seam, you should have 135 (150, 150, 165) double crochet.

If you’re off by a couple, add or eliminate stitches to achieve the right stitch count (even if this means you must deviate from the stitch repeat outlined above.) The placement of the stitches is less important than achieving the correct stitch count.

To complete second panel: Repeat instructions for first panel working a dc in first ch3sp-row edge, slst to top of tch to join; turn.

At the end of this round, you should have a total of 270 (300, 300, 330) dc.

Round 2 (WS):

To begin: Ch 1, sc in top of tch from previous round, PM in first st to make it easy to see where round began, 3 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc, 5 tr, 4 dc, 4 hdc, 4 sc, 1 slst. (30 total sts)

To continue: [4 sc, 4 hdc, 4 dc, 5 tr, 4 dc, 4 hdc, 4 sc, 1 slst] repeat sequence around sweater bottom.

To check your progress: The stitch markers from the previous round should align with each 30 stitch repeat.

To finish: Slst to first sc of round to join; turn. (270 (300, 300, 330) sts)

Round 3 (RS): Ch 2 (counts as portion of dc3tog decrease), dc2tog over next two sts, *13 dc, 3 dc in next st (which should be center tr from previous round), 13 dc**, dc3tog; rep from * ending final repeat at **, slst to top of dc2tog from beginning of round to join; turn.

Round 4 (WS): Ch 2 (counts as portion of dc3tog decrease), dc2tog over next two sts, *13 dc, 3 dc in next st (which should be center dc from set of three in previous round), 13 dc**, dc3tog; rep from * ending final repeat at **, slst to top of dc2tog from beginning of round to join.

Rep Round 4 two more times, turning at the end of each row. For a longer sweater, add additional repeats of Round 4.

RS should be facing for finishing border, regardless of if last round was a right or wrong side round.

Finishing Border (RS): Ch 1, slst in each st around bottom of sweater, slst to first st of round to join. Slip stitches have a tendency to be tight, so focus on creating even tension that isn’t looser or tighter than final repeat of Round 4.

Fasten off.

Finishing

Weave in remaining ends: Learn more here.

Blocking: Once all ends are woven in, you may do a light steam blocking using either a steamer or iron with steam setting. Focus on any areas that aren’t laying as flat as you’d like, such as the sleeve ribbing seams or bottom trim. Do not touch steamer or iron directly to yarn. Detailed info here.

Toss on your new swancho over whatever you’re wearing and twirl around like the boho queen you are!

A lacy crochet sweater being tried on by a woman before seaming together. — It’s very encouraging to try on your lacy sweater before seaming the pieces together.

Did you try this?

Leave a ★ review and tag @MakeAndDoCrew on Instagram and Facebook!

More Garments to Crochet

If you love crocheting cardigans, dresses, and other wearables as much as we do, here are some goodies to keep your hands and hook busy!

That was so fun! Now what?

Pin this post: Save this to your Pinterest crochet board so you can easily find it again.
Share your work on Instagram or Facebook: Tag @MakeAndDoCrew and use #MakeAndDoCrew to show us your stitchin’!
Leave a comment: Say hello and share your feedback below.

Invitation to our Facebook group

Come discuss crocheting swanchos and lots of other projects and techniques in our Make & Do Crew Facebook group. Here thousands of helpful crocheters answer each other’s questions and share their stitches. Join us!