Mesh Crochet Pullover Pattern | Quick + Easy

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Squishy, Tubular Yarn

The Lattice Luxe Pullover is our first time using Lion Brand’s Let’s Get Cozy: Lazy Days yarn and we’re already in love! (There might just be another Lazy Days project on my hook right now…)

With a chainette-style tubular construction, this squishy yarn is quite unique. You get the stitch definition of T-shirt yarn but the hollow tube gives it more of a bouncy feel. Check out all the beautiful muted shades of Lazy Days here.

Substitutions

You can substitute another worsted-weight, category 4 yarn for this mesh sweater, but it’ll be important to check your gauge following the instructions below.

You can also check out Yarn Sub for ideas.

Supplies + Materials

Order an all-in-one kit from Lion Brand here.
 • Lion Brand Let’s Get Cozy: Lazy Days (Weight 4/Medium – 179 yds, 3.5 oz, 100 g)

• Wind Chime  (144 – 150BC)  6 (7, 7, 8, 8)(9, 9, 10, 11) skeins [approx. 594 (622, 671, 707, 770)(825, 895, 946, 1023) g]

• Tapestry needle

• Size J (6.0 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

• Stitch markers or safety pins

Measurements: 

Model is wearing a size M. If you are between sizes, it is recommended you size up, as this sweater is meant to fit with approximately 0-5” of positive ease.

Size	Fits Actual Bust**	Sweater Length*	Chest Width*
XS	30”	22.5”	16”
S	34”	22.5”	17”
M	38”	24.5”	19”
L	42”	24.5”	21.5”
1X	46”	27”	23.5”
2X	50”	27”	25.5”
3X	54”	28”	28”
4X	58”	29”	30”
5X	62”	30”	32”

* Measurements taken when laid flat.

Skill Level

Confident Advanced Beginner: Skills you’ll practice include half double crochet, treble crochet, decreasing, adding ribbing and working in the round.

Gauge

4 clusters + 3 spaces = 4”

8 rows = 4”

Abbreviations + Glossary (US Terms)

ch – chain
chsp – chain space
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
PM – place marker
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
scblo – single crochet through the back loop only
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch
tch – turning chain
trc – treble crochet
st(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over

Special Stitches

Hdc over next 2 ch1sp: Ch 2, yo and pull up loop in first ch1sp, yo and pull up loop in next ch1sp, yo and pull through all 5 loops on hook. Also known as hdc2tog.

Print This Pattern: purchase the ad-free, printable PDF

Overall Pattern Notes

• Sweater is worked in turned rounds to armholes

• Ch 2 counts as 1 hdc throughout

• Ch 3 counts as 1 hdc and 1 ch throughout

• Ch 4 counts as 1 trc throughout

• Ch 5 counts as 1 trc and 1 ch throughout

• Check out this guide if you’re new to reading crochet patterns.
  
• Learn more tips for crocheting your first sweater.

!! Gauge Check !!

Here’s how to make a gauge swatch before you get started on your project. Please don’t skip this step or you will risk your pullover not fitting as expected.

Foundation Row: Ch 32.

Row 1 (WS): Hdc in third ch from hook (ch 2 counts as first hdc), hdc in next ch, *ch 1, sk 1 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, rep from * to end of row; turn. (24 hdc and 7 ch1sp).

Row 2 (RS): Ch 5, 2 trc in next ch1sp, *ch 1, 3 trc in next ch1sp, rep from * until 3 sts remain, ch 1, trc in top of tc; turn.

Row 3 (WS): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first ch1sp, *ch 1, 3 hdc in next ch1sp, rep from * to end of row. 

Repeat Row 2 and 3 five more times for a total of 13 rows.

Measure center four inches of swatch vertically and horizontally. Compare to pattern gauge listed above. 

• If there are too many stitches in 4” horizontally, increase your hook size and re-swatch. 
• If there aren’t enough stitches in 4” horizontally, decrease your hook size ,and re-swatch.
• If swatch is measuring too small vertically, make a deliberate effort to pull loops up a bit higher before completing each half double crochet. 
• If swatch is measuring too large vertically, make an effort to work the loops of each half double crochet a little tighter.
• This video is incredibly helpful if you’re having trouble achieving the correct vertical gauge:

Main Body of Pullover

Foundation Row: Ch 120 (128, 144, 160, 176)(192, 208, 224, 240), join with slst to first ch being careful not to twist ch.

Round 1 (WS): Ch 2,  hdc in next 2 ch, ch 1, sk 1 ch, *1 hdc in ea of next 3 ch, ch 1, sk 1 ch, rep from * to end of round, join with slst to top of first ch 2; turn. (30 (32, 36, 40, 44)(48, 52, 56, 60) hdc clusters)

Round 2 (RS): Ch 4, 2 trc in first ch1sp, ch 1, *3 trc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * to end of round, join with slst to top of ch 4; turn. (30 (32, 36, 40, 44)(48, 52, 56, 60) trc clusters)

Round 3 (WS): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first ch1sp, ch 1, * 3 hdc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * to end of round, join with slst to top of ch 2; turn.

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 ten (ten, eleven, eleven, twelve)(twelve, twelve, thirteen, thirteen) more times. At this point, you should have 23 (23, 25, 25, 27)(27, 27, 29, 29) rows, and your piece should measure approximately 15”. 

If a longer sweater is desired, work additional repeats now, ending with a Round 3. As with any pattern modifications, adjusting the number of rounds will also change the amount of yarn you need for this pattern.

Dividing for Front and Back

You will now divide for the front and back panels. The Front and Back will then be worked separately, leaving 2 (3, 3, 3, 4)(4, 4, 5, 5) hdc clusters unworked for each underarm.

With right side facing:

Set Up: 

Front: PM in first ch1sp after attached yarn, count 13 (13, 15, 17, 18)(20, 22, 23, 25) ch1sp from first marker, PM in this ch1sp…

Underarm: Skip next 2 (3, 3, 3, 4)(4, 4, 5, 5) hdc clusters and PM in ch1sp after the last cluster…

Back: Count (13 (13, 15, 17, 18)(20, 22, 23, 25) ch1sp from the last marker placed, PM in this ch1sp…

Second underarm: There should be 2 (3, 3, 3, 4)(4, 4, 5, 5) hdc clusters remaining.

Front

Front is worked in turned rows.

With attached yarn:

Row 1 (RS): Ch 4, 2 trc in first ch1sp, *ch 1, 3 trc in next ch1sp, rep from * to next marked ch1sp, 3 trc in marked ch1sp; turn. (14 (14, 16, 18, 19)(21, 23, 24, 26) trc clusters)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3,  *3 hdc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * hdc in top of tch; turn. (13 (13, 15, 17, 18)(20, 22, 23, 25) hdc clusters + 2 hdc)

Sizes XS and S: proceed to Dividing for Front Neckline. (2 rows)

Row 5 (RS dec): Ch 4, 2 trc in first ch1sp, ch 1, * 3 trc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * to last ch1sp, 2 trc in last ch1sp, 1 trc on tch; turn. (4 (4, 4, 5, 5)(6, 7, 7, 8) trc clusters)

Row 6 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as hdc + ch1sp), 3 hdc in first ch1sp, ch 1,  *3 hdc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * until 3 sts remain, 1 hdc in tch; turn. (3 (3, 3, 4, 4)(5, 6, 6, 7) hdc clusters + 2 hdc)

Row 7 (RS dec): Ch 4, 2 trc in first ch1sp, *ch 1, 3 trc in next ch1sp, rep from * to last ch1sp, 2 trc in last ch1sp; turn. (3 (3, 3, 4, 4)(5, 6, 6, 7) trc clusters + 2 trc)

Row 8 (WS): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first ch1sp, ch 1, * 3 hdc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * until 3 sts remain, hdc in tch; turn. (3 (3, 3, 4, 4)(5, 6, 6, 7) hdc clusters + 1 hdc)

Row 9 (RS dec): Ch 4, 2 trc in first ch1sp, ch 1, *3 trc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * until 3 sts remain, trc in tch; turn. (3 (3, 3, 4, 4)(5, 6, 6, 7) trc clusters + 1 trc)

Row 10 (WS): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first ch1sp, *ch 1, 3 hdc in next ch1sp, rep from * until 3 sts remain, hdc in tch. (3 (3, 3, 4, 4)(5, 6, 6, 7) hdc clusters + 1 hdc)

Fasten off leaving 20” tail for seaming shoulder.

Second Front (as worn):

Attach yarn in second marked ch1sp (at neck edge).

Row 1 (RS dec): Ch 4, trc in first ch1sp, *ch 1, 3 trc in next ch1sp, rep from * to end of row; turn. (4 (4, 4, 5, 5)(6, 7, 7, 8) trc clusters + 2trc)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, *3 hdc in first ch1sp, ch1, rep from * until 1 ch1sp remains, 2 hdc in ch1sp, hdc in top of tch; turn. (4 (4, 4, 5, 5)(6, 7, 7, 8) hdc clusters + 1 hdc)

Row 3 (RS dec): Ch 5, 3 trc in first ch1sp, *ch 1, 3 trc in next ch1sp, rep from * to end of row; turn. (4 (4, 4, 5, 5)(6, 7, 7, 8) trc clusters + 1 trc)

Row 4 (WS): Ch 3, *3 hdc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * until 1 ch1sp remains, 2 hdc in ch1sp, hdc in top of tch; turn. (4 (4, 4, 5, 5)(6, 7, 7, 8) hdc clusters + 1 hdc)

Row 5 (RS dec): Ch 4, 2 trc in first ch1sp, *ch 1, 3 trc in next ch1sp, rep from * to end of row; turn. (4 (4, 4, 5, 5)(6, 7, 7, 8) trc clusters)

Row 6 (WS): Ch 3, *3 hdc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * to last st, hdc in top of tch; turn. (3 (3, 3, 4, 4)(5, 6, 6, 7) hdc clusters + 2 hdc)

Row 7 (RS dec): Ch 4, trc in first ch1sp, *ch 1, *3 trc in next ch1sp, rep from * to end of row; turn. (3 (3, 3, 4, 4)(5, 6, 6, 7) trc clusters + 2 trc)

Row 8 (WS): Ch 3, *3 hdc in first ch1sp, *ch 1, 3 hdc in next ch1sp, rep from * to end of row; turn. (3 (3, 3, 4, 4)(5, 6, 6, 7) hdc clusters + 1 hdc)

Row 9 (RS dec): Ch 5, 3 trc in first ch1sp, *ch 1, 3 trc in next ch1sp, rep from * to end of row; turn. (3 (3, 3, 4, 4)(5, 6, 6, 7) trc clusters + 1 trc)

Row 10 (WS): Ch 3, 3 hdc in first ch1sp, *ch 1, 3 hdc in next ch1sp, rep from * to end of row. (3 (3, 3, 4, 4)(5, 6, 6, 7) hdc clusters + 1 hdc) 

Fasten off leaving 20” tail for seaming shoulder.

Back

Back is worked in turned rows.

Right handed crocheters: Attach yarn at right side (as worn) underarm marker.

Left handed crocheters: Attach yarn at left side (as worn) underarm marker.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 4, 2 trc in first ch1sp, ch 1, * 3 trc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * to last ch1sp 1 (before marked st at left side (as worn) underarm), 3 trc in last ch1sp; turn. (14 (14, 16, 18, 19)(21, 23, 24, 26) trc clusters).

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, *3 hdc in first ch1sp, ch 1,  rep from * to end of row, 1 hdc in tch; turn. (13 (13, 15, 17, 18)(20, 22, 23, 25) hdc clusters + 2 hdc)

Repeat Row 1 and 2 four (four, five five, six)(six, seven, seven, eight) more times for a total of 10 (10, 12, 12, 14)(14, 16, 16, 18) rows. The back intentionally has one less row than the front to keep in pattern when seaming shoulders.

Now the right and left shoulders are worked individually. Do not fasten off.

First Back:

With attached yarn:

Row 1 (RS): Ch 4, 2 trc in first ch1sp, ch 1, *3 trc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * 1 (1, 1, 2, 2)(3, 4, 4, 5) more times, 1 trc in next ch1sp. (3 (3, 3, 4, 4)(5, 6, 6, 7) trc clusters + 1 trc)

Fasten off. 

Second Back: 

Right handed crocheters: Attach yarn in the fourth (fourth, fourth, fifth, fifth)(sixth, seventh, seventh, eighth) ch1sp from left armhole edge of back:

Left handed crocheters: Attach yarn in the fourth (fourth, fourth, fifth, fifth)(sixth, seventh, seventh, eighth) ch1sp from right armhole edge of back. 

Row 1 (RS): Ch 5, *3 trc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from *  until last ch1sp, 2 trc in last ch1sp, 1 trc in top of tch. (3 (3, 3, 4, 4)(5, 6, 6, 7) trc clusters + 1 trc)

Fasten off. 

Seaming Front and Back of Pullover:

With right sides together, line up shoulder seams so the last row of the fronts of shoulders align with shoulder backs so they stay in pattern. (Trc cluster of the back shoulder should line up with the ch1sp on the front shoulder).

Seam together with the mattress stitch using a tapestry needle and existing yarn tails.

Bottom Ribbing

Check out this tutorial on adding ribbing if this technique is new to you.

Ribbing is added to bottom of sweater using a join-as-you-go method. With wrong side facing, attach yarn at either hip in the foundation chain from the beginning of the pattern. 

Setup Round (WS): Ch 1,  *1 sc in each of first 10 sts, sk 1 st, rep from * around bottom of pullover, join with slst to first sc, (110 (117, 131, 146, 160)(175, 190, 204, 219) sts)

Foundation Row: Ch 13.

Row 1 (RS): Slst in second ch from hook, slst in each ch to end of row, slst into next unworked st of bottom edge of pullover; turn. (12 st)

Row 2 (WS): Slstblo in each ch to end of row, turn.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, slstblo in each st to end of row, slst in next unworked st of bottom edge of pullover; turn.

Row 4 (WS): Repeat Row 2.

Row 5 (RS): Ch 1, slstblo in each st to end of row, slst in next 2 unworked sts of bottom edge of pullover; turn.

Repeat Rows 2-5 around bottom edge of pullover, ending with a WS row. On the final repeat, this may require slip stitching only one stitch instead of two along Set Up Round. It’s fine to improvise here to ensure you end with a Row 4. This will position the yarn at the bottom of the sweater. Fasten off leaving a 16” tail for seaming ribbing. 

Seaming Ribbing: 

With right sides together, line up front and back ribbing and seam using mattress stitch. Work through back loop of front side ribbing and front loop of back side ribbing. Weave in end.

(At this point, you have a cute crochet top and can simply move onto the neckline if you’re prefer a sleeveless look.)

Sleeves

• Sleeves are worked in turned rounds from shoulder to wrist and decreasing as you go.

• Decreases are alternated between the top and bottom of the sleeve to minimize any bunching. The exact placement of the decreases doesn’t matter though, so just aim for the correct general area.

• It can be helpful to place a marker in the last decrease row you work to easily keep track of when it’s time to work another one.

Make 2. 

Attach yarn in middle of underarm stitches.

Right handed crocheters: Work clockwise around armhole.

Left handed crocheters: Work counter clockwise around armhole.

Foundation Round (RS): Ch 1, sc evenly around the armhole, placing 1 sc in side of each hdc and 3 sc in side of each trc. Join with a slst to first sc; turn.

Note: Exact stitch count in this round is less important than making sure that there is no bunching or puckering, and that you end up with a multiple of 4.

Round 1 (WS): Ch 2, hdc in each of next 2 sts, ch 1, sk 1 sc, *3 hdc in next 3 sc, ch1, sk 1 sc, rep from * to end of round, join with slst to top of tch; turn.

Round 2 (RS): Ch 4, 2 trc in first ch1sp, ch 1, *3 trc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * to end of round, join with slst to top of tch; turn.

Round 3 (WS): Ch 2, 2 hdc in first ch1sp, ch 1, *3 hdc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * to end of round; join with slst to top of tch; turn. 

Round 4-9: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 three more times for a total of nine rounds.

Round 10 (WS dec top): Ch 2, hdc over next 2 ch1sps, 1 hdc in same sp, ch 1, *3 hdc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from  * to end of round, join with slst to top of tch; turn.

Round 11 (RS): Rep Round 2.

Round 12 (WS dec bottom): Ch 2, 2hdc in first ch1sp, ch 1, *3 hdc in next ch1sp, ch 1, rep from * until two clusters remain, hdc2tog over next 2 ch1sp, hdc in same ch1 sp, ch 1, join with slst to top of tch; turn. 

Round 13 (RS): Repeat Row 2.

Round 14 (WS): Repeat Row 3.

Round 15 (RS): Repeat Row 2

Repeat Rounds 10-15 two more times.

Repeat Rounds 3 and 2 until sleeve measures two inches less than desired length.

Sleeve Ribbing

Cuff is worked just as bottom ribbing was.

Set up Round (RS): Ch 1, 1 sc in each of first 3 (3, 3, 3, 3)(2, 2, 2, 2) sts, sk ch1sp, *1 sc in each of next 3 (3, 3, 3, 3)(2, 2, 2, 2) sts, sk ch1sp, rep from * to end of round, join with slst to first sc.

We’ll now work perpendicular to the sleeve edge in rows of ribbing that are attached as you go.

Foundation Row: Ch 11.

Row 1 (RS): Slstblo in second ch from hook, slstblo in each ch until sleeve edge, slst in next unworked st of sleeve edge; turn. (10 sts)

Row 2 (WS): Slstblo in each of next 10 sts; turn.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, slst in each st to end of row, slst in next unworked st of sleeve edge; turn. 

Rep Rows 2 and 3 around sleeve edge, ending with a WS row. On the final repeat, this may require slip stitching two stitches instead of one along Set Up Round. It’s fine to improvise here to ensure you end with a Row 2. This will position the yarn at the bottom of the sleeve. Fasten off leaving a 16” tail for seaming ribbing. 

Fasten off leaving a 12” tail for seaming ribbing.

Seaming Ribbing: 

With right sides together, line up front and back ribbing, seam together using mattress stitch, working through back loop of front side ribbing and front loop of back side ribbing. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Neckline Finishing

After the foundation round, Ribbing is worked in joined rounds without turning at the end of each.

With WS facing: 

Right handed crocheters: Attach yarn at left shoulder seam as worn.

Left handed crocheters: Attach yarn at right shoulder seam as worn.

Foundation Round (WS): 

Back of neckline: Ch 1, 1 sc in side of hdc, 3 sc in side of trc, sc in ch1sp, *1 sc in each of next 3 sts, 1 sc in ch1 sp, rep from * to last trc, 3 trc in side of trc, 1 sc in side of hdc (at shoulder seam)…

Front of neckline: *3 sc in side of trc, 1 sc in side of hdc, rep from * four more times…

 **1 sc in each of next 3 sts, 1 sc in ch1sp, rep from ** across unworked stitches of front of neckline (27 sc)…

*3 sc in side of trc, 1 sc in side of hdc, rep from * four more times, join with slst to first sc, turn. (132 sts)

Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, slstblo in first st, slst in each st to end of round, join with slst to first slst. Do not turn. (132 slst)

Rounds 2-3 (RS): Repeat Round 1.

Finishing

Weave in remaining ends.

It can also be helpful to steam block your sweater. Simply lay your pullover out flat and use a steamer or iron with a steam setting to direct steam at the fabric from 4-6″ away. (Do not touch the steamer/iron to the yarn.) 

Pop on your new pullover and flip your hair like the casual chic maker you are!