Part 2: Patchwork Party Cardi - ORIGINAL

This week we move onto crocheting our sweater front and underarm strips and joining them to the back. Find part 2 of the free pattern and video tutorial below or purchase the complete, printable PDF here.

The Patchwork Party Cardi pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.

If you're completely new to the Patchwork Party Cardi pattern set, you can find the main page with all the resources and links for both the ORIGINAL and LITE sweaters here.

Table of Contents:
What to expect in Part 2
How do I print the pattern?
Video Tutorial - Part 2
Free Pattern - Part 2

Part 2 of the pattern is quite similar to the first week, which means you've already learned all the skills you need!

Keep reading for a few details on what to expect in Part 2 of the crochet along or jump down for this week's free pattern and video tutorial.

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Patchwork Party Cardi ORIGINAL

Free Crochet Pattern - Part 2

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF on Etsy here and on LoveCrafts here.

Save this pattern to your Ravelry here.

Pin this pattern for later here.

Explanation:
Grab your scraps or some multi-color yarn and call on your inner artist, it’s time to throw a patchwork party! You’ll likely find the construction of this sweater different from anything you’ve seen before, but that doesn’t mean it’s complicated–quite the opposite, in fact!

This painterly cardigan uses a clever technique of crocheting in strips to minimize seaming and create fewer ends to weave in. With endless ways to customize, this is a cardigan you can truly make you own.

Supplies:
Order an all-in-one kit from Lion Brand here.
 • Lion Brand Scarfie (Weight: 5/bulky - 312 yds, 5.3 oz) - 5 (6, 6, 8, 8) total skeins*
- Seafoam/Clay [826-237] – 1 ball (approx. 150g)
- Rust/Cameo [826-235] - 1 ball (approx. 150g)
- Ice/Gold [826-232] - 1 ball (approx. 150g)
- Mushroom/Blush [826-231] - 1 ball (approx. 150g)
- Mustard/Ice Pink [826-236] - 1 ball (approx. 150g)
- Steel Blue/Slate [826-234] - 1 ball (approx. 150g)

* Yarn amounts listed will result in leftover yarn at the end of the project. This is intentional to allow for flexible color planning. Should you want to purchase only enough yarn to crochet the sweater without manipulating the colors, you’ll need approximately 3 (4, 5, 6, 6) skeins [(approx. 433 (583, 750, 851, 900) g)].

For Ribbing:
• Lion Brand Wool-Ease (Weight: 4/medium - 197 yds, 3 oz) - 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) skeins
- Antler [620-021]

Additional Materials:
• Tapestry needle
• Size L (8.00 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain main body gauge
• Size J (6.00 mm) crochet hook for ribbing
• Stitch markers or safety pins
• Needle felting tool (optional, but very helpful to avoid weaving in ends)
• (4-5) 1” buttons (optional)

Measurements:

Size	Fits Actual Bust	Sweater Length	# of Skeins of Scarfie for Main Body*	# of Skeins of Wool-Ease for Ribbing
XS	28-30"	22"	5	2
S/M	34-38"	26"	6	2
L/1X	42-46"	32"	6	2
⅔X	50-54"	32"	8	3
⅘X	58-62"	32"	8	3

Sample pictured is a S/M on a model with a 38” bust. For a looser fit, don’t be afraid to size up.

Gauge:
12 ehdc x 6.5 rows = 4”

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
ch – chain
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
scblo – single crochet through the back loop only
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch
slstblo – slip stitch through the back loop only
st(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over
tch - turning chain
ehdc – extended half double crochet: yo, insert hook, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through one loop on hook, yo, draw through all three loops on hook
ehdc2tog – extended half double crochet two together: yo, insert hook, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through one loop on hook, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through one loop on hook, yo, draw through all five loops on hook

Want some company while you crochet?
Get support (and camaraderie!) in the Make & Do Crochet Crew Facebook Group here.

Permissions + Copyright:
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back this post. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales photos.

Overall Pattern Notes:
• Pattern is written for smallest size, with stitch counts for larger sizes following in parentheses: XS (S/M, L/1X, ⅔X, ⅘X). It can be helpful to highlight all numbers related to your size before beginning. When only one number is given, it pertains to all sizes.

• Ch 3 counts as 1 ehdc throughout.

• In last row of each colored square, complete final yarn over of last stitch using new color. View a brief tutorial here.

• Continue to create a "checkerboard" of light/dark colors as you choose shades for the Front and Underarm strips. For more tips on choosing colors, reference Part 1 of the free pattern.

How to Minimize Ends to Weave In:
• Reference Part 1 of the video tutorial or free pattern for a recap on how to avoid weaving in ends.

Main Sweater Body at a Glance - a Recap

• Note that chart below does not include the sleeves.

Size	Strip Width (# of chain sts)	Square Height (# of rows)	# of Full Length Strips To Make	# of Underarm Strips To Make
XS	17	8	5	2
S/M	20	10	5	2
L/1X	23	12	5	2
⅔X	21	12	6	2
⅘X	23	12	6	2

Pin it! Click to pin this pattern for later ⇨

Sweater Underarms

Notes:
• A shorter strip is used on either side of the sweater to accommodate room for the sleeves. When crocheting each strip, reference existing strips in Back section to choose coordinating colors.

• If you need a review on any of the skills necessary to crochet a strip, re-watch the Part 1 video tutorial.

Instructions for One Partial-Length Strip:

With any color and larger hook:

Foundation Row: Ch 17 (20, 23, 21, 23).

*Row 1 (RS): Ehdc in fourth ch from hook, ehdc each ch to end; turn. (15 (18, 21, 19, 21) sts)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, ehdc in each st to end; turn. (15 (18, 21, 19, 21) sts)

Rep Row 2 six (eight, ten, ten ten) more times to create a total of 8 (10, 12, 12, 12) rows.

In last row of colored square, complete final yarn over of last stitch using new color.**

Rep from * to ** one more time to create a total of 2 squares of color.

With next color, rep Row 2 four (six, ten, eight, six) more times. Fasten off leaving a 40” tail.

Make 2 individual strips.

Sweater Fronts

Notes:
• Each sweater front is constructed from 1 full-length strip. When crocheting each strip, keep in mind tips from the “Planning Colors” notes in Part 1.

Instructions for One Full-Length Strip:

With any color and larger hook:

Foundation Row: Ch 17 (20, 23, 21, 23).

*Row 1 (RS): Ehdc in fourth ch from hook, ehdc each ch to end; turn. (15 (18, 21, 19, 21)
sts)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, ehdc in each st to end; turn. (15 (18, 21, 19, 21) sts)

Rep Row 2 six (eight, ten, ten ten) more times to create a total of 8 (10, 12, 12, 12) rows.

In last row of colored square, complete final yarn over of last stitch using new color.**

Rep from * to ** three more times to create a total of 4 squares of color. Fasten off leaving a 40” tail.

Make 2 individual strips.

Joining Front + Underarm Strips:

• If you need a review on any of the skills necessary to join your strips, re-watch the Part 1 video tutorial.

Lay strips out with WS facing up. Back section should be in the center, with underarm strips on either side. Finally, front strips should be on the far right and left. (See photo above.) Pin two strips together with stitch markers, taking care to line up color transitions for a tidy patchwork effect.

Use a tapestry needle and leftover yarn tails where possible and work from final row at top of strip to foundation row at bottom. Use a running stitch to join strips just as in Back section. At bottom of strips, weave in end and fasten off. Repeat joining process with remaining strips including set of Back strips. When finished, you should have 7 (7, 7, 8, 8) full/partial strips joined together.

Joining Shoulders:

• Jump to video tutorial above this free pattern for a visual walkthrough of shoulder seaming.

Fold Front strips to overlap Back strips so underarm strip is folded in half and WS of sweater is facing out. Use a tapestry needle and leftover yarn tails where possible to work a running stitch under “V” at top of all stitches. Take care to line up Front/Back strip stitches with each other, seaming one for one.

Ready for Part 3 of the Free Pattern?

Next week, we'll crochet and join the sleeves of our patchwork cardigans. I think you'll love seeing your sweater come together for real!

Go to Part 3.

Remember if you'd like to have the complete pattern in one easily printable place, you can purchase the printable PDF and have full access to the full pattern. Get the ad-free PDF on Etsy here and LoveCrafts here.

I also invite you to sign up for our emails below and I’ll send you a note when the next section of the free pattern is available.

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