Part 4: Patchwork Party Cardi - ORIGINAL

This week we crochet ribbing to "frame" our patchwork masterpieces and add the finishing touches like buttons and pockets. Find Part 4 of the free pattern and video tutorial below or purchase the complete, printable PDF here.

This free crochet sweater pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.

Are you ready to finish your Patchwork Party Cardi!? I hope you're feeling really excited about how your sweater looks right now and it's just going to get better from here.

Keep reading for a few details on what to expect in Part 4 of the crochet along or jump down for the last portion of the free pattern and video tutorial.

Lastly, we'll add pockets, attach buttons and steam block our finished sweaters. As with previous stages of the crochet along, of this is covered step-by-step in the video tutorial below.

NOTE: The sections of the free crochet along pattern follow a slightly different order from the printable PDF. For this reason, you may notice the photo and video tutorial sweater sample looks to be in a different stage than your sweater. Not to worry, though, all the same steps come together in the end whether you follow the free pattern or printable PDF!

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Patchwork Party Cardi ORIGINAL

Free Crochet Pattern - Part 4

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF on Etsy here and on LoveCrafts here.

Save this pattern to your Ravelry here.

Pin this pattern for later here.

Explanation:
Grab your scraps or some multi-color yarn and call on your inner artist, it’s time to throw a patchwork party! You’ll likely find the construction of this sweater different from anything you’ve seen before, but that doesn’t mean it’s complicated–quite the opposite, in fact!

This painterly cardigan uses a clever technique of crocheting in strips to minimize seaming and create fewer ends to weave in. With endless ways to customize, this is a cardigan you can truly make you own.

Supplies:
Order an all-in-one kit from Lion Brand here.
 • Lion Brand Scarfie (Weight: 5/bulky - 312 yds, 5.3 oz) - 5 (6, 6, 8, 8) total skeins*
- Seafoam/Clay [826-237] – 1 ball (approx. 150g)
- Rust/Cameo [826-235] - 1 ball (approx. 150g)
- Ice/Gold [826-232] - 1 ball (approx. 150g)
- Mushroom/Blush [826-231] - 1 ball (approx. 150g)
- Mustard/Ice Pink [826-236] - 1 ball (approx. 150g)
- Steel Blue/Slate [826-234] - 1 ball (approx. 150g)

* Yarn amounts listed will result in leftover yarn at the end of the project. This is intentional to allow for flexible color planning. Should you want to purchase only enough yarn to crochet the sweater without manipulating the colors, you’ll need approximately 3 (4, 5, 6, 6) skeins [(approx. 433 (583, 750, 851, 900) g)].

For Ribbing:
• Lion Brand Wool-Ease (Weight: 4/medium - 197 yds, 3 oz) - 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) skeins
- Antler [620-021]

Additional Materials:
• Tapestry needle
• Size L (8.00 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain main body gauge
• Size J (6.00 mm) crochet hook for ribbing
• Stitch markers or safety pins
• Needle felting tool (optional, but very helpful to avoid weaving in ends)
• (4-5) 1” buttons (optional)

Measurements:

Size	Fits Actual Bust	Sweater Length	of Skeins of Scarfie for Main Body*	of Skeins of Wool-Ease for Ribbing
XS	28-30"	22"	5	2
S/M	34-38"	26"	6	2
L/1X	42-46"	32"	6	2
⅔X	50-54"	32"	8	3
⅘X	58-62"	32"	8	3

Sample pictured is a S/M on a model with a 38” bust. For a looser fit, don’t be afraid to size up.

Gauge:
12 ehdc x 6.5 rows = 4”

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
ch – chain
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
scblo – single crochet through the back loop only
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch
slstblo – slip stitch through the back loop only
st(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over
tch - turning chain
ehdc – extended half double crochet: yo, insert hook, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through one loop on hook, yo, draw through all three loops on hook
ehdc2tog – extended half double crochet two together: yo, insert hook, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through one loop on hook, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through one loop on hook, yo, draw through all five loops on hook

Want some company while you crochet?
Get support (and camaraderie!) in the Make & Do Crochet Crew Facebook Group here.

Permissions + Copyright:
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back this post. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales photos.

Overall Pattern Notes:
• Pattern is written for smallest size, with stitch counts for larger sizes following in parentheses: XS (S/M, L/1X, ⅔X, ⅘X). It can be helpful to highlight all numbers related to your size before beginning. When only one number is given, it pertains to all sizes.

• Ch 3 counts as 1 ehdc throughout.

• In last row of each colored square, complete final yarn over of last stitch using new color. View a brief tutorial here.

• Continue to create a "checkerboard" of light/dark colors as you choose shades for the Front and Underarm strips. For more tips on choosing colors, reference Part 1 of the free pattern.

How to Minimize Ends to Weave In:
• Reference Part 1 of the video tutorial or free pattern for a recap on how to avoid weaving in ends.

NOTE: The sections of the free crochet along pattern follow a slightly different order from the printable PDF. For this reason, you may notice the photo and video tutorial sweater sample looks to be in a different stage than your sweater. Not to worry, though, all the same steps come together in the end whether you follow the free pattern or printable PDF!

Ribbing

Notes:
• Ribbing is worked perpendicular to sweater edge and attached as it’s crocheted.

• It is easy to miss a stitch here or there with this ribbing technique so it can be helpful to count your stitches periodically as you go.

Bottom Ribbing Band:

Attach Ribbing Yarn to bottom left corner of sweater front as worn. (Left-handed: attach yarn to bottom right corner of sweater front as worn.)

With smaller hook:

Ribbing Foundation: Ch 10.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook and each ch to end of row, slst to next available st of sweater bottom, slst into next available st of sweater bottom; turn. (9 sc 2 slsts)

Row 2 (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk slsts along bottom edge, scblo in each st until 1 remains, sc through both loops of the last st; turn. (9 sc)

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each sc to end of row, slst to next available st of sweater bottom, slst into next available st of sweater bottom; turn. (9 sc + 2 slsts)

Rep Row 2 and 3 until end of sweater bottom edge. Take care to end with a WS row (Row 2), even if it means only working 1 slst along sweater bottom edge for the last repeat. Do not fasten off.

Collar Ribbing Band:

With smaller hook and attached yarn:

Ribbing Foundation: Ch 10 (10, 10, 14, 14).

Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook and each ch to end of row, slstblo to next available st of bottom ribbing edge, slstblo into next available st of bottom ribbing edge; turn. (9 (9, 9, 13, 13) sc + 2 slsts)

Row 2 (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk slsts along bottom edge, scblo in each st until 1 remains, sc through both loops of the last st; turn. (9 (9, 9, 13, 13) sc)

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each sc to end of row, slstblo to next available st of bottom ribbing edge, slst into next available st of bottom ribbing edge turn. (9 (9, 9, 13, 13) sc + 2 slsts)

Rep Row 2 and 3 until end of bottom ribbing edge, ending with a WS row.

TIP: To add button holes, work the following row every tenth row for as many buttons as you’d like to include.

Button Hole Row (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk slsts along ribbing edge, scblo in next 4 (4, 4, 6, 6), ch 1, sk next st, scblo in each remaining st until 1 remains, sc through both loops of the last st; turn. (8 (8, 8, 12, 12) sc + 1 ch-1 button hole)

Continue in pattern of Row 2 and 3 around entire sweater fronts and neckline, adding button hole rows if desired. When working the raw row edges along sweater fronts, place both slip stitches of each Row 3 into one raw row edge. (Therefore each main body sweater row will have a Row 2 and 3 line up with it.) Whether slip stitching into an ehdc and tch raw row edge, slip stitch through the “meat” of the raw row edge stitch so as to securely anchor ribbing.

At bottom of ribbing on opposite side, end with a WS row. Fasten off.

Sleeve Ribbing Cuff:

With RS of sleeve facing, attach Ribbing Yarn to right corner of wrist edge of sleeve. (Left-handed: attach yarn to left corner of wrist edge of sleeve.) If sleeve is already seamed into a tube, attach yarn in any stitch along wrist edge.

With smaller hook:

Ribbing Foundation: Ch 10.

Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook and each ch to end of row, slst to next available st of sleeve edge, slst into next available st of sleeve edge; turn. (9 sc + 2 slsts)

Row 2 (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk slsts along sleeve edge, scblo in each st until 1 remains, sc through both loops of the last st; turn. (9 sc)

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each sc to end of row, slst to next available st of sleeve edge, slst into next available st of sleeve edge; turn. (9 sc + 2 slsts)

Rep Row 2 and 3 until end of wrist edge. Take care to end with a RS row (Row 3), even if it means only working 1 slst along sweater bottom edge for the last repeat. Fasten off. Repeat on second sleeve.

Pockets

Notes:
• See pocket placement photo above and choose colors based on what will look good in your sweater fronts. (This very likely could mean using the same color of the existing squares that will be covered by the pockets.) Remember, you can also use your gauge swatch as one of the pockets!

With larger hook:

Foundation Row: Ch 17 (20, 23, 21, 23).

Row 1 (RS): Ehdc in fourth ch from hook, ehdc each ch to end; turn. (15 (18, 21, 19, 21) sts)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, ehdc in each st to end; turn. (15 (18, 21, 19, 21) sts)

Rep Row 2 six (eight, ten, ten ten) more times to create a total of 8 (10, 12, 12, 12) rows.

Fasten off leaving a 30” tail.

Make 2 pockets total.

Finishing

Notes:
• All joining can be done with a tapestry needle and leftover yarn tails where possible. Only add a new strand of seaming yarn if no tails are available.

Seaming Sleeves Cuffs Closed:

With WS still facing out, use a running stitch to join entire length of sleeve, including cuff ribbing.

Attaching Pockets:

With RS of sweater facing out, pin pockets in place ensuring stitches are upright and pocket foundation row is at bottom of sweater. (See photo above.) Whip stitch pockets in place.

Attaching Buttons (Optional):

Using a scrap of yarn in same color as buttons, sew buttons in place on collar ribbing opposite button holes. It can be helpful to count ridges of ribbing between each button to ensure buttons are placed exactly opposite buttonholes. (See photos above in blog post for general button placement.)

Blocking:

Lay sweater out flat. Using a steamer or iron held at least 5” away, aim steam at sweater taking care not to touch yarn directly. Focus mostly on any seams that need a little convincing to lay flat.

Throw yourself a patchwork party–you just crocheted your own cardi!

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