Revival Granny Square Cardigan - Part 3

Now we'll work the fronts and back of the Revival Cardigan in a modern variation on the traditional granny stitch.

This modern crochet granny stitch sweater is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.

If you love the tradition of the crochet granny stitch, but want to give it a contemporary spin, you're in luck! In Part 3 of the Revival Cardigan we're going to learn how to finish the back of the sweater and seamlessly add both fronts.

And at the end of this section of the pattern, you'll be able to slip stitch to join your WIP at the shoulders and try it on! This step is definitely satisfying!

If you're completely new to the Revival Cardigan pattern, you can find the main page with all the resources and free pattern info here.

A Modern Version of the Crochet Granny Stitch

I first came across the beautiful, geometric stitch we're using today on DaisyFarmCrafts.com. Tiffany and Hannah are the designers behind all the spectacular blanket patterns from Daisy Farm Crafts. I happened to see their Modern Granny Blanket and knew the modern stitch would be a perfect compliment to the sunburst granny squares.

Ironically, when I reached out to Tiffany to learn more about the stitch, she told me she originally learned the stitch from a vintage crochet book. Ha. So I guess this proves everything that's old is new again.

Video Tutorial Support

While you've practiced this stitch a bit for the pockets we made in Part 2, if you find yourself needing extra help understanding it, Tiffany has a video tutorial you can follow along with. While the video covers her blanket pattern specifically, it will give you an idea of how the 4-row repeat translates to the Revival Cardigan.

A Stitch Chart Too!

If you've been following the free Revival granny square cardigan pattern this far, it might seem silly to invest in the printable PDF at this point. This section is where I think you might get the most benefit from some of the bonuses in the PDF though.

As a visual learner, I find glancing at a helpful stitch chart so much faster and clearer than reading written instructions. If you're the same way, I highly recommend referencing the stitch chart in the PDF while working on the fronts and back of your sweater.

While this stitch is not complicated, for some reason my brain had a hard time keeping track of the four row repeat until I drew a little stitch chart for myself. After that, it was smooth sailing!

download the complete pattern with stitch chart ⇨

More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns

Crochet sweater patterns don't need to be difficult. In fact, most of ours are made with very simple shapes. Dive into the wonderful world of crochet garments with cardigans, pullovers, ponchos, shrugs and more!

See more free crochet sweater patterns →

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The Revival Cardigan
Free Pattern - Part 3

Purchase the complete pattern as an ad-free, printable PDF here on LoveCrafts or here on Etsy.

Save this pattern to Ravelry here.

Pin it for later here.

Additional sections of the free pattern: Part 1, Part 2.

Supplies:
• Yarn: Lion Brand Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling (Weight: 4/medium - 185 yds, 3.5 oz)
- Main Color (A): Olive (202-132) – 8 (9, 11, 11, 13, 14, 15) skeins [(approx. 775 (880, 1025, 1100, 1210, 1305, 1485) g)]

- Accent Colors (5 colors, 7 total skeins required for all sizes):
• Ecru (202-098) – 2 skeins
• Gold Heather (202-401) – 1 skein
• Pomegranate (202-138) – 1 skein
• Prism (202-142) – 2 skeins
• Tan/White (202-603) – 1 skein

• Tapestry needle
• Size J (5.75 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• Stitch markers or safety pins

Sizes / Fits Actual Bust:
Additional measurements included in the PDF.
S/M - 33"
M/L - 37"
L/1X - 41"
1X/2X - 45"
2X/3X - 49"
3X/4X - 53"
4X/5X - 57"

Sample pictured is a size M/L on a 5'9" model with a 38" bust. If in doubt, size up for a looser fit.

Gauge:
Each granny square after blocking (4 rounds) = 4.75”

Main Sweater: 9 rows x 5 clusters = 4”

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
3dcCluster – group of 3 dc (granny st)
ch(s) – chain(s)
ch1sp – space created by 1 ch
ch2sp – space created by 2 chs
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet 2 together (decrease)
dc3tog – double crochet 3 together (decrease)
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch                           
st(s) – stitch(es)
tch – turning chain
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over

Want some company while you crochet?
Get support (and camaraderie!) in the Make & Do Crochet Crew Facebook Group here.

Permissions + Copyright:
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back this post. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales photos.

Sweater Back

Notes:
• In Row 1, “Cluster” refers to a set of 3 dc from the previous round of joining.

• Ch 4 counts as 1 dc and 1 ch1sp throughout. 

• See stitch chart on p29 of the printable PDF for visual guidance. 

• Daisy Farm Crafts has a video tutorial on the basics of this modern granny stitch here.

• Errata: Feb 2021 - several WS/RS designations have been changed as well as several mentions of Right/Left.

Using Color A working yarn still attached from Sweater Back Grannies:

RIGHT BACK:
(Left-Handed: Left Back)

With WS facing and yarn still attached from joining, Row 1 is worked along the nearest long side of the rectangle from the top (neck) to the bottom of the sweater.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 3, dc in first corner sp, 3 dc in space between first two clusters, 3 dc in space between each cluster across. At each join seam between squares: (1 dc in corner, 1 dc in seam, 1 dc in next corner). At end of row, place 2 dc in corner sp; turn. (35  3dcClusters, 4 dc)

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, dc in 2nd st, ch 2, *dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, ch 2; rep from * in each 3dcCluster to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts; turn.

Row 3 (WS): Ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in each ch2sp across to last 2 sts, sk next dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn. 

Row 4 (RS): Ch 4, dc3tog over first 3dcCluster, *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * across to tch, ch 1, dc into top of tch; turn.

Row 5 (WS): Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc (base of ch-3), sk ch1sp, 3 dc in each ch2sp across, ending with 2 dc into 3rd ch of tch; turn. 

SIZE S/M stop here

Row 6 (RS): Ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, *dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, ch 2; rep from * to last 2 sts, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn. 

Row 7 (WS): Rep Row 3. 

SIZE M/L stop here

Row 8 (RS): Rep Row 4.

Row 9 (WS): Rep Row 5.

SIZES L/1X and 1X/2X stop here

Row 10 (RS): Rep Row 6.

Row 11 (WS): Rep Row 3.

SIZES 2X/3X, 3X/4X stop here

Row 12 (RS): Rep Row 4.

Row 13 (WS): Rep Row 5.

SIZE 4X/5X stop here

ALL SIZES: Working yarn is now at what will become the bottom edge of sweater for all sizes.

RIGHT ARMHOLE:
(Left-Handed: Left Armhole)

SIZES S/M, L/1X, 1X/2X, and 4X/5X Only

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, dc in 2nd st, ch 2, [dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, ch 2] 27 (-, 25, 25, -, -, 23) times, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc2tog over next 2 sts; turn. [27 (-, 25, 25, -, -, 23) dc3tog, 4 dc]

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in each ch2sp across to last 2 sts, sk next dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn. [27 (-, 25, 25, -, -, 23) 3dcClusters, 2 dc]

Row 3 (RS): Ch 4, dc3tog over first 3dcCluster, *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * across to tch, ch 1, dc into top of tch; turn.

Row 4 (WS): Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc (base of ch-3), sk ch1sp, 3 dc in each ch2sp across, ending with 2 dc into 3rd ch of tch; turn. 

SIZE S/M stop here

Row 5 (RS): Ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, *dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, ch 2; rep from * to last 2 sts, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn. 

Row 6 (WS): Ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in each ch2sp across to last 2 sts, sk next dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn.

SIZES L/1X, 1X/2X stop here

Row 7 (RS): Ch 4, dc3tog over first 3dcCluster, *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * across to tch, ch 1, dc into top of tch; turn. 

Row 8 (WS): Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc (base of ch-3), sk ch1sp, 3 dc in each ch2sp across, ending with 2 dc into 3rd ch of tch; turn.

Row 9 (RS): Ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, *dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, ch 2; rep from * to last 2 sts, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn.

Row 10 (WS): Ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in each ch2sp across to last 2 sts, sk next dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn.

SIZES M/L, 2X/3X, and 3X/4X only:

Row 1 (RS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch1sp), [dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, ch 2] - (26, -, -, 25, 24, -) times, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, ch 1, dc in first st of next 3dcCluster; turn, leaving remaining sts unworked. [- (27, -, -, 26, 25, -) dc3tog, 2 dc]

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, dc in first dc (base of ch-3), sk ch1sp, 3 dc in each ch2sp across, ending with 2 dc into 3rd ch of tch; turn. [- (26, -, -, 25, 24, -) 3dcClusters, 4 dc)

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, *dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, ch 2; rep from * to last 2 sts, 1 dc in next  dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn. 

Row 4 (WS): Ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in each ch2sp across to last 2 sts, sk next dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn.

SIZE M/L stop here

Row 5 (RS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, 1 ch1sp), dc3tog over first 3dcCluster, *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * across to tch, ch 1, dc into top of tch; turn.

Row 6 (WS): Ch 3, dc in first dc (base of ch-3), sk ch1sp, 3 dc in each ch2sp across, ending with 2 dc into 3rd ch of tch; turn.

Row 7 (RS): Ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, *dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, ch 2; rep from * to last 2 sts, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn.

Row 8 (WS): Ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in each ch2sp across to last 2 sts, sk next dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn.

SIZE 2X/3X stop here

Row 9 (RS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, 1 ch1sp), dc3tog over first 3dcCluster, *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * across to tch, ch 1, dc into top of tch; turn.

Row 10 (WS): Ch 3, dc in first dc (base of ch-3), sk ch1sp, 3 dc in each ch2sp across, ending with 2 dc into 3rd ch of tch; turn.

SIZES M/L, L/1X, 1X/2X, 2X/3X, 4X/5X only:

Last Armhole Row (RS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, 1 ch1sp), dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * across to tch, ch 1, dc into top of tch; ch - (30, 36, 36, 33, -, 42); turn. [-(27, 25, 25, 26, -, 23) dc3tog, 2 dc, -(30, 36, 36, 33, -, 42) chs]

Armhole should now contain - (5, 7, 7, 9, -, 11) rows.

SIZES S/M and 3X/4X only:

Last Armhole Row (RS): Ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, *dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, ch 2; rep from * across to last dc before tch, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in top of tch; ch 26 (-, -, -, -, 32, -); turn. [27 (-, -, -, -25, -) dc3tog, 4 dc, 26 (-, -, -, -, 32, -) chs]

Armhole should now contain 5 (-, -, -, -, 11, -) rows.

RIGHT FRONT:
(Left-Handed: Left Front)

SIZES S/M and 3X/4X only:

3 rows are worked for these sizes so they can “catch up” and all sizes will have the same set of instructions for the remainder of Left Front.

Row 1 / Beginning Front Row (WS): Sk 3 ch (counts as 1 dc), dc in each ch until arm inset is reached; (remainder of row is worked into Last Armhole Row), dc in first dc, sk next dc, 3 dc in each ch2sp across to last 2 sts, sk next st, 1 dc into top of tch; turn. [25 (-, -, -, -, 31, -) dc at beginning of row, 28 (-, -, -, -, 26, -) 3dcClusters, 2 dc at end of row]. Working yarn should now be at bottom of sweater.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, 1 ch1sp), dc3tog over first 3dcCluster, *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * across to tch, dc into top of tch; turn.

Row 3 (WS): Ch 3, dc in first dc (base of ch-3), sk ch1sp, 3 dc in each ch2sp across to tch, 2 dc into 3rd ch of tch; turn. 

SIZES M/L, L/1X, 1X/2X, 2X/3X, and 4X/5X only:

Beginning Front Row (WS): Sk 3 ch (counts as 1 dc), dc in each ch until arm inset is reached; (remainder of row is worked into Last Armhole Row), dc in first dc, sk ch1sp, 3 dc in each ch2sp across; ending with 2 dc into third ch of tch; turn. [- (29, 35, 35, 32, -, 41) dc at beginning of row, - (26, 24, 24, 25, -, 22) 3dcClusters, 2 dc at end of row). Working yarn should now be at bottom of sweater.

ALL SIZES:

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * in each 3dcCluster, **ch 2, dc3tog over next 3 dc; rep from ** until 2 dc remain, ch 1, dc in next dc, dc into top of tch; turn. (35 dc3tog, 4 dc)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, 3 dc in each ch2sp across to tch, 1 dc into top of tch; turn. 

Row 3 (RS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, 1 ch1sp), dc3tog over first 3dcCluster, *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * across to tch, dc into top of tch; turn.

Row 4 (WS): Ch 3, dc in first dc (base of ch-3), sk ch1sp, 3 dc in each ch2sp across to tch, 2 dc into 3rd ch of tch; turn. 

Row 5 (RS): Ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, *dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, ch 2; rep from * across to last 2 sts, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn. 

Rep Rows 2-5  one (two, two, two, two, two, three) times more. 

SIZE 4X/5X stop here

Rep Row 2 once more. 

SIZES M/L, L/1X, and 3X/4X stop here

Rep Row 3 once more.

SIZES 1X/2X and 2X/3X stop here

Rep Row 4 once more.

SIZE S/M stop here

Right Front should now contain 15 (15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 18) rows. Right-Handed: Fasten off. Left-Handed: If desired, place marker in live stitch and keep yarn attached for border section. If this is cumbersome, fasten off and reattach later. 

LEFT BACK/ARMHOLE/FRONT:
(Left-Handed: Right Back/Armhole/Front)

With RS facing, attach yarn in top corner by neck. 

Repeat Right Back/Armhole/Front. Note that the RS/WS designations of each row will be reversed. The RS of the Granny Squares dictate the RS of the cardigan.

Left Front should now contain 15 (15, 15, 16, 16, 17, 18) rows. Right-Handed: If desired, place marker in live loop and keep yarn attached for border section. If this is cumbersome, fasten off and reattach later. Left-Handed: Fasten off.

Joining Shoulders

Gently steam block sweater before joining shoulders. Do not touch iron/steamer to yarn while blocking.

With RS facing in and WS facing out, pin sweater fronts to sweater back at shoulders. Beginning from shoulder and working toward neck, slst to join front to back. Rep on second side. Fasten off.

We're Almost Done!

In Part 4 of the Revival Cardigan casual crochet along we're going to crochet our sleeves, attach the hood and pockets and work a quick finishing border. Go to Part 4 here!

If you'd like to have the entire pattern and all tutorial images in one place, you can access the full pattern right now in the ad-free, printable PDF.

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