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    Home » Cardigans

    Updated: Jan 31, 2024 by Jess Coppom ·

    Adjustable Crochet Cropped Cardigan – Free Pattern

    5.0K shares

    This easy, cropped crochet cardigan pattern uses bamboo yarn and basic stitches to create an essential wardrobe piece. Modify the length, skip the buttons, but whatever you do, don’t miss the chance to make your next favorite toss-on cardi.

    The free cropped sweater crochet pattern is below, or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF.

    A woman wearing a bright yellow cropped cardigan with four wooden buttons.

    This cropped cardigan pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.

    Jump to:
    • Adjustable Cropped Crochet Cardigan Pattern
    • Crochet Techniques to Know
    • How to Modify Your Cardigan
    • My Favorite Lightweight Sweater Yarn
    • All-in-One Crochet Kit
    • Print this Pattern
    • Yarrow Cardigan – Free Pattern
    • Invitation to our Facebook group

    Adjustable Cropped Crochet Cardigan Pattern

    Simple, seamless, and adaptable! You’ll love this cropped cardigan if you dislike weaving in ends as much as I do. Because the sweater is worked in one piece, you won’t have anything to seam at the end.

    Keep reading for more yarn and inspiration details, or jump down to the free pattern.

    Woman wearing a yellow shorter crocheted cardigan.

    Full body portrait of a woman modeling a cropped crochet cardigan.

    Why you’ll love this cardigan pattern!


    • Seamless: Make it in one easy piece
    • Adjustable: Lengthen it or shorten it with provided instructions
    • Four-season wear: Light enough to enjoy year-round

    Crochet Techniques to Know

    As far as crochet sweater patterns go, this one is very straightforward. Even if you’re a garment beginner, this cropped cardi is a really doable option.

    Here are the skills you’ll practice:

    • Meeting the pattern gauge
    • Single crochet (sc)
    • Double crochet (dc)
    • Slip stitch (sl st)
    • Decreasing
    • Crochet ribbing
    • Working in the round
    • Creating buttonholes
    • Weaving in ends (just a few, I promise)

    Definitely check out our beginner’s guide to crocheting sweaters if this is your first clothing pattern.

    How to Modify Your Cardigan

    There are lots of ways to easily adjust this pattern to ensure it fits your body and creative vision. Here are a few ideas:

    • Make it more cropped: Work fewer rows in the main body section for a shorter cardigan. This means you’ll move onto dividing for the armholes sooner.
    • Make it longer: Similarly, add additional rows in the main body section until you’re happy with the length, then divide for the armholes.
    • Eliminate the buttons: If you know you’ll never use the buttons, you can easily nix the buttons by skipping the buttonholes in the collar ribbing section.
    A skein of Lion Brand Truboo laying on top of a crocheted tunic made from the same yarn.
    We also used Truboo in this summer crochet tunic pattern.

    My Favorite Lightweight Sweater Yarn

    We love to crochet chunky cardigans around here, but it’s not always practical. When I want to make summer shirts and tops or lightweight cardigans, I love to use a DK-weight natural fiber like cotton or bamboo.

    Lion Brand Truboo is one of my favorites because it’s incredibly soft and drapey. It’s a blend of bamboo and viscose, so it’s breezy and breathable. To crochet the Yarrow Cardigan pattern, you’ll need five to nine skeins of Truboo or similar yarn, depending on your sweater size.

    If Truboo isn’t available near you, check yarnsub.com for substitution ideas.

    A woman wearing a cropped crochet sweater smiling over her shoulder.

    All-in-One Crochet Kit

    If you struggle to find yarn locally or you just like to get fun packages in the mail, the all-in-one kit is a perfect way to make your Yarrow Cardigan. This bundle from Lion Brand includes all the Truboo you’ll need, plus a bonus printable PDF of the pattern (delivered digitally).

    • Deliver it! Purchase an all-in-one crochet kit
    Preview of printable Yarrow cropped cardigan crochet pdf pattern.

    Print this Pattern

    Prefer to crochet on the couch? Need a portable, printable pattern? You’ll love the premium PDF! The instantly downloadable, ad-free file is formatted for easy printing and includes the complete pattern and several high-quality photos.

    Upgrade to the Printable PDF


    formatted for effortless printing and relaxing couch crocheting

    A grid of four colorful crochet projects made with Lion Brand Mandala yarn.
    Get the printable PDF

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    Yarrow Cardigan – Free Pattern

    • Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF on our shop here.
    • Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF on Etsy here.
    • Save this pattern to your Ravelry here.
    • Pin this pattern for later here.

    Supplies + Materials

     • Lion Brand Truboo (Weight: 3 / light- 241 yds, 3.5 oz / 100 g)
    – Goldenrod (#837-187) – 511 (559, 593, 646, 680, 767, 815, 870, 910) g

     • Tapestry needle (aka a yarn needle)

     • Size G (4.0 mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge

     • Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge

     • 6 stitch markers

     • (4) 1” wooden buttons

    Sweater Sizes

    SizeSweater Width
    (laid flat across the bust)
    Sweater Length (shoulder to bottom)# of skeins required
    XS 18″17.5″6
    S20.5″186
    M22″19″6
    L24.5″19.5″7
    XL26″19.5″7
    2XL28.5″21.5″8
    3XL30.5″21.5″9
    4XL32.5″23″9
    5XL34.5″23″10

    Sizing Guide: The sample pictured is a size medium on a 5’9” model with a 38” bust. The cropped cardigan is meant to fit with between 6” and 10” of positive ease at the bust. For a tighter fit, size down.

    Gauge

    Main Body: 14 sts x 13 rows = 4” as worked in stitch pattern using larger hook

    Ribbing: 15 rows = 4” using smaller hook

    Abbreviations + Glossary (US Terms)

    ch – chain
    dc – double crochet
    PM – place marker
    rep – repeat
    RS – right side
    sc – single crochet
    scblo – single crochet through the back loop of stitch only
    sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together
    sk – skip
    slst – slip stitch
    sp – space
    st – stitch
    tch – turning chain
    WS – wrong side

    Skill Level

    Confident Advanced Beginner


    Permissions + Copyright:
    Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back this post. Do NOT use our photos as your own sales photos.


    Overall Pattern Notes

    • Pattern is written in the smallest size (XS) with sizes S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL following in parentheses: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL).
    • Ch 1 does not count as a stitch throughout.
    • The knit look ribbing is worked first and then turned sideways. The main body is worked across the long edge of the strip of ribbing.
    • The sleeve and bottom ribbing is crocheted using a smaller hook. The cardigan, sleeves, and collar ribbing are made with a larger hook.
    A mustard-colored crochet cropped cardigan laying flat.

    Print This Pattern: purchase the ad-free, printable PDF

    !! Gauge Check !!

    Please don’t skip this step or you will risk your cropped cardigan not fitting as
    expected.

    With larger hook:

    Foundation Row: Ch 36.

    Row 1 (RS): Row 1(WS): Ch 1, sc in first st, *dc in next st, sc in next st, rep from * to end of row; turn. (36 sts)

    Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row; turn.

    Repeat Row 2 until you have worked 20 rows total. Fasten off.

    Measure the center four inches of swatch vertically and horizontally. Compare to pattern gauge listed above. If there are too many stitches in 4” horizontally, increase your hook size and re-swatch. If there aren’t enough stitches in 4” horizontally, decrease your hook size and re-swatch.

    Bottom Ribbing

    For shorter ribbing around the bottom of your crochet cropped cardigan, decrease the number of stitches in the foundation chain.

    With smaller hook:

    Foundation Row: Ch 25.

    Row 1: Sc in each ch to end of row; turn. (24 sts)

    Row 2: Ch 1, scblo in each st to end of row; turn.

    Repeat Row 2 until you have worked 140 (158, 172, 190, 202, 220, 241, 252, 270) rows.

    Do not fasten off.

    Premium PDF

    easier and faster with fewer mistakes.


    • Complete pattern + photo tutorials
    • Instant download
    • Formatted for easy printing
    purchase the PDF

    Main Body of Sweater

    With larger hook and attached yarn:
    Foundation Row (RS): Ch 1, *sc in top of next 7 rows of ribbing, sk 1 row, rep from * to end of ribbing; turn. (123 (139, 151, 167, 177, 193, 211, 221, 237) sts)

    Row 1 (WS): Row 1(WS): Ch 1, sc in first st, *dc in next st, sc in next st, rep from * to end of row; turn. Place a marker in this row to help keep track of the WS of sweater as you work. This will become important when dividing for the armholes.

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    Repeat Row 1 until piece measures 10 (10, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13, 13)”, including ribbing, ending with a WS row.

    To modify the length of your cardigan, add or eliminate rows before dividing for armholes. If you adjust the length, be sure to end with a WS row.

    Do not fasten off.

    Divide for armholes

    With larger hook and RS facing:

    Right front: Count 27 (31, 33, 37, 39, 43, 47, 49, 53) sts from right front edge and PM.

    Underarm: Then count 6 (6, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10) sts from first marker and PM.

    Left front: Count 27 (31, 33, 37, 39, 43, 47, 49, 53) sts from left front edge and PM.

    Underarm: Then count 6 (6, 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10) sts from first marker and PM.

    Back: There should be 57 (65, 69, 77, 83, 91, 97, 103, 111) sts between the second and third markers.

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    Right Front

    We’re now working in shorter rows that will create the right cardigan front.
    Decreases at the beginning of each RS row create a tapered neckline.

    Note: Left-handed crocheters will create their Left Front panel first. Follow the
    directions below, but keep in mind that this will be your Left Front instead of Right Front..

    With larger hook and attached yarn:

    Row 1 (RS dec): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to first marked st (last st is into marked st); turn. (26 (30, 32, 36, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52) sts)

    Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * until 2 sts remain, sc in each of last 2 sts; turn.

    Row 3 (RS dec): Ch 1, sc2tog, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row; turn. (25 (29, 31, 35, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51) sts)

    Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row; turn.

    Repeat Rows 1-4 two (three, three, three, three, four, four, four, four) more times. (21(23, 25, 29, 31, 33, 37, 39, 43) sts)

    Row 13 (17, 17, 17, 17, 21, 21, 21, 21) (RS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row; turn

    Repeat Row 13 (17, 17, 17, 17, 21, 21, 21, 21) eleven (nine, nine, eleven, eleven, nine, nine, eleven, eleven) more times, ending with a WS row. You should now have 24 (26, 26, 28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32) rows of your front panel after the armhole split.

    Fasten off leaving 24” long tail for seaming shoulders.

    Back

    With RS facing, join yarn to the first unmarked st after the second marker from the right side (left side for left-handed crocheters). This means you’re attaching the yarn near the right (left) front that was just completed (after skipping the armhole stitches). Back is created in stitches between second and third markers.

    Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to stitch just before next marker; turn. (57 (65, 69, 77, 83, 91, 97, 103, 111) sts)

    Repeat Row 1 until you have worked 24 (26, 26, 28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32) rows total in the back panel after the split. You should be ending with a WS row. Fasten off.

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    Left Front

    With RS facing, join yarn at last marked st closest to left front (right front for
    left-handed crocheters, and this will be your Right Front section) edge.

    Row 1 (RS dec): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * until 2 sts remain, sctog; turn. (26 (30, 32, 36, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52) sts)

    Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first 2 sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row; turn.

    Row 3 (RS dec): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * until 2 sts remain, sc2tog; turn. (25 (29, 31, 35, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51) sts)

    Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row: turn.

    Repeat Rows 1-4 two (three, three, three, three, four, four, four, four) more times. (21(23, 25, 29, 31, 33, 37, 39, 43) sts)

    Row 13 (17, 17, 17, 17, 21, 21, 21, 21) (RS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row; turn

    Repeat Row 13 (17, 17, 17, 17, 21, 21, 21, 21) eleven (nine, nine, eleven, eleven, nine, nine, eleven, eleven) more times, ending with a WS row. You should now have 24 (26, 26, 28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32) rows of your front panel after the split.

    Fasten off leaving 24” tail for seaming shoulders.

    Seaming Shoulders

    With right sides facing, align the front panels against the back panel. There should be 15 (19, 19, 19, 21, 25, 23, 25, 25) sts along the back neck edge that are left unworked. Make sure the outside corners match up evenly.

    Using the smaller hook and existing yarn tails, slip stitch to join both fronts to the back.

    Sleeves

    Sleeves are worked directly into armholes using turned rounds. Notes are provided below to modify the sleeve length if desired.

    Make 2.

    With RS facing, join yarn in the middle of the 2 underarm markers.
    Foundation Round (RS): Ch 1, sc in each unworked underarm st, sc into the end of each row to shoulder seam, sc into the shoulder seam, sc in the end of each row back down to the underarm, sc in remaining underarm sts, join with slst to first sc; turn. (55 (59, 61, 65, 65, 69, 71, 75, 75) sts)

    Round 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first st, *dc in next st, sc in next st, rep from * around, join with slst to first sc; turn.

    Round 2 (RS dec): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next st, rep from * until 2 sts remain, sc2tog, join with slst to first sc; turn. (53 (57, 59, 63, 63, 67, 69, 73, 73) sts)

    Round 3 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, sc in next sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from *around, until 2 sts remain, sc in last 2 sts, join with slst to first sc; turn.

    Round 4 (RS): Repeat Round 3.

    Round 5 (WS): Repeat Round 3.

    Round 6 (RS dec): Ch 1, sc2tog, dc in next dc, sc in next sc, dc in next dc, rep from until 2 sts remain, sc2tog, join with slst to first sc; turn. (51 (55, 57, 61, 61, 65, 67, 71, 71) sts)

    Round 7 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from *to end of round, join with slst to first sc; turn.

    Round 8 (RS): Repeat Round 7.

    Round 9 (WS): Repeat Round 7.

    Repeat Rounds 2-9 four (five, five, five, five, six, six, six, six) more times. (35 (35, 37, 41, 41, 41, 43, 47, 47) sts)

    Sizes XS – XL only: Repeat Rounds 1-5 one more time. (33 (33, 35, 39, 39, -, -, -, -) sts) For shorter sleeves, repeat Rounds 1-2 only. For longer sleeves, work additional rounds without decreasing, ending on a WS round.

    At this point, the sleeve should contain 47 (55, 55, 55, 55, 58, 58, 58, 58) rounds.

    Final Round: (for sizes XS-XL, this will be a RS dec; for all remaining sizes it will be a WS dec).

    Sleeve Ribbing

    Ribbing is worked perpendicular to sleeves and joined to the sleeve as you crochet.

    With attached yarn and smaller hook:

    Foundation Row: Ch 14.

    Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook, sc in each of next 12 ch, slst in each of next two unworked sts of sleeve edge; turn. (13 sts)

    Row 2 (WS): Scblo in first st, sc in each of next 12 sts; turn.

    Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each st to end of row, slst in next two unworked sts of sleeve edge; turn.

    Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have worked (22 (22, 28, 33, 33, 33, 36, 36, 36) rows.

    Fasten off leaving a 16” tail to seam cuff.

    Seaming Cuff

    With RS together, use existing yarn tail and a tapestry needle to seam sleeve ribbing together.

    Repeat entire sleeve process in second armhole.

    Button holes on in the collar ribbing of a crochet cardigan.
    Omit the buttonholes in the collar ribbing if you don’t plan to attach buttons.

    Collar Ribbing

    Even though the rest of the ribbing is done with smaller hook, you will use larger hook for collar ribbing to prevent puckering of main body of sweater.

    As written, collar ribbing includes four buttonholes. If buttons aren’t desired, replace these rows with a Row 1 instead.

    Join yarn at bottom of left front. With WS facing and larger hook:

    Foundation Row (WS)

    Working in bottom ribbing left front: Ch 1, scblo in each sc of bottom ribbing…

    Working up left front: Sc in first row edge, 2 sc in next row edge, *sc in next row edge, 2 sc in next row edge, rep from * to shoulder seam…

    Working across back neck: 1 sc in shoulder seam, 2 sc in next st, sc in each along back neck, 2 sc in last st before right shoulder seam…

    Working down right front: Sc in first row edge, *2 sc in next row edge, sc in next row edge, rep from * to beginning of bottom ribbing…

    Working in bottom ribbing right front: Scblo in each sc of bottom ribbing; turn.

    The stitch count for the foundation row does not need to be a specific number. What is important is that the row lays flat and sweater fronts drape smoothly, so modify the stitch frequency if needed.

    Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each sc to end of row; turn.

    Row 2-4: Repeat Row 1.

    Row 5 (RS buttonhole row): Ch 1, scblo in first four sc, *ch 2, sk 2 sts, scblo in next 12 sts, rep from * three more times, scblo in each sc to end of row; turn. (4 buttonholes made)

    Row 6 (WS): Ch 1, scblo in each sc to first ch-2 sp, *sc in each ch, scblo in next 12 st, rep from * 3 more times, sc in last four sts; turn.

    Rows 7-10: Repeat Row 1.

    Row 11 (RS): Ch 1, slst, in first sc and in each sc to end of row.

    Fasten off and weave in any remaining ends.

    Close up of buttons and buttonholes on a crocheted cardigan.

    Finishing

    Blocking: Block your sweater by laying it flat and directing steam at it from an iron or steamer. Avoid touching the heat source to the yarn. Learn more about blocking.

    Adding Buttons: Using thread that matches button color, sew buttons in place
    opposite from buttonholes.

    Feel proud as you layer your comfy new cardi over a sundress, a turtleneck–or your pajamas!

    Did you try this?


    Leave a ★ review and tag @MakeAndDoCrew on Instagram and Facebook!

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