This easy, cropped crochet cardigan pattern uses bamboo yarn and basic stitches to create an essential wardrobe piece. Modify the length, skip the buttons, but whatever you do, don’t miss the chance to make your next favorite toss-on cardi.
The free cropped sweater crochet pattern is below, or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF.
This cropped cardigan pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.
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Adjustable Cropped Crochet Cardigan Pattern
Simple, seamless, and adaptable! You’ll love this cropped cardigan if you dislike weaving in ends as much as I do. Because the sweater is worked in one piece, you won’t have anything to seam at the end.
Keep reading for more yarn and inspiration details, or jump down to the free pattern.
Why you’ll love this cardigan pattern!
Crochet Techniques to Know
As far as crochet sweater patterns go, this one is very straightforward. Even if you’re a garment beginner, this cropped cardi is a really doable option.
Here are the skills you’ll practice:
- Meeting the pattern gauge
- Single crochet (sc)
- Double crochet (dc)
- Slip stitch (sl st)
- Decreasing
- Crochet ribbing
- Working in the round
- Creating buttonholes
- Weaving in ends (just a few, I promise)
Definitely check out our beginner’s guide to crocheting sweaters if this is your first clothing pattern.
How to Modify Your Cardigan
There are lots of ways to easily adjust this pattern to ensure it fits your body and creative vision. Here are a few ideas:
My Favorite Lightweight Sweater Yarn
We love to crochet chunky cardigans around here, but it’s not always practical. When I want to make summer shirts and tops or lightweight cardigans, I love to use a DK-weight natural fiber like cotton or bamboo.
Lion Brand Truboo is one of my favorites because it’s incredibly soft and drapey. It’s a blend of bamboo and viscose, so it’s breezy and breathable. To crochet the Yarrow Cardigan pattern, you’ll need five to nine skeins of Truboo or similar yarn, depending on your sweater size.
If Truboo isn’t available near you, check yarnsub.com for substitution ideas.
All-in-One Crochet Kit
If you struggle to find yarn locally or you just like to get fun packages in the mail, the all-in-one kit is a perfect way to make your Yarrow Cardigan. This bundle from Lion Brand includes all the Truboo you’ll need, plus a bonus printable PDF of the pattern (delivered digitally).
Print this Pattern
Prefer to crochet on the couch? Need a portable, printable pattern? You’ll love the premium PDF! The instantly downloadable, ad-free file is formatted for easy printing and includes the complete pattern and several high-quality photos.
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Yarrow Cardigan – Free Pattern
Supplies + Materials
• Lion Brand Truboo (Weight: 3 / light- 241 yds, 3.5 oz / 100 g)
– Goldenrod (#837-187) – 511 (559, 593, 646, 680, 767, 815, 870, 910) g
• Tapestry needle (aka a yarn needle)
• Size G (4.0 mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge
• Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook or size to obtain gauge
• (4) 1” wooden buttons
Sweater Sizes
| Size | Sweater Width (laid flat across the bust) | Sweater Length (shoulder to bottom) | # of skeins required |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 18″ | 17.5″ | 6 |
| S | 20.5″ | 18 | 6 |
| M | 22″ | 19″ | 6 |
| L | 24.5″ | 19.5″ | 7 |
| XL | 26″ | 19.5″ | 7 |
| 2XL | 28.5″ | 21.5″ | 8 |
| 3XL | 30.5″ | 21.5″ | 9 |
| 4XL | 32.5″ | 23″ | 9 |
| 5XL | 34.5″ | 23″ | 10 |
Sizing Guide: The sample pictured is a size medium on a 5’9” model with a 38” bust. The cropped cardigan is meant to fit with between 6” and 10” of positive ease at the bust. For a tighter fit, size down.
Gauge
Main Body: 14 sts x 13 rows = 4” as worked in stitch pattern using larger hook
Ribbing: 15 rows = 4” using smaller hook
Abbreviations + Glossary (US Terms)
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
PM – place marker
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
scblo – single crochet through the back loop of stitch only
sc2tog – single crochet two stitches together
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch
sp – space
st – stitch
tch – turning chain
WS – wrong side
Skill Level
Confident Advanced Beginner
Permissions + Copyright:
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back this post. Do NOT use our photos as your own sales photos.
Overall Pattern Notes
- Pattern is written in the smallest size (XS) with sizes S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL and 5XL following in parentheses: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL).
- Ch 1 does not count as a stitch throughout.
- The knit look ribbing is worked first and then turned sideways. The main body is worked across the long edge of the strip of ribbing.
- The sleeve and bottom ribbing is crocheted using a smaller hook. The cardigan, sleeves, and collar ribbing are made with a larger hook.
Print This Pattern: purchase the ad-free, printable PDF
!! Gauge Check !!
Please don’t skip this step or you will risk your cropped cardigan not fitting as
expected.
With larger hook:
Foundation Row: Ch 36.
Row 1 (RS): Row 1(WS): Ch 1, sc in first st, *dc in next st, sc in next st, rep from * to end of row; turn. (36 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row; turn.
Repeat Row 2 until you have worked 20 rows total. Fasten off.
Measure the center four inches of swatch vertically and horizontally. Compare to pattern gauge listed above. If there are too many stitches in 4” horizontally, increase your hook size and re-swatch. If there aren’t enough stitches in 4” horizontally, decrease your hook size and re-swatch.
Bottom Ribbing
For shorter ribbing around the bottom of your crochet cropped cardigan, decrease the number of stitches in the foundation chain.
With smaller hook:
Foundation Row: Ch 25.
Row 1: Sc in each ch to end of row; turn. (24 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, scblo in each st to end of row; turn.
Repeat Row 2 until you have worked 140 (158, 172, 190, 202, 220, 241, 252, 270) rows.
Do not fasten off.
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Main Body of Sweater
With larger hook and attached yarn:
Foundation Row (RS): Ch 1, *sc in top of next 7 rows of ribbing, sk 1 row, rep from * to end of ribbing; turn. (123 (139, 151, 167, 177, 193, 211, 221, 237) sts)
Row 1 (WS): Row 1(WS): Ch 1, sc in first st, *dc in next st, sc in next st, rep from * to end of row; turn. Place a marker in this row to help keep track of the WS of sweater as you work. This will become important when dividing for the armholes.
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Right Front
We’re now working in shorter rows that will create the right cardigan front.
Decreases at the beginning of each RS row create a tapered neckline.
Note: Left-handed crocheters will create their Left Front panel first. Follow the
directions below, but keep in mind that this will be your Left Front instead of Right Front..
With larger hook and attached yarn:
Row 1 (RS dec): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to first marked st (last st is into marked st); turn. (26 (30, 32, 36, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52) sts)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * until 2 sts remain, sc in each of last 2 sts; turn.
Row 3 (RS dec): Ch 1, sc2tog, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row; turn. (25 (29, 31, 35, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51) sts)
Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row; turn.
Repeat Rows 1-4 two (three, three, three, three, four, four, four, four) more times. (21(23, 25, 29, 31, 33, 37, 39, 43) sts)
Row 13 (17, 17, 17, 17, 21, 21, 21, 21) (RS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row; turn
Repeat Row 13 (17, 17, 17, 17, 21, 21, 21, 21) eleven (nine, nine, eleven, eleven, nine, nine, eleven, eleven) more times, ending with a WS row. You should now have 24 (26, 26, 28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32) rows of your front panel after the armhole split.
Fasten off leaving 24” long tail for seaming shoulders.
Back
With RS facing, join yarn to the first unmarked st after the second marker from the right side (left side for left-handed crocheters). This means you’re attaching the yarn near the right (left) front that was just completed (after skipping the armhole stitches). Back is created in stitches between second and third markers.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to stitch just before next marker; turn. (57 (65, 69, 77, 83, 91, 97, 103, 111) sts)
Repeat Row 1 until you have worked 24 (26, 26, 28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32) rows total in the back panel after the split. You should be ending with a WS row. Fasten off.
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Left Front
With RS facing, join yarn at last marked st closest to left front (right front for
left-handed crocheters, and this will be your Right Front section) edge.
Row 1 (RS dec): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * until 2 sts remain, sctog; turn. (26 (30, 32, 36, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52) sts)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first 2 sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row; turn.
Row 3 (RS dec): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * until 2 sts remain, sc2tog; turn. (25 (29, 31, 35, 37, 41, 45, 47, 51) sts)
Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row: turn.
Repeat Rows 1-4 two (three, three, three, three, four, four, four, four) more times. (21(23, 25, 29, 31, 33, 37, 39, 43) sts)
Row 13 (17, 17, 17, 17, 21, 21, 21, 21) (RS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from * to end of row; turn
Repeat Row 13 (17, 17, 17, 17, 21, 21, 21, 21) eleven (nine, nine, eleven, eleven, nine, nine, eleven, eleven) more times, ending with a WS row. You should now have 24 (26, 26, 28, 28, 30, 30, 32, 32) rows of your front panel after the split.
Fasten off leaving 24” tail for seaming shoulders.
Seaming Shoulders
With right sides facing, align the front panels against the back panel. There should be 15 (19, 19, 19, 21, 25, 23, 25, 25) sts along the back neck edge that are left unworked. Make sure the outside corners match up evenly.
Using the smaller hook and existing yarn tails, slip stitch to join both fronts to the back.
Sleeves
Sleeves are worked directly into armholes using turned rounds. Notes are provided below to modify the sleeve length if desired.
Make 2.
With RS facing, join yarn in the middle of the 2 underarm markers.
Foundation Round (RS): Ch 1, sc in each unworked underarm st, sc into the end of each row to shoulder seam, sc into the shoulder seam, sc in the end of each row back down to the underarm, sc in remaining underarm sts, join with slst to first sc; turn. (55 (59, 61, 65, 65, 69, 71, 75, 75) sts)
Round 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first st, *dc in next st, sc in next st, rep from * around, join with slst to first sc; turn.
Round 2 (RS dec): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next st, rep from * until 2 sts remain, sc2tog, join with slst to first sc; turn. (53 (57, 59, 63, 63, 67, 69, 73, 73) sts)
Round 3 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, sc in next sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from *around, until 2 sts remain, sc in last 2 sts, join with slst to first sc; turn.
Round 4 (RS): Repeat Round 3.
Round 5 (WS): Repeat Round 3.
Round 6 (RS dec): Ch 1, sc2tog, dc in next dc, sc in next sc, dc in next dc, rep from until 2 sts remain, sc2tog, join with slst to first sc; turn. (51 (55, 57, 61, 61, 65, 67, 71, 71) sts)
Round 7 (WS): Ch 1, sc in first sc, *dc in next dc, sc in next sc, rep from *to end of round, join with slst to first sc; turn.
Round 8 (RS): Repeat Round 7.
Round 9 (WS): Repeat Round 7.
Repeat Rounds 2-9 four (five, five, five, five, six, six, six, six) more times. (35 (35, 37, 41, 41, 41, 43, 47, 47) sts)
Sizes XS – XL only: Repeat Rounds 1-5 one more time. (33 (33, 35, 39, 39, -, -, -, -) sts) For shorter sleeves, repeat Rounds 1-2 only. For longer sleeves, work additional rounds without decreasing, ending on a WS round.
At this point, the sleeve should contain 47 (55, 55, 55, 55, 58, 58, 58, 58) rounds.
Final Round: (for sizes XS-XL, this will be a RS dec; for all remaining sizes it will be a WS dec).
Sleeve Ribbing
Ribbing is worked perpendicular to sleeves and joined to the sleeve as you crochet.
With attached yarn and smaller hook:
Foundation Row: Ch 14.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook, sc in each of next 12 ch, slst in each of next two unworked sts of sleeve edge; turn. (13 sts)
Row 2 (WS): Scblo in first st, sc in each of next 12 sts; turn.
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each st to end of row, slst in next two unworked sts of sleeve edge; turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have worked (22 (22, 28, 33, 33, 33, 36, 36, 36) rows.
Fasten off leaving a 16” tail to seam cuff.
Seaming Cuff
With RS together, use existing yarn tail and a tapestry needle to seam sleeve ribbing together.
Repeat entire sleeve process in second armhole.
Collar Ribbing
Even though the rest of the ribbing is done with smaller hook, you will use larger hook for collar ribbing to prevent puckering of main body of sweater.
As written, collar ribbing includes four buttonholes. If buttons aren’t desired, replace these rows with a Row 1 instead.
Join yarn at bottom of left front. With WS facing and larger hook:
Foundation Row (WS)
Working in bottom ribbing left front: Ch 1, scblo in each sc of bottom ribbing…
Working up left front: Sc in first row edge, 2 sc in next row edge, *sc in next row edge, 2 sc in next row edge, rep from * to shoulder seam…
Working across back neck: 1 sc in shoulder seam, 2 sc in next st, sc in each along back neck, 2 sc in last st before right shoulder seam…
Working down right front: Sc in first row edge, *2 sc in next row edge, sc in next row edge, rep from * to beginning of bottom ribbing…
Working in bottom ribbing right front: Scblo in each sc of bottom ribbing; turn.
The stitch count for the foundation row does not need to be a specific number. What is important is that the row lays flat and sweater fronts drape smoothly, so modify the stitch frequency if needed.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each sc to end of row; turn.
Row 2-4: Repeat Row 1.
Row 5 (RS buttonhole row): Ch 1, scblo in first four sc, *ch 2, sk 2 sts, scblo in next 12 sts, rep from * three more times, scblo in each sc to end of row; turn. (4 buttonholes made)
Row 6 (WS): Ch 1, scblo in each sc to first ch-2 sp, *sc in each ch, scblo in next 12 st, rep from * 3 more times, sc in last four sts; turn.
Rows 7-10: Repeat Row 1.
Row 11 (RS): Ch 1, slst, in first sc and in each sc to end of row.
Fasten off and weave in any remaining ends.
Finishing
Blocking: Block your sweater by laying it flat and directing steam at it from an iron or steamer. Avoid touching the heat source to the yarn. Learn more about blocking.
Adding Buttons: Using thread that matches button color, sew buttons in place
opposite from buttonholes.
Feel proud as you layer your comfy new cardi over a sundress, a turtleneck–or your pajamas!
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