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Revival Granny Square Cardigan – Part 2

Woman standing in a field of granny wearing a vintage style crochet granny square sweater similar to the cardigan Rebecca Pearson wore on This Is Us.

We’re moving on to seamlessly joining our crochet granny squares and making gauge swatches for the main sweater (which will later serve as pockets!)

Woman standing in a field of granny wearing a vintage style crochet granny square sweater similar to the cardigan Rebecca Pearson wore on This Is Us.
This join as you go granny square sweater is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.

Once you know how to join as you go, you’ll never look at a crochet motif the same way again. Let’s bring all your beautiful grannies together!

If you’re completely new to the Revival Cardigan pattern, you can find the main page with all the resources and free pattern info here.

Vibrant crochet granny squares being joined as you go.

Zero Extra Ends to Weave In

I hear often from crocheters that seaming is their least favorite part of the process of making a sweater. If you fall into the no-seams-no-way-no-how camp, you’re in luck because this sweater is joined together entirely with crocheting.

Today you’re going to see all your hard granny square work unified by adding granny stitch rounds to connect them all together. You’ll find a diagram below that shows a maze-like journey you’ll take to magically join your squares. Honestly, once you understand the potential of join as you go crochet, there’s no going back!

Woman standing in a field of granny wearing a vintage style crochet granny square sweater similar to the cardigan Rebecca Pearson wore on This Is Us.

What to Expect In Part 2

Since you’ve finished all your granny squares in Part 1 of the pattern, today you’re ready to join 12 squares into the back of your cardigan. Next, you’ll use the same technique to join your 12 remaining squares for the hood.

And we’ll end this week’s free pattern by crocheting the pockets for your sweater. Pockets? I know, it sounds kinda weird to jump ahead to a finishing touch, but hear me out on this.

It’s super important to work a gauge swatch when you’re crocheting a garment because this is what ensures it’ll fit like you expect. In this pattern, you can accomplish a double whammy by crocheting a pocket and using it to measure your pattern gauge. Pretty cool, huh? Then later on you’ll be able to pull out your gauge swatches and you’ll have already worked your finishing touches.

Want to Print the Pattern or Work At Your Own Pace?

As a reminder, you have the option to purchase the ad-free PDF of the complete pattern here. Not only does it include parts 1-4 of the pattern in one place, it’s formatted for easy printing and comes with some bonus charts and diagrams including a detailed map for joining the hood squares.

download the complete pattern immediately ⇨

Join As You Go Video Tutorial

The join as you go technique is one of those crochet things that is SO much easier to explain visually and verbally than to write it in a pattern. I did my best to explain each step clearly in the pattern below, but I think watching my joining video tutorial will be a really big help too.

Watch the join as you go crochet video tutorial here.


The Revival Cardigan
Free Pattern – Part 2

Purchase the complete pattern as an ad-free, printable PDF here on LoveCrafts or here on Etsy.

Save this pattern to Ravelry here.

Pin it for later here.

See Part 1 of the free pattern here.

Supplies:
• Yarn: Lion Brand Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling (Weight: 4/medium – 185 yds, 3.5 oz)
– Main Color (A): Olive (202-132) – 8 (9, 11, 11, 13, 14, 15) skeins [(approx. 775 (880, 1025, 1100, 1210, 1305, 1485) g)]

– Accent Colors (5 colors, 7 total skeins required for all sizes):
Ecru (202-098) – 2 skeins
Gold Heather (202-401) – 1 skein
Pomegranate (202-138) – 1 skein
Prism (202-142) – 2 skeins
Tan/White (202-603) – 1 skein

• Tapestry needle
Size J (5.75 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• Stitch markers or safety pins

Sizes / Fits Actual Bust:
Additional measurements included in the PDF.
S/M – 33″
M/L – 37″
L/1X – 41″
1X/2X – 45″
2X/3X – 49″
3X/4X – 53″
4X/5X – 57″

Sample pictured is a size M/L on a 5’9″ model with a 38″ bust. If in doubt, size up for a looser fit.

Gauge:
Each granny square after blocking (4 rounds) = 4.75”

Main Sweater: 9 rows x 5 clusters = 4”

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
3dcCluster – group of 3 dc (granny st)
ch(s) – chain(s)
ch1sp – space created by 1 ch
ch2sp – space created by 2 chs
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet 2 together (decrease)
dc3tog – double crochet 3 together (decrease)
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch                           
st(s) – stitch(es)
tch – turning chain
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over

Want some company while you crochet?
Get support (and camaraderie!) in the Make & Do Crochet Crew Facebook Group here.

Permissions + Copyright:
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back this post. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales photos.

JOINING SQUARES

Notes:
• Squares are joined using a join as you go method that creates zero extra ends to weave in. Hooray!

• Two rows of six granny squares are joined for the sweater back. Three rows of four granny squares are joined separately for the sweater hood. See photos at end of pattern for more details.

• Watch a video tutorial on this crochet joining method here.

Diagram showing the order in which to work crochet granny squares in order to join them seamlessly with no extra ends to weave in.

Sweater Back Grannies

Arrange squares as desired in two rows of six. Follow diagram above that maps out the path to join all 12 squares without fastening off. 

Attach Color A in bottom corner:
In Same Corner: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 2 dc in corner…

Along Next 3 Sides of Square: …3 dc in between each 3dcCl to next corner…

And In Second and Third Corners: …[3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc] all in corner sp…

In Fourth Corner: …3 dc, ch 2, (grab next granny square)…

In Second Granny Square:

In First Corner: …3 dc, ch 2…

Along First Side of Square: …*Remove loop from hook, insert hook from the top down in next space of first granny square (between 3dcClusters), pick up working loop, pull through space; 3 dc in next space of second square, ch 2; rep from * to corner…

Second Corner: …Remove loop from hook, insert hook from the top down in last space between 3dcClusters of first granny square, pick up working loop, pull through space, 3 dc in corner, ch 2, remove loop from hook, insert hook from the top down in adjacent corner of first granny square, pick up working loop, pull through space; 3 dc in same corner space of second granny square….

Second and Third Sides of Square and Third Corner: Work as sides/corner of square 1 were worked. 

Fourth Corner: Work as fourth corner of first square was worked. 

Repeat this joining process with 4 more squares. On sixth square, stop after second side is worked, just before 3rd corner (two sides will be unworked at this point). See diagram on p30.

Third Corner of Sixth Square: …3 dc, ch 2, (grab next granny square)…

Tutorial showing how to seamlessly join crochet granny square motifs as you go.

Joining Second Row of Grannies:

First Side of First Square: 3 dc, ch 2 in first corner, *remove loop from hook, insert hook from the top down in next space (between 3dcClusters) of adjacent granny square, pick up working loop, pull through space; 3 dc in next space on working square, ch 2; rep from * to corner…

Corner Join: …Remove loop from hook, insert hook from the top down in last space between 3dcClusters of adjacent granny square, pick up working loop, pull through space, 3 dc in corner of working square, ch 2, remove loop from hook, insert hook from the top down in nearest corner space of Row 1, pick up working loop, pull through space, slst into corner space of next square in Row 1, ch 2**, (grab next granny square to be joined on second row)…

Corner of Next Square: …3 dc in corner space, ch 2, rep from * to next corner…

Continue adding squares in this manner until row 2 contains 6 squares, ending at **… 

Finishing End of Row Corner: …3 dc in corner of 6th square, ch 2, remove loop from hook, insert hook from the top down in nearest corner space of Row 1, pick up working loop, pull through space, 3 dc in same corner of 6th square…

Tutorial showing how to seamlessly join crochet granny square motifs as you go.

Completing Joining Round:

Continue around the second row of squares as shown in diagram on p30. Place 3 dc between each 3dcCl and place [3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc] in each corner space, joining as you go in the same manner as before.

Next, work down the first half of unfinished short edge of 12-granny rectangle in the same manner. At intersection where Granny Rows 1 and 2 meet, work into corners as 3 dc in corner of first granny, ch 1, sl st in ch2sp between grannies of  first and second rows, ch 1, 3 dc in corner of next granny. Continue short edge with 3 dc between each 3dcCl to next corner. 

Tutorial showing how to seamlessly join crochet granny square motifs as you go.

Place [3 dc, ch 1, 3 dc] in next corner and finish final edge with 3 dc between each 3dcCluster and work each intersection between grannies as was done for intersection of Granny Rows 1 and 2. 

Final Corner Where Joining Began: 3 dc, ch 1, slst to 3rd chain to join. Do not fasten off. 

Tutorial showing how to seamlessly join crochet granny square motifs as you go.

Sweater Hood Grannies

Arrange squares as desired in three rows of four. See photo below. When arranging, consider which colors you’d prefer closest to your face and place those at the edges of your rows of four. Use same joining techniques as for Sweater Back Grannies to join all 12 squares.

If you’d like detailed visual instruction, follow the Hood diagram on p31 of the printable PDF that maps out the path to join all 12 squares without fastening off. 

Tutorial showing how to seamlessly join crochet granny square motifs as you go.

!! GAUGE CHECK !!

Follow instructions at below for crocheting one pocket. This will serve as your gauge swatch and later, a pocket. Once finished, measure center four inches of pocket vertically and horizontally. Compare to Main Sweater gauge listed above. Please don’t skip this step or you will risk your sweater not fitting as expected.

If there are too many stitches in 4” horizontally, increase your hook size and re-swatch. If there aren’t enough stitches in 4” horizontally, decrease your hook size and re-swatch.

POCKETS

Notes:
• Daisy Farm Crafts has a helpful video tutorial on the basics of this stitch here.

• If you’re a visual learner or less-experienced pattern reader, you may find it helpful to reference the stitch chart in the printable PDF. Purchase the PDF here.

Use color A throughout.

Left Pocket / Gauge Swatch

Foundation: Chain 28. 

Row 1 (RS): Sk first 3 ch (counts as 1 dc), dc into next ch, sk next 2 ch, *3 dc into next ch, sk next 2 ch; rep from * until 1 ch remains, 2 dc in last ch; turn. (7 3dcClusters, 4 dc)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, dc in 2nd st, ch 2, *dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, ch 2; rep from * to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts; turn. 

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, sk next dc, 3 dc in each ch2sp across to last 2 sts, sk next dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn. 

Row 4 (WS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc, 1 ch1sp), dc3tog over first 3dcCluster, *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * across to tch, ch 1, dc into top of tch; turn.

Row 5 (RS): Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc (base of ch-3), sk ch1sp, 3 dc in each ch2sp across, ending with 2 dc into 3rd ch of tch; turn. 

Row 6 (WS): Ch 3, 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, *dc3tog over next 3dcCluster, ch 2; rep from * to last 2 sts, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc into top of tch; turn. 

Rep Rows 3-6 once more. 

Rep Rows 3-4 once more. Pocket should now contain 12 rows. Do not fasten off.

When making the gauge swatch, stop here and measure. Follow instructions in Gauge Check section to adjust hook size if necessary. If gauge is measuring correctly, move on to finishing border.

With WS of pocket facing, Border is worked along raw edge of rectangle that is closest to attached yarn. This will become the top of the pocket.

Finishing Border Row 1: Ch 1, sc along raw row edges with a frequency of *2 sc in one row edge, 1 sc in next row edge; rep from * to end of rectangle side; turn.

Finishing Border Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc to end. Fasten off, leaving a 30” tail.

Right Pocket

When beginning Foundation Chain, wind up approx 4 yards of yarn to be reserved for pocket border and seaming. Do not cut yarn. Secure reserved yarn in a ball and then create a slip knot for your chain using the same strand of yarn. (Keeping this mini ball of yarn attached at the beginning of the chain prevents needing to reattach yarn later and saves two ends to weave in.)

Rep Rows 1-12 of Left Pocket. Note that for Right pocket, the WS of the rectangle will be attached to sweater facing out. This allows the pocket rows to match the RS/WS rows of the Right Sweater Front. Fasten off. 

With WS of pocket facing, Border is worked along raw edge of rectangle using yarn that was reserved at beginning of pocket. 

Rep Finishing Border Rows 1 and 2 of Left Pocket.

What Next In the Revival Cardigan?

Next we’ll work add the sweater sides to our strip of granny squares, create the armholes and crochet the sweater fronts. Then you’ll be able to try on your WIP (work in progress) and see how it’s coming along. (Always such an exciting moment!) Go to Part 3 of the Revival Cardigan here.

If you want to print the pattern and move along at your own pace, you can purchase ad-free, printable PDF and download the complete pattern + tutorials immediately.


1 Comment

  • Marcia
    April 23, 2020 at 1:14 pm

    please help
    purchased the pattern and received a confirmation number but it does not show up in my library

    Reply

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