Revival Granny Square Cardigan - Part 4

Woohoo! In the final stage of the Revival Cardigan casual crochet along we'll add sleeves, attach our granny square hoods and work some finishing details. Scroll down for the free pattern or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here.

This hooded crochet cardigan pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.

Woohoo! Your Revival Cardigan granny square sweater is SO close to being finished. In Part 4, we focus on transforming your vintage vest into a hip, hooded cardigan.

If you're completely new to the Revival Cardigan pattern, you can find the main page with all the resources and free pattern info here.

Share Your Sweaters!

One of the best parts of this casual crochet along for me personally has been seeing the fantastic colors and yarns you've chosen to make your Revival Cardigans. In an otherwise dark time in the world, witnessing your creativity has been so inspiring!

Now that you're wrapping up, I would love it if you shared a photo your sweater with other crocheters. Doing so can be so helpful to people considering making the pattern in the future.

Here are two ways to share:
• Upload your Revival Cardigan photos to the Ravelry page here.

• Share a photo on Instagram with the tag #RevivalCardigan.

What to Crochet Next?

This is the point in a project when I start to get itchy for a new pattern in the queue. If you are the same way, you might enjoy checking out the Habitat Cardigan, the Up North Cardigan or the Brunch Cardigan. All three of these patterns are on-trend, involve relatively little seaming and have some fun construction techniques.

You can also find all our free sweater crochet patterns here.

More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns

Crochet sweater patterns don't need to be difficult. In fact, most of ours are made with very simple shapes. Dive into the wonderful world of crochet garments with cardigans, pullovers, ponchos, shrugs and more!

See more free crochet sweater patterns →

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The Revival Cardigan
Free Pattern - Part 4

Purchase the complete pattern as an ad-free, printable PDF here on LoveCrafts or here on Etsy.

Save this pattern to Ravelry here.

Pin it for later here.

Additional sections of the free pattern: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3.

Supplies:
• Yarn: Lion Brand Basic Stitch Anti-Pilling (Weight: 4/medium - 185 yds, 3.5 oz)
- Main Color (A): Olive (202-132) – 8 (9, 11, 11, 13, 14, 15) skeins [(approx. 775 (880, 1025, 1100, 1210, 1305, 1485) g)]

- Accent Colors (5 colors, 7 total skeins required for all sizes):
• Ecru (202-098) – 2 skeins
• Gold Heather (202-401) – 1 skein
• Pomegranate (202-138) – 1 skein
• Prism (202-142) – 2 skeins
• Tan/White (202-603) – 1 skein

• Tapestry needle
• Size J (5.75 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
• Stitch markers or safety pins

Sizes / Fits Actual Bust:
Additional measurements included in the PDF.
S/M - 33"
M/L - 37"
L/1X - 41"
1X/2X - 45"
2X/3X - 49"
3X/4X - 53"
4X/5X - 57"

Sample pictured is a size M/L on a 5'9" model with a 38" bust. If in doubt, size up for a looser fit.

Gauge:
Each granny square after blocking (4 rounds) = 4.75”

Main Sweater: 9 rows x 5 clusters = 4”

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
3dcCluster – group of 3 dc (granny st)
ch(s) – chain(s)
ch1sp – space created by 1 ch
ch2sp – space created by 2 chs
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet 2 together (decrease)
dc3tog – double crochet 3 together (decrease)
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch                           
st(s) – stitch(es)
tch – turning chain
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over

Want some company while you crochet?
Get support (and camaraderie!) in the Make & Do Crochet Crew Facebook Group here.

Permissions + Copyright:
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back this post. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales photos.

Joining Hood

With RS of sweater facing up and WS of hood facing up, pin middle of hood to middle of back of neck, lining up center grannies. Fold each bottom corner of hood toward sweater front and pin to front edge of sweater. (When pinning, try to situate so that neither piece is stretched.)

On right front where hood corner meets sweater front, attach yarn in space between two clusters on Sweater Front. (Left Handed: left Sweater Front.) Joining row is worked into sweater and attached to hood with two chains between each cluster space, just as the granny squares were joined previously. For clarity, pattern references the sweater fronts and back as simply “Sweater.” 

Joining Row: Ch 3, slst to first corner space of Hood, 3 dc in next Sweater space, ch 2, *remove loop from hook, insert hook from the top to bottom in next space in Hood, pick up working loop, pull through space; 3 dc in next space of Sweater, ch 2; rep from * to opposite Hood corner, end with a sl st into corner space of hood and 1 dc in next Sweater space. Fasten off.

Note: The intent is to get the smoothest join possible, so you may choose to place 3 dc sts at the intersections where the granny squares meet in the hood, placing them in a way that visually works best for you. See photo above for an example placement. Yours might look slightly different and that is okay. 

Bring top corners of hood toward each other, folding hood in half at crown of head. Pin together. Attach yarn in one corner at front (face side) of hood and use the join-as-you-go technique to join sides of hood together as follows.

Seaming Top Of Hood: Ch 3, slst to first corner space of second (opposite) side of hood, 3 dc in next space on first side, ch 2, *remove loop from hook, insert hook from the top to bottom in next space of second side, pick up working loop, pull through space; 3 dc in next space on first side, ch 2; rep from * to crown of hood, end with a sl st into crease of hood. Fasten off.

Sleeves

Notes:
• Sleeve is worked in joined, turned rounds which means at times the RS will be facing and at times the WS will be facing.

• To increase mobility around elbow, a section of rows are intentionally worked even.

• It can be helpful to place a marker in the last decrease row you work to easily keep track of when it’s time to work another one.

• Clusters will continue to line up visually as they did in body of sweater. If you get lost, let this help guide you.

• Similarly, if the thought of decreasing intimidates you, the most important thing to track is that you have the correct number of clusters and ch2sps at the end of each decrease round.

• Ch-3 counts as 1 dc throughout.

Right Sleeve:

With RS facing out, attach yarn in the first dc of any 3dcCluster on Back at armhole below shoulder. (Exact placement isn’t important.)

Foundation Round (RS):
Ch 2, dc2tog over next 2 dc (counts as 1 dc3tog), *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * to shoulder join…

...ch 2, dc3tog over shoulder join…

…*ch 2, working into unused loops of chain sts, dc3tog over each set of 3 dc along sweater Front edge (dc3tog sts should line up with dc3tog sts in sweater Front); rep from * to arm inset…

…[ch 2, dc3tog] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times over arm inset span…

…**ch 2, dc3tog; rep from ** up remaining sts of Back…

...ch 2, sl st to top of first dc3tog to join; turn. 

Round 2 (WS): Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch2sp, 3 dc in each remaining ch2sp around, sl st to top of ch-3 to join; turn. [19 (21, 26, 26, 25, 25, 31) 3dcClusters]

Round 3 (RS): Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog over next 2 dc (counts as 1 dc3tog), *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * around working last dc3tog over last 2 dc and tch, ch 2, sl st to top of first dc3tog to join; turn. 

With sweater laying flat, PM in 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2) dc3tog nearest to bottom underarm crease (or on either side of crease for size 4X/5X, leave one dc3tog in between markers). This marks the decrease point moving forward. When moving marker based on instructions, always move it to a st that keeps it nearest to the center of the underarm (or centered around that center for size 4X/5X). This better disguises the decreases.

After each decrease, move marker to middle stitch of the 3 dc decrease cluster. 

Round 4 (WS-dec): Ch 3, 2 dc in first ch2sp, 3 dc in each ch2sp until 1 space remains before marker, dc in next ch2sp, dc in top of marked dc3tog, dc in next ch2sp (decrease made, move marker to middle stitch of dec cluster, for size 4X/5X repeat dec once more), 3 dc in each remaining ch2sp to end, sl st into top of ch-3 to join; turn. [18 (20, 25, 25, 24, 24, 29) 3dcClusters]

Round 5 (RS): Rep Round 3. [18 (20, 25, 25, 24, 24, 29) dc3tog]. Move marker to top of resulting dc3tog st(s).

Round 6 (WS): Rep Round 2. Move marker between two nearest 3dcClusters (or, for size 4X/5X, both markers on either side of center, as before).

Round 7 (RS): Rep Round 3. Move marker to top of nearest dc3tog st(s).

Round 8 (WS-dec): Rep Round 4. [17 (19, 24, 24, 23, 23, 27) 3dcClusters]

Rep Rounds 5-8 (5-8, 7-8, 7-8, 7-8, 7-8, 5-8) 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 1) more time(s). 

Sleeve should now contain 15 (17, 22, 22, 21, 21, 25) 3dcClusters.

Elbow - Working Even:

ALL SIZES:
Rep Rounds 5-6 three times.

Continue Decreasing:

ALL SIZES:
Rep Rounds 7-8 once. For size 4X/5X, remove one st marker and place remaining st marker in 3dcCluster nearest center underside of sleeve (as described for other sizes). [14 (16, 21, 21, 20, 20, 23) 3dcClusters)

Rep Rounds 5-8 (5-8, 7-8, 7-8, 7-8, 7-8, 7-8) 1 (2, 7, 6, 5, 5, 8) more time(s). Sleeve should now contain 13 (14, 14, 15, 15, 15, 15) 3dcClusters.

Wrist - Working Even:

ALL SIZES:
Rep Rounds 5-6 six (four, three, four, five, five, two) more time(s).

Sleeve should have 40 rounds and 13 (14, 14, 15, 15, 15, 15) 3dcClusters. 

Finishing Round (RS): Ch 1, sc in each dc around, sl st to first st to join. Fasten off.

Left Sleeve: 

With RS facing, attach yarn in the first dc of a 3dcCluster on Back at armhole below shoulder. (Exact placement isn’t important.)

Foundation Round (RS):
Ch 2, dc2tog over next 2 dc (counts as 1 dc3tog), *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * to arm inset…

…[ch 2, dc3tog] 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times over arm inset span…

…*working into unused loops of chain sts, ch 2, dc3tog over each set of 3 dc along sweater Front edge (dc3tog sts should line up with dc3tog sts in sweater Front); rep from * to shoulder join…

...ch 2, dc3tog over shoulder join…

…*ch 2, dc3tog; rep from * down remaining sts of Back…

...ch2, sl st to top of first dc3tog to join; turn. 

Rounds 2-41: Work as for Right Sleeve.

Gently steam block sleeves if desired.

Finishing + Border

Notes:
• Border Rows 1 and 2 are worked up front panel, around front of hood and down second front.

If Color A is still attached at bottom corner of Left Front (left-handed: Right Front), use that yarn. If not, attach Color A on appropriate side. Begin with WS of sweater facing.

SIZES S/M, M/L, L/1X, and 3X/4X only:
Border Row 1 (WS): Ch 3,  *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * in each 3dcCluster around to bottom front corner on opposite side, ch 1, dc in tch; turn. (When working over intersection where hood joins sweater, just place dc3togClusters as evenly as possible.)

Border Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, dc in first dc (base of ch-3), sk ch1sp, 3 dc in each ch2sp around to bottom front corner on opposite side, 2 dc into 3rd ch of tch; do not turn. 

With RS continuing to face you, work Border Round 3 beginning along bottom edge of sweater.

SIZES 1X/2X, 2X/3X, and 4X/5X only:
Border Row 1 (WS): Ch 4, *3 dc in next ch2sp; rep from * to hood; work 3 dc in space between each 3dcCluster on Hood, **3 dc in next ch2sp; rep from ** across next Front, ch 1, 1 dc in last st. Turn. (When working over intersection where hood joins sweater, just place 3dcClusters as evenly as possible.)

Border Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, *ch 2, dc3tog over next 3dcCluster; rep from * in each 3dcCluster around to bottom front corner on opposite side, ch 1, dc in tch; do not turn.

With RS continuing to face you, work Border Round 3 beginning along bottom edge of sweater.

ALL SIZES:
Border Round 3 (RS): Ch 1, sc along raw row edges with a frequency of *2 sc in one row edge, 1 sc in next row edge**; rep from * to granny square insert, sc across granny square insert, rep from * to ** until you reach bottom front corner on opposite side; then continue up Front placing 1 sc in each st (each ch counts as 1 st) until bottom front corner on opposite side is reached, sl st to first st to join. Fasten off. 

Attaching Pockets

Pockets were completed in Part 2 of the free pattern. Now we'll attach them to the sweater. Pin pockets to sweater fronts taking care to align rows of pocket and sweater. 3dcCluster rows of pocket should line up with 3dcCluster rows of sweater. Similarly, RS pocket rows should line up with RS sweater rows. Using existing tails where possible, whip stitch pockets to sweater front.

Weave in remaining ends. (You can do it!)

Wear your sweater with pride knowing you’re paying tribute to all the grannies that came before you!

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