Mini Mezzo Crochet Cardigan – Kids Sizes 4-12

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• About The Mini Mezzo
• Crochet Skills You’ll Practice
• All-in-One Crochet Kit
• Print this Pattern
• Mini Mezzo Cardigan – Free Pattern
• That was so fun! Now what?
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About The Mini Mezzo

Crochet the perfect topper for your favorite little one. The loose, comfy fit is sure to please kiddos who feel particular about their clothing. And because it’s easy to try on and customize as you crochet, you won’t have to guess how it’s going to fit. 

You’ll begin by crocheting two relaxing hexagons which will magically transform into the sleeves, back and fronts. This technique of making a sweater from hexagons is so fun and interesting to watch come together.

Complete beginner? Check out our guide on How to Crochet for Beginners

Crochet Skills You’ll Practice

While making the Mezzo Cardigan, you’ll have a chance to practice working in the round, crocheting puff stitches and learning how to add a knit-esque ribbing to your sweater. Step-by-step video tutorials guide you each step of the way.

Additional techniques to know:

• slip stitch (slst)
• single crochet (sc)
• double crochet (dc)
• weaving in ends

Be sure to show off your stitches using #TheMezzoCardigan on social media!

Supplies + Materials

Order an all-in-one kit from Lion Brand.
• Lion Brand Coboo (Weight: 3/light –  232 yds, 3.5 oz, 100 g)

• Olive (835-145) –  4 (4, 5, 6, 6) skeins [(approx. 310 (380, 430, 510, 580) g)]

• Tapestry needle

• Size J (6.0 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

• Approximately 20 stitch markers

Measurements

Size	Equivalent girls’ US clothing size	Fits up to actual bust	Length
XS	4-5	23-24”	15”
S	6-7	25-26”	17”
M	8-9	26.5-27.5	19”
L	10-11	28-29	20.5”
XL	12-13	30-31	22.5”

*Note that the length will extend 1.5-2” in addition to what’s listed due to the weight of the garment.

Sizing Guide: Olive sample pictured is a size S pictured on a 6-year-old (brunette) and an 8-year-old (blonde). There are lots of opportunities to customize the sweater and sleeve length, so when choosing a size, think more about how loose you want the bust to fit. If in doubt, size down because extending the sleeves is very easy.

Gauge

7 rounds of hexagon = 3.5” as measured from center of hexagon to one side, essentially the hexagon radius. 

14.5 dc = 4” 

Print This Pattern: purchase the ad-free, printable PDF

Overall Pattern Notes

• Ch 3 counts as 1 dc throughout. 
  
• Reminder: Head to the adult Mezzo Cardigan pattern for this project’s photo and video tutorials.

Main Hexagons

Notes:

Hexagon is worked in turned rounds. 

After a few rounds, hexagon will look wavy and should not be able to lay flat. This is intentional to give enough fabric for the body and sleeves. 

Pattern refers to different sides of the hexagon by number, which is illustrated in the chart in the adult Mezzo Cardigan pattern.

Think of these side numbers as fixed to the orientation of looking at the right side of the hexagon. For example, Side 3 is always Side 3, whether you flip the hexagon over or not. Side 3 does not become Side 5, just because the hexagon is flipped to the wrong side.

When you measure gauge after Round 5, please pin name tags as shown at end of pattern to each hexagon side. This will ensure you can easily identify hexagon locations as described in the pattern.

For extra visual clarification, you may find it helpful to reference the stitch charts that are included in the premium PDF.

Learn more about how to read crochet stitch charts in our complete guide.

Make 2.

Foundation Round: Ch 4, slst to first ch to join, creating a ring.

Round 1 (RS): Ch 3 , 2 dc in ring, ch 1, [3 dc in ring, ch 1] 5 times, slst to 3rd ch from beginning of round to join; turn. (3 dc per side)

Round 2 (WS): Ch 3, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch1sp corner, dc in next 3 dc] 5 times, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in last ch1sp corner, dc in next 2 dc, slst to 3rd ch from beginning of round to join; turn. (7 dc per side)

Round 3 (RS): Ch 3, dc in next and each rem dc to ch2sp, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch2sp corner, dc in each dc to next ch2sp corner] 5 times, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in last ch2sp corner, dc in rem dc, slst to 3rd ch from beginning of round to join; turn. (11 dc per side)

TIP: Count your hexagon sides now to double check you indeed have six.

Rep Round 3 twice more, turning work at the end of each round. Hexagon should now contain 5 rounds. Each hexagon side should contain 19 double crochet.

!! Gauge Check !!

Please stop and take a minute to measure your hexagon. This will ensure your sweater is the size you expect it to be. Measure from the center of the hexagon to the edge of one side (radius). This should measure 2.5”. Measure several sides of the hexagon. Each side should measure 5.25-5.5”.

If your hexagon radius or each side length is too large, decrease your hook size and rework hexagon. If your hexagon radius is too small or each side length is too small, increase your hook size and rework hexagon.

Once correct gauge is established, lay hexagon flat with RS facing up. (Last round worked was a RS round.) Use stitch markers to pin side-number name tags to each side according to the chart at end of pattern. 

Introducing Puff Stitch Rounds – All Sizes

• Reference Side # diagram and stitch chart at end of pattern for extra visual clarification. (Left-handed side and corner numbers in brackets when applicable. [ ])

Round 1 (WS – puff): 

First half of Side #1: Ch 3, dc in next and each rem dc to end of side…

Corner #1: (2 dc, ch 2, puff, ch 1) in ch2sp corner…

Side #6 [2]: Puff in first dc of hex side, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to end of side…

Corner #6 [2]: (Ch 1, puff, ch 2, puff, ch 1) in ch2sp corner…

Side #5 [3]: Puff in first dc of hex side, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to end of side…

Corner #5 [3]: (Ch 1, puff, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch2sp corner…

Side #4: Dc in each dc to end of side…

Corner #4: (2 dc, ch 2, puff, ch 1) in ch2sp corner…

Side #3 [5]: Puff in first dc of hex side, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to end of side…

Corner #3 [5]: (Ch 1, puff, ch 2, puff, ch 1) in ch2sp corner…

Side #2 [6]: Puff in first dc of hex side, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to end of side…

Corner #2 [6]: (Ch 1, puff, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch2sp corner…

Last Half of Side #1: Dc in each dc to beginning of round, slst to 3rd ch from beginning of round to join; turn. [12 puff sts or 23 dc per side]

Round 2 (RS – double crochet): Ch 3, *dc in next and each rem dc to ch2sp, [(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch2sp corner, dc in each puff and ch1sp to next ch2sp corner] twice, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next ch2sp corner; rep from * once more, dc in rem dc, slst to 3rd ch from beginning of round to join; turn. [27 dc per side]

[Rep Rounds 1 and 2] 1 (2, 2, 3, 3) more times. 

Rep Round 1 once more. Hexagon should now contain 10 (12, 12, 14, 14) total rounds. The last round should contain 39 (47, 47, 55, 55) dc on each double crochet side and 20 (24, 24, 28, 28) puff stitches on each puff stitch side. Fasten off.

Back + Front Extensions

Extra rows are now worked along a specific side on each hexagon to extend fabric that will form the back of sweater. (And for some sizes, we’ll extend the Fronts next as well.)

Left Side of Sweater As Worn

Set Up Row:

Notes:

• Back = side #5, Bottom = side #4, Front = side #3
• Attach yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #2 and #3. (Left handed: Attach yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #5 and #6.)
• You will begin by working down Side #3 (Left handed: Side #5)

Important: Begin Set-Up Row with RS facing.

Set-Up Row (RS): Ch 3, dc in first puff, *dc in next ch1sp, dc in next puff**; rep from * to ch2sp corner, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch2sp corner, dc in each dc along side #4, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch2sp corner, dc in puff, rep from * to ** along Side #5 (Left handed: Side #3), 1 dc in ch2sp corner; turn. 

Keep yarn attached. (Left handed: Keep yarn attached for Left Front. Attach a new ball of yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #3 and #4 for Left Back.)

Sides should now contain the following number of double crochet:
Side #3: 42 (50, 50, 58, 58) dc
Side #4: 43 (51, 51, 59, 59) dc
Side #5: 42 (50, 50, 58, 58) dc

Left Back:

With attached yarn, Left Back is worked along side #5 only in order to extend the width of the back of sweater. 

Note: Beginning and end of puff rows are slightly different from established pattern—there is no chain one between the dc at each edge and the first/last puff.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), puff in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to ch2sp corner, dc in ch2sp corner; turn. [21 (25, 25, 29, 29) puffs]

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, dc in next puff, *dc in next ch1sp, dc in next puff; rep from * to tch, dc in tch; turn. [43 (51, 51, 59, 59) dc]

Row 3 (WS): Ch 3 puff in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to tch, dc in tch; turn. [21 (25, 25, 29, 29) puffs]

[Rep Rows 2 and 3] 2 more times. Left Back should now contain 8 total rows, including Set-Up Row. Fasten off.

Left Front:

Size XL: There is no front extension for this size. Skip to Right Side of Sweater Extensions section. (Left handed: Fasten off yarn from Set-Up Row for this size only.)

Sizes XS S, M, L: Work front extension as follows.

Attach yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #3 and #4. (Left handed: Use yarn still attached from Set Up Row.)

Note: As with Back Extension, the beginning and end of puff rows are slightly different from established pattern. (There is no chain space between the dc at each edge and the first/last puff.)

Left Front is worked along side #3 only in order to extend the circumference of the sweater bust.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), puff in first dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to tch, dc in tch; turn. [21 (25, 25, 29, -) puffs]

Sizes M and L stop here.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next puff, *dc in next ch1sp, dc in next puff, rep from * to last puff, dc in tch; turn. [43 (51, -, -, -) dc]

Size S stop here.

Row 3 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, puff in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to tch, dc in tch; turn. [21 (-, -, -, -) puffs]

Left Front should now contain 4 (3, 2, 2, 1) total rows, including Set-Up Row. Fasten off.

Right Side of Sweater as Worn

Set-Up Row:

Notes:

• Back = Side #3, Bottom = Side #4, Front = Side #5
• Attach yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #2 and #3. (Left handed: Attach yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #5 and #6.)
• You will begin by working down Side #3 (Left handed: Side #5)

Important: Begin Set-Up Row with RS facing.

Set-Up Row (RS): Ch 3, dc in first puff, *dc in next ch1sp, dc in next puff**; rep from * to ch2sp corner, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch2sp corner, dc in each dc along side #4, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner sp, rep from * to ** along Side #5 (Left handed: Side #3), 1 dc in 2chsp corner; turn. Do not fasten off.

Keep yarn attached. (Left handed: Keep yarn attached for Right Back. Attach a new ball of yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #4 and #5.) 

Sides should now contain the following number of double crochet:
Side #3: 42 (50, 50, 58, 58) dc
Side #4: 43 (51, 51, 59, 59) dc
Side #5: 42 (50, 50, 58, 58) dc

Right Front:

Size XL: Fasten off. there is no front extension for this size. Skip to Right Back section. (Left handed: keep yarn attached and skip to Right Back section for this size.)

Sizes XS, S, M, L: Work front extension as follows. 

Note: As with previous extensions, the beginning and end of puff rows are slightly different from established pattern. (There is no chain space between the dc at each edge and the first/last puff.) 

Right Front is worked along side #5 only in order to extend the circumference of the sweater bust.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), puff in first dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to ch2sp corner, dc in ch2sp corner; turn. [21 (25, 25, 29, -) puffs]

Sizes M and L stop here.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next puff, *dc in next ch1sp, dc in next puff; rep from * to tch, dc in tch; turn. [43 (51, -, -, -) dc]

Size S stop here.

Row 3 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, puff in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to tch, dc in tch; turn. [21 (-, -, -, -) puffs]

Left Front should now contain 4 (3, 2, 2, 1) total rows, including Set-Up Row. Fasten off.

Right Back:

Attach yarn in ch2sp corner between Sides #3 and #4. (Left handed: Use attached yarn that was set aside earlier.) Right Back is worked along side #3 only in order to extend the width of the back of sweater. 

Row 1 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), sk first dc, puff in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to ch2sp corner, dc in ch2sp corner; turn. [21 (25, 25, 29, 29) puffs]

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in next puff, *dc in next ch1sp, dc in next puff; rep from * to tch, dc in tch; turn. [43 (51, 51, 59, 59) dc]

Row 3 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, puff in next dc, *ch 1, sk 1 dc, puff in next dc; rep from * to tch, dc in tch; turn. [21 (25, 25, 29, 29) puffs]

[Rep Rows 2 and 3]  2 more times. Right Back should now contain 8 total rows, including the Set-Up Row. Fasten off.

Joining Sleeves

With RS facing together, use stitch markers to pin Sides #2 and #6 together (and Front + Back Extensions for sizes XS-L). Take care to line up puff stitches on either side of hexagon sides. Bottom = Hexagon that is closest to your body during seaming process. (Side #2.) (Left-handed: Side #6.)

Top = Hexagon that is above bottom hexagon and further from your body. (Side #6.) (Left-handed: Side #2.)

Size XL

• The joining process is identical for right and left sleeves.

At neckline, attach yarn in corner between Sides #2 and #3. (Left handed: attach yarn in corner between Sides #5 and #6.)

Joining Row (WS): Ch 3, slst to ch2sp on Top Hex, *dc in next puff on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent puff on Top Hex, dc in next sp on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent sp on Top Hex; rep from * until 1 puff remains on each side, dc in next puff on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent puff on Top Hex, dc in last dc on Bottom Hex, slst to ch2sp on Top Hex. Keep yarn attached and proceed to Sleeve section.

Sizes XS, S, M, L

Joining Right Sweater Side As Worn: In Back Extension, attach yarn in raw double crochet row aligned with where Right Front edge ends. Then proceed with joining row with the WS of the sweater facing out.

Joining Left Sweater Side As Worn: Attach yarn in top corner of Front Extension. Then proceed with joining row with the WS of the sweater facing out.

Joining Row (WS):

Along Back/Front Extensions: Ch 3, slst to raw dc row edge on Top Hex, *dc in next puff row edge on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent puff row edge on Top Hex, dc in next dc row edge on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent dc row edge on Top Hex; rep from * to hexagon corners…

Continuing Along Hexagon Sides: …dc in ch2sp on Bottom Hex, slst to ch2sp on Top Hex, *dc in next puff on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent puff on Top Hex, dc in next sp on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent sp on Top Hex; rep from * until 1 puff remains on each side, dc in next puff on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent puff on Top Hex, dc in last dc on Bottom Hex, slst to ch2sp on Top Hex. Keep yarn attached and proceed to Sleeve section.

Sleeves

• Right and left sleeves are worked identically.

Main Sleeve:

Yarn is still attached from joining sleeves. Turn sweater RS out. Sleeve is worked in turned rounds along Side #1.

Round 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc in corner sp), dc in each dc around sleeve, dc in ch2sp corner, 2 dc in sleeve seam, slst to top of ch-3 from beginning of round to join; Turn. [43 (51, 51, 59, 59) dc]

Round 2 (WS): Ch 3, dc in each dc, slst to top of ch-3 from beginning of round to join; turn.

Rep Round 2 2 (0, 2, 2, 6) times. If longer sleeves are desired, work additional repeats of Round 2, making sure to end with a WS round.

We will now reduce the circumference of the sleeve.

Round 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first st, PM in created st, sc2tog over next 2 dc, sc2tog to end of round, slst to marked st to join; do not turn. [22 (26, 26, 30, 30) sc]

Round 2 (RS): Ch 1, sc2tog, PM in created st, *sc in next 1 (1, 2, 1, 4) sts, sc2tog; rep from * around and sc in rem 1 (2, 2, 0, 0) sts, slst to marked st to join. Keep yarn attached and proceed to Ribbing. [15 (18, 20, 20, 24) sc]

Ribbing:

• Ribbing is worked in rows perpendicular to sleeve. Ribbing is attached as it’s crocheted by slip stitching to the sleeve.
  
• Each yarn over slip stitch (yoslst) is worked through the back loop only (blo) of the stitch in the previous row. On even rows only (those heading away from the wrist), the last stitch of the row is worked through two loops, both the middle loop and the back loop. This creates a tidier-looking edge. 

Foundation: With attached yarn, ch 9.

Row 1 (RS): Yoslst in second ch from hook, yoslst in each rem ch, slst to wrist st where yarn was attached, slst to next wrist st; turn. (8 yoslsts + 2 sl sts on wrist)

TIP: Count your yoslsts here to ensure there are 8. Recount periodically as you work ribbing because yoslsts can be easy to accidentally drop along the way.

Row 2 (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk slsts along wrist, yoslst in the blo of each yoslst until 1 remains, yoslst through both loops of the last st; turn.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, yoslst in the blo of each st, slst to next unworked wrist st, slst to next wrist st; turn.

Row 4 (WS): Rep Row 2. 

Size XS Only:

Rep Rows 3 and 4 until 1 st on wrist remains after completing a Row 3. 

Rep Rows 4 and 3 once more, ending Row 3 with one slip stitch in rem wrist st and one slip stitch into wrist st where yarn was originally attached at beginning of cuff. 

Sizes S, M, L, XL Only:

Rep Rows 3 and 4 until all sts on wrist have been used, ending after completing a Row 4 for size XS and a Row 3 for all other sizes.

All Sizes:

Fasten off, leaving a 12” tail for joining ribbing seam. 

Joining Cuff: With WS facing, use tapestry needle and yarn tail to whip stitch first and last row of ribbing together. Fasten off and weave in end.

Repeat entirety of Sleeve instructions on opposite sweater side.

Joining Back

With RS facing together, use stitch markers to pin Right and Left back extensions together. Take care to line up puff stitches on either side. Attach yarn in first dc at bottom corner of back extension on the RIGHT side of the sweater, as worn. (Left handed: Attach yarn in first dc at bottom corner of back extension on the LEFT side of the sweater, as worn.)

Bottom: Extension that is closest to your body during seaming process. 

Top: Extension that is above bottom extension and further from your body. 

TIP: The point here is to join the extensions together using a row of what looks like double crochet when it’s finished. The important part is that this is worked on the WS of the sweater. Beyond that though, which corner it starts in is less important.

Joining Row (WS): Ch 3, slst to first dc on Top Hex, *dc in next puff on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent puff on Top Hex, dc in next ch1sp on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent ch1sp on Top Hex; rep from * until 1 puff remains on each side, dc in next puff on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent puff on Top Hex, dc in last dc on Bottom Hex, slst to equivalent dc on Top Hex. Fasten off.

Bottom Extension

Notes: 

• We will now extend the length of the sweater. This is a good place for customization as you can try on your sweater and simply stop crocheting rows when you’ve reached your desired length. (Be sure to end with a Row 2 at desired length, then work Cinching Row.) 

• Keep in mind, ribbing will add approximately 2” to the overall length and you can expect the length to stretch a bit with wear.
  
• The exact stitch count for Row 1 is less important than having the row lay flat. If necessary, modifying the number of stitches or exact placement will not affect outcome of Row 1.
• Row 1 is worked with the WS facing along entire bottom edge of sweater.

Attach yarn in bottom front corner of Right side of sweater. This is the corner between Sides #4 and #5 for size XL and the edge of the Front Extension for sizes XS, S, M, and L. (Left handed: Attach yarn in bottom front corner of Left side of sweater. This is the corner between Sides #3 and #4 for sizes XS and the edge of the Front Extension for sizes S, M, XL.)

Sizes XS, S, M, L Only: 

Row 1 (WS): 

Along front extension: Ch 3, dc in first dc raw edge, *2 dc in puff raw edge, dc in dc raw edge; rep from * to last puff, 2 dc in last puff…

Along first hexagon side: Dc in ch2sp corner, dc in each dc, dc in ch2sp corner…

Along back extension: **2 dc in puff raw edge, dc in dc raw edge; rep from ** to last puff, 2 dc in last puff…

Along second hexagon side: Dc in ch2sp corner, dc in each dc, dc in ch2sp corner… 

Along front extension: ***2 dc in puff raw edge, dc in dc raw edge; rep from *** to end of row, 1 more dc in dc raw edge; turn.

Size XL Only:

Row 1 (WS): 

Along first hexagon side: Ch 3, dc in ch2sp corner, dc in each dc, dc in ch2sp corner…

Along Back Extension: *2 dc in puff raw edge, dc in dc raw edge; rep from * to last puff, 2 dc in last puff…

Along second hexagon side: Dc in ch2sp corner, dc in each dc, 2 dc in last ch2sp corner; turn. 

All Sizes: 

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc to end of row; turn.

Sizes XS and S stop here.

Sizes M, L, XL:

Rows 3–6, 4, 8: Rep Row 2. (Even rows are RS, odd rows are WS.)

Bottom extension should now contain 2 (2, 6, 4, 8) total rows. We will now slightly cinch in the bottom of the sweater to create a mild tightening before adding the ribbing band. For a flowier sweater, work a basic row of single crochet with no decreasing.

Cinching Row (WS): Ch 1, sc in first 2 sts, *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * to end of row, placing last sc in tch; turn.

Ribbing: 

• Ribbing is created using same technique as Sleeves.

• Ribbing is worked in rows perpendicular to sweater. Ribbing is attached as it’s created by slip stitching to sweater bottom.
  
• Each yarn over slip stitch (yoslst) is worked through the back loop only (blo) of the stitch in the previous row. On even rows only (those heading away from sweater), the last stitch of the row is worked through two loops, both the middle loop and the back loop.
  
• Pay attention to the RS/WS designation of row as it will help clarify which side of sweater is facing in each row.
  
• If shorter sweater is desired, consider modifying Foundation Chain length to 6 ch. (This will create a bottom ribbing of 5 sts tall.)

Foundation: With attached yarn, ch 10.

Row 1 (RS): Yoslst in second ch from hook, yoslst in each st, slst to first sweater dc, slst to next sweater dc; turn. (9 yoslsts + 2 sl sts on sweater)

TIP: Count your yoslsts here to ensure there are 9. Recount periodically as you work ribbing because yoslsts can be easy to accidentally drop along the way.

Row 2 (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk slsts along sweater bottom, yoslst in the blo of each yoslst until 1 rem, yoslst through both loops of the last st; turn.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, yoslst in each st, slst to next unworked sweater dc, slst to next sweater dc; turn.

Row 4 (WS): Rep Row 2. 

Rep Rows 3 and 4 to end of sweater bottom, ending with a Row 4. This may require slip stitching only one stitch instead of two along sweater bottom on the final repeat. It’s fine to improvise here to ensure you end with a Row 4. This will position the yarn at the bottom point of the RIGHT front of sweater. (Left handed: LEFT front of sweater.) Do not fasten off.

Final Touches

Collar Ribbing:

Notes: 

• Collar is worked in long rows from bottom front corner, around neck to bottom front corner on opposite side. 

With attached yarn, the collar foundation row is worked with RS facing up first front, along back of neck and down second front. 

Collar Foundation Row (RS): Ch 1, sc evenly around (up first front, along back of neck and down second front); turn. PM in first and last sc along the back of neck section. See photo on p23.

Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, *yoslst through both loops of each sc* to st before next marker, sc2tog through the blo of next sc and marked sc, work between * and * to next marked st, sc2tog over marked sc and next sc, rep between * and * to end; turn. Move markers up to yoslst2tog.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 1, yoslst through the back loop only of each st, working a yoslst2tog decrease through the blo at both markers; turn. 

Rep Row 2 four times. Note: It’s not essential that the yoslst2tog decreases on either side of the neck line up perfectly with the previous row. Estimating their location is fine. Fasten off.

Pockets (optional):

• Pockets are written in two sizes XS/S/M (L/XL).
  
• If you shortened your bottom extension, you may find there isn’t much room for pockets. 

Make 2. 

Foundation Row: Ch 16 (21).

Row 1 (RS): Dc in fourth ch from the hook, dc in each ch; turn. [15 (20) dc]

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc; turn. 

Rep row 2 four (eight) more times. Pocket should now contain 6 (10) rows. Fasten off. 

With WS facing and pocket upside down, attach yarn in the bottom of the first stitch of Row 1. 

Finishing Row (WS): Ch 1, yoslst in the foundation ch of each st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Attaching Pockets:

Attach pockets to sweater using stitch markers. Finishing row should be facing upward. Take care to line up the RS/WS rows with corresponding rows on sweater. With tapestry needle and leftover yarn tail, whip stitch pocket in place. Repeat with second pocket in identical location on opposite sweater front. See photos on p24.

Light Blocking:

It can be helpful to steam block your sweater. Simply lay your cardigan out flat and use a steamer or iron with a steam setting to direct steam at the fabric from 4-6″ away. (Do not touch the steamer/iron to the yarn.) Focus specifically on where the hexagons are joined at the shoulders and back.

Bestow your new handmade cardi on the most stylish kiddo you know!