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Modern Patchwork Crochet Blanket Free Pattern

Introducing our free modern patchwork blanket pattern with twisted fringe! If you love the playful look of scrappy crochet projects, but you dread weaving in the ends, this “crazy quilt” patchwork blanket is for you.

Get free crochet pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF.

Striped crochet patchwork blanket with fringe edging.

This free patchwork crochet blanket pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.

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A Modern Patchwork Crochet Blanket

Take the traditional idea of a hand-sewn crazy quilt and translate it into modern crochet!

By incorporating many of the yarn ends into fun twisted fringe, the amount of weaving in is greatly reduced and you get to enjoy the eclectic, striped look without as much work. 

The crochet skills you’ll practice in this modern patchwork blanket pattern include bobble stitches, increasing, decreasing, and changing colors.

Why you’ll love this patchwork afghan!

  • Tons of Texture: Bobble stitches and playful, twisted fringe
  • Use up Scraps: The more eclectic, the better
  • Fewer Ends to Weave In: Turn them into fringe instead

More Crochet Blanket Resources

If you love crocheting blankets as much as we do, I think you’ll find these resources really helpful.

All-in-One Crochet Kit

Don’t live near amazing yarn stores or just like having skeins of yarn appear on your doorstep? I feel you. The all-in-one kit is a perfect way to make your patchwork crochet blanket!

This bundle from Lion Brand includes all the Pima Cotton and 24/7 Cotton yarn you’ll need, plus a bonus printable PDF of the pattern (delivered digitally).

Prefer to crochet on the couch? Need a portable, printable pattern? You’ll love the premium PDF! The instantly downloadable, ad-free file is formatted for easy printing and includes the complete patchwork blanket pattern, all the photo tutorials, and bonus stitch charts.

New to following stitch charts? Check out our complete guide to crochet diagrams to learn how!

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formatted for effortless printing and relaxing couch crocheting

A grid of four colorful crochet projects made with Lion Brand Mandala yarn.
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More Free Crochet Patterns

Add a few of our favorite free crochet patterns to your project queue!

Not-So-Crazy Quilt – Free Pattern

Supplies + Materials

Order an all-in-one kit from Lion Brand here.
• Lion Brand Pima Cotton (Weight: 4/medium –  186 yds, 3.5 oz/100 g)

• Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (Weight: 4/Medium –  170 yds, 3.5 oz/100 g)

• Tapestry needle

• Size J (6.00 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

• Tapestry needle

• Stitch markers

• T-pins

• Steamer or iron with steam function (alternative: use a spray bottle)

• Blocking board

Measurements

36 x 47” excluding fringe

Gauge

13.5 dc x 8 rows = 4”

Abbreviations + Glossary
(US Terms)

ch – chain
chsp – chain space
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet two stitches together (decrease of one)
dc3tog – double crochet three stitches together (decrease of two)
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over
tch – turning chain

Special Stitches

Bobble (bbls) – [yo, insert hook in st and pull up a loop] 4 times in same st. (9 loops on hook.) Yo and pull through first 8 loops on hook. Yo and pull through last 2 loops.

Skill Level

This free modern patchwork crochet blanket pattern is an intermediate-level project.

Permissions + Copyright:
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back this post. Do NOT use our photos as your own sales photos.

Overall Patchwork Blanket Pattern Notes

• The stripes and color sequence are intended to look organic and random and can easily be amended to your liking. Try using 20 colors instead of six or even working each section of patchwork stripes in different colors.

• To switch colors at the end of a row, complete the final yarn over of the double crochet using the new color. Fasten off color leaving approximately an 8” yarn tail. Many of these tails will not be woven in, but rather incorporated into the fringe at the end.

• Because this blanket is reversible, the wrong side and right side designation isn’t given for each row. More helpful is to consider the way you’d prefer your diagonal stripes to angle in the finished blanket and be sure to construct your blanket accordingly.

• All written instructions apply to both right and left-handed crocheters. 

Print This Pattern: purchase the ad-free, printable PDF

Diagram showing sections of a modern patchwork blanket crochet pattern.

!! Gauge Check !!

While meeting pattern gauge is not essential in this project, doing so will ensure you have enough yarn to finish and that the measurements of your blanket are as expected. 

To make a gauge swatch, use any color.

Foundation Row: Ch 22.

Row 1: Dc in fourth ch from hook, dc each ch to end; turn. (20)

Row 2: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each st to end; turn.

Rep Row 2 ten more times. Measure center four inches of swatch vertically and horizontally. Compare to pattern gauge listed above. 

Adjusting Your Gauge

If your crochet gauge isn’t measuring correctly, here’s what to do:

• If there are too many stitches in 4” horizontally, increase your hook size and re-swatch. 

• If there aren’t enough stitches in 4” horizontally, decrease your hook size and re-swatch.

• If swatch is measuring too small vertically, make a deliberate effort to pull loops up a bit higher before completing each double crochet. 

• If swatch is measuring too large vertically, make an effort to work the loops of each double crochet a little tighter.

This video is incredibly helpful if you’re having trouble achieving the correct vertical gauge:

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Section #1

Notes:

• Section #1 is worked at a diagonal, beginning in one corner and increasing to the widest point, then decreasing until the opposite corner. It’s normal for this section to be slightly slanted before blocking. 

• To switch colors at the end of a row, complete the final yarn over of the double crochet using the new color. Fasten off color leaving approximately and 8” yarn tail. These tails will not be woven in, but rather incorporated into fringe at the end.

• Ch 3 DOES count as a dc throughout. 

Increasing

• Even numbered rows will always begin and end with an increase of two stitches (4 total/row).

• Odd numbered rows will always begin and end with an increase of one stitch (2 total/row). 

Row #ColorRow InstructionsStitch Count
0CCh 5.5 ch
1CSkip first 3 chs, 4 dc in last ch; turn. 5 dc
2CCh 3, 2 dc in first dc (2 inc made), dc in each dc until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn. 7 dc
3CCh 3, 1 dc in first dc (inc made), dc in each dc until tch remains, 2 dc in tch (inc made); turn.11 dc
4CRep Row 2.15 dc
5CRep Row 3.17 dc
6BRep Row 2.21 dc
7BRep Row 3.23 dc
8DRep Row 2.27 dc
9DRep Row 3.29 dc
10DRep Row 2.33 dc
11DRep Row 3.35 dc
12ARep Row 2.39 dc
13ARep Row 3.41 dc
14CBOBBLE: Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc (2 inc made), bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn. 20 bbls
15CBOBBLE: Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc (1 inc made), dc in next dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until until last ch1sp, ch 1, sk next bobble, bobble in next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in tch (1 inc made); turn.21 bbls
16ECh 3, 2 dc in first dc (2 inc made), dc in each dc, bobble and ch1sp until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn. 51 dc
17ERep Row 3.53 dc
18ERep Row 2.57 dc
19ERep Row 3.59 dc
20DRep Row 2.63 dc
21DRep Row 3.65 dc

Our Latest Crochet Inspiration:
Here are a few more free crochet patterns and tutorials that are hot off the presses.

Decreasing

• Even numbered rows will always begin and end with a decrease of two stitches (4 total/row).

• Odd numbered rows will always begin and end with a decrease of one stitch (2 total/row). 

• Ch 2 at beginning of row does not count as a stitch, but rather part of the decrease.

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Row #ColorRow InstructionsStitch Count
22ACh 2, sk first dc, dc2tog (2 dec made), dc in each dc until 2 dc and tch remains, dc3tog (2 dec made); turn. 61 dc
23ACh 2, sk first dc, dc in next dc (1 dec made), dc in each dc until 1 dc and tch remains, dc2tog (1 dec made); turn. 59 dc
24FBOBBLE: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog (2 dec made), bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until 3 dc remain, dc3tog (2 dec made); turn. 27 bbls
25FBOBBLE: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc in first bobble (1 dec made), bobble in next ch1sp, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble and dc3tog remain, dc2tog (1 dec made); turn.26 bbls
26BCh 2, sk first dc, dc2tog over next bobble and ch1sp (2 dec made), dc in each bobble and ch1sp until one ch1sp remains, dc3tog over ch1sp, bobble and dc2tog (2 dec made); turn. 49 dc
27BRep Row 23.47 dc
28BRep Row 22.43 dc
29BRep Row 23.41 dc
30ARep Row 22.37 dc
31ARep Row 23.35 dc
32CRep Row 22.31 dc
33CRep Row 23.29 dc
34CRep Row 22.25 dc
35CRep Row 23.23 dc
36DRep Row 22.19 dc
37DRep Row 23.17 dc
38ERep Row 22.13 dc
39ERep Row 23.11 dc
40ERep Row 22.7 dc
41ERep Row 23.5 dc
42ECh 2, dc4tog (4 dec made); fasten off.1 dc

Blocking

Pin completed Section to blocking board. Steam block taking care not to touch steamer/iron to yarn. Dry thoroughly and move on to Section #2. (If you’re anxious to keep crocheting, you may begin Section #5 of your modern patchwork blanket while you wait.)

Section #2

Notes:

• Section #1 is worked “even”, which means there is no increasing or decreasing involved.

• Ch 3 DOES count as a dc throughout. 

• Row 1 is worked directly into edge of Section #1. See photo at end of pattern for orientation. Row 1 may take a bit of fiddling to get the stitch count spaced evenly across the row. It’s better to tear out the row and try again rather than squishing too many stitches in at the end of the row or spreading them too thin. 

Attach yarn in foundation corner of Section #1. Place stitch marker in center of Section #1 edge where Row 1 will be worked. (Determine center by folding Section #1 in half and placing marker in crease.)

Row #ColorRow InstructionsStitch Count
1FCh 3, place 23 dc evenly until marker, dc in marked “stitch”, place 23 dc evenly to end of row making sure to place last stitch in true corner of Section #1; turn. 47 dc
2-4FCh 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc including tch; turn.47 dc
5ABOBBLE: Ch 3, sk first dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until tch remains, dc in tch; turn.23 bbls
6ABOBBLE: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in first bobble, bobble in next ch1sp, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble remains, dc in last bobble, dc in tch; turn.22 bbls
7DCh 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc, bobble and ch1sp including tch; turn.47 dc
8DRep Row 2.47 dc
9-12ERep Row 2.47 dc
13-14CRep Row 2.47 dc
15BBOBBLE: Rep Row 5.23 bbls
16BBOBBLE: Rep Row 6.22 bbls
17FRep Row 7.47 dc
18FRep Row 2.47 dc
19-20DRep Row 2.47 dc
21-22ERep Row 2.47 dc
23ABOBBLE: Rep Row 5.23 bbls
24ABOBBLE: Rep Row 6.22 bbls
25CRep Row 7.47 dc
26-28CRep Row 2.47 dc
29-30FRep Row 2.47 dc
31-32ERep Row 2.47 dc
33BBOBBLE: Rep Row 5.23 bbls
34BBOBBLE: Rep Row 6.22 bbls
35FRep Row 7.47 dc
36FRep Row 2.47 dc

Blocking

Pin completed Section to blocking board. Steam block taking care not to touch steamer/iron to yarn. Dry thoroughly and move on to Section #3. (If you’re anxious to keep crocheting, you can begin Section #5 while you wait.)

Finishing

Weave in the ends on Section #1 that is across from side where Section #2 was added. All Section #1 and #2 ends across the bottom of blanket can stay exposed.

Diagram of crochet patchwork quilt pieces.

Section #3

Notes:

• Section #3 is worked “even”, which means there is no increasing or decreasing involved.

• Ch 2 at beginning of row DOES NOT count as a dc throughout. 

• Row 1 is worked directly into raw row edges of Section #2. See photo at end of pattern for orientation. 

Attach color D yarn in corner of Section #2 opposite fringe edge.

Row #ColorRow InstructionsStitch Count
1DCh 2, dc in same row edge, place 2 dc in next 20 total row ends; turn.(Row 1 should span 21 total Section #2 raw row ends.)41 dc
2DCh 2, dc in first dc, dc in each dc to end of row, do not dc in tch; turn.41 dc
3ABOBBLE: Ch 2, dc in first dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until 1 dc remains, dc in last dc; turn.20 bbls
4ABOBBLE: Ch 2, dc in first dc, dc in first bobble, bobble in next ch1sp, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble remains, dc in last bobble, dc in dc; turn.19 bbls
5FCh 2, dc in first dc, dc in each dc, bobble and ch1sp; turn.41 dc
6-7FRep Row 2.41 dc
8-9ERep Row 2.41 dc
10-11CRep Row 2.41 dc
12BBOBBLE: Rep Row 3.20 bbls
13BBOBBLE: Rep Row 4.19 bbls
14DRep Row 5.41 dc
15-17Rep Row 2. Fasten off leaving a 36” tail. (Do not weave in.)41 dc

Blocking

Pin completed Section to blocking board. Steam block taking care not to touch steamer/iron to yarn. Dry thoroughly and move on to Section #4. (If you’re anxious to keep crocheting, you can continue with Section #5 while you wait.)

Finishing

Weave in the ends on Section #3. You can do it!

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Diagram of crochet patchwork blanket pieces.

Section #4

Notes:

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• Section #4 is worked “even” right next to Section #3. There is no increasing or decreasing involved. (See photo above Section #3.)

• Ch 2 at beginning of row DOES NOT counts as a dc throughout. 

• Row 1 is worked directly into raw row edges of Section #2 and #1. 

Attach color E yarn in top of last stitch in Row 1 of Section #3. See photo at top of pattern for orientation. 

Row #ColorRow InstructionsStitch Count
1EDo not ch, 2 dc in next Section #2 row edge, place 2 dc in each remaining row edge of Section #2 (30 dc total); continue spacing 59 dc evenly across edge of Section #1; turn. (See photo above.)
89 dc
2ECh 2, dc in first dc, dc in each dc to end of row, do not dc in tch, slst to top of closest stitch in adjacent row of Section #3; turn.89 dc
3ECh 2, slst to top of closest stitch in next row of Section #3, dc in first dc, dc in each dc to end of row, do not dc in tch; turn. 89 dc
4CRep Row 2.89 dc
5CRep Row 3.89 dc
6BBOBBLE: Ch 2, dc in first dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until 1 dc remains, dc in last dc, slst to top of closest stitch in corresponding row of Section #3; turn.44 bbls
7BBOBBLE: Ch 2, slst to top of closest stitch in next row of Section #3, dc in first dc, dc in first bobble, bobble in next ch1sp, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble remains, dc in last bobble, dc in dc; turn.43 bbls
8FCh 2, dc in first dc, dc in each dc, bobble and ch1sp, slst to top of closest stitch in corresponding row of Section #3; turn.89 dc
9FRep Row 3.89 dc
10CRep Row 2.89 dc
11CRep Row 3.89 dc
12ERep Row 2.89 dc
13ERep Row 3.89 dc
14ABOBBLE: Rep Row 6.44 bbls
15ABOBBLE: Rep Row 7.43 bbls
16FRep Row 8.89 dc
17FRep Row 3. Fasten off leaving a 36” tail. (Do not weave in.)89 dc

Blocking

Pin completed Section to blocking board. Steam block taking care not to touch steamer/iron to yarn. Dry thoroughly. (You can continue with Section #5 while you wait.)

Finishing

Weave in the ends on Section #4 of your patchwork crochet blanket. You’ll thank yourself later!

Section #5

Notes:

• Similar to Section #1, Section #5 is worked at a diagonal, beginning in one corner and increasing to the widest point, then decreasing until the opposite corner. It’s normal for this section to be slightly slanted before blocking. 

• To switch colors at the end of a row, complete the final yarn over of the double crochet using the new color. Fasten off color leaving approximately an 8” yarn tail. Many of these tails will not be woven in, but rather incorporated into fringe at the end.

• Ch 3 DOES count as a dc throughout. 

Increasing

• Similar to Section #1, even numbered rows will always begin and end with an increase of two stitches (4 total/row).

• Odd numbered rows will always begin and end with an increase of one stitch (2 total/row). 

• Ch 3 DOES count as a dc throughout. 

Row #ColorRow InstructionsStitch Count
0ECh 5.5 ch
1ESkip first 3 chs, 4 dc in last ch; turn. 5 dc
2ECh 3, 2 dc in first dc (2 inc made), dc in each dc until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn. 7 dc
3ECh 3, 1 dc in first dc (inc made), dc in each dc until tch remains, 2 dc in tch (inc made); turn.11 dc
4ERep Row 2.15 dc
5ERep Row 3.17 dc
6FBOBBLE: Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc (2 inc made), bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn. 8 bbls
7FBOBBLE: Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc (1 inc made), dc in next dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until until last ch1sp, ch 1, sk next bobble, bobble in next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in tch (1 inc made); turn.9 bbls
8ACh 3, 2 dc in first dc (2 inc made), dc in each dc, bobble and ch1sp until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn. 27 dc
9ARep Row 3.29 dc
10ARep Row 2.33 dc
11ARep Row 3.35 dc
12DRep Row 2.39 dc
13DRep Row 3.41 dc
14ERep Row 2.45 dc
15ERep Row 3.47 dc
16CBOBBLE: Rep Row 6.23 bbls
17CBOBBLE: Rep Row 7.24 bbls
18ARep Row 8.57 dc
19ARep Row 3.59 dc
20BRep Row 2.63 dc
21BRep Row 3.65 dc
22BRep Row 2.69 dc
23BRep Row 3.71 dc
24FBOBBLE: Rep Row 6.35 bbls
25FBOBBLE: Rep Row 7.36 bbls
26ERep Row 8.81 dc
27ERep Row 3. (NOTE: End of this row is where Section #6 yarn will attach.)83 dc

Working Even

• In this portion of the rectangle, we’re decreasing on one side of the patchwork piece and increasing equally on the other. This creates a rectangle shape instead of a square like in Section #1. The stitch count also remains even in each of these rows.

• Even numbered rows will always begin with a decrease of two stitches and end with an increase of two stitches.

• Odd numbered rows will always begin with an increase of one stitch and end with a decrease of one stitch. 

Row #ColorRow InstructionsStitch Count
28ECh 2, sk first dc, dc2tog (2 dec made), dc in each dc until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn. 83 dc
29ECh 3, 1 dc in first dc (inc made), dc in each dc until 1 dc and tch remains, dc2tog (1 dec made); turn. 83 dc
30DRep Row 28.83 dc
31DRep Row 29.83 dc
32ARep Row 28.83 dc
33ARep Row 29.83 dc
34ARep Row 28.83 dc
35ARep Row 29.83 dc
36CBOBBLE: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog (2 dec made), bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn. 40 bbls
37CBOBBLE: Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc (1 inc made), dc in next dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble and dc3tog remain, dc2tog over bobble and dc3tog (1 dec made); turn.40 bbls

Decreasing

• We now begin decreasing at the beginning and end of each row to taper to the last corner of the rectangle to complete our modern patchwork blankets. 

• Similar to Section #1, even numbered rows will always begin and end with a decrease of two stitches (4 total/row).

• Odd numbered rows will always begin and end with an decrease of one stitch (2 total/row). 

• Ch 2 at beginning of row does not count as a stitch, but rather part of the decrease.

Row #ColorRow InstructionsStitch Count
38ECh 2, sk first dc, dc2tog over next bobble and ch1sp (2 dec made), dc in each bobble and ch1sp until 2 dc and tch remains, dc3tog over 2 dc and tch (2 dec made); turn. 79 dc
39ECh 2, sk first dc, dc in next dc (1 dec made), dc in each dc until 1 dc and tch remains, dc2tog (1 dec made); turn. 77 dc
40ECh 2, sk first dc, dc2tog (2 dec made), dc in each dc until 2 dc and dc2tog remains, dc3tog (2 dec made); turn. 73 dc
41ERep Row 39. 71 dc
42BRep Row 40. 67 dc
43BRep Row 39. 65 dc
44FBOBBLE: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog (2 dec made), bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until 3 dc remain, dc3tog (2 dec made); turn. 30 bbls
45FBOBBLE: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc in next bobble (1 dec made), bobble in next ch1sp, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble and tch dec remain, dc2tog (1 dec made); turn.29 bbls
46ACh 2, sk first dc, dc2tog over next bobble and ch1sp (2 dec made), dc in each bobble and ch1sp until one ch1sp remains, dc3tog over ch1sp, bobble and dc2tog (2 dec made); turn. 55 dc
47ARep Row 39. 53 dc
48ARep Row 40. 49 dc
49ARep Row 39. 47 dc
50DRep Row 40. 43 dc
51DRep Row 39. 41 dc
52ERep Row 40. 37 dc
53ERep Row 39. 35 dc
54ERep Row 40. 31 dc
55ERep Row 39. 29 dc
56BRep Row 40. 25 dc
57BRep Row 39. 23 dc
58BRep Row 40. 19 dc
59BRep Row 39. 17 dc
60ARep Row 40. 13 dc
61ARep Row 39. 11 dc
62ARep Row 40. 7 dc
63ARep Row 39. 5 dc
64ACh 2, dc4tog (4 dec made). Fasten off.1 dc

Blocking

Pin completed Section to blocking board. Steam block taking care not to touch steamer/iron to yarn. Allow to dry thoroughly. (If you’re anxious to continue, you can work on the Section #1 and #2 fringe while you wait.)

Section #6

Notes:

• Like Section #2, Section #6 is worked “even”, which means there is no increasing or decreasing involved.

• Ch 3 DOES count as a dc throughout. 

• Row 1 is worked directly into edge of Section #5. See photo at end of pattern for orientation. Row 1 may take a bit of fiddling to get the stitch count spaced evenly across the row. It’s better to tear out the row and try again rather than squishing too many stitches in at the end of the row or spreading them too thin. 

Attach color E yarn in corner of Section #5 in Row 27 on fringed side. (See diagram at end of pattern.) 

Place stitch marker in center of Section #5 edge where Row 1 will be worked. Determine center by folding Section #5 in half and placing marker in crease. Then fold each half in half once again and place marker in those two creases. Section #5 edge should now be divided into four equal sections.

Row #ColorRow InstructionsStitch Count
1ECh 3, place 21 dc evenly until marker, dc in marked “stitch”, [place 21 dc evenly to next marker, dc in marked “stitch”] twice more, place 22 dc evenly to end of row making sure to place last stitch in true corner of Section #5; turn. 89 dc
2ECh 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc including tch; turn.89 dc
3-4CRep Row 2.89 dc
5ABOBBLE: Ch 3, sk first dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until tch remains, dc in tch; turn.44 bbls
6ABOBBLE: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in first bobble, bobble in next ch1sp, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble remains, dc in last bobble, dc in tch; turn.43 bbls
7FCh 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc, bobble and ch1sp including tch; turn.89 dc
8-10FRep Row 2.89 dc
11-12DRep Row 2.89 dc
13-14ERep Row 2.89 dc
15-16CRep Row 2.89 dc
17BBOBBLE: Rep Row 5.44 bbls
18BBOBBLE: Rep Row 6.43 bbls
19-20FRep Row 7.89 dc
21-24ERep Row 2.89 dc
25-26DRep Row 2.89 dc
27ABOBBLE: Rep Row 5.44 bbls
28ABOBBLE: Rep Row 6.43 bbls
29CRep Row 7.89 dc
30CRep Row 2.89 dc
31-32ERep Row 2.89 dc
33-34FRep Row 2. Fasten off.89 dc

Blocking

Pin completed Section to blocking board. Steam block taking care not to touch steamer/iron to yarn. Allow to dry thoroughly. (While you wait, you can follow the finishing instructions for Section #5 below or work on the Section #1 and #2 fringe.)

Finishing

Weave in the ends on Section #5 that are across from side where Section #6 was added. All Section #5 and #6 ends across the top of blanket can stay exposed. Hooray!

Diagram showing sections of a modern patchwork blanket crochet pattern.

Joining Sections

Lay Sections #1/2/3/4  and Sections #⅚ out so they are aligned like the photo above. Pin ¾ to ⅚ evenly using stitch markers. Using existing yarn tails from Sections #3 and #4, zigzag stitch sections together. (Begin with Section #3 tail to seam that section and then switch to Section #4 tail for that section. This will create the most invisible join.)

How to seam patchwork crochet pieces together into a blanket.

How to Add Twisted Fringe to Blanket Edges

Notes: 

  • One piece of twisted fringe will be at the end of each crocheted row. The color of the fringe should match the color of the row.
  • Each raw row edge of crocheting needs four strands of yarn in order to create one piece of twisted fringe (incorporating any remaining tails from the blanket, plus additional strands of yarn).
  • It can be useful to anchor blanket edge down to get extra leverage. Pinning edge to blocking board is an easy way to work on the fringe.
  • See step-by-step twisted fringe tutorial below for visual explanation. This video tutorial by Two of Wands is also helpful:

1. Attaching Extra Strands

Thread 15” piece of yarn in appropriate colors through the raw row edges. Center yarn and tie in a single knot. (One piece of yarn = two strands of yarn for fringe.) Repeat at a frequency so that each raw row edge contains four total strands of yarn to be twisted into fringe. 

TIP: It can be faster to batch this in one color at a time, so you’ll add all Color A strands, then move on to Color B and so on.

How to add twisted fringe to a blanket tutorial.

2. Twisting Strands

In each raw row edge: holding two strands in each hand, twist in the same direction of yarn twist until strands are quite tightly spiraled. 

3. Joining Twisting Strands

Wrap sets of twisted strands around each other in opposite direction they were originally twisted. This should create a nice spiral.

How to add twisted fringe to a blanket tutorial.

4. Tying Off

Tie an overhand knot at end of fringe and trim excess yarn. Do your best to keep each piece of twisted fringe approximately the same length, accepting that a little bit of variation is what makes handmade patchwork blankets unique.

5. Repeat

Repeat process so that there is fringe along Sections #5 and #6 as well as along Sections #1 and #2.

6. Finishing

It can be helpful to pin blanket to blocking board for one final steam blocking if the sections need a little more convincing to fit into a perfect rectangle.

Wrap up in your new modern crochet patchwork crazy quilt and know it’s cozy to be CRAZY!

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Crochet patchwork blanket on the floor with bare feet standing nearby.
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How to Crochet a Patchwork Blanket – A Summary

If you love the playful look of scrappy projects, but dread weaving in the ends, this “crazy quilt” inspired modern crochet patchwork blanket is for you!
This is a summary of how this free crochet pattern comes together. Scroll up for the complete step-by-step instrcutiosn and tuotrial.
Gauge: 13.5 dc x 8 rows = 4”
Measurements/Sizes: 36 x 47” excluding fringe
Yarn Cost: $40-$60
Author: Jess Coppom

Materials

Yarn

  • Color: Lion Brand Pima Cotton Weight: 4/medium – 186 yds, 3.5 oz/100 g
  • Mademoiselle 762-184P – 2 skeins
  • Mineral Yellow 762-159S – 2 skeins
  • Spice [762-135] – 2 skeins
  • Cabaret [762-195R] – 2 skeins
  • Color: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton Weight: 4/Medium – 170 yds, 3.5 oz/100 g
  • Taupe [761-122D] – 3 skeins
  • Coffee Beans [761-125AB] – 2 skeins

Additional Supplies

  • Tapestry needle
  • Size J 6.00 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch markers
  • T-pins
  • Steamer or iron with steam function alternative: use a spray bottle
  • Blocking board

Abbreviations + Glossary (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • chsp – chain space
  • dc – double crochet
  • dc2tog – double crochet two stitches together (decrease of one)
  • dc3tog – double crochet three stitches together (decrease of two)
  • rep – repeat
  • RS – right side
  • sc – single crochet
  • sk – skip
  • slst – slip stitch
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • WS – wrong side
  • yo – yarn over
  • tch – turning chain
  • Bobble (bbls) – [yo, insert hook in st and pull up a loop] 4 times in same st. (9 loops on hook.) Yo and pull through first 8 loops on hook. Yo and pull through last 2 loops.

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):

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Permissions + Copyright

Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back to this page. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales photos.

Overall Pattern Notes

Instructions

Easy Crochet Quilt Pattern – Overview

  • 1. To ensure you have enough yarn to finish and that the measure of your blanket are as expected, check your gauge.

Sections 1-6

  • 2. Follow the instructions to crochet sections 1-6. Use the yarn colors as outlined or you can create your own random-feeling stripes.

Blocking

  • 3. Block each section to a blocking board to create right angles on each piece.

Finishing

  • 4. Join the six pieces together as outlined in the diagram.
  • 5. Add a twisted fringe on both shorter sides of your blanket.
  • 6. Block one last time, focusing on the seams between the six pieces.
  • 7. Wrap up in your new patchwork crochet blanket knowing it's cozy to be CRAZY!

Overall Pattern Notes

  • The stripes and color sequence are intended to look organic and random and therefore can easily be amended to your liking. Try using 20 colors instead of six or even working each section in a different set of colors.
  • To switch colors at the end of a row, complete the final yarn over of the double crochet using the new color. Fasten off color leaving approximately an 8” yarn tail. These tails will not be woven in, but rather incorporated into fringe at the end.
  • Scroll up for the detailed free modern patchwork blanket crochet pattern and tutorial.

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Comments

  1. jan says

    5 stars
    can’t wait to make this. I have all the yarn in my stash.(acrylic). Love the color combination.

    Reply

  2. Trish says

    Thank you for this pattern, it looks like a fun challenge. I won’t have trouble finding yarn of various amounts and colours. I made a temperature blanket (knitted) in 2022 and kept all the yarn left-overs in one big tote so now I can just grab that and start playing…no sorting of yarn types required, it’s all the same weight of acrylic yarn.
    I do especially wish to express my gratitude to you for the excellent and detailed instructions that you provide for your patterns. That is a very time consuming activity in itself for you but so helpful to us ‘yarners’. You are so creative and generous.

    Reply
5 from 2 votes (1 rating without comment)

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