Modern Patchwork Crochet Blanket Free Pattern

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If you love crocheting blankets as much as we do, I think you’ll find these resources really helpful.

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Supplies + Materials

Order an all-in-one kit from Lion Brand here.
• Lion Brand Pima Cotton (Weight: 4/medium –  186 yds, 3.5 oz/100 g)

• A: Mademoiselle (762-184P) – 2 skeins 
• B: Mineral Yellow (762-159S) – 2 skeins 
• C: Spice [762-135] – 2 skeins
• D: Cabaret [762-195R] – 2 skeins

• Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton (Weight: 4/Medium –  170 yds, 3.5 oz/100 g)

• E: Taupe [761-122D] – 3 skeins 
• F: Coffee Beans [761-125AB] – 2 skeins 

• Tapestry needle

• Size J (6.00 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge

• Tapestry needle

• Stitch markers

• T-pins

• Steamer or iron with steam function (alternative: use a spray bottle)

• Blocking board

Skill Level

This free modern patchwork crochet blanket pattern is an intermediate-level project.

Overall Patchwork Blanket Pattern Notes

• The stripes and color sequence are intended to look organic and random and can easily be amended to your liking. Try using 20 colors instead of six or even working each section of patchwork stripes in different colors.

• To switch colors at the end of a row, complete the final yarn over of the double crochet using the new color. Fasten off color leaving approximately an 8” yarn tail. Many of these tails will not be woven in, but rather incorporated into the fringe at the end.

• Because this blanket is reversible, the wrong side and right side designation isn’t given for each row. More helpful is to consider the way you’d prefer your diagonal stripes to angle in the finished blanket and be sure to construct your blanket accordingly.

• All written instructions apply to both right and left-handed crocheters. 

Print This Pattern: purchase the ad-free, printable PDF

Section #1

Notes:

• Section #1 is worked at a diagonal, beginning in one corner and increasing to the widest point, then decreasing until the opposite corner. It’s normal for this section to be slightly slanted before blocking. 

• To switch colors at the end of a row, complete the final yarn over of the double crochet using the new color. Fasten off color leaving approximately and 8” yarn tail. These tails will not be woven in, but rather incorporated into fringe at the end.

• Ch 3 DOES count as a dc throughout. 

Increasing

• Even numbered rows will always begin and end with an increase of two stitches (4 total/row).

• Odd numbered rows will always begin and end with an increase of one stitch (2 total/row). 

Row #	Color	Row Instructions	Stitch Count
0	C	Ch 5.	5 ch
1	C	Skip first 3 chs, 4 dc in last ch; turn.	5 dc
2	C	Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc (2 inc made), dc in each dc until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn.	7 dc
3	C	Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc (inc made), dc in each dc until tch remains, 2 dc in tch (inc made); turn.	11 dc
4	C	Rep Row 2.	15 dc
5	C	Rep Row 3.	17 dc
6	B	Rep Row 2.	21 dc
7	B	Rep Row 3.	23 dc
8	D	Rep Row 2.	27 dc
9	D	Rep Row 3.	29 dc
10	D	Rep Row 2.	33 dc
11	D	Rep Row 3.	35 dc
12	A	Rep Row 2.	39 dc
13	A	Rep Row 3.	41 dc
14	C	BOBBLE: Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc (2 inc made), bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn.	20 bbls
15	C	BOBBLE: Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc (1 inc made), dc in next dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until until last ch1sp, ch 1, sk next bobble, bobble in next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in tch (1 inc made); turn.	21 bbls
16	E	Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc (2 inc made), dc in each dc, bobble and ch1sp until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn.	51 dc
17	E	Rep Row 3.	53 dc
18	E	Rep Row 2.	57 dc
19	E	Rep Row 3.	59 dc
20	D	Rep Row 2.	63 dc
21	D	Rep Row 3.	65 dc

Decreasing

• Even numbered rows will always begin and end with a decrease of two stitches (4 total/row).

• Odd numbered rows will always begin and end with a decrease of one stitch (2 total/row). 

• Ch 2 at beginning of row does not count as a stitch, but rather part of the decrease.

Row #	Color	Row Instructions	Stitch Count
22	A	Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog (2 dec made), dc in each dc until 2 dc and tch remains, dc3tog (2 dec made); turn.	61 dc
23	A	Ch 2, sk first dc, dc in next dc (1 dec made), dc in each dc until 1 dc and tch remains, dc2tog (1 dec made); turn.	59 dc
24	F	BOBBLE: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog (2 dec made), bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until 3 dc remain, dc3tog (2 dec made); turn.	27 bbls
25	F	BOBBLE: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc in first bobble (1 dec made), bobble in next ch1sp, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble and dc3tog remain, dc2tog (1 dec made); turn.	26 bbls
26	B	Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog over next bobble and ch1sp (2 dec made), dc in each bobble and ch1sp until one ch1sp remains, dc3tog over ch1sp, bobble and dc2tog (2 dec made); turn.	49 dc
27	B	Rep Row 23.	47 dc
28	B	Rep Row 22.	43 dc
29	B	Rep Row 23.	41 dc
30	A	Rep Row 22.	37 dc
31	A	Rep Row 23.	35 dc
32	C	Rep Row 22.	31 dc
33	C	Rep Row 23.	29 dc
34	C	Rep Row 22.	25 dc
35	C	Rep Row 23.	23 dc
36	D	Rep Row 22.	19 dc
37	D	Rep Row 23.	17 dc
38	E	Rep Row 22.	13 dc
39	E	Rep Row 23.	11 dc
40	E	Rep Row 22.	7 dc
41	E	Rep Row 23.	5 dc
42	E	Ch 2, dc4tog (4 dec made); fasten off.	1 dc

Blocking

Pin completed Section to blocking board. Steam block taking care not to touch steamer/iron to yarn. Dry thoroughly and move on to Section #2. (If you’re anxious to keep crocheting, you may begin Section #5 of your modern patchwork blanket while you wait.)

Section #2

Notes:

• Section #1 is worked “even”, which means there is no increasing or decreasing involved.

• Ch 3 DOES count as a dc throughout. 

• Row 1 is worked directly into edge of Section #1. See photo at end of pattern for orientation. Row 1 may take a bit of fiddling to get the stitch count spaced evenly across the row. It’s better to tear out the row and try again rather than squishing too many stitches in at the end of the row or spreading them too thin. 

Attach yarn in foundation corner of Section #1. Place stitch marker in center of Section #1 edge where Row 1 will be worked. (Determine center by folding Section #1 in half and placing marker in crease.)

Row #	Color	Row Instructions	Stitch Count
1	F	Ch 3, place 23 dc evenly until marker, dc in marked “stitch”, place 23 dc evenly to end of row making sure to place last stitch in true corner of Section #1; turn.	47 dc
2-4	F	Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc including tch; turn.	47 dc
5	A	BOBBLE: Ch 3, sk first dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until tch remains, dc in tch; turn.	23 bbls
6	A	BOBBLE: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in first bobble, bobble in next ch1sp, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble remains, dc in last bobble, dc in tch; turn.	22 bbls
7	D	Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc, bobble and ch1sp including tch; turn.	47 dc
8	D	Rep Row 2.	47 dc
9-12	E	Rep Row 2.	47 dc
13-14	C	Rep Row 2.	47 dc
15	B	BOBBLE: Rep Row 5.	23 bbls
16	B	BOBBLE: Rep Row 6.	22 bbls
17	F	Rep Row 7.	47 dc
18	F	Rep Row 2.	47 dc
19-20	D	Rep Row 2.	47 dc
21-22	E	Rep Row 2.	47 dc
23	A	BOBBLE: Rep Row 5.	23 bbls
24	A	BOBBLE: Rep Row 6.	22 bbls
25	C	Rep Row 7.	47 dc
26-28	C	Rep Row 2.	47 dc
29-30	F	Rep Row 2.	47 dc
31-32	E	Rep Row 2.	47 dc
33	B	BOBBLE: Rep Row 5.	23 bbls
34	B	BOBBLE: Rep Row 6.	22 bbls
35	F	Rep Row 7.	47 dc
36	F	Rep Row 2.	47 dc

Blocking

Pin completed Section to blocking board. Steam block taking care not to touch steamer/iron to yarn. Dry thoroughly and move on to Section #3. (If you’re anxious to keep crocheting, you can begin Section #5 while you wait.)

Finishing

Weave in the ends on Section #1 that is across from side where Section #2 was added. All Section #1 and #2 ends across the bottom of blanket can stay exposed.

Section #3

Notes:

• Section #3 is worked “even”, which means there is no increasing or decreasing involved.

• Ch 2 at beginning of row DOES NOT count as a dc throughout. 

• Row 1 is worked directly into raw row edges of Section #2. See photo at end of pattern for orientation. 

Attach color D yarn in corner of Section #2 opposite fringe edge.

Row #	Color	Row Instructions	Stitch Count
1	D	Ch 2, dc in same row edge, place 2 dc in next 20 total row ends; turn.(Row 1 should span 21 total Section #2 raw row ends.)	41 dc
2	D	Ch 2, dc in first dc, dc in each dc to end of row, do not dc in tch; turn.	41 dc
3	A	BOBBLE: Ch 2, dc in first dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until 1 dc remains, dc in last dc; turn.	20 bbls
4	A	BOBBLE: Ch 2, dc in first dc, dc in first bobble, bobble in next ch1sp, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble remains, dc in last bobble, dc in dc; turn.	19 bbls
5	F	Ch 2, dc in first dc, dc in each dc, bobble and ch1sp; turn.	41 dc
6-7	F	Rep Row 2.	41 dc
8-9	E	Rep Row 2.	41 dc
10-11	C	Rep Row 2.	41 dc
12	B	BOBBLE: Rep Row 3.	20 bbls
13	B	BOBBLE: Rep Row 4.	19 bbls
14	D	Rep Row 5.	41 dc
15-17		Rep Row 2. Fasten off leaving a 36” tail. (Do not weave in.)	41 dc

Blocking

Pin completed Section to blocking board. Steam block taking care not to touch steamer/iron to yarn. Dry thoroughly and move on to Section #4. (If you’re anxious to keep crocheting, you can continue with Section #5 while you wait.)

Finishing

Weave in the ends on Section #3. You can do it!

Section #4

Notes:

• Section #4 is worked “even” right next to Section #3. There is no increasing or decreasing involved. (See photo above Section #3.)

• Ch 2 at beginning of row DOES NOT counts as a dc throughout. 

• Row 1 is worked directly into raw row edges of Section #2 and #1. 

Attach color E yarn in top of last stitch in Row 1 of Section #3. See photo at top of pattern for orientation. 

Row #	Color	Row Instructions	Stitch Count
1	E	Do not ch, 2 dc in next Section #2 row edge, place 2 dc in each remaining row edge of Section #2 (30 dc total); continue spacing 59 dc evenly across edge of Section #1; turn. (See photo above.)	89 dc
2	E	Ch 2, dc in first dc, dc in each dc to end of row, do not dc in tch, slst to top of closest stitch in adjacent row of Section #3; turn.	89 dc
3	E	Ch 2, slst to top of closest stitch in next row of Section #3, dc in first dc, dc in each dc to end of row, do not dc in tch; turn.	89 dc
4	C	Rep Row 2.	89 dc
5	C	Rep Row 3.	89 dc
6	B	BOBBLE: Ch 2, dc in first dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until 1 dc remains, dc in last dc, slst to top of closest stitch in corresponding row of Section #3; turn.	44 bbls
7	B	BOBBLE: Ch 2, slst to top of closest stitch in next row of Section #3, dc in first dc, dc in first bobble, bobble in next ch1sp, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble remains, dc in last bobble, dc in dc; turn.	43 bbls
8	F	Ch 2, dc in first dc, dc in each dc, bobble and ch1sp, slst to top of closest stitch in corresponding row of Section #3; turn.	89 dc
9	F	Rep Row 3.	89 dc
10	C	Rep Row 2.	89 dc
11	C	Rep Row 3.	89 dc
12	E	Rep Row 2.	89 dc
13	E	Rep Row 3.	89 dc
14	A	BOBBLE: Rep Row 6.	44 bbls
15	A	BOBBLE: Rep Row 7.	43 bbls
16	F	Rep Row 8.	89 dc
17	F	Rep Row 3. Fasten off leaving a 36” tail. (Do not weave in.)	89 dc

Blocking

Pin completed Section to blocking board. Steam block taking care not to touch steamer/iron to yarn. Dry thoroughly. (You can continue with Section #5 while you wait.)

Finishing

Weave in the ends on Section #4 of your patchwork crochet blanket. You’ll thank yourself later!

Section #5

Notes:

• Similar to Section #1, Section #5 is worked at a diagonal, beginning in one corner and increasing to the widest point, then decreasing until the opposite corner. It’s normal for this section to be slightly slanted before blocking. 

• To switch colors at the end of a row, complete the final yarn over of the double crochet using the new color. Fasten off color leaving approximately an 8” yarn tail. Many of these tails will not be woven in, but rather incorporated into fringe at the end.

• Ch 3 DOES count as a dc throughout. 

Increasing

• Similar to Section #1, even numbered rows will always begin and end with an increase of two stitches (4 total/row).

• Odd numbered rows will always begin and end with an increase of one stitch (2 total/row). 

• Ch 3 DOES count as a dc throughout. 

Row #	Color	Row Instructions	Stitch Count
0	E	Ch 5.	5 ch
1	E	Skip first 3 chs, 4 dc in last ch; turn.	5 dc
2	E	Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc (2 inc made), dc in each dc until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn.	7 dc
3	E	Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc (inc made), dc in each dc until tch remains, 2 dc in tch (inc made); turn.	11 dc
4	E	Rep Row 2.	15 dc
5	E	Rep Row 3.	17 dc
6	F	BOBBLE: Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc (2 inc made), bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn.	8 bbls
7	F	BOBBLE: Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc (1 inc made), dc in next dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until until last ch1sp, ch 1, sk next bobble, bobble in next dc, dc in next dc, 2 dc in tch (1 inc made); turn.	9 bbls
8	A	Ch 3, 2 dc in first dc (2 inc made), dc in each dc, bobble and ch1sp until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn.	27 dc
9	A	Rep Row 3.	29 dc
10	A	Rep Row 2.	33 dc
11	A	Rep Row 3.	35 dc
12	D	Rep Row 2.	39 dc
13	D	Rep Row 3.	41 dc
14	E	Rep Row 2.	45 dc
15	E	Rep Row 3.	47 dc
16	C	BOBBLE: Rep Row 6.	23 bbls
17	C	BOBBLE: Rep Row 7.	24 bbls
18	A	Rep Row 8.	57 dc
19	A	Rep Row 3.	59 dc
20	B	Rep Row 2.	63 dc
21	B	Rep Row 3.	65 dc
22	B	Rep Row 2.	69 dc
23	B	Rep Row 3.	71 dc
24	F	BOBBLE: Rep Row 6.	35 bbls
25	F	BOBBLE: Rep Row 7.	36 bbls
26	E	Rep Row 8.	81 dc
27	E	Rep Row 3. (NOTE: End of this row is where Section #6 yarn will attach.)	83 dc

Working Even

• In this portion of the rectangle, we’re decreasing on one side of the patchwork piece and increasing equally on the other. This creates a rectangle shape instead of a square like in Section #1. The stitch count also remains even in each of these rows.

• Even numbered rows will always begin with a decrease of two stitches and end with an increase of two stitches.

• Odd numbered rows will always begin with an increase of one stitch and end with a decrease of one stitch. 

Row #	Color	Row Instructions	Stitch Count
28	E	Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog (2 dec made), dc in each dc until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn.	83 dc
29	E	Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc (inc made), dc in each dc until 1 dc and tch remains, dc2tog (1 dec made); turn.	83 dc
30	D	Rep Row 28.	83 dc
31	D	Rep Row 29.	83 dc
32	A	Rep Row 28.	83 dc
33	A	Rep Row 29.	83 dc
34	A	Rep Row 28.	83 dc
35	A	Rep Row 29.	83 dc
36	C	BOBBLE: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog (2 dec made), bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until tch remains, 3 dc in tch (2 inc made); turn.	40 bbls
37	C	BOBBLE: Ch 3, 1 dc in first dc (1 inc made), dc in next dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble and dc3tog remain, dc2tog over bobble and dc3tog (1 dec made); turn.	40 bbls

Decreasing

• We now begin decreasing at the beginning and end of each row to taper to the last corner of the rectangle to complete our modern patchwork blankets. 

• Similar to Section #1, even numbered rows will always begin and end with a decrease of two stitches (4 total/row).

• Odd numbered rows will always begin and end with an decrease of one stitch (2 total/row). 

• Ch 2 at beginning of row does not count as a stitch, but rather part of the decrease.

Row #	Color	Row Instructions	Stitch Count
38	E	Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog over next bobble and ch1sp (2 dec made), dc in each bobble and ch1sp until 2 dc and tch remains, dc3tog over 2 dc and tch (2 dec made); turn.	79 dc
39	E	Ch 2, sk first dc, dc in next dc (1 dec made), dc in each dc until 1 dc and tch remains, dc2tog (1 dec made); turn.	77 dc
40	E	Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog (2 dec made), dc in each dc until 2 dc and dc2tog remains, dc3tog (2 dec made); turn.	73 dc
41	E	Rep Row 39.	71 dc
42	B	Rep Row 40.	67 dc
43	B	Rep Row 39.	65 dc
44	F	BOBBLE: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog (2 dec made), bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until 3 dc remain, dc3tog (2 dec made); turn.	30 bbls
45	F	BOBBLE: Ch 2, sk first dc, dc in next bobble (1 dec made), bobble in next ch1sp, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble and tch dec remain, dc2tog (1 dec made); turn.	29 bbls
46	A	Ch 2, sk first dc, dc2tog over next bobble and ch1sp (2 dec made), dc in each bobble and ch1sp until one ch1sp remains, dc3tog over ch1sp, bobble and dc2tog (2 dec made); turn.	55 dc
47	A	Rep Row 39.	53 dc
48	A	Rep Row 40.	49 dc
49	A	Rep Row 39.	47 dc
50	D	Rep Row 40.	43 dc
51	D	Rep Row 39.	41 dc
52	E	Rep Row 40.	37 dc
53	E	Rep Row 39.	35 dc
54	E	Rep Row 40.	31 dc
55	E	Rep Row 39.	29 dc
56	B	Rep Row 40.	25 dc
57	B	Rep Row 39.	23 dc
58	B	Rep Row 40.	19 dc
59	B	Rep Row 39.	17 dc
60	A	Rep Row 40.	13 dc
61	A	Rep Row 39.	11 dc
62	A	Rep Row 40.	7 dc
63	A	Rep Row 39.	5 dc
64	A	Ch 2, dc4tog (4 dec made). Fasten off.	1 dc

Blocking

Pin completed Section to blocking board. Steam block taking care not to touch steamer/iron to yarn. Allow to dry thoroughly. (If you’re anxious to continue, you can work on the Section #1 and #2 fringe while you wait.)

Section #6

Notes:

• Like Section #2, Section #6 is worked “even”, which means there is no increasing or decreasing involved.

• Ch 3 DOES count as a dc throughout. 

• Row 1 is worked directly into edge of Section #5. See photo at end of pattern for orientation. Row 1 may take a bit of fiddling to get the stitch count spaced evenly across the row. It’s better to tear out the row and try again rather than squishing too many stitches in at the end of the row or spreading them too thin. 

Attach color E yarn in corner of Section #5 in Row 27 on fringed side. (See diagram at end of pattern.) 

Place stitch marker in center of Section #5 edge where Row 1 will be worked. Determine center by folding Section #5 in half and placing marker in crease. Then fold each half in half once again and place marker in those two creases. Section #5 edge should now be divided into four equal sections.

Row #	Color	Row Instructions	Stitch Count
1	E	Ch 3, place 21 dc evenly until marker, dc in marked “stitch”, [place 21 dc evenly to next marker, dc in marked “stitch”] twice more, place 22 dc evenly to end of row making sure to place last stitch in true corner of Section #5; turn.	89 dc
2	E	Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc including tch; turn.	89 dc
3-4	C	Rep Row 2.	89 dc
5	A	BOBBLE: Ch 3, sk first dc, bobble in next dc, *ch 1, sk next dc, bobble in next dc; rep from * until tch remains, dc in tch; turn.	44 bbls
6	A	BOBBLE: Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in first bobble, bobble in next ch1sp, *ch 1, bobble in next ch1sp; rep from * until 1 bobble remains, dc in last bobble, dc in tch; turn.	43 bbls
7	F	Ch 3, sk first dc, dc in each dc, bobble and ch1sp including tch; turn.	89 dc
8-10	F	Rep Row 2.	89 dc
11-12	D	Rep Row 2.	89 dc
13-14	E	Rep Row 2.	89 dc
15-16	C	Rep Row 2.	89 dc
17	B	BOBBLE: Rep Row 5.	44 bbls
18	B	BOBBLE: Rep Row 6.	43 bbls
19-20	F	Rep Row 7.	89 dc
21-24	E	Rep Row 2.	89 dc
25-26	D	Rep Row 2.	89 dc
27	A	BOBBLE: Rep Row 5.	44 bbls
28	A	BOBBLE: Rep Row 6.	43 bbls
29	C	Rep Row 7.	89 dc
30	C	Rep Row 2.	89 dc
31-32	E	Rep Row 2.	89 dc
33-34	F	Rep Row 2. Fasten off.	89 dc

Blocking

Pin completed Section to blocking board. Steam block taking care not to touch steamer/iron to yarn. Allow to dry thoroughly. (While you wait, you can follow the finishing instructions for Section #5 below or work on the Section #1 and #2 fringe.)

Finishing

Weave in the ends on Section #5 that are across from side where Section #6 was added. All Section #5 and #6 ends across the top of blanket can stay exposed. Hooray!

Joining Sections

Lay Sections #1/2/3/4  and Sections #⅚ out so they are aligned like the photo above. Pin ¾ to ⅚ evenly using stitch markers. Using existing yarn tails from Sections #3 and #4, zigzag stitch sections together. (Begin with Section #3 tail to seam that section and then switch to Section #4 tail for that section. This will create the most invisible join.)

How to Add Twisted Fringe to Blanket Edges

Notes: 

• One piece of twisted fringe will be at the end of each crocheted row. The color of the fringe should match the color of the row.
  
• Each raw row edge of crocheting needs four strands of yarn in order to create one piece of twisted fringe (incorporating any remaining tails from the blanket, plus additional strands of yarn).
  
• It can be useful to anchor blanket edge down to get extra leverage. Pinning edge to blocking board is an easy way to work on the fringe.
  
• See step-by-step twisted fringe tutorial below for visual explanation. This video tutorial by Two of Wands is also helpful:

1. Attaching Extra Strands

Thread 15” piece of yarn in appropriate colors through the raw row edges. Center yarn and tie in a single knot. (One piece of yarn = two strands of yarn for fringe.) Repeat at a frequency so that each raw row edge contains four total strands of yarn to be twisted into fringe. 

TIP: It can be faster to batch this in one color at a time, so you’ll add all Color A strands, then move on to Color B and so on.

2. Twisting Strands

In each raw row edge: holding two strands in each hand, twist in the same direction of yarn twist until strands are quite tightly spiraled. 

3. Joining Twisting Strands

Wrap sets of twisted strands around each other in opposite direction they were originally twisted. This should create a nice spiral.

4. Tying Off

Tie an overhand knot at end of fringe and trim excess yarn. Do your best to keep each piece of twisted fringe approximately the same length, accepting that a little bit of variation is what makes handmade patchwork blankets unique.

5. Repeat

Repeat process so that there is fringe along Sections #5 and #6 as well as along Sections #1 and #2.

6. Finishing

It can be helpful to pin blanket to blocking board for one final steam blocking if the sections need a little more convincing to fit into a perfect rectangle.

Wrap up in your new modern crochet patchwork crazy quilt and know it’s cozy to be CRAZY!