This week we crochet ribbing to “frame” our patchwork masterpieces and add the finishing touches like buttons and pockets. Find Part 4 of the free pattern and video tutorial below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here.
This free crochet sweater pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.
Are you ready to finish your Patchwork Party Cardi!? I hope you’re feeling really excited about how your sweater looks right now and it’s just going to get better from here.
Keep reading for a few details on what to expect in Part 4 of the crochet along or jump down for the last portion of the free pattern and video tutorial.
The ORIGINAL Version of This Pattern
Now that you’re finishing up your LITE Patchwork Party Cardi, consider crocheting the companion cardigan next! The ORIGINAL pattern uses many of the same skills as this pattern, but in service of a more of a traditional patchwork look. Click the photo below to get the free pattern or pin the pattern for later here.
What To Expect in Part 4
The knit-look ribbing is crocheted directly onto our sweater edges, eliminating the need for any more seaming and creating a tidy border for our patchwork. We’re using Lion Brand Wool-Ease yarn (or similar category 4 yarn) to create a slightly more delicate look than the rest of the sweater, which used Scarfie–a category 4 yarn.
Lastly, we’ll add pockets, attach buttons and steam block our finished sweaters. All of these concepts are covered in the ORIGINAL step-by-step in the video tutorial.
Get an All-In-One Crochet Kit
If you’re new to the crochet along and haven’t gotten your yarn yet, the all-in-one crochet kit is a perfect way to make your Patchwork Party Cardi. This all-in-one bundle from Lion Brand includes the Scarfie and Wool-Ease you’ll need, plus a free printable PDF of the complete pattern (delivered digitally).
And if you’ve loved your Patchwork Party Cardi LITE and think you might like to make the ORIGINAL too, you can grab that kit here.
Want to Print the Pattern or Work At Your Own Pace?
As a reminder, you have the option to purchase the ad-free PDF of the complete pattern on Etsy here or LoveCrafts here. Not only does it include parts 1-4 of the pattern in one place, it’s formatted for easy printing and includes all the photo tutorials (with no ads!)
Don’t Miss Out On Our Future Free Crochet Patterns
Having you along for this patchwork crochet adventure has been a blast. We hope you’ll join our crochet crew by subscribing below. We send out weekly free crochet patterns and tutorials just like the Patchwork Party Cardi that will be sure to keep your hook from collecting dust.
Patchwork Party Cardi Video Tutorial Part 4
The ORIGINAL version of the Patchwork Party Cardi includes a very detailed video tutorial with each pattern stage. I focused on creating video support for the ORIGINAL pattern because most of the concepts translate to the LITE version as well.
This week’s tutorial walks you through the remaining concepts to finish your Patchwork Party Cardi. The ribbing and pockets are created similarly for both patterns, so go ahead and follow along with the video tutorial if you’d like a visual explanation. (Be sure to follow along with the written pattern below as well so you know the stitch counts for your particular size.)
NOTE: If you have an ad-blocker running, you’ll need to disable it to view the video tutorial below.
Patchwork Party Cardi LITE
Free Crochet Pattern – Part 4
Save this pattern to your Ravelry here.
Pin this pattern for later here.
Introducing a simpler version of the original Patchwork Party Cardi! This pattern uses the same concepts as the original with fewer total crocheted strips, which means less seaming for you. You’ll lean heavily on the ombre self-striping yarn to create a subtle, painterly patchwork effect. Adjust the length, combine a few colors, add buttons–this is a straightforward pattern you can put your mark on using beginner garment-making skills.
Order an all-in-one kit from Lion Brand here.
• Lion Brand Scarfie (Weight: 5/bulky – 312 yds, 5.3 oz) – 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) total skeins [(approx. 602 (753, 903, 1068, 1212) g)]
– Cream/Silver [826-216]
• Tapestry needle
• Size L (8.00 mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain main body gauge
• Size J (6.00 mm) crochet hook for ribbing
• Stitch markers or safety pins
• Needle felting tool (optional, but very helpful to avoid weaving in ends)
• (4-5) 1” buttons (optional)
|Size||Fits Actual Bust||Sweater Length||of Skeins of|
|of Skeins of|
Sample pictured is a L/1X on a model with a 38” bust. (Intentionally sized up for a looser fit.)
12 ehdc x 6.5 rows = 4”
Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
ch – chain
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sc – single crochet
scblo – single crochet through the back loop only
sk – skip
slst – slip stitch
slstblo – slip stitch through the back loop only
st(s) – stitch(es)
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over
tch – turning chain
ehdc – extended half double crochet: yo, insert hook, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through one loop on hook, yo, draw through all three loops on hook
ehdc2tog – extended half double crochet two together: yo, insert hook, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through one loop on hook, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw loop through, yo, draw through one loop on hook, yo, draw through all five loops on hook
Want some company while you crochet?
Get support (and camaraderie!) in the Make & Do Crochet Crew Facebook Group here.
Permissions + Copyright:
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back this post. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales photos.
Tips for Planning Patchwork Look:
• Reference Part 1 of the free pattern for tips on planning your ombre patchwork effect as you crochet.
How to Minimize Ends to Weave In:
• Reference Part 1 of the video tutorial or free pattern for a recap on how to avoid weaving in ends.
Overall Pattern Notes:
• Pattern is written for smallest size, with stitch counts for larger sizes following in parentheses: XS (S/M, L/1X, 2/3X, 4/5X). It can be helpful to highlight all numbers related to your size before beginning. When only one number is given, it pertains to all sizes.
• Ch 3 counts as 1 ehdc throughout.
More Free Make & Do Crew Crochet Patterns You Might Like:
• Ribbing is worked perpendicular to sweater edge and attached as it’s crocheted.
• It is easy to miss a stitch here or there with this ribbing technique so it can be helpful to count your stitches periodically as you go.
Bottom Ribbing Band:
Attach Ribbing Yarn to bottom left corner of sweater front as worn. (Left-handed: attach yarn to bottom right corner of sweater front as worn.)
With smaller hook:
Ribbing Foundation: Ch 14.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook and each ch to end of row, slst to next available st of sweater bottom, slst into next available st of sweater bottom; turn. (13 sc + 2 slsts)
Row 2 (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk slsts along bottom edge, scblo in each st until 1 remains, sc through both loops of the last st; turn. (13 sc)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each sc to end of row, slst to next available st of sweater bottom, slst into next available st of bottom ribbing edge; turn. (13 sc + 2 slsts)
Rep Row 2 and 3 until end of sweater bottom edge. Take care to end with a WS row (Row 2), even if it means only working 1 slst along sweater bottom edge for the last repeat. Do not fasten off.
Collar Ribbing Band:
With smaller hook and attached yarn:
Ribbing Foundation: Ch 10.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook and each ch to end of row, slstblo to next available st of bottom ribbing edge, slstblo into next available st of bottom ribbing edge; turn. (9 sc + 2 slsts)
Row 2 (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk slsts along ribbing edge, scblo in next 4, ch 1, sk next st, scblo in each remaining st until 1 remains, sc through both loops of the last st; turn. (8 sc + 1 ch 1 button hole)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each sc to end of row, slstblo to next available st of bottom ribbing edge, slst into next available st of sweater bottom; turn. (9 sc + 2 slsts)
Rep Row 2 and 3 until end of bottom ribbing edge, ending with a WS row.
TIP: To add button holes, work the following row every twelfth row for as many buttons as you’d like to include.
Button Hole Row (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk slsts along ribbing edge, scblo in next 4, ch 1, sk next st, scblo in each remaining st until 1 remains, sc through both loops of the last st; turn. (8 sc + 1 ch-1 button hole)
Continue in pattern of Row 2 and 3 around entire sweater fronts and neckline. When working the raw row edges along sweater fronts, place both slip stitches of each Row 3 into one raw row edge. (Therefore each main body sweater row will have a Row 2 and 3 line up with it.) Whether slip stitching into an ehdc and tch raw row edge, slip stitch through the “meat” of the raw row edge stitch so as to securely anchor ribbing.
At bottom of ribbing on opposite side, end with a WS row. Fasten off.
Sleeve Ribbing Cuff:
With RS of sleeve facing, attach Ribbing Yarn anywhere along final round of sleeve.
With smaller hook:
Ribbing Foundation: Ch 10.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in second ch from hook and each ch to end of row, slst to next available st of sleeve edge, slst into next available st of sleeve edge; turn. (9 sc + 2 slsts)
Row 2 (WS): (Do not ch 1), sk slsts along sleeve edge, scblo in each st until 1 remains, sc through both loops of the last st; turn. (9 sc)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 1, scblo in each sc to end of row, slst to next available st of sleeve edge, slst into next available st of sleeve edge; turn. (9 sc + 2 slsts)
Rep Row 2 and 3 until end of wrist edge. Take care to end with a RS row (Row 3), even if it means only working 1 slst along sweater bottom edge for the last repeat. Fasten off leaving a 15” tail. Repeat on second sleeve.
Use existing ribbing yarn tail and a tapestry needle to seam Foundation Row of cuff to final row. Weave in end and fasten off.
• See photo above for pocket placement and choose yarn shade based on what will look good in your sweater fronts. (If you’d prefer the pockets to blend in, use the same shade as the existing portion of the front that will be covered by the pockets.) Remember, you can also use your gauge swatch as one of the pockets!
With larger hook:
Foundation Row: Ch 17 (20, 23, 21, 23).
Row 1 (RS): Ehdc in fourth ch from hook, ehdc each ch to end; turn. (15 (18, 21, 19, 21) sts)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, ehdc in each st to end; turn. (15 (18, 21, 19, 21) sts)
Rep Row 2 eight (eight, ten, ten ten) more times to create a total of 10 (10, 12, 12, 12) rows. Fasten off leaving a 30” tail.
Make 2 pockets total.
• All joining can be done with a tapestry needle and leftover yarn tails where possible. Only add a new strand of seaming yarn if no tails are available.
Joining Sleeves to Sweater:
With RS of sleeve and RS of sweater facing out, pin sleeves in place. Take care to line up all “V” inset of sleeve with bottom of armhole as pictured at end of pattern.
Turn sweater and sleeve WS out so the right sides of each are touching. First join all main armhole edges to sleeve using a running stitch just as in Back section. Next, join sleeve “V” indent to bottom of armhole.
With RS of sweater facing out, pin pockets in place ensuring stitches are upright and pocket foundation row is at bottom of sweater. (See photo at end of pattern for pocket placement.) Whip stitch pockets in place.
Attaching Buttons (Optional):
Using a scrap of yarn in same color as buttons, sew buttons in place on collar ribbing opposite button holes. It can be helpful to count ridges of ribbing between each button to ensure buttons are placed exactly opposite buttonholes. (See photo at end of pattern for button placement.)
Lay sweater out flat. Using a steamer or iron held at least 5” away, aim steam at sweater taking care not to touch yarn directly. Focus mostly on any seams that need a little convincing to lay flat.
Throw yourself a patchwork party–you just crocheted your own cardi!