Believe it or not, two simple granny hexagons are the foundation of this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern. Part 1 of the free pattern is below, Part 2 is available here and Part 3 is here. You can also purchase the complete ad-free, printable PDF here.
Like building a campfire in the middle of a June thunderstorm, designing this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern did not come easily. I tore parts of it out so many times I thought the yarn might evaporate in my hands. (I’m pretty sure my husband doesn’t want to have any more conversations about the width of sweater stripes for a while.)
But alas, I’m so happy with the result! And most importantly, I think YOU will be able to make this modern cardigan really easily! The construction of this crochet hexagon sweater is what makes it so fun. Can you spot the two granny hexagons?
I know, right!? It’s like a magic trick! You crochet them and then–poof!–they just disappear into the coziest little lightweight sweater you’ve ever worn. Since we’re in on the business of making cool crochet things together though, let me pull back the curtain for you.
The two simple granny hexagons are what form the chest and shoulders of the sweater. Once they’re seamed in the back and shoulders, you’ll add rows of granny stitch lengthen the sweater in Part 2. You’ll also add longer sleeves, again with basic granny stitch (and some decreases if you’d like). Lastly in Part 3, you’ll pop a basic rectangular hood on the top to make your crochet hexagon sweater extra comfy and work a simple border around all the sweater edges.
Sounds pretty doable, doesn’t it? It is! I really love crochet patterns that look complex, but are actually made from creating simple shapes with basic techniques. (Check out my free Urban Gypsy Boho Bag pattern if you do too! And this chunky crochet hexagon sweater pattern is what originally inspired the idea for my version.)
If you’ve never crocheted a sweater before, the “Campfire Cardigan” would be a great pattern to start with. It’s also VERY customizable if you enjoy tweaking patterns to suite your body. I’ve included notes in each section on how you can take simple steps to adjust the pattern to your liking.
The yarn I used for this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern is from Lion Brand and it’s called New Basic 175. It’s lightweight and soft and I love how it resembles roving yarn. Plus, how great are these colors? Unfortunately, New Basic has been discontinued since I first designed this sweater. Lion Brand Heartland, Red Heart Colorscapes and Premiere Yarns Aurora serve as good substitutes.
RELATED: We love making garments so much, we even designed a crochet dog sweater for large, medium and small dogs!
If you’d like to peruse the entire pattern before you get started, you can check out Part 2 (here!) and Part 3 (here!) (Or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF of the complete pattern here on LoveCrafts.com or here on Etsy if you can’t wait that long! 😉 )
And as an overview, here’s a quick peek at the process of making the Campfire Cardigan from start to finish. I hope you enjoy this pattern!
More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns
Crochet sweater patterns don’t need to be difficult. In fact, most of ours are made with very simple shapes. Dive into the wonderful world of crochet garments with cardigans, pullovers, ponchos, shrugs and more!
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Purchase a kit that includes all the yarn necessary to make your own Campfire Cardigan, plus a printed copy of the pattern here.
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back to this post. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales photos. You can read my policies here. Now let’s make something awesome!
“The Campfire Cardigan”
Free Crochet Hexagon Sweater Pattern
Part 1
Sizes:
Fits actual bust measurements:
S/M: 32-38″
M/L: 40-46″
L/XL: 48-54″
Measurements of Finished Sweater (when laying flat):
S/M: Length: 28.5”, Chest Width: 17.5”, Arm Length: 21”, but easily customized
M/L: Length: 30”, Chest Width: 20.5”, Arm Length: 22”, but easily customized (see “overall pattern notes” below for more details on this size)
L/XL: Length: 30”, Chest Width: 23.5”, Arm Length: 22”, but easily customized (see “overall pattern notes” below for more details on this size)
Sample pictured is a size S/M.
Supplies:
• Lion Brand New Basic 175* (Weight: 4/medium – 175 yds, 3.5 oz)
– Color A: Café Au Lait – 3 (4, 4) balls
– Color B: Juniper – 1 (2, 2) balls
– Color C: Thyme – 2 (3, 3) balls
– Color D: Camel – 2 (3, 3) balls
• Tapestry needle
• Size L (8 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins
*This yarn has been discontinued. Lion Brand Heartland, Red Heart Colorscapes and Premiere Yarns Aurora serve as good substitutes.
Gauge:
• 3 granny clusters + 3 spaces = 4”, slightly less than 6 rows = 4” worked in double crochet granny pattern
Abbreviations and Glossary (US terms):
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
tch – turning chain
yo – yarn over
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
cluster – 3 dc stitches in same sp
rep – repeat
sp – space
ch1sp – the space created by chaining 1 in the previous row/round
ch3sp – the space created by chaining 3 in the previous row/round
Explanation:
Two simple granny hexagons are the foundation of this modern crochet cardigan. You’ll work two identical hexagons first and seam them to make the chest and shoulders of the sweater. Next you’ll add length with rows of granny stitch, two sleeves and a rectangular hood. Lastly, you’ll finish off the sweater with a border.
Overall Pattern Notes:
• Pattern includes sizes S/M, M/L and L/XL, but you can easily adjust the size of this cardigan to suite your body. To make a smaller sweater, crochet smaller hexagons. To make a larger sweater, crochet larger hexagons. Notes are given throughout on further customizations. Stitch counts at the end of each round are for sizes (S/M, M/L, L/XL).
• When crocheting larger hexagons for the larger sizes, the arm holes will also become larger. Some readers making the M/L or L/XL size have expressed that they’d prefer narrower sleeves. A Make & Do Crew reader, Laura, had a great suggestion to create extra space in the chest/back area without increasing the sleeve circumference:
Work a hexagon as outlined for the S/M size. Then on one side of the hexagon, work additional rows in the granny stitch back and forth to make that single side deeper than the rest. Repeat for the second hexagon. These two deeper sides will be what you seam for the back seam of the cardigan. (For an idea of how to add the extra rows, simply follow the “cardigan bottom” details for adding rows in Part 2 of the pattern.)
After seaming the back and shoulders as the pattern describes, add length to the bottom as the pattern outlines in Part 2. At this point, add additional rows vertically to the front of both sides of the cardigan in order to give it more coverage over your hips, stomach and chest. From here, you can proceed with the pattern as written and work the sleeves as described for the S/M size. I hope this idea is helpful for those wishing to customize their cardigan even further!
• When working in the round, sl st into the third ch from the beginning of the round to join.
• Ch 3 at beginning of round/row counts as 1 dc throughout pattern.
•The colors per round/row are simply a suggestion. Don’t be afraid to customize your cardigan as you wish! (Just keep in mind this may affect the yardage needed of each color.)
Hexagons
Notes:
• Hexagons are worked in the round with RS facing at all times. Do not turn work at end of round.
• Hexagons will not lie flat and instead be wavy. This is intentional and should not be considered a mistake in your crocheting.
• Corner spaces will always be comprised of 3 ch. Spaces along the sides of the hexagon will be made with 1 ch.
• When switching colors for a new round, there is no need to work the final 3 sl st of the round before your fasten off. Simply sl st to join the round and fasten off. When beginning a new round in the same color as the last round though, you’ll work the 3 sl st at the end of the round in order to get into the next ch3sp.
Make 2.
Foundation Round: Using color A, Ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in ring, ch 1, (3 dc in ring, ch 1) 5 times, sl st to join. (1 cluster/side)
Round 2: 3 sl st into next ch1sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in first ch1sp, ch 1, [(3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc, ch 1) all in next ch1sp] 5 times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch3sp. (2 clusters/side)
Round 3: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in first ch3sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch1sp, ch 1, *(3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) all in next ch3sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch1sp, ch 1; repeat from * 4 more times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch3sp. (3 clusters/side)
Round 4: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in first ch3sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to corner, *(3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) all in next ch3sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to corner; repeat from * 4 more times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch3sp. (4 clusters/side)
Round 5: Rep Round 4. (5 clusters/side)
Round 6: Rep Round 4. (6 clusters/side)
Round 7: Rep Round 4. (7 clusters/side)
Size S/M: Fasten off.
Sizes M/L and L/XL: Continue with next two rounds.
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (8 clusters/side)
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (9 clusters/side)
Size M/L: Fasten off.
Size L/XL: Continue with next two rounds.
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (10 clusters/side)
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (11 clusters/side)
Size L/XL: Fasten off.
All Sizes: Attach Color B in any corner ch3sp.
Round 8: Using Color B, rep Round 4. (8, 10, 12 clusters per side)
Round 9: Using Color B, rep Round 4. (9, 11, 13 clusters per side)
Fasten off.
Attach Color C in any corner ch3sp.
Round 10: Using Color C, rep Round 4. (10, 12, 14 clusters per side)
Round 11: Using Color C, rep Round 4. (11, 13, 15 clusters per side)
Round 12: Using Color C, rep Round 4. (12, 14, 16 clusters per side)
Fasten off.
Attach Color D in any corner ch3sp.
Round 13: Using Color D, rep Round 4. (13, 15, 17 clusters per side)
Fasten off.
Seaming Hexagons
Bring opposite corners of hexagon (the 3rd and 6th corner, for example) together to fold the hexagon into an “L” shape with the RS facing out. Repeat with second hexagon.
Orient folded hexagons with long sides touching as in photo above. Using safety pins or stitch markers, pin back seam of hexagons as well as the top sleeve seems. This is a great time to try your cardigan on to see if you like how it’s fitting around your back and shoulders. Customize the fit by adding or remove rounds as desired.
Using a tapestry needle and a doubled-over length of Color D, sew back seam using the mattress stitch. (Moogly has a great mattress stitch tutorial.)
Sew both seams on the top of the sleeves using the same technique.
Now you’re ready for Part 2 where you’ll add some length to the bottom and sleeves to the armholes.
That was so fun! Now what?
Invitation to our Facebook group
Come discuss crocheting hexagon cardigan patterns and lots of other projects and techniques in our Make & Do Crew Facebook group. Here thousands of helpful crocheters answer each others questions and share their stitches. Come join us here.
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Linda says
HI there!
Working on my first hexagon…
When I get to 9 clusters, I am not going to change colours…doing the sweater in one colour…
Please advise how I continue…just make more rows?
Thanks so much
Linda?
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Linda,
Yup, that’s exactly it! Just disregard any mentions of switching colors and keep working rounds until you have the number the pattern size calls for. 🙂
Jess
Linda says
Thanks Jess!
Almost ready to start second hexagon….
katie whysall says
You are so talented I enjoy making your patterns. It’s a good distraction from uni assignments lol
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Haha, I’m glad I can give you something do to! Have you ever crocheted in class? I always wanted to but never had the nerve! 🙂
Elizabeth Pond-Kirk says
How to I measure it to fit myself?
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Elizabeth,
You have a couple options. You can have someone help you measure your back from underarm to underarm and then choose the sweater size with a similar width. Alternatively, you can start making your hexagons and periodically measure them around your back/chest and shoulder. If you look at the photos, you’ll see how the hexagon folds to form the shoulder section, so you can even pin it together and try it on until you get the perfect fit for your particular body.
Hope that helps. Happy crocheting!
Jess
Autumn says
Thanks for sharing your lovely and ingenious patterns. I know a lot of time and effort goes into creating them, and I love the fresh, modern face all your designs have.
It’s so hard to find things done in granny stitch that don’t look dated, and this one is beautiful. I’m going to make it in a fuzzy wool for fall and add pockets and toggle buttons. I’m also going to take a stab at making a pair of your sweater boots with the same yarn (1 color only) to match.
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
I really appreciate your kind feedback, Autumn. I do put a lot of effort into these, but it sure is a lot of fun!
I totally agree about granny stitch. Working with it for this sweater really gave me a new appreciation for it. I’d love to see your sweater when you finish. I think the idea of adding pockets and toggle buttons sounds just beautiful!
Jess
Tracy King says
Amazing job Jess! It’s beautiful, classic and modern at the same time. Super stoked to try it!
Anne says
Is the Lion Brand New Basic 175 yarn available at any box stores or does it have to be purchased directly from Lion Brand’s website?
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hmm. Great question. Let me see if I can find out for you. It’s a new-ish yarn from Lion Brand so sometimes those aren’t in stores right away. LionBrand.com does periodically have free shipping though, which could be a great way for you to get it for a similar price to a box store. I’ll respond to this comment again if I can get an answer for you!
Jess
Jane says
My goodness, that is beautiful! I will definitely be trying that out after I am finished with my current project!
Stella says
Was there ever a Part 3?
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
There will be a part 3 published tomorrow! 🙂
Patricia says
I’ve been making this pattern in baby/ toddler sizes for over ten years and it’s so easy and fun to make.
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
It’s a great concept isn’t it? I’d really like to try sweaters for my daughters too. Maybe now is your chance to make one for yourself! 😉
Jess
Doris says
I can not figure out the fold on this sweater either . Please can you give us a tutorial.
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Doris,
I’m working on a video. 🙂 In the meantime, if you pick up two opposite corners of the hexagon (like the first and fourth corners, for example) and bring them together in your hands, the hexagon should sort of naturally form an L shape as pictured above. Then you can straighten out the edges, but this should get you headed in the right direction!
Jess
Elizabeth says
When I fold mine it looks more like a boot than an L. Is there supposed to be 6 sets in the center?
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Yes–6 sets in the center! Looking like and “L” is just right! 🙂
maria bucciarelli says
sei veramente molto brava nello spiegare……….
Jenn says
I’m loving this pattern. Is the yarn Chunky or Super Chunky? Can’t easily get the 175 easily or economically here in the UK although I really like Lion Brand!
Cheers!
Autumn says
An easy way to substitute the yarn is, go to the yarn company’s website, find the yarn called for in the pattern, look at the gauge (and yardage) information, and then just use a yarn that has the same gauge. The only thing that sometimes doesn’t work is using a different fiber, as that can have an effect on the way the finished garment looks/wears/drapes. In most cases though, wool can be used in place of acrylic and vice versa (unless knitting and blocking is required, then acrylic won’t work). I’m planning on making this sweater in a wool yarn (in fall colors) that has a slight halo to it for extra warmth.
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Thanks for this advice, Autumn! I’m sure many people will find it helpful! 🙂
Erica says
What a fantastic idea! This sweater is amazing and I love the colors you chose. I really enjoy making sweaters for myself, but I’ve never tried to write out a pattern for one. Thanks for sharing this. I’m going to have to try it out very soon!
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Thank you, Erica! Pattern writing is always so intimidating to me. What’s good about this one is that the hexagons do all the work for the shoulders and chest, so there’s less shaping for me to figure out. 🙂
I hope you enjoy making your sweater!
Jess
anne says
how do you 3 sl at the beginning of a round? is it like a chain stitch?
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Anne,
The 3 sl st go into the top of the 3 double crochet from the previous round. So yes, you do a slip stitch to join the round to the ch 3 at the beginning of the round, then you slip stitch into those three double crochet in order to move your yarn over to work in the next space. Does that make sense?
🙂
Anne says
it does, thankyou! is there a video tutorial for sewing the hexagons together?
Thanks!
Sarah says
Thank you! I was wondering the same thing….
Laura Lee says
darn! wish i saw this comment before i proceeded to “3 slip stitch into next ch3 space” for 7 rounds!!! it should say “3 sl stitch TO next ch space” !!!
Marja Benner says
I ask for a patron for this vest and payed for it
Please when do Get it Please???
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Marja,
Did you purchase the Campfire Cardigan pattern? If so, you should have received an email from LoveCrochet.com. If you search your email and don’t see it, please send me a note and I’ll email it to you directly. 🙂
Jess (at) Make and do crew (dot) com
Brenda says
Hey, ive brought the pattern and its missing some info?
I’m feeling pretty stupid as this pattern is so very hard to follow…like:
Round 2: 3 sl st into next ch1sp??? Its impossible to put in 3 sl st into one ch1sp…
Do you have a video of your instructions for this pattern???
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Brenda,
Thanks for your purchase. What info do you believe is missing? The pattern should include all the relevant info from the free pattern the blog post, but if there’s something you see isn’t there, I’d love to know.
Assuming that the part of the pattern you’re referring to is the hexagon, I think the confusion with the sl sts might be that the pattern says “3 sl st into next ch3sp” (not ch1sp). 🙂
I’m sorry, I don’t have a longer tutorial at this time. Please let me know if you have more questions though.
Jess
Edwina Thomas says
It should read slip st “to” the next ch1sp. So you are carrying the yarn over to the space where you will start your dc of this round. I didn’t figure it out until I had yarn and hook in my hand.
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Edwina,
Yes, that’s true, you do need to move over to the ch1sp. I just wrote it as the beginning of the next round instead of the end of the current round. Make sense? It works either way you think of it. 🙂
Jess