Believe it or not, two simple granny hexagons are the foundation of this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern. Part 1 of the free pattern is below, Part 2 is available here and Part 3 is here. You can also purchase the complete ad-free, printable PDF here.
Like building a campfire in the middle of a June thunderstorm, designing this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern did not come easily. I tore parts of it out so many times I thought the yarn might evaporate in my hands. (I’m pretty sure my husband doesn’t want to have any more conversations about the width of sweater stripes for a while.)
But alas, I’m so happy with the result! And most importantly, I think YOU will be able to make this modern cardigan really easily! The construction of this crochet hexagon sweater is what makes it so fun. Can you spot the two granny hexagons?
I know, right!? It’s like a magic trick! You crochet them and then–poof!–they just disappear into the coziest little lightweight sweater you’ve ever worn. Since we’re in on the business of making cool crochet things together though, let me pull back the curtain for you.
The two simple granny hexagons are what form the chest and shoulders of the sweater. Once they’re seamed in the back and shoulders, you’ll add rows of granny stitch lengthen the sweater in Part 2. You’ll also add longer sleeves, again with basic granny stitch (and some decreases if you’d like). Lastly in Part 3, you’ll pop a basic rectangular hood on the top to make your crochet hexagon sweater extra comfy and work a simple border around all the sweater edges.
Sounds pretty doable, doesn’t it? It is! I really love crochet patterns that look complex, but are actually made from creating simple shapes with basic techniques. (Check out my free Urban Gypsy Boho Bag pattern if you do too! And this chunky crochet hexagon sweater pattern is what originally inspired the idea for my version.)
If you’ve never crocheted a sweater before, the “Campfire Cardigan” would be a great pattern to start with. It’s also VERY customizable if you enjoy tweaking patterns to suite your body. I’ve included notes in each section on how you can take simple steps to adjust the pattern to your liking.
The yarn I used for this free crochet hexagon sweater pattern is from Lion Brand and it’s called New Basic 175. It’s lightweight and soft and I love how it resembles roving yarn. Plus, how great are these colors? Unfortunately, New Basic has been discontinued since I first designed this sweater. Lion Brand Heartland, Red Heart Colorscapes and Premiere Yarns Aurora serve as good substitutes.
RELATED: We love making garments so much, we even designed a crochet dog sweater for large, medium and small dogs!
If you’d like to peruse the entire pattern before you get started, you can check out Part 2 (here!) and Part 3 (here!) (Or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF of the complete pattern here on LoveCrafts.com or here on Etsy if you can’t wait that long! 😉 )
And as an overview, here’s a quick peek at the process of making the Campfire Cardigan from start to finish. I hope you enjoy this pattern!
More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns
Crochet sweater patterns don’t need to be difficult. In fact, most of ours are made with very simple shapes. Dive into the wonderful world of crochet garments with cardigans, pullovers, ponchos, shrugs and more!
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Purchase a kit that includes all the yarn necessary to make your own Campfire Cardigan, plus a printed copy of the pattern here.
Please do not publish or share this pattern as your own. You may make items to sell with this pattern. In exchange, please link back to this post. Do NOT use my photos as your own sales photos. You can read my policies here. Now let’s make something awesome!
“The Campfire Cardigan”
Free Crochet Hexagon Sweater Pattern
Part 1
Sizes:
Fits actual bust measurements:
S/M: 32-38″
M/L: 40-46″
L/XL: 48-54″
Measurements of Finished Sweater (when laying flat):
S/M: Length: 28.5”, Chest Width: 17.5”, Arm Length: 21”, but easily customized
M/L: Length: 30”, Chest Width: 20.5”, Arm Length: 22”, but easily customized (see “overall pattern notes” below for more details on this size)
L/XL: Length: 30”, Chest Width: 23.5”, Arm Length: 22”, but easily customized (see “overall pattern notes” below for more details on this size)
Sample pictured is a size S/M.
Supplies:
• Lion Brand New Basic 175* (Weight: 4/medium – 175 yds, 3.5 oz)
– Color A: Café Au Lait – 3 (4, 4) balls
– Color B: Juniper – 1 (2, 2) balls
– Color C: Thyme – 2 (3, 3) balls
– Color D: Camel – 2 (3, 3) balls
• Tapestry needle
• Size L (8 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins
*This yarn has been discontinued. Lion Brand Heartland, Red Heart Colorscapes and Premiere Yarns Aurora serve as good substitutes.
Gauge:
• 3 granny clusters + 3 spaces = 4”, slightly less than 6 rows = 4” worked in double crochet granny pattern
Abbreviations and Glossary (US terms):
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
tch – turning chain
yo – yarn over
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
cluster – 3 dc stitches in same sp
rep – repeat
sp – space
ch1sp – the space created by chaining 1 in the previous row/round
ch3sp – the space created by chaining 3 in the previous row/round
Explanation:
Two simple granny hexagons are the foundation of this modern crochet cardigan. You’ll work two identical hexagons first and seam them to make the chest and shoulders of the sweater. Next you’ll add length with rows of granny stitch, two sleeves and a rectangular hood. Lastly, you’ll finish off the sweater with a border.
Overall Pattern Notes:
• Pattern includes sizes S/M, M/L and L/XL, but you can easily adjust the size of this cardigan to suite your body. To make a smaller sweater, crochet smaller hexagons. To make a larger sweater, crochet larger hexagons. Notes are given throughout on further customizations. Stitch counts at the end of each round are for sizes (S/M, M/L, L/XL).
• When crocheting larger hexagons for the larger sizes, the arm holes will also become larger. Some readers making the M/L or L/XL size have expressed that they’d prefer narrower sleeves. A Make & Do Crew reader, Laura, had a great suggestion to create extra space in the chest/back area without increasing the sleeve circumference:
Work a hexagon as outlined for the S/M size. Then on one side of the hexagon, work additional rows in the granny stitch back and forth to make that single side deeper than the rest. Repeat for the second hexagon. These two deeper sides will be what you seam for the back seam of the cardigan. (For an idea of how to add the extra rows, simply follow the “cardigan bottom” details for adding rows in Part 2 of the pattern.)
After seaming the back and shoulders as the pattern describes, add length to the bottom as the pattern outlines in Part 2. At this point, add additional rows vertically to the front of both sides of the cardigan in order to give it more coverage over your hips, stomach and chest. From here, you can proceed with the pattern as written and work the sleeves as described for the S/M size. I hope this idea is helpful for those wishing to customize their cardigan even further!
• When working in the round, sl st into the third ch from the beginning of the round to join.
• Ch 3 at beginning of round/row counts as 1 dc throughout pattern.
•The colors per round/row are simply a suggestion. Don’t be afraid to customize your cardigan as you wish! (Just keep in mind this may affect the yardage needed of each color.)
Hexagons
Notes:
• Hexagons are worked in the round with RS facing at all times. Do not turn work at end of round.
• Hexagons will not lie flat and instead be wavy. This is intentional and should not be considered a mistake in your crocheting.
• Corner spaces will always be comprised of 3 ch. Spaces along the sides of the hexagon will be made with 1 ch.
• When switching colors for a new round, there is no need to work the final 3 sl st of the round before your fasten off. Simply sl st to join the round and fasten off. When beginning a new round in the same color as the last round though, you’ll work the 3 sl st at the end of the round in order to get into the next ch3sp.
Make 2.
Foundation Round: Using color A, Ch 4, sl st to first ch to form a ring.
Round 1: Ch 3, 2 dc in ring, ch 1, (3 dc in ring, ch 1) 5 times, sl st to join. (1 cluster/side)
Round 2: 3 sl st into next ch1sp, ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in first ch1sp, ch 1, [(3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc, ch 1) all in next ch1sp] 5 times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch3sp. (2 clusters/side)
Round 3: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in first ch3sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch1sp, ch 1, *(3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) all in next ch3sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch1sp, ch 1; repeat from * 4 more times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch3sp. (3 clusters/side)
Round 4: Ch 3, (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) all in first ch3sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to corner, *(3 dc, 3 ch, 3 dc) all in next ch3sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 1) in each ch1sp to corner; repeat from * 4 more times, sl st to join, 3 sl st into next ch3sp. (4 clusters/side)
Round 5: Rep Round 4. (5 clusters/side)
Round 6: Rep Round 4. (6 clusters/side)
Round 7: Rep Round 4. (7 clusters/side)
Size S/M: Fasten off.
Sizes M/L and L/XL: Continue with next two rounds.
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (8 clusters/side)
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (9 clusters/side)
Size M/L: Fasten off.
Size L/XL: Continue with next two rounds.
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (10 clusters/side)
Round 7 Repeat: Rep Round 4. (11 clusters/side)
Size L/XL: Fasten off.
All Sizes: Attach Color B in any corner ch3sp.
Round 8: Using Color B, rep Round 4. (8, 10, 12 clusters per side)
Round 9: Using Color B, rep Round 4. (9, 11, 13 clusters per side)
Fasten off.
Attach Color C in any corner ch3sp.
Round 10: Using Color C, rep Round 4. (10, 12, 14 clusters per side)
Round 11: Using Color C, rep Round 4. (11, 13, 15 clusters per side)
Round 12: Using Color C, rep Round 4. (12, 14, 16 clusters per side)
Fasten off.
Attach Color D in any corner ch3sp.
Round 13: Using Color D, rep Round 4. (13, 15, 17 clusters per side)
Fasten off.
Seaming Hexagons
Bring opposite corners of hexagon (the 3rd and 6th corner, for example) together to fold the hexagon into an “L” shape with the RS facing out. Repeat with second hexagon.
Orient folded hexagons with long sides touching as in photo above. Using safety pins or stitch markers, pin back seam of hexagons as well as the top sleeve seems. This is a great time to try your cardigan on to see if you like how it’s fitting around your back and shoulders. Customize the fit by adding or remove rounds as desired.
Using a tapestry needle and a doubled-over length of Color D, sew back seam using the mattress stitch. (Moogly has a great mattress stitch tutorial.)
Sew both seams on the top of the sleeves using the same technique.
Now you’re ready for Part 2 where you’ll add some length to the bottom and sleeves to the armholes.
That was so fun! Now what?
Invitation to our Facebook group
Come discuss crocheting hexagon cardigan patterns and lots of other projects and techniques in our Make & Do Crew Facebook group. Here thousands of helpful crocheters answer each others questions and share their stitches. Come join us here.
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TARA says
Made the M/L…had to leave off a few rows …sleeves are huge and to long.. sweater would have been way below my knees……so I do Love it .I will make another ..super easy only took about 2 days.. “this pattern was extremely fun , watching it come together ” thank you
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
I’m so happy to hear you found a way to make it work for you! You are a SPEEDY crocheter! I love those projects I can finish in a weekend!
Jess
Katie says
Hi. I haven’t started the cardigan yet, but I was wondering if the pattern would work well without a hood. Or does it just look strange? If the current pattern wouldn’t wrk well without a hood, do you have any suggestions on how it could be finished off or modified? TIA!
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Katie,
Yes, you could def make it without a hood! You’d just work the border round around the neck instead of the hood. 🙂
Jess
Carol says
Jess – I am struggling with the sleeve. The first round seems okay but I am struggling at the end of round one after the slip stitch into the top of the beginning double crochet to join. I don’t understand the 2 slip stitches to end of cluster. Where am I slip stitching? I have 3 single double crochets and spaces and it looks odd to me. Help?
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Carol,
The two slip stitches to the end of the cluster are there to move your yarn over so that the beginning chains of the next round are starting in a space instead of right on top of the cluster you just slip stitched into to join. Does that make any sense? So you’ll just sl st in the next two double crochets of that cluster that you just joined in and that’ll move your yarn over into a space.
Let me know if it’s still confusing!
Jess
Carol says
I think I must have done something wrong on the first round then. I attached color A to the middle of the sleeve cluster then chained 3 and then 1 dc in the next space, so that means there is no cluster when I come back around to join that first row, just that 1 dc in the middle of the cluster. I think this is where I am misunderstanding given your instructions in your comment.
Sandie says
Daft question should there be 6 sides to the hexagon or 5 think i have gone wrong?
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
There should be six sides! 🙂
Sandie says
Daft question should there be 6 sides to the hexagon or five? Ive GOT Only five think its wrong
Sue Pado says
Hi there. I have been asked to make this sweater for a friend of a friend who has a bust size of 50. I am awful at adjusting patterns. Could you please give me some help as to how big I need to make the hexagons so I continue with the sweater? And once I make the hexagons larger all I really have to do is make the sleeves longer and the body of the sweater longer, correct. The people isn’t near by so I don’t have her to try the sweater on. Thanks so much. I usually make baby sweaters so this is the first adult sweater I’ve made in a long time. I really appreciate your help and can’t wait to get started on it. I just can’t figure out how to make it a larger size (like a 2X).
Sue
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Sue!
My best guess is that you’d want to make a hexagon with a diameter of about 22-23″. You could always ask your friend to have someone measure from her spine to about her nipple line, or a little further to the center of her body. That measurement is how far apart you’d want two opposite sides of your hexagon to be apart.
Happy crocheting!
Jess
Kerry Frederick says
I have made part one with a 7mm hook. I did the smallest size and the sleeves still seem really wide. What is the smallest size hook I can make this with without is being too small? I need it to be the largest size but the sleeves are way too wide. Thanks!
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Kerry,
I’m not sure I can comment on the smallest size hook you could possibly work, but I did include some notes toward the top of the pattern on how to adjust it for smaller sleeves when working the largest size. There are some ideas there that might be useful. Assuming you’re too far along to consider those though, I would just work some extra decreases in your sleeve. 🙂
Jess
Robin reynolds says
How do you do the hood on the campfire cardigan
Dawn Baran says
Can this be made with a solid hexagon ?
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Yes, I think so! I’d actually like to try a version like that. You just want to make sure that when you fold your hexagon in half, it forms a “T” shape like in my photos above. Does that make sense?
Happy crocheting!
Jess
Hope says
I really love this pattern but I’m a little confused!!
How do you attach the new yarn in the 3chain space?
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Hope,
My favorite way of attaching new yarn is to tie a slip knot on the hook, then enter the hook in the ch3sp, yarn over and pull the yarn through. Then the yarn is attached and you can proceed with the pattern. 🙂
Jess
Dawn Baran says
I was wondering if this can be made with a solid hexagon. My girls abhor the granny stitch but I’m dying to make this for all 4 of them.
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Dawn,
Yes! I think it could. I’ve been wanting to try that as well. You’d just want to make sure you’re increasing each round (at the corners) by the same number of stitches as the pattern so that you can have a hexie that is able to fold in half like mine did.
Happy crocheting!
Jess
Kay says
I love the look of this cardigan and want to give it a go. What size hook do I need to use for it? Many thanks.
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Kay,
I used an L. All the other supplies I used are listed about in the “Supplies” area. 🙂
Jess