Crochet Sherpa Sweater Jacket - Free Pattern Part 1

Recreate the popular look of “teddy bear” fleece in this crochet sherpa sweater jacket pattern. By using fuzzy yarn and the most beginner Tunisian crochet stitch, we’ll make a fabric that looks decidedly not crocheted. Get the free pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here.

This crochet sherpa sweater pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.

Sherpa sweaters are everywhere lately and now you can crochet your own! While fuzzy yarn can sometimes be intimidating to crochet with, it’s quite straightforward when working in Tunisian crochet. If you’ve never tried Tunisian before, this entry-level sweater is a perfect place to start. Follow the included video tutorials to master the basic skills necessary.

Have you seen our other fleece-fabric pattern? The Sherpa Hoodie is made with fuzzy yarn, simple stitches, and it feels like you’re wrapped in a cloud. If this sounds like something you need, grab the free crochet sweatshirt pattern!

Read on for all the yarn and inspiration details or scroll down for Part 1 of the free crochet Sherpa Sweater pattern. Find Part 2 here.

If you'd like to have the entire pattern together in one easily printable document, you can purchase the complete ad-free, printable PDF here.

Can I make this Sherpa Sweater if I don't know how to Tunisian crochet?

I'll give you a strong YES on this one! This sweater uses only the most beginner Tunisian crochet stitch (Tunisian simple stitch) to make three simple rectangles that will become the fronts and back of your sweater. The sleeves require some basic increasing, but we've got you covered with a video tutorial for that!

In fact, we've got easy to follow video tutorials that'll break down the basics of this sweater in a matter of about 30 minutes.

VIDEO TUTORIALS:
Start Here ⇨ How to Tunisian Crochet for Absolute Beginners
- Use these skills to make the sweater fronts and back.

Then watch ⇨ How to Increase in Tunisian Crochet
- Use these skills to make the sleeves.

And please don't worry that you'll have to buy a load of new hooks. You'll need just one Tunisian crochet hook with a cable to make the Sherpa Sweater. If you do want to buy a set, I really like the Knitter Pride set because of the pointy tips on the hooks, although L is the largest size it includes.

If you tend toward projects with chunkier yarn, I'd try the Denise hook set that includes larger sizes. (Keep in mind that in Tunisian, you'll increase your hook by 2-3 sizes above what you'd use in standard crochet, so it can be handy to have larger sizes than you might typically reach for.)

How to create teddy bear fleece with yarn

Wanna know the best kept fuzzy-yarn secret? Here is what makes this crochet sherpa sweater so special--the entire sweater is made with the "wrong" side of the Tunisian simple stitch fabric facing out.

Why? Well, the usual wrong side of Tunisian simple stitch creates a beautifully smooth fabric with this fuzzy yarn. There's nearly zero stitch definition, resulting in a fabric that looks much more fleece-like than any traditional crochet or knitting. It's quite magical!

So speaking of the yarn, for this crochet sherpa sweater jacket, we're using Lion Brand Baby Soft Boucle to achieve this super cozy look. (We also used Baby Soft Boucle yarn along with Mandala in the Tributary Blanket to create a richly textured, quick baby blanket.)

I really wanted to polish this sherpa jacket off with some pro touches. Lion Brand Jeans Colors ended up offering the perfect solution! The color "Khaki" is a perfect compliment for the knit-look ribbed sleeve cuffs. These cuffs are made with standard crochet slip stitches (not Tunisian) and they're one of my favorite parts of this sweater!

But aren't the stitches impossible to see?

Here's the thing. I ordered this Baby Soft Boucle yarn a year and a half ago with the intention of designing a crocheted sherpa sweater. But then I swatched it with traditional crochet stitches and it just didn't look sherpa-ish enough to me. The stitches were quite difficult to find while crocheting, but then a little too visible in the final fabric.

Fast forward to this year, when I taught myself Tunisian crochet and became officially obsessed. I realized that because the stitches are worked by picking up one "bar" of yarn instead of looking for the hole of a stitch, it's MUCH easier to see where to place your hook.

Watch the brief preview video below to get a sense of how easy it is to work your Tunisian stitches in this traditionally tricky yarn.

click to pin this pattern for later ⇨

More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns

Crochet sweater patterns don't need to be difficult. In fact, most of ours are made with very simple shapes. Dive into the wonderful world of crochet garments with cardigans, pullovers, ponchos, shrugs and more!

See more free crochet sweater patterns →

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The Crochet Sherpa Sweater
Free Pattern - Part 1

Purchase the complete ad-free, printable PDF here.

Save this pattern to Ravelry here.

Pin it for later here.

View Part 2 of the free pattern here.

Explanation:
Sherpa or “teddy bear” style fleece is very en vogue and now you can recreate the look with yarn! By using the most basic Tunisian crochet stitch, we’ll make a fabric that looks decidedly not crocheted. Add some crocheted cuffs that appear knit and you’ll have yourself the coziest, snuggliest toss-on cardigan you ever did see. 

While fuzzy yarn can sometimes be intimidating to crochet with, it’s quite straightforward when working in Tunisian because you’re not searching for stitches in the same way. If you’ve never tried Tunisian before, this entry-level sweater is a perfect place to start. Follow the included video tutorials to master the basic skills necessary.

Supplies:
• A: Lion Brand Baby Soft Boucle (Weight: 5/bulky - 120 yds, 3.5 oz) - 11 (12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19) skeins [(approx. 1070 (1155, 1245, 1340, 1480, 1600, 1715, 1810) g)]
Pictured: Tan (#918-123)

• B: Lion Brand Jeans Colors (Weight: 4/medium - 246 yds, 3.5 oz) - 1 skein 
Pictured: Khaki (#506-123)

• Tapestry needle
• Size L (8mm) Tunisian crochet hook with cord length up to 16-20” (or hook size needed to obtain gauge)
• Optional: Size L (8mm) standard crochet hook (The sharper the tip, the better for crocheting slip stitch cuffs. Tunisian hook may be used as well.)

Sample pictured is a M on a 5’9” model with a 41” bust. For a looser fit, size up. 

Gauge:
4” = 11.5 sts

Because of the fuzzy yarn, vertical gauge is hard to count. Pattern gives instructions in inches instead of rows to account for this.

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
Bump - strand of yarn on underside of chain
Ch - chain
FwP - forward pass
Inc - increase
M1 - Make 1 (increase) see instructions in Sleeve notes
PM - place marker
Rep - repeat
RetP - return pass
RS - right side
Slst - slip stitch
Slstblo - slip stitch through the back loop only 
St(s) - stitch(es)
Tslst - Tunisian slip stitch (for binding off)
Tss - Tunisian simple stitch
WS - wrong side
Yo - yarn over

Video Resources:
• If you’re new to Tunisian crochet, watch an introductory tutorial that covers all the basics on how to Tunisian crochet here.

• Watch a video tutorial on how to increase in Tunisian crochet to learn the skills necessary to crochet the sleeves.

Overall Pattern Notes:
• Pattern is worked in Tunisian Simple Stitch (Tss). Row instructions are for the Forward Passes (FwP). 

• Work a standard Return Pass after each Forward Pass.

!! Gauge Check !!

Please don’t skip this step or you will risk your sweater not fitting.

To check gauge:

Ch 17. Follow instructions below for sweater back until swatch is 5” tall. Width of swatch should measure approx. 6”. (Vertical gauge is not critical.) If width is too small, increase your hook size and re-swatch. If swatch is too wide, decrease your hook size and re-swatch. 

Once appropriate hook size to meet pattern gauge is determined, move on to sweater back.

Sweater Back

With Tunisian hook and A:

Foundation Row: Ch 62 (65, 68, 70, 71, 71, 73, 73). Draw up a loop in second bump from hook and each bump to end of row. [62 (65, 68, 70, 71, 71, 73, 73) sts] 

Row 1: Tss in each st across. 

Rep Row 1 until rectangle is 26 (26, 26, 26, 27, 27, 28, 28)” tall. Rectangle should measure approx. 21.5 (22.5, 23.5, 24.5, 25, 25, 25.5, 25.5) wide x 26 (26, 26, 26, 27, 27, 28, 28)” tall. For a longer sweater, rep Row 1 additional times. 

Finishing Row: Loosely Tslst in each bar across. Fasten off.
(See this video tutorial for walk-through of binding off with Tslst.)

Crochet Sherpa Sweater Fronts

Make 2. 

With Tunisian hook and A:

Foundation Row: Ch 33 (37, 41, 46, 51, 57, 62, 67). Draw up a loop in second bump from hook and each bump to end of row. [33 (37, 41, 46, 51, 57, 62, 67) sts] 

Row 1: Tss in each st across. 

Rep Row 1 until rectangle is 26 (26, 26, 26, 27, 27, 28, 28)” tall. Rectangle should measure approx. 11.5 (13, 14.5, 16, 18, 20, 21.5, 23.5) wide x 26 (26, 26, 26, 27, 27, 28, 28)” tall. For a longer sweater, rep Row 1 until length is identical to Back.

Finishing Row: Loosely Tslst in each bar across. Fasten off.

Sleeves

Sleeve Cuffs

Notes:
• Slip stitches must be worked loosely. If you’re having trouble inserting your hook in each stitch, trying making them looser. The sharper the point on your crochet hook, the easier it will be to insert it into each stitch.

• For the tidiest edge, work the turning chain quite tightly. 

• Row 2 and beyond is worked through the back loop of each stitch. The back loop is always be the loop farthest from you even though the piece is turned after each row. 

• If longer cuffs are desired, chain additional stitches to increase the width of your piece. 

Make 2. 

With standard or Tunisian hook and B:

Foundation Row: Ch 17. 

Row 1: Loosely slst in second ch from hook and each ch to end of row; turn. [16 sts] 

Row 2: Tightly ch 1, loosely slstblo in each st; turn. 

Rep Row 2 until cuff has 22 (23, 24, 25, 25, 26, 26, 27) visual lines of ribbing. Fasten off leaving a 20” tail for seaming. Cuff should measure approx. 3.5 x 6.5 (6.75, 7, 7.25, 7.25, 7.75, 7.75, 8)”. 

Sleeves

Notes: 
• Sleeve section is written with both row counts and measurement instructions. Follow whichever is more intuitive to you. In either case, it’s helpful to place a marker in the increase rows so that it’s clear where to measure from. 

• Sizes 1X-5X only: The increases for the later rows are closer together and therefore do not include measurement instructions. You can place a stitch marker at the start of each row worked evenly and a contrasting st marker on each increase row to keep track, removing them after beginning the next increase row if you have a limited number of markers.

• To work M1: Insert hook between two stitches. Yo and draw up a loop (increase made). When working RetP, treat as a normal stitch. (See photos at end of pattern or video tutorial below for further instruction.)

• Watch a video tutorial on how to increase in Tunisian crochet here.

Make 2. 

With Tunisian hook and A:

Foundation Row: Ch 28 (30, 32, 32, 32, 34, 34, 34). Draw up a loop in second ch from hook and each ch to end of row. [28 (30, 32, 32, 32, 34, 34, 34) sts] 

Row 1: Tss in each st across.

Row 2 (inc): Tss, M1, Tss in each st across until 2 sts remain, M1, Tss in last 2 sts. [30 (32, 34, 34, 34, 36, 36, 36) sts] 

Rows 3-6: Tss in each st across. 

Row 7 (inc): Tss, M1, Tss in each st across until 2 sts remain, M1, Tss in last 2 sts. [32 (34, 36, 36, 36, 38, 38, 38) sts] 

Rep Rows 3-7 seven (seven, seven, six, five, four, three, three) more times. Piece should now contain 46 (48, 50, 48, 46, 46, 44, 44) sts. Sizes S, M, L move on to “All Sizes” instructions. 

Tip: If you prefer not to keep track of row counts for the above increases--each section of the five-row repeat measures 2” (the marked increase row and 4 non-increase rows above). Therefore you can PM in first increase row, then work non-increase rows for 2”. Work another increase row and move marker to this row. Repeat an increase row every 2” until sleeve is 46 (48, 50, 48, 46, 46, 44, 44) sts wide, then continue to instructions below for your size. 

Sizes 1X (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) only:
Rep Rows 5-7 twice. Piece should now contain 52 (50, 50, 48, 48) sts.

Size 1X: Move on to “All Sizes” instructions.

Sizes 2X (3X, 4X, 5X) only:
Rep Rows 6-7 two (four, seven, seven) more times. Size 3X only: rep Row 7 once more. Piece should now contain 54 (58, 62, 62) sts.

All Sizes:
Rep Row 1 three more times. Sleeve should measure approx. 18” long. For a longer sleeve, work additional repeats of Row 1. 

Finishing Row: Loosely Tslst in each bar across. Fasten off.

Okay! Head to Part 2 of the free crochet Sherpa Sweater pattern where we'll work some quick pockets, join all our pieces together and add a hood. Get Part 2 here.

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