In Part 2 of the Habitat Cardigan free crochet pattern, we’ll add the ribbed collar and sleeves to complete this very simple flowy sweater featuring Lion Brand Heartland yarn. View Part 1 of the free pattern here or purchase the complete ad-free, printable PDF with Parts 1 & 2 for $2.75 here.
The Habitat Cardigan free crochet pattern is part of an ongoing collaboration with my friends at Lion Brand Yarn. This post contains affiliate links.
It brings me so much joy to see how many of you have already started your Habitat Cardigans since I shared the first half of this free crochet pattern on Monday. You guys are go-getters with some serious cro-jo (crochet mojo 😉 )! If you’re not already part of our little yarn party on Instagram, I’d love for you to follow along and share your stitches by tagging me (@makeanddocrew) and using the hashtag #makeanddocrew.
As I mentioned in Part 1 of the Habitat Cardigan free crochet pattern, this simple, drapey, extremely comfy sweater is nothing more than a simple rectangle with a collar and sleeves–and not complicated, tapered, lots-of-counting sleeves. Just like the rest of the sweater, these extra long sleeves are made from simple rectangles. (And if you’re into the idea of crocheting cool sweaters from simple shapes, you’ll LOVE the free Campfire Cardigan pattern!)
MORE MAKE & DO CREW TUTORIALSThis sweater is perfect for beginners who want to tackle a larger, yet deceptively easy project and feel like a craft rockstar in the process.
The overall effect of this beginner crochet sweater is very flowy, figure-flattering and super soft, thanks to the Lion Brand Heartland yarn. This is the first time I’ve used this yarn and I just loved it! (In fact, I’ve already started another project using it.) Heartland is machine washable and just has a certain floppiness that works beautifully to create the nice soft drape in the Habitat Cardigan.
Stay tuned on January 19th for the complete video tutorial where I’ll walk you through exactly how to make this crochet cardigan step-by-step. In the meantime, you can order your yarn and get started on the main rectangle section of the sweater (included in Part 1 of the pattern). You can check out my video tutorial for the Suzette stitch (aka Grit Stitch) used in the main rectangle to learn the simple concepts needed to make the rectangle.
The Habitat Cardigan
Free Crochet Pattern Featuring Lion Brand Yarn
Part 2
Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF of the complete pattern for $2.75 here.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue here.
Pin it for later here.
Explanation:
Welcome to the world of beautiful, drapey fabric and tush-covering cardigans—made by YOU! No one will guess that this figure-flattering cardigan was made from a simple rectangle. The basic stitch pattern and very easy construction of this sweater make it perfect for beginners who want to make their first wearable garment. Made with extremely soft yarn for a cozy-but-not-too-bulky look, you’ll find yourself reaching for the Habitat Cardigan over and over again.
Supplies:
• Lion Brand Heartland (Weight: 4/medium – 251 yds, 5 oz)
– Grand Canyon (#136-122) – 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) skeins
• Tapestry needle
• Size K (6.6 mm) crochet hook
• Size J (6.0 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins
Sizes:
The oversized nature of this sweater will accommodate many body types. The sample pictured is a M/L on a 5’9” model with a 36” bust.
Bust Size*:
S/M: 33-36”
M/L: 36-40.5”
L/XL: 40.5”-44.5”
XL/2XL: 44.5”-48.5”
2XL/3XL: 48.5”-51”
* See additional details in Overall Pattern Notes in Part 1 to determine sizing.
Gauge:
10 sts x 10 rows = 4”
Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
tch – turning chain
hdcflo – half double crochet through the front loop only (see photo below for explanation)
st – stitch
sp – space
sk – skip
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
rep – repeat
Overall Pattern + Sizing Notes:
• View Part 1 of the Habitat Cardigan free crochet pattern here.
• A complete video tutorial for this pattern will be available 1/19/2018.
• Pattern is written in size S/M with M/L, L/XL, XL/2XL and 2XL/3XL following in parenthesis. S/M (M/L, L/XL, XL/2XL, 2XL/3XL)
ADDING RIBBED COLLAR
Notes:
• Collar is worked along the edge of the shrug/tush extension back and forth in rows starting at the bottom front corner of the sweater, working around the back of the neck and returning to the bottom front corner on the other side. (See first photo above.)
• When working Row 1, be more concerned with evenly spacing the hdc stitches so that the resulting collar looks smooth rather than the total stitch count. (See second photo above.)
• Ch 2 at the beginning of each row does not count as a hdc.
Use larger hook. With RS of fabric facing you, continue using yarn strand from tush extension.
Row 1: Ch 2, work hdc stitches evenly from bottom collar corner to opposite corner. To to this: hdc in each row of the tush extension, then hdc in each st along collar edge and again hdc in each row of the tush extension of the opposite side (be certain to work into final sc of last tush extension row as it can be hard to see); turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, hdcflo in each hdc to end of row; turn. (See photo below.)
Rep Row 2 22 (24, 24, 26, 26) more times to create a total of 12 (13, 13, 14, 14) visible ribbing “bumps” or rows of “V’s” running along collar. Fasten off.
SLEEVES
Notes:
• Sleeves are worked flat and then seamed into tubes.
• As in collar, ch 2 at beginning of row does not count as a stitch.
Use smaller hook. Make 2.
Foundation Row: Ch 28 (32, 32, 32, 32).
Row 1: Sk 2 ch, hdc in each ch; turn. 26 (30, 30, 30, 30)
Row 2: Ch 2, hdcflo in each hdc; turn.
Rep Row 2 16 (18, 18, 20, 20) more times to create a total of 9 (10, 10, 11, 11) visible ribbing “bumps” or rows of “V’s” running in sleeve rectangle. Fasten off leaving 24” tail for seaming.
SEAMING SLEEVES
Lay sleeve rectangle with WS facing you (this will become RS of sleeves when sweater is finished) and the foundation ch oriented to the top of the rectangle. Fold sleeve so foundation ch and final row of sleeve are touching.
Use single strand tail from fastening off and a tapestry needle. Seam sleeve by sewing through the two vertical posts of each st in Row 1 and the two back loops of each hdc st of the last row. (See photo below.) The purpose of seaming this way is to best hide the seam within the sleeve ribbing. Do not fasten off yarn. Repeat with second sleeve. Do not turn sleeves inside out.
ATTACHING SLEEVES
Turn main sweater inside out. If you’re confused by what is the RS and WS at any point, look at the place where the hdc collar edge meets the sweater. It should look like a smooth transition on the RS of the sweater and a little rougher on the WS.
Lay sweater and sleeve as pictured in photo above. Pin with stitch markers if desired. With tail left over from seaming sleeve, use the mattress stitch to join sleeve to sweater. Fasten off. Repeat with second sleeve. Turn sweater right side out.
Wrap up in your new Habitat Cardigan and feel the pride that comes creating your own coziness.
Now that you’re a crochet sweater-making machine, you might enjoy these other simple free crochet patterns from Make & Do Crew:
1. The Revival Scarf – free crochet triangle scarf pattern and video tutorial
2. Sunday Slippers – free crochet slipper pattern for women
3. Stonewash Shrug – free beginner-friendly, lightweight crochet shrug pattern
4. The Campfire Cardigan – free crochet sweater pattern based on two hexagons
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Why do you make your patterns so big, I find them so hard to see what I am looking at. No other site that I look at is like this. From what I can see they look okay but just can’t see anything on one page.
Hey Claire,
Do you mean that the font on the website seems large to you? I think that might be a browser setting on your computer/phone because the words don’t appear large on my computer or phone (nor are they set to be huge on the website).
If that’s not what you’re talking about, feel free to clarify and I’ll try to help!
Jess
Claire, if you hold down the CTRL key and tap the -/- key it will shrink the screen so you can see more at once.
Finally making ME something after the hoidays! Purchased the yarn in glacier Bay today
I like the idea of the tush extension,I have enough tush 😂 so making it a bit longer is appealing!
Thank you again.😀 I’m excited!
Oooh yay! I love that Glacier Bay color!
I’m glad you like the tush extension. For me, it’s what I look for in every sweater. 🙂
Jess
I was so scared of making a sweater or clothes (think bad 70’s patterns)! This sweater is beautiful and since I’ve spent the last 2 months making blankets, I think I can do this! Thank you for easy to follow instructions.
You can do it!! It’s very similar to making a blanket, so you’ll be an expert! 😉
Jess
I am currently working on the body of this cardigan and still have a long way to go before it’s finished. I have already finished the Campfire Cardigan and absolutely love how it turned out, and get a ton of compliments when I wear it! I’m excited to get this one finished too! Thank you so much for providing such great, free patterns!
Yay! I’m so happy to hear that, Mara! It’s my pleasure!
Jess
When i made my cardigan, the rectangle size for m/l was 44.5 x 25. Now it is 41 x 25. Why is this?
Hey Ruby,
After getting some feedback on the gauge/stitch count/rectangle sizes, I adjusted the total rectangle sizes to better reflect what size you should end up with given the beginning chains. 🙂
In any case, a few inches won’t drastically affect the fit of this cardigan because it has so much positive ease to begin with.
Jess
I just finished the Habitat Cardigan and love it. I used a merino wool which was maybe a bit thicker than what the pattern called for so my cardigan is a bit denser I’d say. For mine and changed it up a little bit too. I used a standard double crochet on the rectangle for kicks and it’s pretty decent I also had two shades of brown wool so I created large stripes on the back and then used the darker shade for the collar. I think I’d try the stitch in the pattern next time though. I also should have made the M/L rather than the S/M but I still love it and the color combination worked out well. Was forced into that by availability of the wool I had. Only took me a month to complete working on it in my spare time so I’m very pleased with the results and will definitely try some other patters next!
I love this pattern and i am finishing up the sleeves right now. When i try this on though, it bunches up at my lower back / butt. Did u do something wrong ?
Also – the sleeves seems too “baggy underneath. Although everything is done n the main body like the collar, is there a way to fix / change ?
I did mine in Bernat POP yarn. It’s definitely beautiful. Nice to make something for myself.
Yay! I bet that’s beautiful!
Question…I am doing the collar rows, and I completed 1 sleeve using the flohdc as in your pattern. I’m not getting the same look that you have —the v’s—. Every row is flo, right? Not flo for one row, then blo for the next row? Thanks!
Hey Kathy,
Yes, every row is worked only through the front loop. Perhaps you’re accidentally working through the middle loop and not the front loop? (There should be three different loops to choose from.)
Does that make any sense?
I am almost finished with my version of the Habitat Cardigan in Heartland Badlands. It is beautiful! As I was finishing up the second sleeve, though, I discovered that your idea of HDCFLO is not the same one I used (which is used in all the other crochet patterns that I’ve seen in the last 15 years). Like Kathy ^. I also was confused as to why my collar rows didn’t look like yours. I thought it was because the stitches are loose since the hook is large for the yarn, but I just looked closely at the picture, and discovered that you are going under a different part of the stitch. Oh, well, it still looks ok. I usually have to make a prototype to get sizing right for a pattern anyway. Overall, I love this pattern, because it is so easy and fits more like a cardigan than a big blanket. However, you really should call your stitch something else besides HDCFLO. That’s not what it is.
I plan to make another one for my daughter, and I will use your version of HDCFLO this time!
Thanks for sharing your lovely pattern.
Thanks for your feedback, Paula. I always want my patterns to be as clear as possible, which is why I included the photo with the arrows pointing to the specific loop to work under. I’mg glad you’re happy with your sweater and planning to make another one. Lucky daughter you have!
Jess
I am making this now and I can’t wait to finish it!
After reading the instructions for the sleeves, do I need to turn the sleeves inside out too? (This is where I’m at now.)
Nope, you don’t turn them inside out. 🙂
Hi Jess, I absolutely love all your patterns and thank you so much for sharing all the free versions of them! I have some DK yarn that I need to use and I’m wondering if you think I could use it for this pattern to make a lighter weight version of it?
Hey Gina,
Thanks so much for your kind words. I think you could use DK weight, but you’d need to adjust the number of chains and rows of your first rectangle a bit to get the desired total rectangle size. My suggestion would be to make a gauge swatch and then use that to figure out if you could follow the instructions for a larger size and still create the measurements you’d need (for your actual size.)
Does that make sense?
Jess
I could make an entire Pinterest board to itself with the fantastic free patterns you offer. Thank you so much for doing that because I know it takes a lot of time and effort to put them together.
I thought this pattern was extremely well-written and easy to follow! I made mine with pink Heartland Denali yarn from the dollar bin on Lion Brand’s website. It was not necessarily my first choice, but I wanted to try out the pattern. Now my sister-in-law and I are going to do a crochet-along with a color I prefer (probably the one you pictured, actually…). She fell in love with my sweater and is newer to crochet, but I am positive your pattern is going to give her the confidence to try lots more. Thank you so much!!
Hey, by front loop of hdc you mean the third loop right?
I mean the loop that’s closest to your body when you’re crocheting. Does that make sense? 🙂
is 300 grams enough for making this sweater?is aryclic yarn ok ? if say i couls start doing this beautiful sweater