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Easy C2C Crochet Kimono Sweater Made from Rectangles – Free Pattern!

Corner to corner crochet (c2c) short sleeved cardigan with triangle, tribal stripes on back. Free pattern featuring Lion Brand ZZ Twist yarn.

A few basic rectangles come together to form a gorgeously drapy, on-trend sweater in this simple corner to corner crochet kimono pattern. Get the free pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with written line-by-line C2C instructions here.

A few basic rectangles come together to form a gorgeously drapy, on-trend garment in this simple corner to corner crochet kimono pattern. Plenty of C2C video tutorials included with the pattern--this cardigan will surprise you with how easy it is!

This free c2c crochet kimono pattern is part of a collaboration with my friends at LionBrand.com. This post contains affiliate links.

I’m so excited to share this corner to corner crochet kimono pattern with you for two reasons. First, my mom and I designed it together and the finished product actually turned out better than I had hoped. How often does that happen? Unfortunately, not very often around here. Secondly, I hope this short sleeved cardigan gives a glimpse into what is possible with C2C crochet. (Hint: It’s not just for blankets!)

How to Corner To Corner Crochet

If this is your first time using a c2c crochet pattern, be sure to take a look at the photo and video tutorials below to learn the basics. These tutorials cover how to crochet the diagonal box stitch, which is what is used in corner to corner crochet as well as how to change colors in c2c crochet and some tips for managing your yarn.

VIDEO TUTORIAL: How to Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle

PHOTO TUTORIAL: How to Change Colors in C2C

PHOTO TUTORIAL: Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle

And here are a few more free corner to corner crochet patterns you might enjoy:

Free corner to corner crochet (c2c) patterns from Make & Do Crew including graphs and written patterns.
Be a Deer Blanket / Nordic Super Scarf / Christmas Afghan

A Beginner C2C Crochet Pattern

Believe it or not, this crochet kimono pattern is actually deceptively easy because the stripes are created using the natural bias that forms with C2C. There aren’t a ton of colors to wrangle or ends to weave in, which means this cardigan works up quickly with minimal fuss. This is not one to be intimidated by!

A few basic rectangles come together to form a gorgeously drapy, tribal garment in this simple corner to corner crochet kimono pattern. Plenty of C2C video tutorials included with the pattern--this cardigan will surprise you with how easy it is!

You’ll crochet four C2C rectangles, sew them together and then add sleeves and ribbing directly to the kimono (with no additional seaming!)

The rectangles can be worked directly from the free graph patterns linked below or, if you prefer written C2C instructions, you can grab line-by-line instructions for the graphs in the ad-free printable PDF. If you’ve never read a corner to corner crochet graph pattern before, check out this tutorial.

Free crochet kimono cardigan pattern made with Lion Brand ZZ Twist in Taupe and Ecru.

A Yarn All Crocheters Must Try!

I cannot wait to tell you about this new yarn! Honestly, sometimes I find myself thinking “What can be done in yarn “innovation” really? I mean, isn’t an acrylic an acrylic an acrylic?”

Well, Lion Brand has really shut down my ponderings with their new ZZ Twist yarn, which is shockingly 100% acrylic, yet you’d never be able to tell from touching it. In fact, I was at a party recently and a knitter (who–let’s be frank–are sometimes a bit more snobby about yarn than crocheters) asked it if was silk! It’s that soft and floppy.

Learn how to make this easy pocketed crochet kimono pattern (with plus sizes!) made from three simple rectangles! Free c2c crochet pattern and tutorial.

In addition to being extremely smooth and drapey, this yarn is wound in the opposite direction most yarn is, which apparently makes it even easier for specifically crocheters to use. I know, weird, huh? I never thought that made a difference, but this yarn is truly a dream to work with and somehow is also really affordable. You can shop all the gorgeous, saturated colors here.

UPDATE: Lion Brand has turned the Free Range Kimono into a crochet kit! You’ll receive all the yarn you need to make your own, plus a printed copy of the pattern. Grab your kit here!

Free Range Corner To Corner Crochet Kimono
Free Pattern

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with graphs + line-by-line C2C instructions HERE.

Save this pattern to your Ravelry favorites or queue HERE.

Pin it for later HERE

Explanation:
Corner-to-corner crochet isn’t just for blankets! In this pattern, the easy and speedy diagonal box stitch (C2C) and flatteringly soft and drapy yarn come together for a garment that’s surprisingly simple to make. You’ll take advantage of C2C crochet’s diagonal nature to almost effortlessly add visual interest to the back of the kimono, while keeping the pocketed front clean and on-trend. Pair it with a swimsuit, leggings or jeans for a comfortable, relaxed kimono that can transition from season-to-season.

If you’ve never tried corner-to-corner crochet before, there are several free video and photo tutorials listed below. This is a relatively easy first C2C pattern to try.

Supplies:
This pattern contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
Purchase a kit with all the yarn + a printed copy of the pattern here.
• Lion Brand ZZ Twist (Weight: 4/medium –  246 yds, 3.5 oz)
– Main Color: Taupe (#763-122) – 8 (10, 10) skeins
– Accent Color: Ecru (#763-098) – 1(1,1) skeins
Graph patterns for C2C rectangles (print here) Optional: written line-by-line graph instructions in the ad-free PDF
• Tapestry needle
• Size J (5.75 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins

Sizes:
Size: S/M, (L/XL, 2X/3X)

Length of finished garment: 27.5” (28.25”, 28.25”)

Fits Bust: 32-38”, (40-46”, 48-54”)

Fit is intended to be oversized. Size down for more fitted look.

Model is 5’9” with a 36” bust and is wearing a S/M.

Gauge:
2.75” = 4 tiles
Each tile = approximately .69”

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
bpdc – back post double crochet
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
PM – place marker
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
tch – turning chain
tile – one c2c box in a graph (6 total chains + 3 double crochet)
WS – wrong side

Additional Corner-to-Corner Crochet Resources:
• Help with learning corner-to-corner-crochet basics can be found here:

VIDEO TUTORIAL: How to Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle

PHOTO TUTORIAL: How to Change Colors in C2C

PHOTO TUTORIAL: Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle

Overall Pattern + Sizing Notes:
• All c2c graphs are worked using a double crochet stitch.

• Pattern is written for smallest size with larger sizes following in parenthesis. S/M, (L/XL, 2X/3X). When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.

• Before beginning, make a c2c square with 6 tiles on each side. Measure four middle tiles in each direction and average the result to check gauge. This is very important in ensuring garment fit.

• As in any c2c rectangle or square, all rows in pattern begin with either increasing or decreasing. This pattern refers to “increasing” as adding one tile per row. The first half of any square or rectangle involves increasing at the beginning of each row. Once you have finished longest row in graph, each row will begin by “decreasing.” A decrease row eliminates one tile from each row, thereby creating a flat edge on the side of the decrease.

MAIN KIMONO PIECES

Using a double crochet c2c stitch, follow graphs to create one Left Back, one Right Back and two Fronts in appropriate size. If desired, written, line-by-line C2C graph instructions for each size can be found in the PDF.

JOINING KIMONO PIECES

Notes:
• All vertical seams are worked from bottom of the kimono upward.

Lay Left Back and Right Back down so that they are forming an arrow as in photo below. Using a tapestry and single strand of main color yarn, use mattress stitch to join both pieces along center back. Add an additional tapestry needle and strand of accent color yarn when first accent color tiles are reached. Use appropriate color yarn to seam each section of back tiles.

The side facing you is now the WS. Continuing with WS facing up and mattress stitch, seam a Front piece to each the Left Back and Right Back. On each side, fasten off after 25 tiles have been seamed so that 15 (16, 17)  tiles remain for the armhole. With both WS facing out, seam shoulders in same fashion, beginning at outer shoulder and working toward neck.

How to crochet a kimono cardigan from basic corner-to-corner rectangles. The geometric tribal pattern is easier than it looks!

POCKETS

Using main color, make 2 corner-to-corner squares that measure 11×11 tiles. To reduce number of ends to weave in, simply keep yarn attached at end of making pocket and either set aside or move directly onto the “Pocket Ribbing” section.

SLEEVES

Notes:
• Sleeve is added by seamlessly adding an additional C2C rectangle to the armhole of the garment and then seaming. If this part causes confusion, please see the detailed photo tutorial in ad-free PDF for step-by-step instructions (right and left-handed tutorial included). Additionally, you can watch a video tutorial of the technique here.

Attach main color yarn near armhole at side seam. See photo below for specific instructions on placement.

Row 1: Ch 6, dc in fourth ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 ch, sl st between first and second tiles along armhole (tile made). (1 tile)

Row 2: Ch 3, sl st between second and third tiles, turn, ch 3, 3 dc in ch3sp (tile made), finish row by working 1 additional c2c tile; turn. (2 tiles)

Row 3: Work a typical increase row of c2c tiles; at end of row: sl st in next sp between tiles along armhole edge.

Row 4: Ch 3, sl st in next sp between tiles along armhole edge, turn, ch 3, 3 dc in ch3sp (tile made), finish row by working additional c2c tiles to end of row; turn.

Rep Rows 3 and 4 until additional rectangle is 6 (6,7) tiles high. This is the corner, so decrease tiles will now be worked for all rows that begin at the end of sleeve. This is exactly like working the rectangles for back and front pieces, but bottom edge is of sleeve rectangle is just attached to the garment.

Continue working in pattern until c2c tiles encircle the armhole and you’re back at Row 1. The last tile will now form the second underarm sleeve edge.

Work additional rows of c2c tiles, beginning with a decrease stitch for all rows now, until rectangle is complete. Do not fasten off. Move on to sleeve ribbing below.

RIBBING

Notes:
• Ribbing is worked the same for the bottom, front/collar, sleeves and pockets.

• If you’ve never done post stitch ribbing before, you may want to check out this video tutorial. While it’s for a different cardigan, the technique of working post stitches is the same. (See the 14:00 mark to learn about ribbing.)

• Ch 3 always counts as a dc.

• When working Row 1 of ribbing, place stitches at the following intervals:

• 3 dc in each vertical tile. (This will look like the short side of a c2c tile and stitches will be worked into 3 dc of C2C tile.)

• 2 dc in each horizontal tile. (This will look like the long side of a c2c tile and stitches will be worked under ch 3 of tile.)

Sleeve Ribbing

Begin with RS of sleeve facing out. Right-handed crocheters, attach yarn in right corner. Left-handed crocheters, attach yarn in left corner.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc across to opposite Sleeve corner, using the frequency of stitches described in the notes above. Add one dc in the final tile if necessary to create an even number of total dc, including ch 3 from beginning of row.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *1 fpdc around next dc, 1 bpdc around next dc; rep from * to end of row, dc in top of tch; turn.

Rows 3-4: Rep Row 2.

Fasten off leaving a 20” tail to sew sleeve seams. Repeat ribbing on second sleeve.

Bottom Ribbing

Right-handed crocheters, attach yarn at bottom corner of Left Front. Left-handed crocheters, attach yarn at bottom corner of Right Front. Begin ribbing with RS facing.

Row 1: Ch 3, dc across to opposite Front corner, using frequency of stitches described in notes above. Add one dc in the final tile if necessary to create an even number of total dc, including ch 3 from beginning of row.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *1 fpdc around next dc, 1 bpdc around next dc; rep from * to end of row, dc in top of tch; turn.

Row 3 (RS): Rep Row 2.

Row 4 (WS): Rep Row 2, but do not turn.

Do not fasten off. Move on to collar ribbing.

Collar Ribbing:

With yarn still attached from bottom ribbing, Row 1 of collar ribbing is worked again with RS of kimono facing out. Ribbing is crocheted up front edge of garment, around back of neck and down opposite front edge.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, 1 dc in first vertical row of bottom ribbing, 2 dc in each of next 3 vertical rows of bottom ribbing; dc around to beginning of bottom ribbing on opposite Front corner using frequency of stitches described in notes above. Add one dc in the final tile if necessary to create an even number of total dc, including ch 3 from beginning of row.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *1 fpdc around next dc, 1 bpdc around next dc; rep from * to end of row, dc in top of tch; turn.

Rows 3-4: Rep Row 2.

Fasten off.

Pocket Ribbing

Row 1: Ch 3, dc across one side of pocket square using the frequency of stitches described in the notes above. Add one dc in the final tile if necessary to create an even number of total dc, including ch 3 from beginning of row.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *1 fpdc around next dc, 1 bpdc around next dc; rep from * to end of row, dc in top of tch; turn.

Rows 3-4: Rep Row 2.

Fasten off leaving 36” tail. Repeat for second pocket.

FINISHING

Sleeve Seam

With WS of garment facing out, use tail from sleeve ribbing and a tapestry needle to mattress stitch underarm seam. Repeat on second sleeve.

Pockets

With RS of garment facing, pin pockets to Fronts as pictured in photo below. Note that RS of ribbing should be facing out once folded over and pinned on.

Using tail from pocket ribbing and tapestry needle, whip stitch pocket to Front. Repeat with second pocket.

I love to see your finished projects! Use #MakeAndDoCrew and tag me Instagram (@MakeAndDoCrew) to show off your stitches and have a chance to be featured.

More Free Crochet Cardigan Patterns + Tutorials

Here are more free crochet cardigan patterns from Make & Do Crew you might enjoy. Find all my sweater patterns here.

1. Day Date Cardigan – simple crochet sweater made from two hexagons + video tutorial

2. Habitat Cardigan – easy pattern made from a rectangle + video tutorial

3. Alchemy Cardigan – lightweight sweater with very detailed video tutorials

4. Remix Cardigan – easy pattern made from deconstructed yarn cakes + video tutorial

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31 Comments

  • Dorian Cross
    July 1, 2018 at 8:29 am

    Wow!! Jess your designs always amaze me. I cannot wait to try this pattern. I have never done C2C before but I will def be learning it now for this pattern lol. Every time I wear your Navaho Shrug I get a ton of compliments, I’m sure this will be another winner! Thanks for sharing your amazing talents with us 🙂

    Reply
    • Jess @ Make and Do Crew
      July 1, 2018 at 3:30 pm

      Thank you, Dorian! I’m so happy to hear that about the Navajo Shrug. This one has a similar sort of “back flair,” lol, but I think this one is actually easier! I hope you enjoy making (and wearing!) it. 🙂

      Jess

      Reply
  • Rose
    July 1, 2018 at 9:50 am

    WOW! What a superb, stylish design. I knew I needed to learn c2c, thank you for the tutorials and resources you’ve put together to facilitate the learning process.

    Reply
    • Jess @ Make and Do Crew
      July 1, 2018 at 3:29 pm

      Hey Rose!

      So nice to hear from you. I love c2c! I was really intimidated at first, but once you work a few rows, it’s really pretty intuitive. 🙂

      Jess

      Reply
  • Kate
    July 1, 2018 at 1:00 pm

    This is lovely.

    Reply
  • Grace
    July 1, 2018 at 3:41 pm

    I can’t wait to make this!!! I’ve been thinking about making a corner to corner cardigan but I just haven’t gotten around to it! Definitely trying this soon!

    Reply
  • Lindsay Robbins
    July 1, 2018 at 4:12 pm

    I’m so excited to make this!! Your patterns are amazing & they keep getting better!!

    Reply
  • Rara Rusli
    July 1, 2018 at 9:37 pm

    Hi Jess..
    It so preety and I want to make one.
    The problem is, I cant find those yarn in my local crft shop.
    Can you suggest another yarn that match with yours?

    Regards
    Rara

    Reply
    • Jess @ Make and Do Crew
      July 3, 2018 at 11:12 am

      Hey Rara,

      Joann’s is carrying this yarn now, I think. Do you happen to leave near one of those? If not, I’d check out YarnSub.com to find a similar yarn that’s available to you. 🙂

      Jess

      Reply
      • Rara Rusli
        July 5, 2018 at 5:51 pm

        Hi Jess,
        I’m afraid not. I’m sorry, I didn’t mention to you before. I live in Asia. There’s not much imported yarn choices. Maybe another Lion Brand type?
        Or ones from Caron or Bernat?

        Thanks

        Reply
        • Holly
          August 1, 2018 at 11:56 pm

          Im having the same issue finding a substitute. Jeans by Lion Brand seems to be a close match.

          Reply
          • Jess @ Make and Do Crew
            August 4, 2018 at 2:28 pm

            Yeah, I think Jeans could be a good match, although I haven’t compared the gauge exactly. I’d make a gauge swatch and measure it against the gauge listed in the pattern. Yarnsub.com might also be useful. 🙂

            Jess

  • Mary
    July 2, 2018 at 8:39 am

    Jess, can the sleeve be made into a long sleeve rather than short? If so, can you share how it would be done?

    Reply
  • monika
    July 2, 2018 at 1:48 pm

    love this pattern but quick question: if i just wanted a solid color cardigan, can i do one big rectangle instead of 2 for the back part?

    Reply
    • Jess @ Make and Do Crew
      July 3, 2018 at 11:10 am

      Yes! You totally could. Just make it twice the number of tiles wide as the pattern graphs. 🙂

      Reply
  • Mary Lenzen
    July 3, 2018 at 5:36 am

    Love this pattern. I have a question. Can it be made with long sleeves?

    Reply
    • Jess @ Make and Do Crew
      July 3, 2018 at 11:11 am

      Hey Mary,

      Yes, I think it could be. As written, the sleeves don’t contain any shaping, so you’d end up with a cuff that’s as wide as the current sleeve. If you look at the pattern, it indicates to stop increasing c2c tiles on the sleeve once the sleeve is 6-7 tiles tall, but if you want longer sleeves, I’d just work enough tiles so that the sleeve reaches your wrist. It’s basically a long c2c rectangle that’s attached to the shoulder.

      Hope that helps!

      Jess

      Reply
  • Phyllis
    July 4, 2018 at 7:41 pm

    Hey Jess, One question, On the charts or graphs, why are the stripes at opposite ends of the opposite sections, even though the numbers for the stitches both start at the lower end of both sides but on the right the stripes are at the top of the chart. Is my question making sense? How does this make it come out correct? In the heat we have been experiencing here for Mich.+humidity to the extreme, it is easy to be confused. I am slowly working on my Alchemy cardigan. Thank you so much for your patterns. I love everything I have made so far. Have been crocheting pretty steady since Nov. so far so good, Trying to keep cool. Take care and Thanks again. Phyllis

    Reply
    • Jess @ Make and Do Crew
      July 7, 2018 at 2:20 pm

      Hey Phyllis,

      That is so that the “horizontal” tiles in one side line up with a “vertical” tile in the other side so as to maintain a typical c2c pattern. Does that make sense?

      Jess

      Reply
  • Phyllis
    July 8, 2018 at 9:04 pm

    I am still confused, unless the right back section is flipped to bring the arrow tiles down, therefore the wrong side will be up and the right side will be up on the left back. But When I start to do the panels I will be starting at the number 1 tile on the graft? I mean where the numbers start at the bottom of the section? Maybe when I start it I will figure it out. Thanks for the info. I love this pattern. Have a great evening. Phyllis

    Reply
  • Ruth Elia
    August 1, 2018 at 8:42 am

    Jess the pattern says free.I cant seem to find the pattern? or do I have too purches it?

    Reply
    • Jess @ Make and Do Crew
      August 4, 2018 at 2:30 pm

      Hey Ruth,

      The free graph pattern is linked in the “supplies” section of the pattern above. Then the instructions are below it for the seaming together, ribbing, etc. 🙂

      Jess

      Reply
  • Sarah Sharp
    August 3, 2018 at 7:21 am

    Hi. I’ve been searching for that perfect sweater. I love this but when I made the first back panel in small it measured 14 in across. Which i new would be way to big in back. Do you have an estimate of what it should be. Thinking of sizing down my needle. I used 6mm and caron big cakes. thanks

    Reply
    • Jess @ Make and Do Crew
      August 4, 2018 at 2:26 pm

      Hey Sarah,

      Is Caron Big Cakes worsted weight? Which size are you making? Without knowing the size you’re making, my most efficient suggestion would be to look at the graph and see how many tiles across there are for your size. Then multiply that by .69″ (this number is in the gauge section of the pattern). That measurement is what you should expect the rectangle width to be for your size.

      This sweater is quite oversized and intended to hang off your shoulders a bit, so you may not be too far off. Checking your gauge though is a great place to start deciding which hook size to use. 🙂

      Happy crocheting!

      Jess

      Reply
  • Rachel Scott
    August 3, 2018 at 2:18 pm

    Hi Jess, I’m really wanting to have a go at this pattern, but I’m struggling to find wool. I’m in Scotland so we don’t have the same brands. My yarn convertor says 4/medium is Aran weight, but my gauge comes out way too big. Ive tried with double knitting and it’s about right, so I guess I’ll use that. I don’t want it to come out too ‘solid’ so I’m on the hunt for something that will be nice and drapey. The yarn substitute thingy recommends double crepe, so I’ll have to see what I can find in that. Fingers crossed.

    Reply
  • beverly
    September 13, 2018 at 11:04 am

    Hi I have a perhaps dumb question… but it has me stuck so I will ask it…. I am doing the kinomo sweater… my question is… will the rectangles (4) for size 3x all be the same length before you add borders and after they are added? The number of tiles in the count for middle and sides are different , so I have different lengths now. thanks

    Reply
  • angela
    October 31, 2018 at 10:33 pm

    I really wish you’d do a video for attaching and making the sleeves. i am working on my 3rd sweater from this pattern and i have to use the sleeve pattern from one of your other sweaters because i can’t understand how to do the sleeves.

    Reply
  • Jessica Sharpe
    December 10, 2018 at 2:27 pm

    I am confused on the sleeves. When do I decrease to make a rectangle?

    Reply
  • Kate
    October 5, 2019 at 8:04 am

    I just finished this and I think the pattern is ingenious. I have never tried c2c before, but I watched your videos and was able to catch on fairly quickly. Now I’m such a fan! Thank you for making it so easy and fun to pick up a new skill. Now my only dilemma is whether to keep this gorgeous cardigan or give it away as a gift.

    Reply

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