A few basic rectangles come together to form a gorgeously drapy, on-trend sweater in this simple corner to corner crochet kimono pattern. Get the free pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with written line-by-line C2C instructions here.
This free c2c crochet short sleeved cardigan pattern is part of a collaboration with my friends at LionBrand.com. This post contains affiliate links.
I’m so excited to share this corner to corner crochet kimono pattern with you for two reasons. First, my mom and I designed it together and the finished product actually turned out better than I had hoped. How often does that happen? Unfortunately, not very often around here. Secondly, I hope this short sleeved cardigan gives a glimpse into what is possible with C2C crochet. (Hint: It’s not just for blankets!)
How to Corner To Corner Crochet
If this is your first time using a c2c crochet pattern, be sure to take a look at the photo and video tutorials below to learn the basics. These tutorials cover how to crochet the diagonal box stitch, which is what is used in corner to corner crochet as well as how to change colors in c2c crochet and some tips for managing your yarn.
VIDEO TUTORIAL: How to Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle
PHOTO TUTORIAL: How to Change Colors in C2C
PHOTO TUTORIAL: Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle
If you like how this pattern uses the diagonal nature of C2C, you’ll love this easy corner-to-corner blanket pattern too.
More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns
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A Beginner C2C Crochet Pattern
Believe it or not, this crochet kimono pattern is actually deceptively easy because the stripes are created using the natural bias that forms with C2C. There aren’t a ton of colors to wrangle or ends to weave in, which means this cardigan works up quickly with minimal fuss. This is not one to be intimidated by!
You’ll crochet four C2C rectangles, sew them together and then add sleeves and ribbing directly to the kimono (with no additional seaming!)
The rectangles can be worked directly from the free graph patterns linked below or, if you prefer written C2C instructions, you can grab line-by-line instructions for the graphs in the ad-free printable PDF. If you’ve never read a corner to corner crochet graph pattern before, check out this tutorial.
RELATED: Don’t leave your pup out of the handmade cardigan fun! Crochet a dog sweater for small, medium and large pups
A Yarn All Crocheters Must Try!
I cannot wait to tell you about this new yarn! Honestly, sometimes I find myself thinking “What can be done in yarn “innovation” really? I mean, isn’t an acrylic an acrylic an acrylic?”
Well, Lion Brand has really shut down my ponderings with their new ZZ Twist yarn, which is shockingly 100% acrylic, yet you’d never be able to tell from touching it. In fact, I was at a party recently and a knitter (who–let’s be frank–are sometimes a bit more snobby about yarn than crocheters) asked it if was silk! It’s that soft and floppy.
In addition to being extremely smooth and drapey, this yarn is wound in the opposite direction most yarn is, which apparently makes it even easier for specifically crocheters to use. I know, weird, huh? I never thought that made a difference, but this yarn is truly a dream to work with and somehow is also really affordable. You can shop all the gorgeous, saturated colors here.
UPDATE: Lion Brand has turned the Free Range Kimono into a crochet kit! You’ll receive all the yarn you need to make your own, plus a printed copy of the pattern. Grab your kit here!
Free Range Corner To Corner Crochet Kimono
Free Pattern
Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with graphs + line-by-line C2C instructions HERE.
Save this pattern to your Ravelry favorites or queue HERE.
Pin it for later HERE.
Explanation:
Corner-to-corner crochet isn’t just for blankets! In this pattern, the easy and speedy diagonal box stitch (C2C) and flatteringly soft and drapy yarn come together for a garment that’s surprisingly simple to make. You’ll take advantage of C2C crochet’s diagonal nature to almost effortlessly add visual interest to the back of the kimono, while keeping the pocketed front clean and on-trend. Pair it with a swimsuit, leggings or jeans for a comfortable, relaxed kimono that can transition from season-to-season.
If you’ve never tried corner-to-corner crochet before, there are several free video and photo tutorials listed below. This is a relatively easy first C2C pattern to try.
Supplies:
This pattern contains affiliate links at no extra cost to you.
Purchase a kit with all the yarn + a printed copy of the pattern here.
• Lion Brand ZZ Twist (Weight: 4/medium – 246 yds, 3.5 oz)
– Main Color: Taupe (#763-122) – 8 (10, 10) skeins
– Accent Color: Ecru (#763-098) – 1(1,1) skeins
• Graph patterns for C2C rectangles (print here) Optional: written line-by-line graph instructions in the ad-free PDF
• Tapestry needle
• Size J (5.75 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins
Sizes:
Size: S/M, (L/XL, 2X/3X)
Length of finished garment: 27.5” (28.25”, 28.25”)
Fits Bust: 32-38”, (40-46”, 48-54”)
Fit is intended to be oversized. Size down for more fitted look.
Model is 5’9” with a 36” bust and is wearing a S/M.
Gauge:
2.75” = 4 tiles
Each tile = approximately .69”
Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
bpdc – back post double crochet
ch – chain
dc – double crochet
fpdc – front post double crochet
PM – place marker
rep – repeat
RS – right side
sp – space
st(s) – stitch(es)
sl st – slip stitch
tch – turning chain
tile – one c2c box in a graph (6 total chains + 3 double crochet)
WS – wrong side
Additional Corner-to-Corner Crochet Resources:
• Help with learning corner-to-corner-crochet basics can be found here:
VIDEO TUTORIAL: How to Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle
PHOTO TUTORIAL: How to Change Colors in C2C
PHOTO TUTORIAL: Increase and Decrease to Create a Rectangle
Overall Pattern + Sizing Notes:
• All c2c graphs are worked using a double crochet stitch.
• Pattern is written for smallest size with larger sizes following in parenthesis. S/M, (L/XL, 2X/3X). When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
• Before beginning, make a c2c square with 6 tiles on each side. Measure four middle tiles in each direction and average the result to check gauge. This is very important in ensuring garment fit.
• As in any c2c rectangle or square, all rows in pattern begin with either increasing or decreasing. This pattern refers to “increasing” as adding one tile per row. The first half of any square or rectangle involves increasing at the beginning of each row. Once you have finished longest row in graph, each row will begin by “decreasing.” A decrease row eliminates one tile from each row, thereby creating a flat edge on the side of the decrease.
Main Kimono Pieces
Using a double crochet c2c stitch, follow graphs to create one Left Back, one Right Back and two Fronts in appropriate size. If desired, written, line-by-line C2C graph instructions for each size can be found in the PDF.
Joining Kimono Pieces
Notes:
• All vertical seams are worked from bottom of the kimono upward.
Lay Left Back and Right Back down so that they are forming an arrow as in photo below. Using a tapestry and single strand of main color yarn, use mattress stitch to join both pieces along center back. Add an additional tapestry needle and strand of accent color yarn when first accent color tiles are reached. Use appropriate color yarn to seam each section of back tiles.
The side facing you is now the WS. Continuing with WS facing up and mattress stitch, seam a Front piece to each the Left Back and Right Back. On each side, fasten off after 25 tiles have been seamed so that 15 (16, 17) tiles remain for the armhole. With both WS facing out, seam shoulders in same fashion, beginning at outer shoulder and working toward neck.
Pockets
Using main color, make 2 corner-to-corner squares that measure 11×11 tiles. To reduce number of ends to weave in, simply keep yarn attached at end of making pocket and either set aside or move directly onto the “Pocket Ribbing” section.
Sleeves
Notes:
• Sleeve is added by seamlessly adding an additional C2C rectangle to the armhole of the garment and then seaming. If this part causes confusion, please see the detailed photo tutorial in ad-free PDF for step-by-step instructions (right and left-handed tutorial included). Additionally, you can watch a video tutorial of the technique here.
Attach main color yarn near armhole at side seam. See photo below for specific instructions on placement.
Row 1: Ch 6, dc in fourth ch from hook, dc in each of next 2 ch, sl st between first and second tiles along armhole (tile made). (1 tile)
Row 2: Ch 3, sl st between second and third tiles, turn, ch 3, 3 dc in ch3sp (tile made), finish row by working 1 additional c2c tile; turn. (2 tiles)
Row 3: Work a typical increase row of c2c tiles; at end of row: sl st in next sp between tiles along armhole edge.
Row 4: Ch 3, sl st in next sp between tiles along armhole edge, turn, ch 3, 3 dc in ch3sp (tile made), finish row by working additional c2c tiles to end of row; turn.
Rep Rows 3 and 4 until additional rectangle is 6 (6,7) tiles high. This is the corner, so decrease tiles will now be worked for all rows that begin at the end of sleeve. This is exactly like working the rectangles for back and front pieces, but bottom edge is of sleeve rectangle is just attached to the garment.
Continue working in pattern until c2c tiles encircle the armhole and you’re back at Row 1. The last tile will now form the second underarm sleeve edge.
Work additional rows of c2c tiles, beginning with a decrease stitch for all rows now, until rectangle is complete. Do not fasten off. Move on to sleeve ribbing below.
Ribbing
Notes:
• Ribbing is worked the same for the bottom, front/collar, sleeves and pockets.
• If you’ve never done post stitch ribbing before, you may want to check out this video tutorial. While it’s for a different cardigan, the technique of working post stitches is the same. (See the 14:00 mark to learn about ribbing.)
• Ch 3 always counts as a dc.
• When working Row 1 of ribbing, place stitches at the following intervals:
• 3 dc in each vertical tile. (This will look like the short side of a c2c tile and stitches will be worked into 3 dc of C2C tile.)
• 2 dc in each horizontal tile. (This will look like the long side of a c2c tile and stitches will be worked under ch 3 of tile.)
Sleeve Ribbing
Begin with RS of sleeve facing out. Right-handed crocheters, attach yarn in right corner. Left-handed crocheters, attach yarn in left corner.
Row 1: Ch 3, dc across to opposite Sleeve corner, using the frequency of stitches described in the notes above. Add one dc in the final tile if necessary to create an even number of total dc, including ch 3 from beginning of row.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *1 fpdc around next dc, 1 bpdc around next dc; rep from * to end of row, dc in top of tch; turn.
Rows 3-4: Rep Row 2.
Fasten off leaving a 20” tail to sew sleeve seams. Repeat ribbing on second sleeve.
Bottom Ribbing
Right-handed crocheters, attach yarn at bottom corner of Left Front. Left-handed crocheters, attach yarn at bottom corner of Right Front. Begin ribbing with RS facing.
Row 1: Ch 3, dc across to opposite Front corner, using frequency of stitches described in notes above. Add one dc in the final tile if necessary to create an even number of total dc, including ch 3 from beginning of row.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *1 fpdc around next dc, 1 bpdc around next dc; rep from * to end of row, dc in top of tch; turn.
Row 3 (RS): Rep Row 2.
Row 4 (WS): Rep Row 2, but do not turn.
Do not fasten off. Move on to collar ribbing.
Collar Ribbing:
With yarn still attached from bottom ribbing, Row 1 of collar ribbing is worked again with RS of kimono facing out. Ribbing is crocheted up front edge of garment, around back of neck and down opposite front edge.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 3, 1 dc in first vertical row of bottom ribbing, 2 dc in each of next 3 vertical rows of bottom ribbing; dc around to beginning of bottom ribbing on opposite Front corner using frequency of stitches described in notes above. Add one dc in the final tile if necessary to create an even number of total dc, including ch 3 from beginning of row.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *1 fpdc around next dc, 1 bpdc around next dc; rep from * to end of row, dc in top of tch; turn.
Rows 3-4: Rep Row 2.
Fasten off.
Pocket Ribbing
Row 1: Ch 3, dc across one side of pocket square using the frequency of stitches described in the notes above. Add one dc in the final tile if necessary to create an even number of total dc, including ch 3 from beginning of row.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 3, sk first dc, *1 fpdc around next dc, 1 bpdc around next dc; rep from * to end of row, dc in top of tch; turn.
Rows 3-4: Rep Row 2.
Fasten off leaving 36” tail. Repeat for second pocket.
Finishing
Sleeve Seam
With WS of garment facing out, use tail from sleeve ribbing and a tapestry needle to mattress stitch underarm seam. Repeat on second sleeve.
Pockets
With RS of garment facing, pin pockets to Fronts as pictured in photo below. Note that RS of ribbing should be facing out once folded over and pinned on.
Using tail from pocket ribbing and tapestry needle, whip stitch pocket to Front. Repeat with second pocket.
That was so fun! Now what?
Invitation to our Facebook group
Come discuss crocheting c2c sweater cardigan patterns and lots of other crochet projects and techniques in our Make & Do Crew Facebook group. Here thousands of helpful crocheters answer each others questions and share their stitches. Come join us here.
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Sue says
ZZ Twist yarn has been discountinued. What other yarn would work for this pattern?
Kate says
I just finished this and I think the pattern is ingenious. I have never tried c2c before, but I watched your videos and was able to catch on fairly quickly. Now I’m such a fan! Thank you for making it so easy and fun to pick up a new skill. Now my only dilemma is whether to keep this gorgeous cardigan or give it away as a gift.
Jessica Sharpe says
I am confused on the sleeves. When do I decrease to make a rectangle?
angela says
I really wish you’d do a video for attaching and making the sleeves. i am working on my 3rd sweater from this pattern and i have to use the sleeve pattern from one of your other sweaters because i can’t understand how to do the sleeves.
beverly says
Hi I have a perhaps dumb question… but it has me stuck so I will ask it…. I am doing the kinomo sweater… my question is… will the rectangles (4) for size 3x all be the same length before you add borders and after they are added? The number of tiles in the count for middle and sides are different , so I have different lengths now. thanks
Rachel Scott says
Hi Jess, I’m really wanting to have a go at this pattern, but I’m struggling to find wool. I’m in Scotland so we don’t have the same brands. My yarn convertor says 4/medium is Aran weight, but my gauge comes out way too big. Ive tried with double knitting and it’s about right, so I guess I’ll use that. I don’t want it to come out too ‘solid’ so I’m on the hunt for something that will be nice and drapey. The yarn substitute thingy recommends double crepe, so I’ll have to see what I can find in that. Fingers crossed.
Sarah Sharp says
Hi. I’ve been searching for that perfect sweater. I love this but when I made the first back panel in small it measured 14 in across. Which i new would be way to big in back. Do you have an estimate of what it should be. Thinking of sizing down my needle. I used 6mm and caron big cakes. thanks
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Sarah,
Is Caron Big Cakes worsted weight? Which size are you making? Without knowing the size you’re making, my most efficient suggestion would be to look at the graph and see how many tiles across there are for your size. Then multiply that by .69″ (this number is in the gauge section of the pattern). That measurement is what you should expect the rectangle width to be for your size.
This sweater is quite oversized and intended to hang off your shoulders a bit, so you may not be too far off. Checking your gauge though is a great place to start deciding which hook size to use. 🙂
Happy crocheting!
Jess