Creatively constructed from a simple rectangle, this flattering chunky crochet cocoon cardigan comes together easily with zero shaping, increasing or decreasing. Get the free pattern and video tutorial below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with stitch chart here.
This free chunky crochet cocoon sweater pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.
Cozy Crochet Blanket Sweater
This year, I’ve challenged myself to move out of my comfort zone of crochet shoes, afghans and scarves to design more sweaters and other garments.
There’s something particularly satisfying about making my own clothes and I often wear the sweater I’ve just created as I’m writing up the pattern, sort of like it’s my trophy at the end of a hard-fought battle.
The Construction of This Cocoon Cardigan
After experimenting with a few different variations of a basic folded-rectangle shrug, I knew I wanted to create a chunky crochet sweater that used the same simple-to-master concepts (ie. no increasing or decreasing!) that would be worthy of wearing all fall and winter long. I think the Dwell Sweater is it!
The Impressive (Yet Easy!) Stitch
This speedy, chunky crochet sweater pattern uses the Zeros and Crosses stitch, which I’ve had my eye on for a while now. It’s worked a little differently than other stitches because you cross two double crochet stitches to make and “X,” but I felt really proud of mastering a new little crochet technique. I cover how to work this stitch in detail in the Dwell Sweater video tutorial.
New to making cardigans? Don’t miss How to Crochet a Sweater for our best beginner tips
My Favorite Chunky Yarn
Wanna know how to crochet a sweater fast and love the finished result? Grab any color of Lion Brand Hue + Me yarn and get to work! This category 5 yarn is just chunky enough to ensure RAPID sweater progress, but the open stitch work keeps your sweater from being too hot or bulky. And Hue + Me is available in the most gorgeous, contemporary colors. Two of Wands and Lion Brand collaborated on this yarn and it’s one of my all time favorites!
Related: 27+ Free Crochet Beanie Patterns
Get an All-In-One Crochet Kit
If you don’t live near amazing yarn stores or if you just like to get fun packages in the mail, the all-in-one crochet kit is a perfect way to make your Dwell Sweater. This bundle from Lion Brand includes all the Hue + Me yarn you’ll need, plus a free printable PDF of the pattern (delivered digitally).
I especially love this option for the Dwell Sweater because Hue + Me is available in the BEST colors and they’re all available at LionBrand.com.
Deliver it! Click to purchase the an all-in-one crochet kit ⇨
Pin it! Click to pin this pattern for later ⇨
How to Crochet a Cocoon Sweater Video Tutorial
If you’ve had a bit of experience reading patterns and want to challenge yourself to make your first garment, this chunky crochet sweater is a great one to try. Even better, I’ve put together a video tutorial that walks you through how to crochet this cocoon cardigan pattern start to finish.
How Do I Print This Cocoon Crochet Pattern?
We know many people like to work from a paper copy of their crochet pattern. This is why we love offering our patterns in large-type, ad-free PDFs that are formatted for easy printing.
We are so grateful to those of you who support our small business by upgrading to the premium printable versions of our patterns, so we add extra bonuses to our PDFs whenever we have something helpful to share. In the case of the Dwell cocoon cardigan PDF, the we created a bonus stitch chart exclusively for the printable pattern.
Offering paid PDF patterns helps us continue to keep designing and we hope they give you comfortable way to crochet!
The printable PDF includes the complete pattern, all the photo tutorials and the helpful stitch chart.
Print it! Purchase the ad-free PDF ⇨
More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns
Crochet sweater patterns don’t need to be difficult. In fact, most of ours are made with very simple shapes. Dive into the wonderful world of crochet garments with cardigans, pullovers, ponchos, shrugs and more!
See more free crochet sweater patterns →
The Dwell Chunky Sweater
• Free Crochet Cocoon Cardigan Pattern •
Find the step-by-step video tutorial here.
Explanation: If you love the concepts of slow fashion, slow weekends at home and fast crochet projects, this chunky cardigan is just the project for you! Creatively constructed from a simple rectangle, this flattering sweater comes together easily with zero shaping, increasing or decreasing. Once you have the basic repeat memorized, you’ll whiz through this pattern and have fun watching your new sweater take form right before your eyes.
Skills needed include double crochet and post stitches, although if you haven’t tried post stitches before, this is a “safe” project to give them a go as their use within is quite basic.
Supplies:
Purchase an all-in-one kit from Lion Brand here.
• Lion Brand Wool-Ease Tonal (Weight: 5/ bulky – 124 yds, 4 oz)
–Smoke (149) – 7 (9, 10) skeins
• Tapestry needle
• Size N (10 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins
Sizes:
The oversized nature of this sweater will accommodate many body types. The sample pictured is a S/M on a model with a 36” bust.
Bust Size // Length of Sweater from collar to bottom edge
S/M: 34-38.5” // 30.5”
L/XL: 39-44.5” // 33”
2XL/3XL: 45-50” // 35.5”
Gauge:
10 stitches = 5”
2 repeats in the stitch pattern (6 total rows) = 5”
Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
tch – turning chain
st – stitch
sp – space
sk – skip
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
rep – repeat
ch1sp – the space created by one chain
fpdc – front post double crochet: work 1 dc around stem of st 2 rounds below, inserting hook around stem from right to left to draw up loops. (Left to right for left-handed crocheters)
Overall Pattern Notes:
• Pattern is written in size S/M with L/XL and 2XL/3XL written in parenthesis. S/M (L/XL, 2XL/3XL). Sample shown is a size S/M. Because of the oversized style of the sweater, choosing a size is less about exact chest size and more about how loose you want your sweater to fit.
• A detailed video tutorial on how to crochet the Dwell Sweater can be found here. (Be sure to have any ad-blockers disabled in order to view the video player.)
!! Gauge Check !!
Please don’t skip this step or you will risk your sweater not fitting as expected. Once gauge is correctly met, you may repurpose gauge swatch as one of your pockets. Win win!
Foundation Row: Ch 18.
Row 1 (RS): 1 sc into second ch, 1 sc into next and each ch to end; turn. (17)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and a ch1sp), sk 2 sts, 1 dc into next st, *1 ch, sk 1 st, 1 dc into next st; rep from * ending last rep in last sc; turn.
Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, sk next ch1sp work 2 crossed stitches as follows: 1 dc forward into next ch1sp, 1 dc back into just skipped ch1sp going behind forward dc so as not to catch it, *1 dc forward into next unoccupied ch1sp, 1 dc into back into previous ch1sp; rep from * to end when last forward dc occupies first tch, 1 dc into second tch; turn.
Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working last sc into top of tch; turn.
Rep Rows 2-4 once more.
Row 5 (WS): Rep Row 2.
Row 6 (RS-final pocket row): Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working sc into top of tch; do not turn; continue around corner working 2 additional sc in same tch, continue evenly spacing sc along top edge of pocket, stop when corner is reached. (Chain tail should be at the same corner.)
Fasten off, leaving a 24” tail.
Pocket swatch should measure 8” wide x 7” tall. (Note: Measure width across row and height from foundation row to last row even though pocket will be rotated before attaching to sweater.)
- If swatch is too narrow horizontally, increase your hook size and re-swatch.
- If swatch is too wide horizontally, decrease your hook size and re-swatch.
- If swatch is measuring too small vertically, make a deliberate effort to pull loops up a bit higher before completing each stitch.
- If swatch is measuring too large vertically, make an effort to work the loops of each stitch a little tighter.
- This video is incredibly helpful if you’re having trouble achieving the correct vertical gauge.
Body of Sweater
Notes:
• If you’re a visual learner, consider purchasing the printable PDF of this pattern which contains a stitch chart.
• The end of Row 4 might seem off to you, but know that the tch from the previous row is considered a stitch in this case, so the last dc of the row will be worked into that tch.
• To adjust the width of the sweater, chain a multiple of 2 sts + 4.
• Finished dimensions of rectangle should be approx.: 27 (30, 33)” tall by 44 (49.5, 54)” wide
Foundation Row: Ch 98 (110, 122).
Row 1: 1 dc in the sixth ch from the hook (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch1sp), *ch 1, sk 1 ch, 1 dc in next ch; rep from * to end; turn. 95 (107, 119)
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Row 2: Ch 3, sk next ch1sp work 2 crossed stitches as follows: 1 dc forward into next ch1sp, 1 dc back into just skipped ch1sp going behind forward dc so as not to catch it, *1 dc forward into next unoccupied ch1sp, 1 dc into back into previous ch1sp; rep from * to end when last forward dc occupies first tch, 1 dc into second tch; turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working last sc into top of tch; turn.
Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and a ch1sp), sk 2 sts, 1 dc into next st, *1 ch, sk 1 st, 1 dc into next st; rep from * ending last rep in tch; turn. (See note above.)
Repeat Rows 2-4 ten (eleven, twelve) more times. At this point, you should have 12 (13, 14) rows of little ch1sp “windows” (Rows 1 and 4).
Seaming Rectangle
Notes:
• There is no right side (RS) or wrong side of this fabric, so just choose the one you like best to face out.
Fold rectangle in half with RS facing in so that the foundation row and the final row of the rectangle are touching. (Stripes should be running horizontally as in photo below.) Pin in place along side seams using stitch markers or safety pins. Take care to line up stripes.
Place a stitch marker 5 (5, 6) inches from the folded side on either side of the rectangle. Using a tapestry needle and a doubled over strand of MC yarn, begin seaming the rectangle, working from the open side to the folded side. Stop at the stitch marker. Repeat for second seam.
Turn your new shrug-lette right side out and lay it flat as pictured in photo below. Place a stitch marker in the double crochet stitch that falls at the intersection of the bottom of the shrug and the perpendicular collar edge. Repeat on second side.
More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns From Make & Do Crew:
Adding Collar
Notes:
• Collar is worked along the edge of the shrug back and forth in rows starting at the bottom-most front edge of the sweater, working around the back of the neck and returning to the bottom-most front edge on the other side. (See photo below.)
• The marked double crochet stitches will become where you work the first and last stitches of Row 1. All subsequent rows will be worked between these stitch markers.
Right-Handed Crocheters: Attach yarn in left stitch marker, as seen when looking at the sweater laying flat.
Left-Handed Crocheters: Attach yarn in right stitch marker, as seen when looking at the sweater laying flat.
Row 1: Ch 3, sk next ch1sp work 2 crossed stitches as follows: 1 dc forward into next ch1sp, 1 dc back into just skipped ch1sp going behind forward dc so as not to catch it, *1 dc forward into next unoccupied ch1sp, 1 dc into back into previous ch1sp; rep from * to end when last forward dc occupies the ch1sp before the marked stitch, 1 dc into marked dc; turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working last sc into top of tch; turn.
Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and a ch1sp), sk 2 sts, 1 dc into next st, *1 ch, sk 1 st, 1 dc into next st; rep from * ending last rep in tch; turn.
Repeat Rows 1-3 two more times.
Row 4: Repeat Row 1.
Round 5: Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working 2 sc into top of tch; do not turn; continue around bottom edge of sweater evenly spacing sc sts all the way to bottom corner where round began; sl st to first sc of round to join.
Fasten off.
Adding Sleeves
Notes:
• Sleeve ribbing is achieved using post stitches. Please reference glossary of the pattern, the video tutorial or photo below for additional help.
• The sleeves are worked in the round. Do not turn work at the end of each round.
Attach yarn in armhole at seam created from sewing the rectangle together. Be sure to work with the RS (outside) of the sweater facing you at all times.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 22 (22, 26) sc sts around armhole edge, sl st to first sc of round to join.
Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc, sl st to first sc of round to join.
Round 3: Ch 1, *1 sc in next sc, 1 fpdc around next sc two rows below; rep from * to end of round, sl st to first sc of round to join.
Round 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc, sl st to first sc of round to join.
Round 5: Ch 1, *1 sc in next sc, 1 fpdc around stem of next fpdc two rows below; rep from * to end of round, sl st to first sc of round to join.
Repeat Rounds 4 and 5 seven times. Add additional repeats if longer sleeves are desired. Fasten off.
Adding Pockets
Make 2. (Remember, you can use your gauge swatch as a pocket if you’d like.)
Foundation Row: Ch 18.
Row 1 (RS): 1 sc into second ch, 1 sc into next and each ch to end; turn. (17)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and a ch1sp), sk 2 sts, 1 dc into next st, *1 ch, sk 1 st, 1 dc into next st; rep from * ending last rep in last sc; turn.
Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, sk next ch1sp work 2 crossed stitches as follows: 1 dc forward into next ch1sp, 1 dc back into just skipped ch1sp going behind forward dc so as not to catch it, *1 dc forward into next unoccupied ch1sp, 1 dc into back into previous ch1sp; rep from * to end when last forward dc occupies first tch, 1 dc into second tch; turn.
Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working last sc into top of tch; turn.
Rep Rows 2-4 once more.
Row 5 (WS): Rep Row 2.
Row 6 (RS): Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working sc into top of tch; do not turn; continue around corner working 2 additional sc in same tch, continue evenly spacing sc along top edge of pocket, stop when corner is reached (chain tail should be at the same corner).
Fasten off, leaving a 24” tail.
Pin pockets to front of sweater using stitch markers or safety pins. See photo above for exact placement or to customize to your liking. Take care to line up rows on pockets and sweater so that the pockets visually recede into the sweater.
Use leftover tail and a tapestry needle to sew pockets onto sweater using a whip stitch.
Weave in any remaining ends.
Wrap yourself in your new chunky Dwell Sweater, brew a cup of tea and embrace your inner home-dwelling homebody!
We love to see your finished projects! Use #MakeAndDoCrew and tag us on Instagram (@MakeAndDoCrew) to show off your stitches and have a chance to be featured.
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Mitzi says
Oh I just love mine. Thank you for the pattern ?
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Yay! I love hearing that, Mitzi! (And I love your name! We always read the “Tell Me Mitzi” books as a kid. 🙂 )
Eve LaF says
When you have the finished dimensions of the rectangle being for a small 27×44 is that the dimensions before the collar is started?
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Yes! 🙂
Eve says
Love this pattern. I saw this question asked but the response said it was on pattern, but I don’t see it. What should the length be after you complete the first part before seaming the rectangle. Thank you!
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Eve,
I think I understand what you’re asking, but correct me if I’m wrong. The length will be the same as the height of your finished rectangle, since it’s basically just the same rectangle but seamed at the corners. (This sizes are listed in the pattern.)
Cheers,
Jess
LaNese Simmons says
I purchased a pattern from another designer for a sweater that was a cocoon style sweater, I got stuck on doing the collar, they did not give instructions on how to add the collar. I put that pattern down after unsuccessfully adding the collar. So I went back to the site and purchased your patter for a pair of slippers (have not done it yet but will), noticed the your web sited listed on your pattern decided to visit and now I am so glad I did your video on your “THE DWELL CHUNKY CROCHET SWEATER” showed me how to add a collar to the pattern that I was working on so I could complete that one and now I have purchased the pattern for your sweater making it now. I love love your instructions and I love the videos that go along with them you are a great teacher and I will be buying more and more of your patterns your videos give me the courage to try things that I thought were out of my comforts zone. Thank you very much
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Aw, LaNese–thank you!! I’m so happy to hear that! I’m glad you found your way here! 🙂
Jess
Vyann says
Hi! I think your sweater is absolutely lovely. I’d like to make it for my daughter, but she says she prefers a longer sweater. Is there any way to keep this style, but make it a bit longer at the bottom? Not sure if this makes any sense lol! She wants something that adequately covers her rear end 🙂
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Yes! You could add more rows to the bottom of the sweater before working the collar. Similarly, you could just make a taller rectangle and then add the collar. 🙂
Rhonda Coleman says
Hello, I just finished the sweater and I love it, the only thing that I don’t like is the bottom in the back. Not sure if I did something wrong, but it looks square in the back, not straight like your models. Not sure if I’m explaining it right, sorry. Maybe I’ll try to send a pic.
Marwa Amin says
Thanks for this easy pattern. . I tried it but it seems that sleeves are wider than the arm hole ?
How can i fix it? Thanks again
Belinda Stainforth says
Hi there,
Please could you help me…?. I have never crocheted and would love to make this sweater.
I have no idea how many SC I need for a L sweater and how many blocks I would need. I have tried to measure it according to your measurements but am totally lost.
Feel a little silly ?
Lindy Smith says
Hi Jess, I am going to attempt to make this very nice sweater. I am a not an expert in crocheting. Would I be able to crochet the rectangle in a different stitch? I would be using the small/medium size.
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Lindy,
Yes! You def could. Whatever stitch you use, just create a rectangle that’s the same size of as the measurements I list at the end of the rectangle section of the pattern. I’d love to see what stitch you use! 🙂
Jess
Danielle says
Hello love this look! just purchased the pattern but having difficulty. I’m doing the 2xl 3xl version.. I’ve chained 122 but with skipping 6 stiches for the first DC and then skipping 1 ch after that I only have 60 DC not 119 DC as mentioned in the pattern.. Should my foundation chain be 238 not 122? To give me the 119 Doc’s?
Also do you know how much yards of yarn should be used for the 2xl 3xl version?
Thanks so much totally excited to make this one!!
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Danielle,
I think the confusion may lie in that the stitch count at the end of the row is counting all the stitches (including ch spaces, etc). So it sounds like you’re probably right about on the money having 60 dc…? (Assuming there are ch 1 sps between them.)
Jess
Rebecca Nelson says
I LOVE this pattern! It works up fast and the finished product its warm and comfy! I used doubled up Red Heart worsted weight yarn. Now every woman in the family wants me to make them one! Thank you! Now I gave mist of my Christmas present list complete.
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Yay! What wonderful feedback to hear. You’re quite a generous Christmas elf. 😉
Jadira Rodriguez says
I’m currently working on this beautiful sweater and I’ve frogged twice because my edges are not straight. I’m not a beginner and my stitch count is the same. It looks like a trapezoid. I’ve watched your videos several times and I believe on the single stitch row does the first sc count as the first or do I place one in the first sp.??your advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you!!
Jess @ Make and Do Crew says
Hey Jadira,
I’m sorry you’re having trouble! Are you referring to the the row of single crochet? In that row, you’ll ch 1 and then begin single crocheting in the very first double crochet and each dc after that (incl the turning ch).
If you’re talking about the row where you’re creating Xs into the ch 1 spaces though, you’ll ch 1 and then work the first “leg” of the X into the first ch 1 sp. If you’re a visual learner, the bonus stitch chart that’s I made for the PDF might be helpful to check out.
Let me know if any of that doesn’t make sense!
Jess