Minimal counting and two short seams come together in a very easy long crochet cardigan that's perfect for layering. Get the full free pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here.
This free crochet long cardigan pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.
By using treble crochet and floppy worsted weight yarn, you’ll work through this versatile cardigan quickly and be sashaying with style in no time! This is one of the comfiest crochet pieces I've ever worn and I'm so excited to share all the details with you. Keep reading for more about the yarn and inspiration and a video preview or scroll down for the free pattern.
A Crochet Long Cardigan That Was Made For the American Southwest
For the last three years, my family has taken a mountain biking trip to Moab, Utah. This year as we were planning the AirBnB rental, who would cook what each night and what rides we'd attempt, my mom and I were also busy scheming a crocheted long cardigan that would be perfect to photograph against the backdrop of the red rocks of Moab.
And holy smokes--isn't Utah beautiful!? I just adore this landscape. Paired with the optional exaggerated fringe and fantastic drape of this sweater, everything about the Moab desert complimented the boho crochet cardigan vibe we were going for.
Wear This Long Crochet Cardigan Year Round
Sometimes you just need a statement piece that makes an otherwise average outfit look really intentional. When designing this pattern, we wanted to create a crochet cardigan that felt summery enough to toss on over a sundress, but also versatile enough to wear with leggings and a long sleeve shirt in the fall.
How to Customize Your Boho Cardigan
It's really easy to customize this cardigan because the construction is super simple to begin with. You'll work the fronts and back in one large seamless piece and then add the sleeves by picking up stitches around the armholes, again eliminating the need for seaming.
To make your long crochet cardigan extra long, similar to a crochet duster, simply work extra rows in the body section. To make it shorter just eliminate some of the rows in the body before you divide for the armholes.
As you can see, you can leave the fringe off for a less free-spirited look. Adding the fringe weighs the bottom of the cardi down a bit, so you might decide to add a few extra rows before dividing for the armholes if you're planning to skip the fringe.
Yarn Options for Your Long Crochet Cardigan
As my mom and I expected, Lion Brand's ZZ Twist proved to be the perfect yarn to use to achieve the flowey, slinky and lightweight effect we were going for with this crocheted long cardigan. (We also used it in the Free Range Kimono pattern last summer!)
Because ZZ Twist is a worsted weight yarn though, it's quite simple to find substitutes. Searching on YarnSub.com is a great place to start. You'll want a category 4 weight yarn that is flexible and drapey. Lion Brand Jeans or Jeans Colors and Mandala Ombre are soft, flexible options I think would work really well.
Get a Preview of the Solstice Sweater In Action
Sometimes it's hard to tell in a photo what a crochet pattern really looks like and get a feel for what the fabric will be like when you wear it. So for this long crochet cardigan pattern, I put together a little preview video of the sweater in action.
In a quick 30 seconds, I think you'll really get a sense of how comfy, flowy and flattering this cardigan is. (And be sure to watch to the final scene where you can see my sister twirl her little bohemian heart out! I was laughing out loud editing this part of the video.)
More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns
Crochet sweater patterns don't need to be difficult. In fact, most of ours are made with very simple shapes. Dive into the wonderful world of crochet garments with cardigans, pullovers, ponchos, shrugs and more!
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The Solstice Sweater
Free Long Crochet Cardigan Pattern
Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here.
Save this pattern to Ravelry here.
Pin it for later here.
Exaggerated fringe, open stitch work and flatteringly drapey yarn come together to make a very easy carefree cardigan that’s perfect for laying year round.
With very little increasing or decreasing and only two short crochet seams in the entire sweater, this pattern is approachable for confident beginners. The main sweater fronts and backs are worked in one piece and sleeve stitches are picked up around armhole (no seams!) By using treble crochet and floppy worsted-weight yarn, you’ll work through this cardigan quickly and be sashaying in no time.
Purchase a handy kit with all the yarn + a printed copy of the pattern here.
• Lion Brand ZZ Twist (Weight: 4/medium - 246 yds, 3.5 oz)
- Ecru (763-098) – 7 (8, 10, 11, 12) skeins [ (approx. 670 (795, 900, 1030, 1165) g)]
(See notes in blog post above for substitute yarn options.)
• Tapestry needle
• Size J hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins
• Piece of stiff cardboard approximately 9” tall
|Size||Fits Bust||Length (without fringe)|
Sample pictured is a M/L on a 5’8” model with a 38” bust.
6.5 rows worked in pattern (3.5 rows of hdc + 3 rows of tr “X”s) = 4”
15 hdc = 4”
Note: When working gauge swatch, keep in mind that gauge listed above includes some natural stretch from the weight of the sweater. If your swatch is slightly shorter than gauge, it will likely stretch to the right size in the completed cardigan particularly if you add fringe.
Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
ch – chain
dec – decrease
fhdc – foundation half double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – half double crochet two together (see below)
pm – place marker
rep – repeat
RS – right side
rsc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
tr – treble crochet
WS – wrong side
yo – yarn over
hdc2tog: Yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw hook through all 4 loops.
Overall Pattern + Sizing Notes:
• Ch 2 at beginning of row counts as 1 hdc throughout.
• Ch 4 at beginning of row counts as 1 tr throughout.
Main Sweater Body
• Fronts and back are worked at one time from the bottom up until you divide for armholes.
• To make a longer or shorter sweater, eliminate or work additional rows of main sweater body before dividing for front.
Preferred Foundation Row 1 (RS): Fhdc 112 (134, 158, 180, 202).
Alternative Foundation Row: Ch 113 (135, 159, 181, 203).
Alternative Foundation Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch to end of row; turn. [112 (134, 158, 180, 202) hdc]
Row 2 (WS): Ch 4, sk first hdc, *sk next hdc, tr in next hdc, working behind last tr made, tr in skipped hdc (X made), rep from * until turning ch remains, tr in turning ch; turn. [55, (66, 78, 89, 100) Xs; 2 tr]
Row 3 (RS): Ch 2, sk first hdc, hdc in each st to end of row; turn. [112 (134, 158, 180, 202) hdc]
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until piece measures 23” (approximately 17 times), or to desired length. End with a Row 3. Do not fasten off.
Dividing For Front
Place markers between stitches so that the following sections have the appropriate number of stitches listed:
Left Front: 24 (32, 38, 43, 48) sts, pm
Back: 64 (70, 82, 94, 106) sts, pm
Right Front: 24 (32, 38, 43, 48) sts
Keeping in pattern as established, work each section between markers separately, starting with left front.
Working only between edge and next marker indicating end of Left Front, repeat Rows 2 and 3 from previous section 8 (9, 9, 10, 11) times. Fasten off leaving a 20” tail.
With WS facing, attach yarn in first st of Back section on right side (left-handed crocheters: left side). Working only between markers indicating Back, repeat Rows 2 and 3 from previous section 8 (9, 9, 10, 11) times. Fasten off leaving a 20” tail.
With WS facing, attach yarn in first st of Right Front section on right side (left-handed crocheters: left side). Working only between marker indicating end of Right Front and edge, repeat Rows 2 and 3 from previous section 8 (9, 9, 10, 11) times. Fasten off leaving a 20” tail.
With right sides facing each other, use stitch markers to pin Right Front to Back and Left Front to Back at shoulders. Use tails left from fastening off to slip stitch seams together.
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• Sleeves are picked up along armhole opening and worked in the round.
• Sleeves are worked in unturned rounds with the RS always facing.
• Since there is extra length from the Main Body section, sleeves are different lengths for all sizes. To make sleeves longer once Last Round is complete, work additional rounds in the pattern without decreasing.
With RS facing, attach yarn at underarm of either armhole opening.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 53 (61, 63, 67, 75) hdc evenly around armhole opening, sl st to ch-2 from beginning of round to join. [54 (62, 64, 68, 76) hdc]
Round 2 (RS): Ch 4, sk first hdc, *sk next hdc, tr in next hdc, working behind last tr made, tr in skipped hdc (X made), rep from * until turning ch remains, tr in turning ch, sl st to ch-4 from beginning of round to join. [26 (30, 31, 33, 37) Xs, 2 tr]
Round 3: Ch 2, sk first hdc, hdc in each st to end of round, sl st to ch-2 from beginning of round to join. [54 (62, 64, 68, 76) hdc]
Round 4: Rep Round 2. [26 (30, 31, 33, 37) Xs, 2 tr]
Round 5 (dec): Ch 2, sk first hdc, hdc2tog, hdc in each st until 3 sts remain, hdc2tog, hdc in last st, sl st to ch-2 from beginning of round to join. [52 (60, 62, 66, 74) hdc]
Round 6: Rep Round 2. [25 (29, 30, 32, 36) Xs, 2 tr]
Round 7: Rep Round 3. [52 (60, 62, 66, 74) hdc]
Round 8: Rep Round 2. [25 (29, 30, 32, 36) Xs, 2 tr]
Round 9 (dec): Rep Round 5. [50 (58, 60, 64, 72) hdc]
SIZES S/M (M/L, L/1X) ONLY:
Rounds 10-25: Rep Rounds 6-9 four (four, three) more times, then Rnds 8-9 zero (zero, two) more times. Sleeve should have 42 (50, 48) hdc at end of Round 25. Move on to Round 26.
SIZES 1X/2X ( 2X/3X) ONLY:
Rounds 10-25: Rep Rounds 8-9 eight times. Sleeve should have 48 (56) hdc at end of Round 25.
Round 26: Rep Round 2. [22 (26) Xs, 2 tr]
Move on to Last Round.
SIZES S/M (M/L) ONLY:
Round 26: Rep Round 2. [20 (24, 23) Xs, 2 tr]
Round 27 (dec): Rep Round 5. [40 (48) hdc]
Rounds 28-29: Rep Rounds 26-27 once more. Sleeve should have 38 (46) hdc at end of Round 29.
Round 30: Rep Round 2. [18 (22) Xs, 2 tr]
Last Round: Ch 2, sk first st [hdc2tog, hdc in each of next 35 (7, 7, 21, 4) sts] 1 (5, 5, 2, 9) time(s), 0 (0, 2, 1, 1) hdc, sl st to ch-2 from beginning of round to join. [37 (41, 43, 46, 47) hdc]
Sleeve Edging (RS): Ch 1, rsc in each hdc to end of round, sl st to ch from beginning of round to join. [37 (41, 43, 46, 47) rsc]
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Preferred Foundation Row 1 (RS): Fhdc 30.
Alternative Foundation Row: Ch 31.
Alternative Foundation Row 1 (RS): Hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each ch to end of row; turn. (30 hdc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 4, sk first hdc, *sk next hdc, tr in next hdc, working behind last tr made, tr in skipped hdc (X made), rep from * until turning ch remains, tr in turning ch; turn. (14 Xs, 2 tr)
Row 3 (RS): Ch 2, sk first hdc, hdc in each st to end of row; turn. (30 hdc)
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 seven more times. End with a Row 3.
Row 18 (WS): Ch 1, sc in each hdc; turn. (30 sc)
Pocket Edging (RS): Ch 1, rsc in each sc. Fasten off leaving a 30” tail.
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Edging on Main Sweater Body:
With WS facing, attach yarn at bottom of right front (this is the left side when wearing sweater). Left-handed crocheters, attach yarn at bottom of left front.
Row 1 (WS): Ch 1, sc evenly along edge of first front, along back of neck and down edge of second front; turn.
Row 2: (RS): Ch 1, rsc in each sc along edges of fronts and neck. Fasten off.
Using stitch markers, pin WS of pocket to RS of sweater as pictured. Thread leftover yarn tail on tapestry needle and whip stitch pocket in place. Repeat for second pocket.
Fringe pieces need to measure approx. 18” long before adding them to cardigan. To quickly cut fringe pieces of all the same length, wrap yarn around a piece of cardboard or a thin book that is approximately 9” tall. Cut at one end.
With RS facing, begin at one corner of cardigan bottom. Insert hook from the front of cardigan toward back and grab three strands of fringe. Pull fringe partially up to front of cardigan. Insert fingers through resulting loop of fringe and pull fringe tails through loop.
Repeat along cardigan bottom so fringe sections are quite close together. Trim as desired. (Fringe pictured in sample is approx. 8.5” long.)
Toss on your newly finished sweater, pop a flower behind your ear and head out to frolic in your fringe!
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