Chunky Crochet Cocoon Cardigan - Free Pattern

Creatively constructed from a simple rectangle, this flattering chunky crochet cocoon cardigan comes together easily with zero shaping, increasing or decreasing. Get the free pattern and video tutorial below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with stitch chart here. 

This free chunky crochet cocoon sweater pattern is part of a collaboration with Lion Brand Yarns. This post contains affiliate links.

Cozy Crochet Blanket Sweater

This year, I've challenged myself to move out of my comfort zone of crochet shoes, afghans and scarves to design more sweaters and other garments.

There's something particularly satisfying about making my own clothes and I often wear the sweater I've just created as I'm writing up the pattern, sort of like it's my trophy at the end of a hard-fought battle.

The Construction of This Cocoon Cardigan

After experimenting with a few different variations of a basic folded-rectangle shrug, I knew I wanted to create a chunky crochet sweater that used the same simple-to-master concepts (ie. no increasing or decreasing!) that would be worthy of wearing all fall and winter long. I think the Dwell Sweater is it!

The Impressive (Yet Easy!) Stitch

This speedy, chunky crochet sweater pattern uses the Zeros and Crosses stitch, which I've had my eye on for a while now. It's worked a little differently than other stitches because you cross two double crochet stitches to make and "X," but I felt really proud of mastering a new little crochet technique. I cover how to work this stitch in detail in the Dwell Sweater video tutorial.

My Favorite Chunky Yarn

Wanna know how to crochet a sweater fast and love the finished result? Grab any color of Lion Brand Hue + Me yarn and get to work! This category 5 yarn is just chunky enough to ensure RAPID sweater progress, but the open stitch work keeps your sweater from being too hot or bulky. And Hue + Me is available in the most gorgeous, contemporary colors. Two of Wands and Lion Brand collaborated on this yarn and it's one of my all time favorites!

Related: 27+ Free Crochet Beanie Patterns

Pin it! Click to pin this pattern for later ⇨

How to Crochet a Cocoon Sweater Video Tutorial

If you've had a bit of experience reading patterns and want to challenge yourself to make your first garment, this chunky crochet sweater is a great one to try. Even better, I've put together a video tutorial that walks you through how to crochet this cocoon cardigan pattern start to finish.

More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns

Crochet sweater patterns don't need to be difficult. In fact, most of ours are made with very simple shapes. Dive into the wonderful world of crochet garments with cardigans, pullovers, ponchos, shrugs and more!

See more free crochet sweater patterns →

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The Dwell Chunky Sweater

• Free Crochet Cocoon Cardigan Pattern •

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with stitch chart here on LoveCrafts or here on Etsy.

Add this pattern to your Ravelry favorites here.

Pin it for later here.

Find the step-by-step video tutorial here. 

Explanation: If you love the concepts of slow fashion, slow weekends at home and fast crochet projects, this chunky cardigan is just the project for you! Creatively constructed from a simple rectangle, this flattering sweater comes together easily with zero shaping, increasing or decreasing. Once you have the basic repeat memorized, you’ll whiz through this pattern and have fun watching your new sweater take form right before your eyes.

Skills needed include double crochet and post stitches, although if you haven’t tried post stitches before, this is a “safe” project to give them a go as their use within is quite basic.

Supplies:
Purchase an all-in-one kit from Lion Brand here.
• Lion Brand Wool-Ease Tonal (Weight: 5/ bulky - 124 yds, 4 oz)
-Smoke (149) - 7 (9, 10) skeins
• Tapestry needle
• Size N (10 mm) crochet hook
• Stitch markers or safety pins

Sizes:
The oversized nature of this sweater will accommodate many body types. The sample pictured is a S/M on a model with a 36” bust.

Bust Size //  Length of Sweater from collar to bottom edge
S/M: 34-38.5” // 30.5”

L/XL: 39-44.5” // 33”

2XL/3XL: 45-50” // 35.5”

Gauge:
10 stitches = 5”
2 repeats in the stitch pattern (6 total rows) = 5”

Abbreviations and Glossary (US Terms):
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
tch – turning chain
st – stitch
sp – space
sk - skip
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
rep – repeat
ch1sp – the space created by one chain
fpdc – front post double crochet: work 1 dc around stem of st 2 rounds below, inserting hook around stem from right to left to draw up loops. (Left to right for left-handed crocheters)

Overall Pattern Notes:
• Pattern is written in size S/M with L/XL and 2XL/3XL written in parenthesis. S/M (L/XL, 2XL/3XL). Sample shown is a size S/M. Because of the oversized style of the sweater, choosing a size is less about exact chest size and more about how loose you want your sweater to fit.

• A detailed video tutorial on how to crochet the Dwell Sweater can be found here. (Be sure to have any ad-blockers disabled in order to view the video player.)

!! Gauge Check !!

Please don’t skip this step or you will risk your sweater not fitting as expected. Once gauge is correctly met, you may repurpose gauge swatch as one of your pockets. Win win!

Foundation Row: Ch 18.

Row 1 (RS): 1 sc into second ch, 1 sc into next and each ch to end; turn. (17)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and a ch1sp), sk 2 sts, 1 dc into next st, *1 ch, sk 1 st, 1 dc into next st; rep from * ending last rep in last sc; turn.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, sk next ch1sp work 2 crossed stitches as follows: 1 dc forward into next ch1sp, 1 dc back into just skipped ch1sp going behind forward dc so as not to catch it, *1 dc forward into next unoccupied ch1sp, 1 dc into back into previous ch1sp; rep from * to end when last forward dc occupies first tch, 1 dc into second tch; turn.

Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working last sc into top of tch; turn.

Rep Rows 2-4 once more.

Row 5 (WS): Rep Row 2.

Row 6 (RS-final pocket row): Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working sc into top of tch; do not turn; continue around corner working 2 additional sc in same tch, continue evenly spacing sc along top edge of pocket, stop when corner is reached. (Chain tail should be at the same corner.)

Fasten off, leaving a 24” tail.

Pocket swatch should measure 8” wide x 7” tall. (Note: Measure width across row and height from foundation row to last row even though pocket will be rotated before attaching to sweater.)

• If swatch is too narrow horizontally, increase your hook size and re-swatch.
  
• If swatch is too wide horizontally, decrease your hook size and re-swatch.

• If swatch is measuring too small vertically, make a deliberate effort to pull loops up a bit higher before completing each stitch.
  
• If swatch is measuring too large vertically, make an effort to work the loops of each stitch a little tighter.
  
• This video is incredibly helpful if you’re having trouble achieving the correct vertical gauge.

Body of Sweater

Notes:
• If you're a visual learner, consider purchasing the printable PDF of this pattern which contains a stitch chart. 

• The end of Row 4 might seem off to you, but know that the tch from the previous row is considered a stitch in this case, so the last dc of the row will be worked into that tch.

• To adjust the width of the sweater, chain a multiple of 2 sts + 4.

• Finished dimensions of rectangle should be approx.: 27 (30, 33)” tall by 44 (49.5, 54)” wide

Foundation Row: Ch 98 (110, 122).

Row 1: 1 dc in the sixth ch from the hook (counts as 1 dc and 1 ch1sp), *ch 1, sk 1 ch, 1 dc in next ch; rep from * to end; turn. 95 (107, 119)

Row 2: Ch 3, sk next ch1sp work 2 crossed stitches as follows: 1 dc forward into next ch1sp, 1 dc back into just skipped ch1sp going behind forward dc so as not to catch it, *1 dc forward into next unoccupied ch1sp, 1 dc into back into previous ch1sp; rep from * to end when last forward dc occupies first tch, 1 dc into second tch; turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working last sc into top of tch; turn.

Row 4: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and a ch1sp), sk 2 sts, 1 dc into next st, *1 ch, sk 1 st, 1 dc into next st; rep from * ending last rep in tch; turn. (See note above.)

Repeat Rows 2-4 ten (eleven, twelve) more times. At this point, you should have 12 (13, 14) rows of little ch1sp “windows” (Rows 1 and 4).

Seaming Rectangle

Notes:
• There is no right side (RS) or wrong side of this fabric, so just choose the one you like best to face out.

Fold rectangle in half with RS facing in so that the foundation row and the final row of the rectangle are touching. (Stripes should be running horizontally as in photo below.) Pin in place along side seams using stitch markers or safety pins. Take care to line up stripes.

Place a stitch marker 5 (5, 6) inches from the folded side on either side of the rectangle. Using a tapestry needle and a doubled over strand of MC yarn, begin seaming the rectangle, working from the open side to the folded side. Stop at the stitch marker. Repeat for second seam.

Turn your new shrug-lette right side out and lay it flat as pictured in photo below. Place a stitch marker in the double crochet stitch that falls at the intersection of the bottom of the shrug and the perpendicular collar edge. Repeat on second side.

More Free Crochet Sweater Patterns From Make & Do Crew:

Adding Collar

Notes:

• Collar is worked along the edge of the shrug back and forth in rows starting at the bottom-most front edge of the sweater, working around the back of the neck and returning to the bottom-most front edge on the other side. (See photo below.)

• The marked double crochet stitches will become where you work the first and last stitches of Row 1. All subsequent rows will be worked between these stitch markers.

Right-Handed Crocheters: Attach yarn in left stitch marker, as seen when looking at the sweater laying flat.

Left-Handed Crocheters: Attach yarn in right stitch marker, as seen when looking at the sweater laying flat.

Row 1: Ch 3, sk next ch1sp work 2 crossed stitches as follows: 1 dc forward into next ch1sp, 1 dc back into just skipped ch1sp going behind forward dc so as not to catch it, *1 dc forward into next unoccupied ch1sp, 1 dc into back into previous ch1sp; rep from * to end when last forward dc occupies the ch1sp before the marked stitch, 1 dc into marked dc; turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working last sc into top of tch; turn.

Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and a ch1sp), sk 2 sts, 1 dc into next st, *1 ch, sk 1 st, 1 dc into next st; rep from * ending last rep in tch; turn.

Repeat Rows 1-3 two more times.

Row 4: Repeat Row 1.

Round 5: Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working 2 sc into  top of tch; do not turn; continue around bottom edge of sweater evenly spacing sc sts all the way to bottom corner where round began; sl st to first sc of round to join.

Fasten off.

Adding Sleeves

Notes:

• Sleeve ribbing is achieved using post stitches. Please reference glossary of the pattern, the video tutorial or photo below for additional help.

• The sleeves are worked in the round. Do not turn work at the end of each round.

Attach yarn in armhole at seam created from sewing the rectangle together. Be sure to work with the RS (outside) of the sweater facing you at all times.

Round 1: Ch 1, work 22 (22, 26) sc sts around armhole edge, sl st to first sc of round to join.

Round 2: Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc, sl st to first sc of round to join.

Round 3: Ch 1, *1 sc in next sc, 1 fpdc around next sc two rows below; rep from * to end of round, sl st to first sc of round to join.

Round 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in each sc, sl st to first sc of round to join.

Round 5: Ch 1, *1 sc in next sc, 1 fpdc around stem of next fpdc two rows below; rep from * to end of round, sl st to first sc of round to join.

Repeat Rounds 4 and 5 seven times. Add additional repeats if longer sleeves are desired. Fasten off.

Adding Pockets

Make 2. (Remember, you can use your gauge swatch as a pocket if you'd like.)

Foundation Row: Ch 18.

Row 1 (RS): 1 sc into second ch, 1 sc into next and each ch to end; turn. (17)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and a ch1sp), sk 2 sts, 1 dc into next st, *1 ch, sk 1 st, 1 dc into next st; rep from * ending last rep in last sc; turn.

Row 3 (RS): Ch 3, sk next ch1sp work 2 crossed stitches as follows: 1 dc forward into next ch1sp, 1 dc back into just skipped ch1sp going behind forward dc so as not to catch it, *1 dc forward into next unoccupied ch1sp, 1 dc into back into previous ch1sp; rep from * to end when last forward dc occupies first tch, 1 dc into second tch; turn.

Row 4 (WS): Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working last sc into top of tch; turn.

Rep Rows 2-4 once more.

Row 5 (WS): Rep Row 2.

Row 6 (RS): Ch 1, 1 sc into first st, 1 sc into next and each st to end, working sc into top of tch; do not turn; continue around corner working 2 additional sc in same tch, continue evenly spacing sc along top edge of pocket, stop when corner is reached (chain tail should be at the same corner).

Fasten off, leaving a 24” tail.

Pin pockets to front of sweater using stitch markers or safety pins. See photo above for exact placement or to customize to your liking. Take care to line up rows on pockets and sweater so that the pockets visually recede into the sweater.

Use leftover tail and a tapestry needle to sew pockets onto sweater using a whip stitch.

Weave in any remaining ends.

Wrap yourself in your new chunky Dwell Sweater, brew a cup of tea and embrace your inner home-dwelling homebody!

We love to see your finished projects! Use #MakeAndDoCrew and tag us on Instagram (@MakeAndDoCrew) to show off your stitches and have a chance to be featured.